Suggestions for new Headset

[SyndiShanX]

I would like to get a new headset after the earcups on my Razer Kraken V2s got ruined.
I want a pair close to the Kraken V2s if possible, so some features I want are:

• Wired - 3.5mm Jack
• Preferably not Leather/Leather Alternatives for the Ear Cups as they tend to Crack/Peel
• Detachable/Retractable Mic
• Metal Frame with Good Build Quality
• Somewhere around $100

[GuiltySpark_]

The HyperX Cloud II/Alpha/III's fit most of that, but i'm not sure if they come with an alternative cloth ear cup. The Logitech G Pro X 2nd Gen's tick all the boxes. 

[Agall]

3 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

The HyperX Cloud II/Alpha/III's fit most of that, but i'm not sure if they come with an alternative cloth ear cup. The Logitech G Pro X 2nd Gen's tick all the boxes. 

I've got both a wired and wireless pair of hyperX clouds. Wired is gen 3, wireless is gen 2. Both great headsets.

 

HyperX cloud III's come with a USB DAC as well if you wanted to use it with a phone.

[podkall]

11 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

The HyperX Cloud

7 minutes ago, Agall said:

HyperX cloud

It's weird how HyperX Cloud headphones are in similar budget bracket as some of the Razer and Logitech headphones while not having the crack and peel off problem + similarly good sound

[saintlouisbagels]

16 minutes ago, podkall said:

It's weird how HyperX Cloud headphones are in similar budget bracket as some of the Razer and Logitech headphones while not having the crack and peel off problem + similarly good sound

It's because Logitech and Razer are household names and they can overcharge you on cheaply-made products.

[podkall]

12 minutes ago, saintlouisbagels said:

It's because Logitech and Razer are household names and they can overcharge you on cheaply-made products.

I can honestly understand that, I'd buy Logitech myself if I ever felt like upgrading my current headphones, but the material drool is a big downside for me, regardless how feature packed, quality the other material is and how crisp the sound is, could have been the cheapest possible couching that wouldn't wear down easily if something like that's available..

[191x7]

55 minutes ago, SyndiShanX said:

I would like to get a new headset after the earcups on my Razer Kraken V2s got ruined.
I want a pair close to the Kraken V2s if possible, so some features I want are:

• Wired - 3.5mm Jack
• Preferably not Leather/Leather Alternatives for the Ear Cups as they tend to Crack/Peel
• Detachable/Retractable Mic
• Metal Frame with Good Build Quality
• Somewhere around $100

Fiio JT1. Best gaming headphones you can get for under $100 period.

[4b33r]

SHP 9500.

[Agall]

53 minutes ago, podkall said:

It's weird how HyperX Cloud headphones are in similar budget bracket as some of the Razer and Logitech headphones while not having the crack and peel off problem + similarly good sound

I ended up choosing them because they're very simple headsets. All the extra nonsense and software to run them is super cringe and dumb and I hate it.

 

All a headset needs to do is make vibrations and listen to vibrations and it doesn't need RGB to do that.

[SyndiShanX]

2 hours ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

The HyperX Cloud II/Alpha/III's fit most of that, but i'm not sure if they come with an alternative cloth ear cup. The Logitech G Pro X 2nd Gen's tick all the boxes. 

The Logitech G Pro X's seem like the best option for me at the moment, although I would have to get Gen 1, as Gen 2 is $250 from what I can find.

Let me know if there are any Issues/Better Options than these, and thank you all for the Suggestions

I should have probably added a Couple things to the Original Post, but I'll add them here:

• Closed Back is Preferred
• These are for Gaming, Basic Music (Not Seeking Studio Quality/High Fidelity), and watching Videos
• Absolutely no Wireless Features or Annoying Extra Software

[GuiltySpark_]

5 minutes ago, SyndiShanX said:

although I would have to get Gen 1, as Gen 2 is $250 from what I can find.

For the record, https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Headset-Blue-Technology/dp/B07PDFBJZD This is Gen 2. The $250 option you linked is the wireless version.

 

I actually owned those and now just use them at work for general audio/Teams calls. It comes with USB DAC that can be used directly with Windows or with their terrible GHUB software. Or just pull off the DAC and plug it into your existing 3.5mm audio ports. The option cloth ear cups that come in the box are quite nice.

 

I've not owned the HyperX line but handling them they feel very similarly built. 

[Motifator]

HD 25 Light, or full head band aka non-light, Plus or no plus vanilla bare model HD 25... which slaps on the skull better. All three are about as epic as a loud headphone that is easy on the ears gets.

As the old saying goes... in a live DJ situation, often times for the fan of the HD 25, the only thing that replaces a HD 25... is another HD 25. It's very good at high volume situations and situationally, ranging from music to playing instruments... it's just... a very good headphone.

Don't even talk about gaming headsets or I no gib you headphone advice. xD

[saintlouisbagels]

I'm gonna go for the unusual recommendation of an IEM and microphone combo because I don't like over-ear headphones + IEMs are a much better sound quality value + I love the upgraded sound quality of using a dynamic microphone.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/7hz-x-crinacle-zero-2-iem-review.50534/

 

https://www.amazon.com/Linsoul-7Hz-Crinacle-Zero-Earphones/dp/B0CMZVZPCF

https://www.amazon.com/FIFINE-Microphone-Podcasting-Voice-Over-AmpliGame-AM8T/dp/B0C74GYW3J

 

or here's a microphone replacement cable

https://www.amazon.com/Detachable-Silver-Plated-Microphone-Audiophile-Replacement/dp/B09TLBGQLB/

[podkall]

17 hours ago, Agall said:

I ended up choosing them because they're very simple headsets. All the extra nonsense and software to run them is super cringe and dumb and I hate it.

 

All a headset needs to do is make vibrations and listen to vibrations and it doesn't need RGB to do that.

that is true, though Logitech did work without dedicated software, the software basically helped with mic control, volume and dolby surround could be enabled through it,

 

but my friend had some HyperX Cloud headphones, not sure which version, it was quite a few years ago too, but I remember trying them and both material and sound including the padding was more than you could ask for at their budget range

[Agall]

4 minutes ago, podkall said:

that is true, though Logitech did work without dedicated software, the software basically helped with mic control, volume and dolby surround could be enabled through it,

 

but my friend had some HyperX Cloud headphones, not sure which version, it was quite a few years ago too, but I remember trying them and both material and sound including the padding was more than you could ask for at their budget range

I even put duct tape over the volume wheel on the side of it, so there's nothing to bump on the headset itself.

 

I eventually had to replace my Plantronic Rig HD 700's or w/e they're called and went down the rabbit hole of buying a new headset since that model really didn't exist anymore. I bought Logitech which had stupid macro buttons on the side, which I would bump often, and I couldn't simply disable them. The battery life was also mediocre and wouldn't get me through a whole gaming session.

 

On the other hand, the HyperX Cloud II Wireless gets well past 1 day (although I almost anyways charge it when its not in use) doesn't have any stupid software or buttons to mess with, and some duct tape fixed the slight inconvenience I would run into by accidentally bumping the volume wheel. They've also help up and don't seem to wear out.

I bought the wired version 3 for my Steam Deck when I was using that exclusively for ~3.5 weeks between closing dates of my houses. Its not nearly as loud, but that might've been an issue with the Steam Deck's 3.5mm. I also have significant permanent hearing loss, so my definition of loud might not be accurate to a normal person's.

[podkall]

6 minutes ago, Agall said:

I bought the wired version 3 for my Steam Deck when I was using that exclusively for ~3.5 weeks between closing dates of my houses. Its not nearly as loud, but that might've been an issue with the Steam Deck's 3.5mm. I also have significant permanent hearing loss, so my definition of loud might not be accurate to a normal person's.

could be the wire/wireless diff, since there's basically no impedance rating on bluetooth

[Agall]

1 hour ago, podkall said:

could be the wire/wireless diff, since there's basically no impedance rating on bluetooth

Felt like just not enough watts, but I havent tried them on any other device nor any other headphones in my Steam Deck.

[podkall]

2 hours ago, Agall said:

Felt like just not enough watts, but I havent tried them on any other device nor any other headphones in my Steam Deck.

I see, well it's true that it's only ~100 sensitivity and 64 Ohms while other similar price range and use headphones have 32 ohms and still ~100 sensititivty

[Agall]

9 minutes ago, podkall said:

I see, well it's true that it's only ~100 sensitivity and 64 Ohms while other similar price range and use headphones have 32 ohms and still ~100 sensititivty

Dongle based wireless headset OP. Its loud enough for me to enjoy music through them which is a high bar to meet.

[Cocococo]

1 hour ago, podkall said:

I see, well it's true that it's only ~100 sensitivity and 64 Ohms while other similar price range and use headphones have 32 ohms and still ~100 sensititivty

Ohms generally don't matter in headphones, there's 300 ohm headphones that are easier to power than 32 ohm headphones, and the same applies vice-versa. Sensitivity is the only number you really need to worry about for 99% of headphones out there, 100db/mw and above sensitivity doesn't need external amplifiers unless you're playing music of an early 200's e-waste MP3 player, 95db and below absolutely needs an amp (this is where you generally start seeing Planar magnetic headphones) 96db-100db is more of a grey area, you don't need an amp by any means, but a weak source is gonna struggle powering headphones in this range

[podkall]

2 minutes ago, Cocococo said:

Ohms generally don't matter in headphones, there's 300 ohm headphones that are easier to power than 32 ohm headphones, and the same applies vice-versa. Sensitivity is the only number you really need to worry about for 99% of headphones out there, 100db/mw and above sensitivity doesn't need external amplifiers unless you're playing music of an early 200's e-waste MP3 player, 95db and below absolutely needs an amp (this is where you generally start seeing Planar magnetic headphones) 96db-100db is more of a grey area, you don't need an amp by any means, but a weak source is gonna struggle powering headphones in this range

yeah but if 2 headphones have same sensitivity but one of them have more impedance doesn't that mean the higher imp headphones may sound quieter?

[Cocococo]

9 minutes ago, podkall said:

yeah but if 2 headphones have same sensitivity but one of them have more impedance doesn't that mean the higher imp headphones may sound quieter?

The tuning and isolation/ openness or a headphone makes more of a perceivable impact than different impedance, cover up the impedance numbers on 32, 80 and 250 ohm Beyerdynamic DT770's and most people wouldn't be able to tell the difference, people who use DT770's a lot might identify which pair is the 80's (they have the most bass and treble, difference between 32 and 250 ohm's is less noticeable) but sensitivity to certain frequencies of sound will (again) mask any tiny differences impedance has upon volume. If you were using a high end measurement rig then yes you might spot a tiny difference, but human hearing can never be that sensitive.

[podkall]

1 minute ago, Cocococo said:

but human hearing can never be that sensitive.