Hackentosher

Update 1: Monitor works outstandingly well!
Next up is the C64!

That thing looks pretty sad.. 
 
Welcome back!

I think you could do it, so long as you can work out how to convert your audio into packets and then decode them back to something you can spit out through a DAC, it should be pretty doable. 

Lol me too
I guess OP needs to evaluate their own risk. If I was playing around with this I don't think I'd take a "probably" as good enough to let my guard down or feel safe around it. You're probably right that the sphere can't hold enough charge to sustain a sufficiently energetic pulse to be fatal, but again I wouldn't exactly feel safe around it.

Lol that's just technical speak for making the filament not turn as tight. The shallower the turn the easier it'll be to pull.

So these often help straighten the path the filament has to take to get to the extruder. They also increase the bend radius it has to take. These adjustments together make it easier for the extruder to pull the filament. It may prevent a snag, but unless your filament has to take a crazy path from spool to extruder, it's probably not necessary.

@Hackentosher 👀
Software is very wip. Hardware needs a few changes (mostly aesthetic, outside of the major fix of swapping i2c lines to the way they're supposed to be). But the end is in sight!

Larry is an absolute legend
 
 
 

Is it proprietary? Looks like it just fits in normally as a normal front panel header.

If not on contract or blacklisted, At&t is very easy to unlock. Fallow link
https://www.att.com/deviceunlock/
 

Why does brown leather always look good? Lol 

As others have stated, in typical US outlets, the middle pin is a ground connected to Earth. Generally it's useful bc if something fucks up inside the device, the hot wire will short to ground and route current to ground instead of through something that could start a fire, or your body. The reason why we can't just use the neutral pin is a bit more complicated and has some pre-requisite knowledge associated with it. If you'd like to know more about that, I'd recommend watching this video.

I'd go with a ThinkPad P series or Precision 7000 series. 

for anything that requires "specific" software, i wouldnt want to rely on M1. technically it can emulate x86, but from my experience a lot of the software you'll come into contact with will be touchy at best to start with.
 
the biggest issue will most likely be that all of the software will be windows based, so you're basicly SOL trying to run any of that on apple M1.

Currently have a BMW M235i Gran Coupe 🙂

I've waited six years on this forum to join this thread. I finally bought my first car.
 

I think some people on r/SFFPC have similar setups. Usually they post their thermals, so have a look over there.
 
I think it'll be okay as long as you're not overclocking, but don't expect anything amazing.

I've waited six years on this forum to join this thread. I finally bought my first car.
 

I've waited six years on this forum to join this thread. I finally bought my first car.
 

I've waited six years on this forum to join this thread. I finally bought my first car.
 

"featuring my slightly baked roommate"

That boy jumped in the oven before it finished preheating.
 
Congrats though! Enjoy the freedom.

Any CNC machine has flaws and imperfections. Even $50k HAAS machines fuck up sometimes. Desktop 3D printers in particular are built to a cost, but even the nice ones can be buggy. My lab has a range of machines, including CR10S Pros, Prusa i3mk3s, and an Ultimaker 3, costing about $600, $1000, and $3500 respectively. Now admittedly the Ultimaker has been one of the more reliable machines of the bunch, but it's not without its flaws. Most recently it occasionally can't talk to the hotend. It also will have adhesion issues despite its autoleveling system. These machines are attempting to control so many variables to complete a complicated task that they are bound to have occasional failures no matter how much you spend. 
 
That said, a more expensive machine will probably be more reliable as a general rule, but that doesn't mean it's perfect and doesn't suffer from some of the common problems that less expensive machines do. After some upgrades, I've heard the Ender 3 is pretty damn good and produces very high quality prints especially for the cost. 

Any CNC machine has flaws and imperfections. Even $50k HAAS machines fuck up sometimes. Desktop 3D printers in particular are built to a cost, but even the nice ones can be buggy. My lab has a range of machines, including CR10S Pros, Prusa i3mk3s, and an Ultimaker 3, costing about $600, $1000, and $3500 respectively. Now admittedly the Ultimaker has been one of the more reliable machines of the bunch, but it's not without its flaws. Most recently it occasionally can't talk to the hotend. It also will have adhesion issues despite its autoleveling system. These machines are attempting to control so many variables to complete a complicated task that they are bound to have occasional failures no matter how much you spend. 
 
That said, a more expensive machine will probably be more reliable as a general rule, but that doesn't mean it's perfect and doesn't suffer from some of the common problems that less expensive machines do. After some upgrades, I've heard the Ender 3 is pretty damn good and produces very high quality prints especially for the cost. 

I'm not certain, but my spidy senses tell me that 4gb might even be overkill. As for heatsink, I've read that the pi 4 really does need a heatsink. A small one and a little fan should be more than enough, or just a large passive sink.

I'm not certain, but my spidy senses tell me that 4gb might even be overkill. As for heatsink, I've read that the pi 4 really does need a heatsink. A small one and a little fan should be more than enough, or just a large passive sink.