ImNotNeko

Here is my workstation:
 
http://valid.x86.fr/bj13uz
 
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/23104130


 
 
I can stressed for over an hour it had no problem and I can use it without turning it off for days with my usual use case.

Dunno if it's official, but @Facebook on Twitter (here) has official Facebook.com links

And here is why "2FA" is one of the worst ideas ever. And also a misused term.
So i have my password
I have my "recovery phone number"
 
But I still dont have *two factor* authentication??
 
Well one of us cant count, google, and its not me!
 
 
If FB has a twitter Id bombard them there, but they probably dont…
 
 
Still not sure why these things arent better regulated, because yeah, doesnt sound like they actually care (about the potential damage they're doing by not protecting users accounts and data properly )

Sounds like they kinda don't care which sucks. I would recommend sending a few more emails.

Hi everyone,
 
My Facebook account was hacked  last week.
I had 2 Factor Authentication enabled, but somehow the hacker was able to hack my account and set up their own 2FA.
Now that I can't  recover my account without access to the hacker's email or phone, I had no other option but to send my photo ID to recover my account.
However, when I provided my photo ID Facebook sent me a temporary password which still required 2FA code.... -_-
When I replied to Facebook explaining my situation, they never replied back to me.
I need this account for my work and it is also the log in for several of my games.
 
 
TL;DR
Here is a video of me explaining what I wrote above.
 
 
Please let me know if there is a way to contact Facebook quickly.
I reallllly need this account back ASAP for both work and entertainment.
 

That is patina from the rad. Its a natural protective layer from when the rad was in storage before you bought it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patina#:~:text=Patina (%2Fpəˈt,acquired change of a surface
 
This is why when buying equipment (and even second hand equipment) you must toughly clean it before using. Your coolant has done its job correctly lifting the particles into suspension and they have layered on top of the fluid. With that much patina I would recommend a full clean down and replacement of fluid.

More explanatory info. When you buy new radiator or ever second hand radiator, air gets to the copper and brass inside, Copper creates a barrier to protect its self called "Patina" and is produced by oxidation (air and copper meeting and reacting). Good copper creates more Patina. This is unavoidable even though you may think your radiator is sealed and clean it will happen because at the factory air has already got to it. The longer air is there the more patina is created. Patina comes in many colours from green, brown, black, deep dark brown/red. 
 
Now coolant has serval properties about it and i wont go in to much depth about all the things it does, However one of the ingredients is Inhibitor. Now there are many types of inhibitor some good for liquid cooling some not so good but the basics is they work in one of two ways to help protect the system. 
 
1) The debris from the system and suspended in it till it gets to a place such as your reservoir. If the particles are small enough and light enough they will keep in suspension and keep circulating around your system, if they are light they may float to the top of your reservoir or were any air gap that isn't effected by the flow of the fluid. "Corsair XL5 coolant" uses this method.
 
2) Layering effect, Some inhibitors work by layering a microscopic protective layer around your entire system stopping and extra build up.
 
Hope this helps.

I haven't found a way to disassemble the res enough to clean it. Mine has the same line, but mine is mostly from plasterizer from new soft tubing. It is damn near impossible to clean lol.

Mark answer on yourself btw.
 
E: thx ❤️

I also assume yes.
 
I'm going to say no, only because DP doesn't have an USB-alt mode (as it were), at least for USB 3.0 (there is a data channel that would be sufficient for USB 2.0, but I don't think anyone has implemented it as such). Basically, DP doesn't have the right pinout.

Bit old this thread, but some good images and I am looking at doing the same - Watercooling a Quadro p2000 or M4000/5000.
 
Regarding your stock TIM comment, I have a lot of experience running Pro graphics cards. I had a couple of Fire Pros, then went to Nvidia with a Quadro 4000 then a Quadro K2200. I use Solidworks, and they always seem to run hot. After the first 18 months with my Quadro 4000 it was running 70-80% of the time at 90-92°C! This is where the fan sounds like the computer is about to take off on runway 2. I stripped the card down, and replaced the TIM (with some decent quality stuff) and the thermal pads on the ram. Wow! I was back down to 60-70°C, only going up to 90°C when rendering and using FEA/Simulation. This is still hot, but fine for GPU, the problem is the TIM has a liquid component and this does evaporate over time at these temperatures, reducing the thermal transfer efficiency of the TIM. After about 6-9 months I was back to running 70-80% of the time at 90-92°C. So I started a regime of stripping down my card every 6 months and replacing the TIM. (An issue with Nvidia Quadro cards is I think the stock coolers are pretty poor, the Fire Pros always had much bigger and better stock coolers in my opinion.)
 
I got a K2200 which was only a little better performance wise but ran a lot cooler due to less power. I still found the TIM dries out after a year or so and needs replacing as the GPU still runs pretty hot most of the time 60-70°C.
 
To get the temperatures down I am now looking to get a better (newer) card and water cool it. I think you have to get a water block for the equivalent gaming card or a generic GPU block and pack out the RAM with pads/copper shim or put heatsinks on the chips. I have a good deal of experience water cooling, and used to run an AMD Athlon with 2X SLI graphics cards all water cooled, and the Northbridge and ram all with water blocks. It would overclock 150% remain stable and stay cool, I didn't even have active radiators, it all ran of a Zalmann Resorator passive radiator at 50°C max and that was back in the days of >100nm Technology!
 
I will post something on a new thread with pics once I do it...

Good deal! 

Seems pretty good to me.

What is a Ryzen 3 3300x?

I have only heard tales of this mythical creature.

I just got my Note Ultra 20 yesterday. I bought it believing that I could have dual SIMs whether that be with a SIM card and eSIM or the Hybrid tray where I could have two physical SIM cards. My menus look exactly like yours. No SIM Card Manager to be found anywhere.
 
Got on support. I was informed by them that they don't sell the Hybrid model (one that supports two physical SIM cards) in the U.S. I believe Canada falls in that boat as well. Unfortunate for both of us.
 
I asked about eSIM. Even though the Ultra's support eSIM, it technically isn't enabled I guess. They mentioned how there may be an update in the future to allow eSIM but as of right now, it isn't available. How long one has to wait for this is unknown. I am probably going to be returning mine as this was a reason I went with the Ultra.
 
If anyone else has any info on this, please update this post. I have been searching all over the place to enable eSIM.

Because people who need workstations like Mac Pro prefer redundancy and safety over a little extra speed.

Because people who need workstations like Mac Pro prefer redundancy and safety over a little extra speed.

3200G is really similar to 2200G if you want to count that XD
 

Here is my workstation:
 
http://valid.x86.fr/bj13uz
 
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/23104130


 
 
I can stressed for over an hour it had no problem and I can use it without turning it off for days with my usual use case.

use a program like process lasso and set the core affinity to avoid hyperthread 
https://bitsum.com/
thats what people that play bdo use to boost game fps and yes it made me gain 40 fps when i had an i7 4770 i havent really played with smt on with my 3600 but i can test later

?
Keep in mind the Ryzen 5 3600x won't go to 5Ghz, but also keep in mind frequency isn't the only thing to judge a CPU on

Not an expert on Optane systems, but as a cache drive yes, it's supposed to make a difference. Fortunately they are cheap, so not much money lost if you give one a swing (assuming your system supports them)

Lol. I bought a phanteks halo for the front and did some custom stuff with the noctua heatsink cover, Plexiglass, and a XSPC sing rgb LED . I am pretty happy with the result, let me know what you think. Oh and the heat sink is the chromax u12s.

No. I maybe used it once long time ago. Didn't know exactly why, but I remember that was very strange system I was trying to repair/diagnose and that was one of method to eliminate potential problems.
 
So, as you see - it's not ironic. You assumed that I'm using DDU. You're wrong.
 
All kind of recommendation should be based on hard evidences. Not "some issues", but real examples with explanation. Why on dozens computers I made (and few I use every day for years) I have no stability issues, problems with bsods etc? Is it magic? Luck? No, it can't be, because computers do not work based on luck or magic. When system loads, it load current hardware configuration, check for hardware changes and if there any - installing drivers for new hardware and update current configuration. It can even restart itself when needed for proper work after drivers install at boot. Then old drivers remain inactive, because do not fit to any existing hardware. It's like having zipped program on hard drive - it takes some space, but it not autostart, not use any resources and is not used by any extension.
 
Is it that hard to understand? Because many people recommend something, it doesn't mean it's true. One person repeats after another and then we have crap like "reinstall system even if you change mouse" or "reinstall windows every minor problem, it's the easiest/only way".
 
It's always facts vs myths. As I said - I upgraded and prepared dozens of comptuers and basically almost never installed new system. My win10 has 4 or 5 years and works better than "fresh" (because I have lot of useful tools configured to make my work faster, not because it boots 2 seconds faster or something like that). If changing hardware is that sensitive, I should see ANY symptoms, anything. After all, I work over 10 hours per day using computer, so any instability or even suspicious delay is something I would noticed for sure.

xeon should be just as fast, so buy the xeon. Also it appears that you might have left CAPS-lock turned on by accident.

> I don't have much money to spare
> 9700K or 9900K?
> Already has 2080 Super
 
But those are all top of the line parts...
 
 
anyway... by the time most games use more than 8 cores, your concern will not just be the difference between 9700K and 9900K.
If your main task is to play games, get a 9700K and it will be great for a while.
 
If you don't already have a motherboard, why not a 3700X or wait for 10900K (or w/e the name will be)?