FoxHound

The original Threadripper may be limited to 128 unregistered ecc memory by the bios
 
Epyc does registered dimms and higher capacities.
Threadripper the newer one may do 32 GB sticks, but you'll need motherboard upgrade.
 
As a suggestion, you may want to check out : https://www.webhostingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=1786569
$400 for quad e5-4650 with 128 GB of memory , no hard drives, with Supermicro X9QRi-F+ motherboard that can do 1 TB registered DDR3 : https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/C600/X9QRi-F_.cfm
16 GB registered DDR3 sticks are cheap, ~ 25$ each ....
 

Threadripper supports 1TB and that 128GB max was because at the time when the motherboard was released, only 16GB modules were available. Now with 32GB modules, 256GB is possible. Couldn't find 64GB modules with a quick Google.

Its a PCIE 1X port, its the same as the 16X port your GPU is in but instead of 16 data lanes it only has one. Sound cards, raid controllers and other 1X devices can be used in that port.

Hardware wise it should not effect the lifespan of your components. However you run a huge risk of corrupting windows files that can cause all sorts of issues that take forever to diagnose and repair.

I recently picked up a 4K display that is non G-Sync/FreeSync and have to say unless you have some serious GPU power to keep your frame rate at 60+ FPS you would be better off with a G-Sync or FreeSync monitor. I get allot of tearing and have to drop down details quite a bit to get 60+ FPS and regret not getting a FreeSync display. Even SLI 1080's have issues running the games I play with high details at 4K with a constant 60+ FPS.
 
I don't think the slight benefit in moving from a founders edition of the 1080 to a custom card really makes much more than a few FPS difference at 4K and think you would be better off with a G-Sync/FreeSync display.

1080p is 1080p. Size doens't matter for this question. But if you plan on getting a 4k the 1080 is a required thing.

I used my Sennheiser HD 558's every day at work for 8-10 hours at a time and barly relise they are there.
 
I would recommend the HD558 or newer and more expensive HD559 for a light and comfortable headset. (No Mic)

I used my Sennheiser HD 558's every day at work for 8-10 hours at a time and barly relise they are there.
 
I would recommend the HD558 or newer and more expensive HD559 for a light and comfortable headset. (No Mic)

You don't have to but your much more likely to put allot of stress on the switches if you pull the caps off unevenly. Just make sure you pull evenly from both sides of the cap, that should help you prevent damage to the switch

I'm still waiting on Call of Destiny: Grand Theft Titan.

just make sure you check that the voltage is the same and it should work.

The grounds should be connected together on the PCB. All you need to do is attach the grounds together to avoid signal degradation. The only reason you have the two separate grounds is to have a reference when using a separate power supply and display.

This is what I have Link its kinda big has a few different color back lights and works great on my android and pc battery life is not too bad as well.

Better than my H100i is doing.

My number 2 core does this as well sometimes I notice its in sync with the multiplier, so I have been thinking that its most likely caused by the CPU boosting the single core for a few seconds.

Sounds like a grounding issue maybe, does the headphone plug fit all the way into the jack in the front? If so re-seat your audio header and make sure its on the right pins.

I had a setup like this running a few years ago. Make sure that you supply enough power to the PCI-E card using the molex or floppy power connector (not just the connector on the GPU).
I killed a laptop MB when my 670 tried to draw 75W through the MPCI-E slot.

Some times the audio drivers will change the line in (Blue) to the last pair of speakers. you'll need to download the software for the motherboard sound and see how it is configured.

Reminds me of these things..
 

Some times the audio drivers will change the line in (Blue) to the last pair of speakers. you'll need to download the software for the motherboard sound and see how it is configured.

Reminds me of these things..
 

If your going to Use PWM fans and want to run all fans off you MB the best choice would be a Powered PWM fan splitter Link (This will not control 3 pin fans, it will only power them)
 
If your going to be using 3 pin fans something like the grid or a front bay fan controller is going to be the most effective.
 
If you want to go with 140mm fans you could look at Noctua fans for a very quiet rig, but if you don't want to spend that much you could go with these Link(They perform well and get relatively quiet around 700 rpm)
 
Installing all 140mm fans will help you get more performance at a lower RPM and if you have the space you should do it. Just keep in mind you don't have to populate every fan for a quiet system.

Dead LEDs happened frequently on the non-RGB board. The switch covers they're using on the RGB models are supposed to prevent the ESD that creates problems with LEDs I believe.

Dubstep and not knowing how to control the volume of your intro are 2 entirely different things.

Dubstep and not knowing how to control the volume of your intro are 2 entirely different things.