OhhTee

I don't have a server rack currently, but I'll probably pick one up soon just to organize all of my stuff. I'll look into the Rosewill and StarUSA stuff, I don't think I need anything crazy as long as it holds up well.

Yeah, I was thinking about picking up a cheapo xeon and just rebuilding it. I could probably just repurpose the pentium/97h to become the unit for the surveillance stuff. Do you guys know of any decent cases for my high-capacity application? I'm currently browsing cases for 2U spaces right now, not really sure what I'm looking for yet haha.

Dragon Ball Super takes place 4 months after the Buu Saga and about 4 years before the two movies. The second movie takes place like 2 years after the first movie. They're going to cover the two movies during the series. I would find a link but I'm too lazy.

Honestly, I doubt SSJ4 will be integrated in the series since it was a GT thing. DBGT is more of a parallel universe, imo. It's possible that they'll add it, there aren't that much info right now.
 
    Cause Goku is a carrot farmer!

Honestly, I doubt SSJ4 will be integrated in the series since it was a GT thing. DBGT is more of a parallel universe, imo. It's possible that they'll add it, there aren't that much info right now.
 
    Cause Goku is a carrot farmer!

What's your system being made to run?

You have to get around the access denied by claiming ownership of the folders. When you use a hard drive in a different computer, or in your case, new windows install on an ssd, you're changing the "owner" of the drive. You can do a quick Google search on how to change the ownership. You just simply right click on the folder and go into properties, security tab, and advanced I believe. There will be a button somewhere that will say change ownership or something similar. I'm on mobile right now so I can't look at the exact steps, but I hope this helps!

Hey guys,
 
-snip-
 
OhhTee
 
/edit. I just realized this was a dumb question. That's how fast a gigabit transfer is. Disregard this question haha.

Another vote for WD Red from me. If you're running them in a RAID array or if you want redundancy. If not, just go with like a WD Blue or something similar.

Like what Frankie said, the red is primarily used as a nas drive. It's slower than some of the other drives and more expensive since it's more reliable. I suggest grabbing a 1 TB WD Blue drive instead. It's a good mix between performance and reliability. Or you could grab a bigger WD Black drive, they're faster than the Blue drives but they're a bit more audible.

Yeah, you're correct. The Black series have a bigger cache than the blue in general until you get to about 1 TB for the Blue. That's when you have the option for 64 mb cache instead of 32. Generally the Blue is for simple everyday use and the Black is meant for heavier workloads. The Black has faster read/write than the Blue too. #BLUE4LIFE

Make sure you're grabbing ecc ram. Pretty sure FreeNAS ZFS requires 1 gb of ecc ram for every 1 tb of storage.

Make sure you're grabbing ecc ram. Pretty sure FreeNAS ZFS requires 1 gb of ecc ram for every 1 tb of storage.

After reading and comprehending his misunderstanding of basic networking, the solution is clear.  Sam, you have to get a new father.  I know you are probably attached, but honestly this is for the best.  

you will net get gigbit over wifi no matter what you do, only the things plugged into the switch can gigabit with each other, 
For example
Desktop ----
                  Switch , these 2 get Gigbit with each other ------Router
server  -----
                                                                                             |
                                                                                             |
                                                                                             Laptop     Phones etc
first off wifi won't gigabit 
Laptop willl get (assuming its 802N) 100mbps to the desktop or server
unless you plug via ethernet to switch then gigabit
 
btw Switch doesn't give off wifi its just an ethernet splitter with Gigabit

Alright, that clears everything up. Thanks for you help!

Wouldn't an APU be enough for a Steambox?

For 1440, I would recommend a 980 or 2x 970. I personally would go with 2x 970, it outperforms the 980 for only about $150 more. A single 970 would struggle to keep your FPS at a steady 60 fps.
You would also need to purchase an SLI bridge to connect the two GPUs together for the 2x 970 option.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
 
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($219.98 @ OutletPC) 
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($26.75 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($100.64 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  ($156.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($98.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($51.85 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI)  ($359.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI)  ($359.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($114.99 @ Micro Center) 
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($79.99 @ NCIX US) 
Total: $1570.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-19 18:27 EST-0500

Too bad mine is worse than Darkman's 2.39/0.55.
 
Gotta love Comcast. If only FIOS extended about 10 miles further... GET TO WORK VERIZON.

trying to figure out what the best sub 100$ APU is. i didnt get a pc for christmas so i am gonna build a 300$ or so build and add to it as the year goes on. im looking at the AMD a10-5800l 3.8 ghz quad core. if there is a better APU please do tell. when i say better i mean able to proccess graphics faster and better. i will be playing in just 720p due to my monitor being only 720p. if there is an apu that is higher than 100$ that is better please do tell also i may spend a little extra.
 
thanks-JD (p.s. dont know if this is right thread)
 
if you want to see the build i am going with now and leave thoughts here it is: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/jdmilion/saved/c73323  (no RAM because i have 16 gigs at home)

I kinda thought this was public knowledge? Guess not.
 
Probably a repost from somewhere else earlier this year.

Ohhhhhhhh interestingggggg. Followed.

Go APU for an HTPC. You don't need all that power!

What's your location, computer uses, and do you need any peripherals?
 
You can reuse your boot drive ssd but it's a pain in the butt to get it to work properly.

This is what I would go for the main core components, the peripherals are up to your personal preferences. If you live near a Micro Center, this will be cheaper.  
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant   CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($319.00 @ Amazon)  CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($119.99 @ NZXT)  Motherboard: EVGA Z97 Classified EATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($279.99 @ Amazon)  Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  ($156.99 @ Amazon)  Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)  Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($51.85 @ OutletPC)  Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (3-Way SLI)  ($359.99 @ Amazon)  Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (3-Way SLI)  ($359.99 @ Amazon)  Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (3-Way SLI)  ($359.99 @ Amazon)  Case: Corsair 760T White ATX Full Tower Case  ($172.60 @ Amazon)  Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($109.99 @ Newegg)  Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)  ($89.98 @ OutletPC)  Total: $2489.35 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-21 15:22 EST-0500      
 
You connect the sata data cable from the DVD Drive to a SATA in the motherboard and you connect a SATA power connector from the PSU to the DVD Drive.