Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[iDeFecZx]

9 hours ago, vetali said:

Yeah this is what civic hybrid brakes look like after they got rid of the drums in the back.

Worst part is, that was the fronts 

[Bitter]

Use your damn brakes people!

[bcredeur97]

30 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Use your damn brakes people!

I just cover mine in oil so they don’t corrode /s 

[jagdtigger]

15 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

*laughs in JLR*

They genuinely consider this normal wear

Looks like as if it were overheating or something....

[Bitter]

Both those pictures are rust issues due to lack of use/lack of pad application. Can be caused by lots of sitting then light driving or caused by part of the brakes being seized and preventing full pad application on that rotor face.

[vetali]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Use your damn brakes people!

Its why even in the passport I do some hard braking on some backroads. Normal driving I don't brake hard, mostly just engine brake. Doesn't help with the morning squeak though.

[Bitter]

Just now, vetali said:

Its why even in the passport I do some hard braking on some backroads. Normal driving I don't brake hard, mostly just engine brake. Doesn't help with the morning squeak though.

One a day keeps the rust at bay I say. A few hard stops won't wear brakes out nearly as much as rust build up does. I borderline abuse the brakes in my daily Mazda and I've got more than 70% pad left and barely any rust on the rotor edges creeping in, it's just starting....5 years later.

[jagdtigger]

12 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Both those pictures are rust issues

Rust has nothing to do with my case, the parking brake mechanism seized up and it wasnt releasing fully. The whole wheel was getting hot as a result.

I only use the brake when its needed. For slowing i usually use the engine, can save a lot of fuel. Way more than the start-stop idiocy ever can hope for, especially with the even newer BS of " oh you llet go of the gas, lets switch to neutral and shut off the engine"....

Edited October 31, 2021 by jagdtigger

[iDeFecZx]

44 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

Looks like as if it were overheating or something....

They all do it, only cars I saw that didnt were F Types and the RR Sports/Full size RRs.

Just cheaping out for the OEM brakes. Aftermarket options were fine too

[Bitter]

3 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

Rust has nothing to do with my case, the parking brake mechanism seized up and it wasnt releasing fully. The whole wheel was getting hot as a result.

I only use the brake when its needed. For slowing i usually use the engine, can save a lot of fuel. Way more than the start-stop idiocy ever can hope for, especially with the even newer BS of " oh you llet go of the gas, lets switch to neutral and shut off the engine"....

So the rust pitting, bands of rust, and 1/8th inch tall rust lips on either edge of the rotor face mean nothing?   Says to me the brakes weren't working right before the parking brake problem.

I see some darkening that may be caused by heat, but overall the largest issue I see is it looks like something seized and was preventing full pad apply over a long period of time OR the brakes just aren't getting used enough. Without seeing the inner face it's tough to which is the case. Generally when it's seized parts one face is kind of normal and the other is all fubard with thick rust banding, heavy pitting, even chunking, and thick tall rust lips. Sometimes it's a mis-match of pad aggressiveness and driving habits, very long life low friction ceramic pads and low brake use make this much worse since the pads lack the abrasive properties to scrub the rotors clean, especially once they're all loaded up with rust into the pads too. It's like trying to stop with wooden brake pads on wooden rotors. I see this aaaaaalllllllll the time at work.

[jagdtigger]

Nice write up, but that image is pretty unreliable as a "witness". This is how it looks like when you drive with a seized handbrake for weeks. (By the time i noticed it was too late, and the mechanic was full of work as usual so i had to drove it like that.) Just imagine if the aluminum wheel was hot to the touch how hot the rotor couldve been?

As for my braking habits i dont use them that much, this is how the rear looks (this was the easiest to reach in the parking lot):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9dvd32i779ao8o/IMG_20211031_210234.jpg?dl=0

[Bitter]

55 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

Nice write up, but that image is pretty unreliable as a "witness". This is how it looks like when you drive with a seized handbrake for weeks. (By the time i noticed it was too late, and the mechanic was full of work as usual so i had to drove it like that.) Just imagine if the aluminum wheel was hot to the touch how hot the rotor couldve been?

As for my braking habits i dont use them that much, this is how the rear looks (this was the easiest to reach in the parking lot):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9dvd32i779ao8o/IMG_20211031_210234.jpg?dl=0

That's a properly working relatively new brake installation, yes, however you're already getting some rust creep in from the rotor edges. I assume they're parts counter grade ceramic pads which is pretty on par for them. For people who do lighter braking, less driving, or rear brakes I prefer something a little more aggressive to keep the brakes scrubbed clean like metallic pads or the ceramic/metallic hybrid pads that Raybestos sells as their EHT line.

The pitted rust bands on the older photo were from before the parking brake locked up since they're cut into and glazed over by the brake pad and heat. Rust pitting like that doesn't happen in weeks it happens in months. I assume that's a parking brake that uses the caliper brake pads and not a drum brake inside the rotor hat, that would apply the inner pad more than the outer pad if the slides and pads are seized into the brackets. It's a good idea to once a year go through the brakes and make sure all the parts are moving freely and fix them if they aren't. I need to do that on the fronts of my daily driver this year if I can find the time.

[jagdtigger]

36 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I assume they're parts counter grade ceramic pads

Not sure the exact part number but i see textar. I drive it on a daily basis, most of the time to and from work, about 30 km on mostly freeway.

[Bitter]

14 minutes ago, jagdtigger said:

Not sure the exact part number but i see textar. I drive it on a daily basis, most of the time to and from work, about 30 km on mostly freeway.

It can be hard to fully use rear brakes in daily driving, especially if the car has strong front bias and suspension dive. If those are caliper parking brakes I'd suggest dragging the brakes a couple times on the highway maybe once or twice a week where you'd normally coast down like a hill or something. That rust is pretty light and may clean off but doing that should stop it from getting farther or thicker.

[MultiGamerClub]

On 10/21/2021 at 10:44 PM, Oskar94a said:

What are your local gas prices? 

This is getting ridiculous.

 

Regular gas 17.84 sek per litre (7.85 usd per gallon)

Premium gas  18.40 sek per litre (8.1 usd per gallon)

Diesel 19.37 sek per litre. (8.5 usd per gallon)

 

It's increasing daily. 

Ive spotted a swedish man!

 

Welcome to norway where our usual price is 16.55NOK for a liter of diesel and you swedish people are telling us norwegians its CHEAP?? Its expensive!

/s

 

In all honesty seeing swedish gas prices go beyond 20SEK and their saying its supposed to go EVEN HIGHER???? Jesus fucking christ

 

In Agder/Arendal the diesel is usually 2 or 3 NOK cheaper than where i live so.. usually 14-15NOK.. So thats.. kinda jealous to be honest

 

Going up to 17-18NOK some times where i live.. Questioning if i should get a Tesla and say fuck it to my dream volvo car that i have now

Dont want to sell or switch cars, but diesel going to 20NOK is really bad

[MultiGamerClub]

Also before i forget it, might have a really bad idea.

If i get the chance, i will buy a shitbox corolla and place BMW bumpers on front and back to confuse friends.. Because the neighbor did exactly this the other day and i could swear it wasnt a BMW.. It was NOT a 1-series car.. From the cars registration online it says a 1.6 liter corolla car , oh man i wanna build that too haha

[Guest willies leg]

On 10/30/2021 at 10:32 AM, bcredeur97 said:

Just don’t break the coolant pipe in front of the battery 

 

No big deal, I checked with my insurance, comprehensive covers that. But thanks for the heads up, just in case it happens I'll be prepared!

[Bitter]

On 10/31/2021 at 5:17 PM, MultiGamerClub said:

Also before i forget it, might have a really bad idea.

If i get the chance, i will buy a shitbox corolla and place BMW bumpers on front and back to confuse friends.. Because the neighbor did exactly this the other day and i could swear it wasnt a BMW.. It was NOT a 1-series car.. From the cars registration online it says a 1.6 liter corolla car , oh man i wanna build that too haha

I think some WRX bumpers are the exact width and nearly the same mounting points for 7th gen Corolla.

[MultiGamerClub]

20 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I think some WRX bumpers are the exact width and nearly the same mounting points for 7th gen Corolla.

Thanks for the info, been a while since I drove a gas car that wasn't newer than 2000

 

Kinda miss a car I don't care too much about.

[Bitter]

How a Chevy Malibu turns into a Chevy NoVa. (Knowing Spanish makes the joke work)

Good ole 4T45E fluid pipe.

[Oskar94a]

On 10/31/2021 at 11:16 PM, MultiGamerClub said:

-snip-

 

Yeah I wonder how it's going to turn out.

With the rising electricity pricing in the south because electricity shortage, they closed a nuclear reactor and now imports electricity from Germany/Poland, I'm quite sure the Swedish government is going to implement some taxes on the electric cars in the near future. 

[OldFord76]

21 hours ago, Bitter said:

How a Chevy Malibu turns into a Chevy NoVa. (Knowing Spanish makes the joke work)

Good ole 4T45E fluid pipe.

 

Love it, NoVa.

[Selle]

8 hours ago, Oskar94a said:

 

Yeah I wonder how it's going to turn out.

With the rising electricity pricing in the south because electricity shortage, they closed a nuclear reactor and now imports electricity from Germany/Poland, I'm quite sure the Swedish government is going to implement some taxes on the electric cars in the near future. 

The Swedish government lowered taxes on electric cars in April this year, I will be very surprised if they raise them now. You still have a very low number of EVs in Sweden. The electricity used by EVs has a low impact on the electricity prices 

 

In Norway they plan on implementing sales tax on EVs costing more than 600.000NOK from January 1st

[jagdtigger]

On 11/3/2021 at 8:54 AM, Oskar94a said:

imports electricity from Germany/Poland

I dont think they can from Germany, AFAIK Germany also has a electricity shortage. They will have plenty of time to regret closing nuclear plants, ATM nothing can beat those things in density and reliability.

[Obioban]

I should probably make a post in this thread. I've got a couple cars-- and e46 M3 that I use for weekend and track use, and e46 wagon mechanically converted to M3 bits (engine/trans/diff/suspension/control arms/subframes/exhaust/seats/cluster/steering) used for DD, and e39 M5 used for DD, and an i3 used for not spending money.

 

M3:

 

 

M5:

 

 

Wagon:

 

 

 

 

... nobody needs to see the i3.

 

M3 is the "project car" of the 3. Been modding it for 15 years now and have taken off more parts that are currently on. But as it currently stands...

 

Engine:
OEM ( Die Wethje) CSL Airbox
Schrick 280/272 cams
TMS pullies
Dr VANOS cryo treated exhaust hub
Beisan systems lifetime VANOS sealing plate o-rings
Beisan systems lifetime VANOS solenoid
Beisan oil pump disk
Beisan VANOS rattle repair kit
Beisan VANOS seals
Beisan timing chain tensioner guide
TurboToy (modified ARP) cam bolts
updated BMW high pressure vanos oil line
lifetime CPV o-ring

Exhaust:
SuperSprint V1 stepped headers (swaintech coated)
SuperSprint HJS catted V1 Section 1
SuperSprint resonated twin tube section 2
SuperSprint Street muffler

Engine Management:
CSL Engine Management
MCCHIP-DKR Dyno tune
OE CSL IAT
OE CSL Map rail/sensor
Aux/clutched fan replaced with ecu controlled (using Z4M values) spal fan
SMG shift lights turned on
post cat 02s turned down but left on (ready)
secondary air pump sensor disabled
cold start sequence disabled
non sport throttle mapping
sport button disabled for future alternate use
sport mode memory enabled
EGT tweaked for HJS Cats' allowable max temps
Top speed limiter removed
Dyno limiter removed
CSL warmup light values

Suspension:
Fat Cat Motorsports Stage 3 Coilovers
Springs: 375 FL, 350 FR, 700 RL, 650 RR (equal frequencies left/right, 1.97hz front, 2.10hz rear, 75% front roll couple with sway in middle of adjustment range)
Corner balanced and preload dialed out, with equal ride heights left/right with me in the drivers seat
Ground control street camber plates
Ground control street RSMs
Ground control Front sway/bushings/brackets/end links
CSL Rear sway/bushings/brackets, with home made adjustable end link
Sealed monoball RTABs
Bimmerworld sealed monoball rear adjustable camber arms
CSL Kingpins

Steering
ZHP/yellow tag steering rack
25% assist reduction by shimming pressure regulator
CHF-11 conversion
Alcantara steering wheel

Brakes:
817.3 DSC unit (CSL)
Porsche 996 calipers
CSL/ZCP/Z4M rotors (FCP)
stainless lines
OE Porsche Street pads (FCP)
track pads (FCP)
Castrol SRF (FCP)
Hard Motorsport Brake Ducts
Hard motorsport backing plates

Body:
Evolve CF roof
Vorsteiner CSL trunk
Fucy CSL diffuser
Gunmetal grills/gills
Depo smoked front corner lights
35% tint (3M)
vinyl M stripes on trunk badge (stock colors, less prone to fading)
modern BMW wheel center caps
shark fin removed
OEM driver’s side keyhole cover (to deter thieves)

Wheels:
18" RAC RG-63s in gunmetal (street)
17" Apex ARC-8s (track)
TMS 75mm studs

Lights:
TFX projectors
55w bulbs/ballasts/ignitors in 4300k
85w halogen highs, programmed to come on with the xenon highs
Outer brake light ring enabled for normal braking
Brake lights programmed to strobe under hard stops
e9X LED license plate lights

Interior:
Cobra Nogaros in Imola Red leather, with factory heating pads install and adjustable lumbar
Brey Krause Mounts on factory e46 manual sliders
Brey Krause Rear deck harness mounts
Alcantara wrapped header liner
Alcantara wrapped pillars
Alcantara wrapped rear deck
Alcantara wrapped steering wheel
imola leather wrapped center console
imola leather wrapped arm rest
imola leather wrapped ebrake book
Z8 ebrake handle
M3 oval interior mirror retrofit

Stereo:
100% of factory stereo, mounting brackets, and wiring harness deleted
Avin Avant 4 with speakers plugged in directly to unit
Wireless CarPlay module

Chassis:
Vincebar, epoxy/rivet under floor version
TMS subframe reinforcement kit with extra reinforcements
BMW structural foam in subframe cavity
updated BMW diff mount bolts
CMP subframe raising solid mounts
front strut tower inserts to remove slots
Slonik chassis reenforcement plate

Misc:
Wavetrac differential
Brail GU1R lithium ion battery (6 lbs), mounted in the engine bay to eliminate 6 lb battery cable
Entire factory stereo (inc wiring harness, mounts, etc) removed
Light weight (2 speaker) stereo powered by head unit installed
Avin 9" touch screen head unit install (wireless CarPlay 99% of the time)
CSL Cabin air filter housing
Auto Solutions SSK
RE Transmission mounts
Hella Horns
CDV delete
VAG grocery bag hooks
CSL Aux coolant pump
Washer tank swapped for e39 high intensity washer tank
e39 washer stalk for extra button to toggle M Track Mode while preserving on quick DSC off and steering wheel controls

Coding (non comprehensive highlights):
CSL oil level display (in cluster) enabled
M track mode enabled
Strobing shift lights

 

All the work other than tire mounting and paint is done by me.