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nicky9499

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About nicky9499

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  1. Actually, that's exactly the last thing I would do even though I have a box of other modular PSU cables. They may use the same OEM plastic plug but the pinouts can be different which will fry stuff when you hook them up. Never mix different manufacturer modular cables. Found this, it's got good reviews. Will get a new set, probably looks better too. Thanks for the advice gents.
  2. Firstly let me just say I have already done my googling, so before anyone jumps in with "if your PSU doesn't have the right connector's it probably junk/too old"... This is a Superflower Leadex II 650W 80+ Gold. The reason why it doesn't have enough PCIe cables is because it was a hand-me-down as "tower only" - no spare cables or accessories. Previously it had a 1060 so 1x 6-pin PCIe power was good. Now I'm trying to stick a 2080Ti in there but realize it only has 1 PCIe Y-cable. Does have 1 molex cable entire free though. Hence, before I power up or blow anything up, is th
  3. OP here, with the same OP (original problem) with Windows 7 again. This time with a Linksys EA8100 but this router is not the problem because it was swapped in over a year ago with no issues. Instead, today W7 on two wired clients are giving me a 0x80070035 "cannot find path" error, despite both being able to ping each other and see each other in network devices. Both are directly wired to the router (switch is planned but I imagine that will be another clusterfk), and for purposes of this diagnosis I've even torn out the Mellanox cards from both machines. I
  4. Left it for another day and it managed to crawl to the finish line. I've compared the size properties of both origin and cloned drives/partitions in Windows and they match up exactly, right down to the last byte. Does this mean all the data is intact or is it possible some files are corrupted despite byte size being correct?
  5. I've run it for quite a while now, here's it's status: It ran the first 5-6 hours at 115+MB/s like a normal drive would, only slowing to a crawl at the last few percent. Anyone else have ideas on how to successfully read the last tiny part of the drive, or even have an idea what might be causing such a problem? If unreadable, is there a way to have it report what files are affected? The drive has a fair bit of fragmentation last I checked in Defraggler.
  6. Gday gents, I know the title might sound a bit weird and it truly is so let me try and explain. There's a 4TB WD Red that contains several video projects that I'm trying to clone/backup. It used to be a storage drive repurposed as a project drive this year and lives in a case with 7 other HDDs. Problem: I've now tried Macrium Reflect (which is used for the other routine backups), Testdisk and Teracopy, and all of them keep failing at the same spot. Reflect reports an IO error at 97%, Teracopy stops at 97%, chkdsk stops at 47% of "verifying file data", Tes
  7. Updating this thread for posterity and others who come upon this thread in future. - Contacted Swiftech support on Telegram and they offered to retap it, you just need to pay for shipping both ways. - Hit up a few WC stores and met with some local enthusiasts to try on all sort of fittings. Ironically enough, what ended up fitting was a pair of "china channel" Barrow compression fittings - $2 each, low priced indeed! I've always held LTT's community in high regard but this issue was resolved no thanks to a resident elitist troll. Nevertheless, one problem
  8. Nowhere in any of my posts did I imply high end. What I did write is that it's mainstream and mass produced, which means I do not expect that the only fitting that goes in it will be found buried in a plumber's spreadsheet off google images. Where they started from and who else is or isn't on the market is not my concern at this time. Funny enough I happen to know how annoying it is to find camera mount bolts having DIY-ed rigs for them before. But enough off topic. Here to find a fitting. In a search result the Apogee is listed as "NPSM" http://www.xtrem
  9. Bombastinator at this point I'm getting the feeling you're just trying to be funny. I'm not in the mood, sorry. This is not some no-brand SuperHyperCooler from Wish.com. Neither was it cobbled together with a welding torch and 3d printer in my friend Joe's dark basement. It's a mass produced Swiftech Apogee that's been on the market since at least 2014. It obviously uses something very slightly smaller than G1/4 which is what I'm trying to find and purchase. So here is the crystal clear question again: - Does anyone know of or has used co
  10. I'm not in china. The majority of WC parts sold here are in "Murican" specs. What are those four screw fitting sizes?
  11. What other metric sizes are there? Found this on EKWB's website. Tempted to go and buy a pair of 1/8s but literally nowhere on the internet says Swiftech blocks use that size. Additionally, the holes on the block measure to be nowhere near 9mm, more like 12.8+? I'm trying to put in, as gently as possible, every 1/4 fitting I have but already the thread tops are starting to strip. Incredibly frustrating.
  12. Gday gents. I dug out an old Swiftech Apogee XL2 block recently and discovered none of my G1/4 fittings well...fit. Everywhere I've searched says it takes G1/4. http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL2.aspx To be sure I took the same fitting and stuck it on a Swiftech MCP50X which also takes G1/4 and it goes in without any fuss. I'm definitely not putting any force on it and risk stripping the thread on the block. Can someone advise what "other" fitting sizes are smaller than G1/4 and the correct ones for a Swiftech Apogee please? Thanks
  13. Thank you, since I already have the car coolant it should be ok to just add a drop of biocide into the dilute instead of buying a new bottle of PC coolant right? Can you advise on proper clean and prep please, eg. do I need to rinse them in distilled or even some sort of solution? I wouldn't call these rusty but they are definitely oxidized from 2 years of sitting.
  14. I'm not picky about color, was more concerned about longevity of the loop with these old and exposed parts being used. Most PC WC coolants are geared towards inhibiting algae/biological growth in the loop while auto ones are more anti-rust, anti-corrosion. @Martin: it feels just a touch thicker than water but definitely not syrupy. As it's a concentrate it will also have to be diluted with distilled water.
  15. Gday gents, Long story very short; I have a bunch of watercooling parts purchased almost 2 years ago which I've never gotten around to installing, mainly because the radiator is so large that it had to be mounted on top of my case, which meant drilling holes in the rear to route the pipes. Recently I dusted off the box of parts and noticed the chrome fittings are a bit rusty/oxidized. The radiator itself, while previously cleaned out, might also be the same as it's just been sitting there atop my tower. With this in mind, is it advisable to build the loop anyway and run
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