WING X99 | A CNC-milled Scratch Build! (Benchmarks, temps and wallpapers posted!)

[paddy-stone]

22 minutes ago, Brodholm said:

40 Metric miles is about 250 of "your" miles  

I will just leave this here  

 

I must be missing something here, lol... A metric mIle is 1500 Metres, a standard mile is 1600 Metres, so 40 Metric miles is 60,000 Metres (37.5 Standard Miles), so 2.5 Miles shorter than most people's miles

 

[edit] Anyway, sorry, meant to say a nice update on your progress again... I love seeing your updates to the project. I love building PCs and I am literally itching to get my hands on the new AMD RyZen chips.... but I also wish I could get my hands on your computer parts and build it too

 

 

[Brodholm]

1 hour ago, paddy-stone said:

 

[edit] Anyway, sorry, meant to say a nice update on your progress again... I love seeing your updates to the project. I love building PCs and I am literally itching to get my hands on the new AMD RyZen chips.... but I also wish I could g

No worries man, I did not know that the metric mile was not 10km, so I am the one that is wrong  Its only here in Scandinavia.This is why we are confused  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scandinavian_mile its 10km. But anyway, its 400 km away. So 400000 meters.

[paddy-stone]

6 minutes ago, Brodholm said:

This is why we are confused  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scandinavian_mile its 10km. But anyway, its 400 km away. So 400000 meters.

Oh wow, yeah 400Km is a long way.. and now I understand why you said 250 miles, LOL

 

In the UK we generally still use Miles for distances (Standard Mile 1600 Metres), sometimes Kilometres too for our neighbouring european visitors as much as anything.

 

TBH I have never heard of the scandinavian Mile at all... that's very interesting. See, I learn stuff every time I visit your topic Brodholm

 

 

[Brodholm]

1 minute ago, paddy-stone said:

Oh wow, yeah 400Km is a long way.. and now I understand why you said 250 miles, LOL

 

In the UK we generally still use Miles for distances (Standard Mile 1600 Metres), sometimes Kilometres too for our neighbouring european visitors as much as anything.

 

TBH I have never heard of the scandinavian Mile at all... that's very interesting. See, I learn stuff every time I visit your topic Brodholm

 

 

Units are a mess tbh. I wish everyone could use the same. And when doing calculations (like physics, thermodynamics, well basically everything) the metric system rains supreme. Imperial have some good things though, but the bad far outweigh the good. I still get soo annoyed at "table spoon", "teaspoon" that we still use here in Sweden for cooking etc... 

Now that I know that the Scandinavian mile is not a standard unit just another word for 10km I wish we would change it to just km... 

[paddy-stone]

1 minute ago, Brodholm said:

Units are a mess tbh. I wish everyone could use the same. And when doing calculations (like physics, thermodynamics, well basically everything) the metric system rains supreme. Imperial have some good things though, but the bad far outweigh the good. I still get soo annoyed at "table spoon", "teaspoon" that we still use here in Sweden for cooking etc... 

Now that I know that the Scandinavian mile is not a standard unit just another word for 10km I wish we would change it to just km... 

Yes, I totally agree... there needs to be universal measurements etc, it is too confusing otherwise... the only problem is that it would upset some long standing system of some country or another and they wouldn't want to give up on their way of doing it unfortunately

 

You hit the nail on the head with the cooking and teaspoons etc, it's often a problem too because it is shortened to Tbsp for tablespoon (15ml) and Tsp for teaspoon (5ml), so when you are cooking and trying to read a recipe, you better hope there are no spelling mistakes on that page, lol.... I remember reading a story or hearing a comedian and they were describing a situation where they were doing this, and as it was a cookbook (before electronic readers), there was a splash of food on the book and so he mis-read Tsp as Tbsp, and added 5 Tablespoons of salt instead of 5 Teaspoons and not knowing - he then described the people at dinner spitting out their food and swearing and people puking, LOL

I am lucky in a way as when I was growing up we were taught both imperial AND metric system for the most common things. But when I do projects, DIY or computers etc, I prefer to use Metric as IMO the measurements are more precise. I usually use an old carpenter's trick though and only measure once for something, that measurement is recorded on a stick/piece of 2x2", so that every measurement will be done from that stick instead of the tape measure over and over again, which could be wrong because of several things. It makes the process easier, especially if measuring for instance lots of frames for windows.

I just these last few days made myself a fly screen for my window, but also needed an anchor point for it, so have glued a wooden frame around the opening of the window, the frame has metal inserts (bolt heads) glued at regular intervals into it... and have made 3 frames with fly screens I made that fit onto that frame, and they have magnets inserted into their frames that line up with the bolt heads. So when I attach//detach the frames they can be done one-handed, and the reason for 3 frames where one would have done, is because of the handle of the window, so I just have to remove one little frame to close the window. and When I open it again I just attach that middle fram back onto the mounts.

I think it's pretty cool anyway, it needs a bit of fine finishing to look nice... but the technical side of it is near perfect, all the bolt heads and magnets sit perfectly centred so that there is always just enough magnetism to keep the frame in place, but not too much that you have to really tug the frame too much to get it loose when you want

I think I am just going to finish it with a white paint to match the PVC windows, I don't mind the bolt heads/magnets showing though as it attests to the technical process involved... but I'll see whether I change my mind in a few days. It only took me a few part days to get this done, mostly with hand tools too as I don't have a garage/shed to use at the moment, so I had to wait for a nice day or 2 to get this done, which in the UK isn't that easy at this time of year, lol.

[stealth80]

I grew up working with metric only, however I spent 16 years or so working on American made helicopters so I became equally adept with imperial, now I'm on a metric aircraft getting skill fade!

 

This looks amazing so far, I really wish I covered milling/CNC etc during my apprenticeship, unfortunately it only covered work with sheet metal, riveting etc, damn!

 

Out of interest, how much would you say you have spent on aluminium in total prior to CNC-ing?

[Brodholm]

51 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

I grew up working with metric only, however I spent 16 years or so working on American made helicopters so I became equally adept with imperial, now I'm on a metric aircraft getting skill fade!

 

This looks amazing so far, I really wish I covered milling/CNC etc during my apprenticeship, unfortunately it only covered work with sheet metal, riveting etc, damn!

 

Out of interest, how much would you say you have spent on aluminium in total prior to CNC-ing?

Did a calculation a few weeks back.
 

• Aluminium (10 USD/KG with taxes, for EN5754 H111). I have used one whole sheet of 8x1000x2000mm (42,3kg) and about half of a 10mm sheet (54kg*0,5=27kg). Of the 20mm I would say I have used about 15KG in total. That totals 42,3+27+15 = 84,3 kg in total. That's a total of 850 USD. And I would say acrylic is about 300 USD. It is at least over a 1000 USD in just materials in this case. I recon that If I did one again with the correct CAM programs with no mistakes I could get down the usage quite a bit though. At least 20-30% or even more.

I was a bit suprised when I calculated them together the first time. It adds up

[stealth80]

11 minutes ago, Brodholm said:

Did a calculation a few weeks back.
 

• Aluminium (10 USD/KG with taxes, for EN5754 H111). I have used one whole sheet of 8x1000x2000mm (42,3kg) and about half of a 10mm sheet (54kg*0,5=27kg). Of the 20mm I would say I have used about 15KG in total. That totals 42,3+27+15 = 84,3 kg in total. That's a total of 850 USD. And I would say acrylic is about 300 USD. It is at least over a 1000 USD in just materials in this case. I recon that If I did one again with the correct CAM programs with no mistakes I could get down the usage quite a bit though. At least 20-30% or even more.

I was a bit suprised when I calculated them together the first time. It adds up

Still less than a 6950X! Will you transfer the case in the future?

 

Also, how much of that material ended up in that bin bag?

[Jetfighter808]

Can you sell the shavings as scrap?

[failwheeldrive]

Been following your work since the beginning of your Model 01 build log.  Always been impressed by your chassis designs and fabrication skills.  Top notch stuff!

[Brodholm]

On 2017-02-18 at 1:51 AM, stealth80 said:

Still less than a 6950X! Will you transfer the case in the future?

 

Also, how much of that material ended up in that bin bag?

I would say on most parts more then half.

On 2017-02-19 at 1:07 AM, Jetfighter808 said:

Can you sell the shavings as scrap?

Yes you can. But you do not get much. And this is mixed with plastic so I don't even know if they will accept it.

On 2017-02-19 at 7:01 AM, VMarshall said:

Is this full customized ?
Omg man, you really put an effort for this project. 

A scratch build. Chassis is built from the ground up

On 2017-02-19 at 4:56 PM, failwheeldrive said:

Been following your work since the beginning of your Model 01 build log.  Always been impressed by your chassis designs and fabrication skills.  Top notch stuff!

Thanks mate, warms my heart

[Brodholm]

This is the base for the GPU-connector block.
These are very small o-ring slots for the GPU-blocks
Had to use a 1mm end mill for these.
Doing the bigger O-ring slots for the connector plate. I am using 2mm O-ring string and I am making 2.5 mm wide and 1,35 mm deep slots for them.
Base part completed. Water channel slots are 13mm wide and 5mm deep. Equaling about the same area as a 10mm ID hard tubing pipe.
Do you see the suffering I put myself trough to document this! This is all over the workshop! And these gets a static charge and stick to everything! I could be using the dust shoe but then the video and picture production would suffer!
This sticks to everything...
Yeah, everywhere...
This is the Top part of the big connector plate.

Profile all cut.

Countersinking!
All done, except for some engraving.
Did a test of the engraving and also the sphere for the pump tops.
Turned out nicely so I proceeded to the real pieces.
First up, the engraving

Doing this inverted from the back side produces this very neat effect. Looks super good in my opinion.
Now it is time for the base of the big connector plate.





Res being milled, ohhhh yes!


Really pleased with the quality of the cuts. Time to flip it around and do scary stuff to it!
Don't want to ruin this now. So much work put into this and I was very nervous for the pump spheres.


Turned out great! Could not hope for better. Now I just have to tap A LOT of M4 and 1/4" holes.
daaaaaang, these are sexy!
Basically ALL parts that need to be milled are done now. I just hope I did not forget something or screw things up

[Brodholm]

Also some more video action for you!

 

psst, watch in 4K if you have a capable monitor!
 

 

[karolll95]

Awesome work!  

[MadG4mer]

Really nice looking! Also what software(s) do you use for the 3d modeling? 

[Brodholm]

24 minutes ago, MadG4mer said:

Really nice looking! Also what software(s) do you use for the 3d modeling? 

I use autodesk Inventor

[oRAirwolf]

I just had to come and say how amazing this build is.  I have been wanting to learn CAD and do this myself, but I am too lazy.  I have never been able to find a PC case that met my standards for build quality.  The Zalman GT1000 is the closest I have ever come.  I think yours will be that gold standard by which all future cases will be judged.  You have my respect, sir.

[Brodholm]

On 2017-02-28 at 4:54 AM, oRAirwolf said:

I just had to come and say how amazing this build is.  I have been wanting to learn CAD and do this myself, but I am too lazy.  I have never been able to find a PC case that met my standards for build quality.  The Zalman GT1000 is the closest I have ever come.  I think yours will be that gold standard by which all future cases will be judged.  You have my respect, sir.

Thanks for the kind words and get un-lazy and get to it!  

[Brodholm]

Time to put everything back together and see if it fits again!

All the parts from the anodization. Not cleaned 100% yet but it looks very good and even!

I thought that I would start at the bottom. Fastening the rubber. Ended up using contact glue. Tried a lot of glues and this was the one the came out on top.

Lets start by roughing up one side of the neoprene rubber.

This is how the side looks before sand paper

And after

Same thing here, this is a very smooth surface and it is hard for the glue to stick to it.

After a few minutes of sanding. This is kinda hard to sand since sand paper is made from aluminium oxide and when you are sanding anodized aluminium you are sanding something that is about as hard as the sand paper basically. But you can quite easily scratch it.

Contact glue on both surfaces. Wait until you can touch it with your hands and its "dry". Usually takes about 5-10 mins depending on layer thickness.

Make sure you position it right the first time, there is no taking it of when you put it down. Then it is stuck there good and you will have a HUGE mess if you try and remove it.

Done! Turned out great. Really nice to have a solid base for the case that will reduce noise and make it stay in place much better.

After that it was time to glue the neodymium magnets. I used loctite 638 for this and when this have dried it is in there really good.

Here you can see two magnets in place for the button assembly. I did all the rest of the magnets the same way. No more pictures of that though. This glue is really nasty smelling and not nice for your skin, so I used gloves and did not want to get any on the camera sooooo.... You get the procedure

Time to try to mount some acrylic case pieces. This is the mid section of the "light box". A 10mm thick acrylic piece with carved lines.

Here you can see the patterns. Just lightly scratched with a V-bit in the CNC.

This pattern "catches" the light that you put in from the sides. And Illuminates more even on the surface.

You want a reflector to enhance the light. This is the base.

Adhesive chrome/silver tape stuff I got from a hobby store.

Cut it out with a exacto knife.

There we go! Just need to test it with some leds!

Put on the front and I am really pleased so far!

Getting really excited!

Put on the translucent white plexi

Here it is with the leds! The protective film is still on but you get the idea, a clean even white surface that illuminates the inside of the case.

Okay this got me really excited. DAMN worked out even better than I thought. Just a hasty mount and tried it out. Have not even polished the acrylic yet. Just powering each node of the led strip here with a 12v input. So I can only do R, G and B separate. But still gives you an idea of how it will look!

That is all for now, next up will be the bottom compartment and cable management for fans and leds.

[Brodholm]

Have anyone here tried to polish/buff the inner housing of D5 pumps. It is a bit dull and I would like it shiny. From what I can tell it is just plain stainless steel? So I should just be able to buff it with a cloth and some autosol?

This is the part of the pump I would like to polish:

[W-L]

1 hour ago, Brodholm said:

Have anyone here tried to polish/buff the inner housing of D5 pumps. It is a bit dull and I would like it shiny. From what I can tell it is just plain stainless steel? So I should just be able to buff it with a cloth and some autosol?

This is the part of the pump I would like to polish:

It's just standard stainless so I don't see any issues with polishing it, however you want to protect the ceramic bearing from any abrasives in the polishing paste and ensure everything is well cleaned off afterwards.

[Brodholm]

46 minutes ago, W-L said:

It's just standard stainless so I don't see any issues with polishing it, however you want to protect the ceramic bearing from any abrasives in the polishing paste and ensure everything is well cleaned off afterwards.

Yep, will only polish the parts that show. My thought was to take a microfibre cloth and use that, and then clean everything with some soap and let it dry!

[Brodholm]

Doing the bottom compartment as far as I can right now.

This is the fan I had to do some modifications on for the water cooling to be able to fit without it being to tight.

Mounting fans and trying to figure out how to do all this the best way.

Decided to mount it as it is supposed to be so I can get a better idea.

I did not want to sleeve the fans. I did that the last time and it was bothersome and did not really add to the aesthetics. And here they will not ever show. Non sleeved cables can look much better than sleeved in some cases and also have much smaller footprint.

Mounted the PSU.

Decided to keep the full lengths of the fans and do a neat splitter with some clean cable routing. Making it easy to replace a fan IF there is a malfunction or anything like that.

Designed a simple fan splitter on a board.

Some soldering later

Hot glue is the solution to a lot of things

Isolated and protected.

Just some cleaning up with an exacto knife and we are good to go.

Put them on the fan with some hot glue. Really sticks well and you should still be able to pry it away if needed.

Did the cables in this neat row. I really like the cables that comes with these fans. Flat wire is really good when it comes to management.

Really pleased with how it turned out. Really neat, took some time though

Drain port that is easily accessible in the front. Rotating fittings make it easy to point downwards or outwards and drain fluids when needed. Also put a inline temp sensor to monitor the water temperature.

Nice and neat, just the way I like it!

Mounted the leds! The red wire is gone from the leds, even if it does not show it bothered me later so I switched that one to a black also.

Mounted the magnetic fan filters from demcifilter. They are really neat and you can order them to custom sizes and shapes.

Really easy to remove and clean.

Now it is time to progress to the next compartment before I can finish up the bottom.

Mounted the motherboard plate and IO parts.

Put in the pump covers and the RGB leds that will light the acrylic line that goes around the pump back.

Did not plan on this RGB part. But when the foot looked that nice I really wanted to expand on that. Tested with this and it looked amazing. I like the RGB-thing going on right now. But the most important thing for me is that it is balanced. And that you can turn it off when ever you want to. That is really important.

The translucent plexiglas is mounted and I have removed the protective film. It looks really clean and nice in my opinion and I am glad I went with this type of design instead of a regular plain mid section in aluminium.

Played around and mounted "tree" to see how it will look and I am really really please with how balanced this is (for me at least). BUT, I am getting myself ahead quite a bit. Next up is no small task, sleeving...
 

[KrMaH]

Damn this is sexy!

[Marine_Boy]

OMG this is Epic!