Any Sub zero cooling systems under $415

[Bajantechnician]

30 minutes ago, W-L said:

There isn't really a low cost way of going sub zero other than say if you were to have cold winters but then there are problems with condensation as with any sub zero cooling. You can potentially go a peliter unit but it needs to be double the amount(wattage) of the heat generated by the component which make it highly inefficient.

 

As suggested to most effective would probably be is to part out a window AC unit.

 

If your just wanting slightly lower temps going with something like a custom loop can be more effective due to the larger amount of rads you can install.

i want to do do subzero though.

so if a 5960x is 140tdp and you said double the peltier tdp, so 280.

also, since the kraken x61 can not cool a 200+ watt object, its not feasable right?

 

[Bajantechnician]

1 hour ago, W-L said:

There isn't really a low cost way of going sub zero other than say if you were to have cold winters but then there are problems with condensation as with any sub zero cooling. You can potentially go a peliter unit but it needs to be double the amount(wattage) of the heat generated by the component which make it highly inefficient.

 

As suggested to most effective would probably be is to part out a window AC unit.

 

If your just wanting slightly lower temps going with something like a custom loop can be more effective due to the larger amount of rads you can install.

ok,so looking on craigslist what are some ac units that can cool a 5960x at load to below 0/ 0?

Thanks

[W-L]

22 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

i want to do do subzero though.

so if a 5960x is 140tdp and you said double the peltier tdp, so 280.

also, since the kraken x61 can not cool a 200+ watt object, its not feasable right?

 

Well it's not that it can't do more than that but it will require high rpm fans which can be very noisy. If you were to strap on a 300W politer you can't run it at full 300 W it has a sweet spot, if it was one full power the heat generated will overpower the cold side making it not as cold. You may be wanting something like a 400W peltier running at 80% for example to get the coldest temps from it.

 

There is also the issues with condensation going sub ambient and insulation required to do all of this. 

[Bajantechnician]

1 hour ago, W-L said:

Well it's not that it can't do more than that but it will require high rpm fans which can be very noisy. If you were to strap on a 300W politer you can't run it at full 300 W it has a sweet spot, if it was one full power the heat generated will overpower the cold side making it not as cold. You may be wanting something like a 400W peltier running at 80% for example to get the coldest temps from it.

 

There is also the issues with condensation going sub ambient and insulation required to do all of this. 

So would a 400 watt Peltier draw 800 watts due to the ineffeciency, or is it already accounted for and it's 

 

I have corsair sp140 fans in pull. I can set it in push pull if needed

 

So if I get like a 400 watt Peltier, I should run it at something lower? 

Also, I'm cosdiering of getting a thing to put in a drive bay that controls the wattage/voltage of the Peltier to keep it maybe at 1℉, so it doesn't condense..

 

Not sure if I want 1℉ or below right now. If I deside to go below. I can buy some kneeded eraser and neoprene 

[W-L]

1 hour ago, Bajantechnician said:

-SNIP-

It will be 400W if it's a a capable unit, but as for condensation once your drop below ambient temps and go into 0C it will start to condensate and build frost. You'll want to insulate as said with the kneed-able eraser and neoprene. If you want to guarantee things even more confomal coating the PCB is the next step up to give it extra resistance to moisture.

[Bajantechnician]

35 minutes ago, W-L said:

It will be 400W if it's a a capable unit, but as for condensation once your drop below ambient temps and go into 0C it will start to condensate and build frost. You'll want to insulate as said with the kneed-able eraser and neoprene. If you want to guarantee things even more confomal coating the PCB is the next step up to give it extra resistance to moisture.

Where can I get a 400w Peltier? 

Also the kraken x61 can cool the Peltier with dual sp140 fans, (quad if necessary) and this means I do need it don't need a few control unit .

 

Also, also, yeah, I will get silicone grease as well. And vasaimline or something to out in the sicket

[Bajantechnician]

49 minutes ago, W-L said:

It will be 400W if it's a a capable unit, but as for condensation once your drop below ambient temps and go into 0C it will start to condensate and build frost. You'll want to insulate as said with the kneed-able eraser and neoprene. If you want to guarantee things even more confomal coating the PCB is the next step up to give it extra resistance to moisture.

Also, what a the max wattage Peltier that the kraken x61 can effectively cool

[W-L]

10 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

Where can I get a 400w Peltier? 

Also the kraken x61 can cool the Peltier with dual sp140 fans, (quad if necessary) and this means I do need it don't need a few control unit .

Also, also, yeah, I will get silicone grease as well. And vasaimline or something to out in the sicket

Other than Ebay I wouldn't really know of a very reputable source for Peliter units, just as a though other than doing the direct contact method you can run a hot and cold loop wateroooling loop which does work to a degree but not sub zero only sub ambient. That doesn't have as many issues with condensation cause it is quite a large task once things go sub ambient. 

For the X61 I wouldn't know exactly, since it solely depends on the fans as said, you if you were to push it to the absolute max with delta or GT 3K fans it can do alteast a few hundred watts of cooling but at the expensive of a lot of noise. This might be something to read into:

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/the-watercooling-guide-from-a-to-z.180876/

[Bajantechnician]

9 minutes ago, W-L said:

Other than Ebay I wouldn't really know of a very reputable source for Peliter units, just as a though other than doing the direct contact method you can run a hot and cold loop wateroooling loop which does work to a degree but not sub zero only sub ambient. That doesn't have as many issues with condensation cause it is quite a large task once things go sub ambient. 

For the X61 I wouldn't know exactly, since it solely depends on the fans as said, you if you were to push it to the absolute max with delta or GT 3K fans it can do alteast a few hundred watts of cooling but at the expensive of a lot of noise. This might be something to read into:

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/the-watercooling-guide-from-a-to-z.180876/

Ahh. 

Thanks. So a kraken x61 would be able to cool a 500 watt Peltier I'm assuming?

 

Also, hot and cold loop?

[W-L]

37 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

Where can I get a 400w Peltier? 

Also the kraken x61 can cool the Peltier with dual sp140 fans, (quad if necessary) and this means I do need it don't need a few control unit .

Also, also, yeah, I will get silicone grease as well. And vasaimline or something to out in the sicket

I woudl leave it at a conservative 350-400W max but that is with fans running at 3K RPM I'm pretty sure you wouldn't want that though. 

As for a hot and cold loop it was done as a proof of concept on the forums where they instead did a cold loop and used a heatsink for the hot side, works fairly well if I remember and did keep condensation down, with insulated tubes it would be even better:

 

 

[Bajantechnician]

3 minutes ago, W-L said:

I woudl leave it at a conservative 350-400W max but that is with fans running at 3K RPM I'm pretty sure you wouldn't want that though. 

As for a hot and cold loop it was done as a proof of concept on the forums where they instead did a cold loop and used a heatsink for the hot side, works fairly well if I remember and did keep condensation down, with insulated tubes it would be even better:

 

 

I see. 

 

Could you reword the 3k rpm, 300-400 watt part. 

 

Thanks

[W-L]

Just now, Bajantechnician said:

I see. 

Could you reword the 3k rpm, 300-400 watt part. 

Rhanks

To get that much cooling for a 280mm rad, 300-400 watts, the fans will need to run at 3000RPM to do so. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't want to be doing that since the noise would be overpowering is what I'm trying to point out.

[Bajantechnician]

2 minutes ago, W-L said:

To get that much cooling for a 280mm rad, 300-400 watts, the fans will need to run at 3000RPM to do so. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't want to be doing that since the noise would be overpowering is what I'm trying to point out.

Ahh. I see.

So it is possible with my current setup then with. 400 watt that's being temp controlled?

[W-L]

Just now, Bajantechnician said:

Ahh. I see.

So it is possible with my current setup then with. 400 watt that's being temp controlled?

For something like this I would be looking into multiple large rads like 360-480mm ones or 140mm version of it if you want sub ambient and have it silent, it would be very difficult for the X61 to keep the hot side cold enough if it was to do it quietly. 

 

Custom blocks like this did exist like this unit from swiftech which built everything into a single CPU block:

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/swiftech_mcw6500t/

[Bajantechnician]

17 minutes ago, W-L said:

For something like this I would be looking into multiple large rads like 360-480mm ones or 140mm version of it if you want sub ambient and have it silent, it would be very difficult for the X61 to keep the hot side cold enough if it was to do it quietly. 

 

Custom blocks like this did exist like this unit from swiftech which built everything into a single CPU block:

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/swiftech_mcw6500t/

so short answer...,

no?, as of right now?

 

(excluding jet engine noise)

Thanks

[Bajantechnician]

6 hours ago, Benji_w said:

 

 

 

8 hours ago, W-L said:

For something like this I would be looking into multiple large rads like 360-480mm ones or 140mm version of it if you want sub ambient and have it silent, it would be very difficult for the X61 to keep the hot side cold enough if it was to do it quietly. 

 

Custom blocks like this did exist like this unit from swiftech which built everything into a single CPU block:

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/swiftech_mcw6500t/

So if I do cannibalize a acunot, how powerful should it be go get sub zero temps? 10000btu? 20000btu? Also, what parts should I need to salvage from it?

 

Thanks

[BenjaminC]

On 3/1/2016 at 0:42 AM, Bajantechnician said:

i mean i havea  1500 watt psu.

as long as it gets the job done.

You're going to need a second one just to run the peltiers, in addition to something beefy to cool the hot sides, like three NH-D15s or Silver Arrow IB-Es. You're looking at $500+three water blocks before you can even plumb the peltiers into your water loop, which you're going to have to have since single peltiers aren't strong enough to mount directly to the CPU anymore.

[Bajantechnician]

6 hours ago, BenjaminC said:

You're going to need a second one just to run the peltiers, in addition to something beefy to cool the hot sides, like three NH-D15s or Silver Arrow IB-Es. You're looking at $500+three water blocks before you can even plumb the peltiers into your water loop, which you're going to have to have since single peltiers aren't strong enough to mount directly to the CPU anymore.

Ahh.

I see.

so a sinle peltier can not actually directly vool a 5960x.

i can do it only indirectly/

 

So if I do cannibalize a ac unit, how powerful should it be go get sub zero temps? 10000btu? 20000btu? Also, what parts should I need to salvage from it?

[W-L]

8 hours ago, Bajantechnician said:

 

So if I do cannibalize a acunot, how powerful should it be go get sub zero temps? 10000btu? 20000btu? Also, what parts should I need to salvage from it?

Thanks

That I'm not too sure about I assume larger the more cooling potential, however I'm not totally sure of that yield lowered temps. 

[Bajantechnician]

47 minutes ago, W-L said:

That I'm not too sure about I assume larger the more cooling potential, however I'm not totally sure of that yield lowered temps. 

Ahh. I see 

So no way for sub zero for $415?

[harrynowl]

12 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

Ahh. I see 

So no way for sub zero for $415?

Nope. Not 24/7.

 

 

[W-L]

22 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

Ahh. I see 

So no way for sub zero for $415?

Not very easily for 24 hours operation, a modified used window AC unit would be your best bet though. For occasional sub zero cooing or overclocking, a pot or vessel with dry ice and acetone or isopropyl would be a cheap solution as suggested previously.

[Benji_w]

9 hours ago, BenjaminC said:

You're going to need a second one just to run the peltiers, in addition to something beefy to cool the hot sides, like three NH-D15s or Silver Arrow IB-Es. You're looking at $500+three water blocks before you can even plumb the peltiers into your water loop, which you're going to have to have since single peltiers aren't strong enough to mount directly to the CPU anymore.

The video I linked has one peltier mounted directly to the CPU so I'm not so sure why you think he would need several? the board used is a gigabyte SOC so it's either the Z87 or Z97 board which will have either a hotter CPU in it compared to what we have now.

[Bajantechnician]

1 minute ago, Benji_w said:

The video I linked has one peltier mounted directly to the CPU so I'm not so sure why you think he would need several? the board used is a gigabyte SOC so it's either the Z87 or Z97 board which will have either a hotter CPU in it compared to what we have now.

So I can do it?...

[Benji_w]

Just now, Bajantechnician said:

So I can do it?...

I suggest seeking help over on overclock.net, they have an exotic cooling section with heaps of information to read through, members there aren't as active but the info you will get will be a lot more informative and accurate.