Jump to content

Would it be difficult to fit a custom loop in my case, and what exactly would I need for it?

I want to fit a custom loop in my case but my hardware is already a pretty tight fit and im also not sure exactly what id need as I have not done custom water cooling before.

 

I need it to have this:

both cpu and gpu in the loop (tuned 14900KF, 200W full load, 80-100w gaming average, 45w idle, and stock msi 4090 gaming x trio, 200-400W depending on the game, 76w idle, rarely have i seen it go near the 450w tdp)

thick 360mm rad (already using phanteks t30 fans)

standard pump/res combo, this is the part im not sure id be able to fit as you will see with the photo i took. Putting a waterblock on the gpu makes it way smaller which i think may be required for this.

soft tubing

no rgb components

 

This is some of what id want to use, res, fluid, and tubing I have no idea about.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-magnitude-1700-full-nickel

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-surface-x360m-black

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector2-trio-rtx-4090-d-rgb-nickel-plexi

gpu block has rgb but im assuming I can just leave it unplugged right?

 

I also plan to use this watercooling hardware with future upgrades, like when upgrade to intel 15th or ryzen 9000 i want to keep everything and just switch the cpu block (I may actually wait for this cause the lga 1700 block is expensive and I don't want to have to replace it right away unless maybe im lucky and next gen mounting is the same). Same with gpu but ill probably skip 50 series as my 4090 is already fast enough for what I do, cpu though I always upgrade.

 

case: phanteks P400A black non RGB version

IMG_0921.thumb.png.f72270d438dfeccfb4cac65440fb594c.png

And also yes I know my pc is overdue for some cleaning so don't judge the dust on top of my card and psu basement.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

well if you just want the gpu to run cooler then just reverse the fan setup you currently have so the rad isn't blowing hot air onto the gpu and blows it out the front. visually it won't look any different but the gpu will actually run way cooler

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, emosun said:

well if you just want the gpu to run cooler then just reverse the fan setup you currently have so the rad isn't blowing hot air onto the gpu and blows it out the front. visually it won't look any different but the gpu will actually run way cooler

This makes no sense, if i reverse the fan setup id only have 1 intake and 3 exhausts which is bad for dust and also especially bad since the rear fan does not have dust filtering.
Besides its the cpu im worried about running at 90c+ under super heavy workloads, potentially limiting max oc and also lifespan among other things. Gpu is fine at 75c max, I just want the block to make the card smaller so maybe I could fit the pump/res there.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can't be serious. Waste of cash, time and effort in this particular case. Keep that as it is, cause you're telling me you basically want the first picture to the second picture.
 

WC.jpg
 

IMG20220602194121[816].jpg

Edited by Motifator
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, rippy4500 said:

Besides its the cpu im worried about running at 90c+ under super heavy workloads, potentially limiting max oc and also lifespan among other things.

so while the cpu is overheating you're overclocking it and I'm assuming not running the fans at 100% speed...

Not sure how to tell you that making a custom loop then proceeding to run it exactly the same way that you currently run your AIO won't changes the temps. If you got to blow a bunch of money to find that out then that's what you gotta do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Motifator said:

You can't be serious. Waste of cash, time and effort in this particular case. Keep that as it is, cause you're telling me you basically want the first picture to the second picture.

WC.jpg

IMG20220602194121[816].jpg

Im upgrading for the performance mostly, not the looks. Although I guess for what im spending I kinda expect good looks too. Im making this post asking about my case so if you know what case I should get so that it can 1: be easier to build in and 2: look better then im open to suggestions.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are all my personal gear btw, I've got a LF2 360 up top of some box here to my right... you're not improving significant levels of performance, or even looks. This is a clown argument honestly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Motifator said:

Those are all my personal gear btw, I've got a LF2 360 up top of some box here to my right... you're not improving significant levels of performance, or even looks. This is a clown argument honestly.

I could do direct die and liquid metal, which I know custom loop is a prerequisite and does actually significantly improve temps.

 

I know my case is dookie for all this, that is why I made this post asking what I need to do/get.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I went down that route too.. I murdered a 7820X and trashed it. Don't ask how.

You have nothing to gain.

Find a different hobby, the season is opening, grab a bicycle or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, rippy4500 said:

I know my case is dookie for all this, that is why I made this post asking what I need to do/get.

increasing the fan speed and lowering the room temp by turning on the AC will actually lower temps. buying more expensive water cooling equipment while running the fans too slow and blowing hot air through the rad won't do a single thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, emosun said:

increasing the fan speed and lowering the room temp by turning on the AC will actually lower temps. buying more expensive water cooling equipment while running the fans too slow and blowing hot air through the rad won't do a single thing.

First of all, 90c+ is normal for a 14900k and that is at like maximum 100% load which isn't common. The temps are in the 60s while gaming usually and only 40c idle. But if I do something heavy that does max it out for an extended period of time, I don't want it running that high. Id have to crank my fans and make them sound like a jet engine to make it run cooler, they're already at the maximum speed id still consider quiet. And also my ambient temperature is already quite low usually.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Motifator said:

I went down that route too.. I murdered a 7820X and trashed it. Don't ask how.

There are guides on how I can do it properly or with less risk and if I follow that guide absolutely perfectly and carefully ill probably be fine, and also the process for a 14900k would probably be much different than a 7820X. I can practice doing it on a cheap used celeron or something as well to improve my chances.

22 minutes ago, Motifator said:

You have nothing to gain.

The temp difference is much more significant than anything else I could do.

And also I probably will change the case as well.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You're here telling us all these on a Razer keyboard? Come on, this is like the most chill forum out there. If you did this on Discord, you'd be laughing stock material.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Motifator said:

You're here telling us all these on a Razer keyboard? Come on, this is like the most chill forum out there. If you did this on Discord, you'd be laughing stock material.

You should not judge products based on brand and you also shouldn't judge people just cause they use a brand you don't like. I did not consider the brand to be an issue when buying it because I buy products based on how good they are in terms of functionality, nothing else. This keyboard felt like it had a higher build quality and the input delay was noticeably lower than the older but still high end corsair keyboard I was using previously, just so you know.

15 minutes ago, Motifator said:

this is like the most chill forum out there.

You're definetly not showing me that.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, rippy4500 said:

You should not judge products based on brand and you also shouldn't judge people just cause they use a brand you don't like. I did not consider the brand to be an issue when buying it because I buy products based on how good they are in terms of functionality, nothing else. This keyboard felt like it had a higher build quality and the input delay was noticeably lower than the older but still high end corsair keyboard I was using previously, just so you know.

You're definetly not showing me that.


You'd be correct. I've had a lot better days on this forum, and I might have offended you in some way.

But it was my legit opinion.

Take it with a grain of salt or a Mack Anthem with vegatables full of 25 tons. Just by reading your signature, I can tell you could use a keyboard upgrade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Motifator said:


You'd be correct. I've had a lot better days on this forum, and I might have offended you in some way.

But it was my legit opinion.

Take it with a grain of salt or a Mack Anthem with vegatables full of 25 tons. Just by reading your signature, I can tell you could use a keyboard upgrade.

I could go for a custom one but they are expensive and to be honest I don't care enough right now, nor do I know how to get one with the specs I want. 

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rippy4500 said:

This makes no sense, if i reverse the fan setup id only have 1 intake and 3 exhausts which is bad for dust and also especially bad since the rear fan does not have dust filtering.
Besides its the cpu im worried about running at 90c+ under super heavy workloads, potentially limiting max oc and also lifespan among other things. Gpu is fine at 75c max, I just want the block to make the card smaller so maybe I could fit the pump/res there.

Not necessarily, I run such a setup cause my rig is in a niche under my desk

I've added a dust filter to the rear (it costs like $3), put top fans on intake, and use a fast BQ SW Pro 4 on rear intake 

 

But in your case I'd just get a better and bigger case, one allowing your rad to be mounted top (exhaust), and with bottom intake fans to help your GPU  

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

But in your case I'd just get a better and bigger case, one allowing your rad to be mounted top (exhaust), and with bottom intake fans to help your GPU  

Maybe a lian li O11 dynamic?

 

Cause then I can have 3 intakes on bottom, 3 exhausts on top, and the rad on the back with fans as an intake.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, rippy4500 said:

Maybe a lian li O11 dynamic?

 

Cause then I can have 3 intakes on bottom, 3 exhausts on top, and the rad on the back with fans as an intake.

Rad will be better with exhaust fans so as to not send hot air inside, but case is nice indeed

 

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, PDifolco said:

Rad will be better with exhaust fans so as to not send hot air inside, but case is nice indeed

 

Okay that actually made me realize what you're saying.

Would you say 3 intakes on bottom, 360mm rad on top with fans as exhaust would be good? Not sure what to do with the back 3 fans, maybe just add a 2nd 360mm rad.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, rippy4500 said:

Okay that actually made me realize what you're saying.

Would you say 3 intakes on bottom, 360mm rad on top with fans as exhaust would be good? Not sure what to do with the back 3 fans, maybe just add a 2nd 360mm rad.

Yes that would work, with bottom fans running faster to reduce negative pressure

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, rippy4500 said:

Okay that actually made me realize what you're saying.

Would you say 3 intakes on bottom, 360mm rad on top with fans as exhaust would be good? Not sure what to do with the back 3 fans, maybe just add a 2nd 360mm rad.

ur at 90c on ur cpu? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't be bothered by the nay sayers.

 

I would suggest that you clarify what a good looking case looks like because, frankly, the cases I find visually appealing are shyte to build in.

 

If you want better performance, get a case made for performance. If you're not going to be tinkering in it routinely like I do, you don't actually need something that's easy to build in, unless you have a large budget. If you want modular, the InWin ModFree is probably your best bet. If you want better airflow, get a chimney case (i.e. the airflow goes in at the bottom and out the top, and be strategic about the fans you choose and where you put them. Got tons of money? The Silverstone Alta F2 has that flow and is optimized for it... for $1,000.

 

No matter what case, be wise about fan choice. If noise is a concern, get a case that holds larger fans because they move more air with less noise, or else you can add extra fans to spread the load and, thus, have less overall noise. Remember, though, that if your CPU gets hot enough often enough, you're still going to get noise, so bigger fans.

 

For an AIO, find an optimal design, with a big rad, a powerful pump and great fans (or swap the fans for those with much better specs). The Arctic LF3 has weak fans so buy the 280 or 420 and swap the fans to get more power. Unfortunately, the rad and pump aren't optimal, so you'll lose out there, but it's still one of the best new AIOs other than the DC Mystique, SS IceMyst and a few others. 

 

There are trade-offs no matter what you do, though, so if you're noise intolerant, you're going to struggle to get the best performance without a well-designed system, which might be a custom loop.  If you're not a loop design expert, you'll have to find people who are that aren't going to nay say you. 

 

Another thing to look at is have an A/C blowing directly into your intake via ducting or a tube. You could also go monster with a car radiator - but not the stupid crap Linus does for views!

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

We don't watch Linus for the show, but the content. Sorry but you're not getting a pass on this one.

$1000? Are you shilling us or what? I can guarantee you buy a $1000 boutique guitar, it will turn back its level of cash in no time.

A guitar is not even the best investment. WC gear to this guy? It will be antique skates of the dopest fresh memes in the same period of time. They'll release a new socket in 2 years and all that money will go to waste. Basically.

Don't tell me to re-use pumps, blocks, whatever.

If you want to waste $1000 for nothing, sure. Otherwise, be my guest and learn how to finance your money on cooler toys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

Don't be bothered by the nay sayers.

 

I would suggest that you clarify what a good looking case looks like because, frankly, the cases I find visually appealing are shyte to build in.

 

If you want better performance, get a case made for performance. If you're not going to be tinkering in it routinely like I do, you don't actually need something that's easy to build in, unless you have a large budget. If you want modular, the InWin ModFree is probably your best bet. If you want better airflow, get a chimney case (i.e. the airflow goes in at the bottom and out the top, and be strategic about the fans you choose and where you put them. Got tons of money? The Silverstone Alta F2 has that flow and is optimized for it... for $1,000.

 

No matter what case, be wise about fan choice. If noise is a concern, get a case that holds larger fans because they move more air with less noise, or else you can add extra fans to spread the load and, thus, have less overall noise. Remember, though, that if your CPU gets hot enough often enough, you're still going to get noise, so bigger fans.

 

For an AIO, find an optimal design, with a big rad, a powerful pump and great fans (or swap the fans for those with much better specs). The Arctic LF3 has weak fans so buy the 280 or 420 and swap the fans to get more power. Unfortunately, the rad and pump aren't optimal, so you'll lose out there, but it's still one of the best new AIOs other than the DC Mystique, SS IceMyst and a few others. 

 

There are trade-offs no matter what you do, though, so if you're noise intolerant, you're going to struggle to get the best performance without a well-designed system, which might be a custom loop.  If you're not a loop design expert, you'll have to find people who are that aren't going to nay say you. 

 

Another thing to look at is have an A/C blowing directly into your intake via ducting or a tube. You could also go monster with a car radiator - but not the stupid crap Linus does for views!

$1K for a case seems just a tiny bit illogical. The InWin ModFree looks alot more normal and also kinda interesting.


I think I have to go custom loop to get exactly what I want without compromise. Not gonna do the ghetto stuff like hooking AC to my pc though.

 

The modfree says it can do 3x140mm in the front and also another on top which would be a 420mm rad so I can get 2x of those if I wanna go all out. That would probably be more than enough.

PC Specifications: Intel i9-14900KF, 5.9GHz all core locked, 5GHz ring, 1.45v Medium LLC, E-cores and HT disabled | MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio | Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Thermal Grizzly contact frame | 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z5 7400MHz 34-44-44-34 1T 1.45v (Tuned Subtimings, Hynix A-Die) | Gigabyte Z790 AORUS Elite AX | Windows 10 Home 64-Bit EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 Phanteks P400A (Black non-rgb version, Phanteks T30 fans 3 intake (On AIO), 1 exhaust) | SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIE 4.0 (Boot drive), Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SATA

 

Displays: MSI MAG 271QPX 1440p 360Hz 27" QD-OLED | LG UltraGear 27GP950-B, 4K 144Hz (@120hz) 27" IPS

 

Desktop Audio: STAX SR-007 MK2 Electrostatic Headphones | STAX SRM-400S Amp | Schiit Bifrost 2/64 (NOS mode, USB in, XLR out)

 

Mobile Audio: Sennheiser IE 900 IEMs using included 4.4mm cable | FiiO KA13 "Desktop mode" Disabled

 

Peripherals: Razer Huntsman V2 Full size wired with linear optical switch | Logitech G502 Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×