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RTX 4070 running in x8 PCIE lanes 4.0 mode

Coffee2Go

Hey guys, 

 

So i've looked for help everywhere and no one seems to figure out what the issue is except few people who confirm that it has been an issue for quite a few people.

 

So long story short my pc build is fairly new ive been using it for about a week with a new gpu which is a Gigabyte RTX 4070 (the card is stated to be x16 4.0)

 

My pc specs go as follow

GPU: RTX 4070 Eagle V2 OC (brand new)

CPU: 7800x3d (brand new)

RAM: 32 GB DDR5 (G.skill trident Z5 neo RGB 6000mhzCl30)

MOBO: B650 MSI TOMAHAWK WIFI

PSU: Corsair RM1000e

BIOS: Latest beta

OS: Win 11 pro

Storage: 2x NVME's, one main OS one is running top m2 slot, the second one is in the third m2 slot which is powered by chipset

 

I have tried pretty much every possible solution by switching up the m.2s around and even only using only one m.2 for my OS.

 

The card is stuck at x8 pcie mode and wont run x16.

 

I know that the performance loss is about 2-3% but can scale in some tasks.

 

Its a bit unfair considering ive paid for the setup to give me top peak performance.

 

And also im ocassionaly experiencing white VGA light which states its a gpu failure but i can somehow fix it by unplugging displayport (also hdmi) out of the gpu and let the pc go trough boot seq and boot to OS before plugging in the cable back in and then the pc works up until the very next reboot.

 

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56 minutes ago, Coffee2Go said:

GPU: RTX 4070 Eagle V2 OC (brand new)

MOBO: B650 MSI TOMAHAWK WIFI

Storage: 2x NVME's, one main OS one is running top m2 slot, the second one is in the third m2 slot which is powered by chipset

 

I have tried pretty much every possible solution by switching up the m.2s around and even only using only one m.2 for my OS.

 

The card is stuck at x8 pcie mode and wont run x16.

 

And also im ocassionaly experiencing white VGA light which states its a gpu failure but i can somehow fix it by unplugging displayport (also hdmi) out of the gpu and let the pc go trough boot seq and boot to OS before plugging in the cable back in and then the pc works up until the very next reboot.

Well, reading your mobo manual, PCI_E1 dosn't share bandwidth with any of the PCIe slots or M.2 slots, so the issue isn't the placement of the M.2s or the includsion of other PCIe cards. Also, I can safely assume you do have the GPU in the top slot cause the other slots are only wired for x2 and x1.

 

The VGA light suggests a deeper issue. But to start have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling the GPU?

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

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Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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1 minute ago, will0hlep said:

Well, reading your mobo manual, PCI_E1 dosn't share bandwidth with any of the PCIe slots or M.2 slots, so the issue isn't the placement of the M.2s or the includsion of other PCIe cards. Also, I can safely assume you do have the GPU in the top slot cause the other slots are only wired for x2 and x1.

 

The VGA light suggests a deeper issue. But to start have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling the GPU?

Yep, its installed in that silver armored pcie_e1 slot that is closest to the cpu, i tried reseating the gpu, cleaning the pins with isoprophyl alcohol and making sure there is no dust inside, as far as i can see with my human eye basically and zooming in with my phone camera the pins on the gpu look alright and the inside of pcie slot is also alright.

Also keep in mind for anyone reading this, i already switched two motherboards to fix this issue and still it persists across the new boards b650 chipset.

Same issue with display saying no signal and white/red vga light when monitor cables are plugged in and also my steelseries headset DAC thingy. 
So right now i seemed to have "fixed it" by letting my cables be inside except my headset. 

I tried DDU three times as well 

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3 minutes ago, Coffee2Go said:

Yep, its installed in that silver armored pcie_e1 slot that is closest to the cpu, i tried reseating the gpu, cleaning the pins with isoprophyl alcohol and making sure there is no dust inside, as far as i can see with my human eye basically and zooming in with my phone camera the pins on the gpu look alright and the inside of pcie slot is also alright.

Also keep in mind for anyone reading this, i already switched two motherboards to fix this issue and still it persists across the new boards b650 chipset.

Same issue with display saying no signal and white/red vga light when monitor cables are plugged in and also my steelseries headset DAC thingy. 
So right now i seemed to have "fixed it" by letting my cables be inside except my headset. 

I tried DDU three times as well 

If you've tried multiple motherboards then I'm almost completely confident that the GPU is defective and it isn't a software issue, return it as fast as you can

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

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Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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1 minute ago, will0hlep said:

If you've tried multiple motherboards then I'm almost completely confident that the GPU is defective and it isn't a software issue, return it as fast as you can

When the pc decides to boot the whole pc just works fine, i did timespy and furmark and all kinds of 3dmark benchmark tests and in games, it shows no artifacting.
Unless the card is half DOA? any other way to see if its actually gpu issue?

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1 minute ago, Coffee2Go said:

When the pc decides to boot the whole pc just works fine, i did timespy and furmark and all kinds of 3dmark benchmark tests and in games, it shows no artifacting.
Unless the card is half DOA? any other way to see if its actually gpu issue?

Well, the normal test I'd do would be trying the gpu in another motherboard to see if the issue persisted. The issues continuing is pretty conclusive proof that this is a GPU issue. It could also just be two bad motherboards but that seems unlikely. One last thing you could check is tried reseating the CPU and checking for bent pins in the socket? But the most likely issue is a hardware fault with the GPU IMO.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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Just now, will0hlep said:

Well, the normal test I'd do would be trying the gpu in another motherboard to see if the issue persisted. The issues continuing is pretty conclusive proof that this is a GPU issue. It could also just be two bad motherboards but that seems unlikely. One last thing you could check is tried reseating the CPU and checking for bent pins in the socket? But the most likely issue is a hardware fault with the GPU IMO.

Yeah i reseated it this time a bit looser than before and its still there, IGPU works fine x16 4.0 mode and pc works fine without the gpu being inside

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7 minutes ago, Coffee2Go said:

Yeah i reseated it this time a bit looser than before and its still there, IGPU works fine x16 4.0 mode and pc works fine without the gpu being inside

I don't see another likely cause of the issue myself other than a defective GPU. Sorry I couldn't give you better news. Assuming it can be, you should return it for a refund or repairs.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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3 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

I don't see another likely cause of the issue myself other than a defective GPU. Sorry I couldn't give you better news. Assuming it can be, you should return it for a refund or repairs.

That sucks since the RMA request of Gigabyte is horrible and it does not want to confirm to send, i fill it out and its just there sitting there without any confirmation it got sent.

I bought the GPU over german site which aka i basically got it sent from country to country, the gpu is basically fully new, no bruising on boxes or inside or fried plastic etc

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try to take out your nvme's and check the pcie lanes given to your GPU then.  you can check that in bios after a reboot.. 

 

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8 hours ago, Robchil said:

 

try to take out your nvme's and check the pcie lanes given to your GPU then.  you can check that in bios after a reboot.. 

 

Wouldnt taking out them both not let me boot to bios or am i missing something.

 

Last time i tried to switch them up it kinda corrupted my windows when putting them back when attempting to try and see if i remove one from top slot would help and it didnt sadly

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1 hour ago, Coffee2Go said:

Wouldnt taking out them both not let me boot to bios or am i missing something.

 

Last time i tried to switch them up it kinda corrupted my windows when putting them back when attempting to try and see if i remove one from top slot would help and it didnt sadly

 

Getting into the BIOS does not require any storage device.

 

If the RTX 4070, along with the rest of the system is about one week old, just go through the retailer / e-tailer, and get it exchanged. Typically there is a 14-day or 30-day return/exchange policy before you have to go through the Manufacturer (i.e. Gigabyte)....at least here in the US / Canada.

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16 hours ago, Coffee2Go said:

I have tried pretty much every possible solution by switching up the m.2s around and even only using only one m.2 for my OS.

 

The card is stuck at x8 pcie mode and wont run x16.

 

I'd have to wonder if PCIE_E1 Lanes Configuration can be changed from Auto to x16. There's no bios manual out for that motherboard. Just what I can find of it in screenshots online.

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

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8 hours ago, IkeaGnome said:

I'd have to wonder if PCIE_E1 Lanes Configuration can be changed from Auto to x16. There's no bios manual out for that motherboard. Just what I can find of it in screenshots online.

Yeah i tried changing that setting but sadly its not recognizing it at all like x16 / x16 does not exist its only x8 by x8 

 

also i found the manual its under like support details in the bios section or something of the motherboard

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8 hours ago, -rascal- said:

 

Getting into the BIOS does not require any storage device.

 

If the RTX 4070, along with the rest of the system is about one week old, just go through the retailer / e-tailer, and get it exchanged. Typically there is a 14-day or 30-day return/exchange policy before you have to go through the Manufacturer (i.e. Gigabyte)....at least here in the US / Canada.

Well technically its been more than 2 weeks but since of actual usage its like a week old

 

due to shipping across countries its around 2 weeks ish

 

If i take out two nvmes does that corrupt my OS?

 

last time i tried it out and put them back in, it corrupted my windows and said please wait... and then it sorta did that everytime

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53 minutes ago, Coffee2Go said:

Well technically its been more than 2 weeks but since of actual usage its like a week old

 

due to shipping across countries its around 2 weeks ish

 

If i take out two nvmes does that corrupt my OS?

 

last time i tried it out and put them back in, it corrupted my windows and said please wait... and then it sorta did that everytime

turn off secure boot before you take them out .. depends on how you installed them realy.. but it's a fresh install. and you know what disk have the install?.  only have one disk installed when installing OS.. 

 

anyway it shouldn't break an install by taking out the disk and reboot to check if your gpu get's all 16 lanes then. 

 

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On 2/13/2024 at 11:22 AM, Robchil said:

turn off secure boot before you take them out .. depends on how you installed them realy.. but it's a fresh install. and you know what disk have the install?.  only have one disk installed when installing OS.. 

 

anyway it shouldn't break an install by taking out the disk and reboot to check if your gpu get's all 16 lanes then. 

 

Confirmed its GPU being flaw.

Guess its half DOA and it keeps going to x4 pcie and x8 not x16

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3 hours ago, Coffee2Go said:

Confirmed its GPU being flaw.

Guess its half DOA and it keeps going to x4 pcie and x8 not x16

well... now if you have another GPU... it needs to show all 16 lanes... if not i can be the mainboard.....  or cpu... 

or with your GPU. in hwinfo64 .. check what the PCIE LINK speed is under your GPU.. on mine it's last counter. 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Coffee2Go said:

Confirmed its GPU being flaw.

Guess its half DOA and it keeps going to x4 pcie and x8 not x16

how is it confirmed? 

 

are you actually checking while its under load? 

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28 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

how is it confirmed? 

 

are you actually checking while its under load? 

I taken two nvmes out of mobo and its still x8 and also dropped to x4 pcie lanes

then also white vga light kept turning on

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7 hours ago, Robchil said:

well... now if you have another GPU... it needs to show all 16 lanes... if not i can be the mainboard.....  or cpu... 

or with your GPU. in hwinfo64 .. check what the PCIE LINK speed is under your GPU.. on mine it's last counter. 

 

 

sadly same stuff as gpu z and also in nvidia info its showing x8

 

 

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1 minute ago, Coffee2Go said:

sadly same stuff as gpu z and also in nvidia info its showing x8

 

 

yeah.. a x16 pcie 4.0 should be at 32.. 

have you tested that gpu in another rig? 

 

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8 minutes ago, Robchil said:

yeah.. a x16 pcie 4.0 should be at 32.. 

have you tested that gpu in another rig? 

 

sadly no cant do since i moved to a new place far away from friends and family and got no extra rig to try it out.

 

but the weirdest symptom it shown was constant switch between x4 4.0 and x8 4.0 mode.

 

If it was x4 it would boot fast af like under 15 seconds.

No VGA light then but when i try to force it to be x8 again and reboot it few times to go x8 it would go really slow again and unstable

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