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CMOS battery drained after 4.5 years of regularly unplugging?

TGO

For the past 2 times I've booted my PC after unplugging it, my time in Windows has been incorrect. Been either several hours ahead or behind of current time. And today I got a BIOS error after booting(can't quite remember what it said, panicked a bit and booted into the UEFI). However, it disappeared and booted back to Windows after I just quit without saving in the UEFI. But after rebooting into UEFI again, I noticed that seemingly every setting I've made got reset, except for my boot device order?

 

Due to my current situation, I leave my PC every other week for (usually) another week. And in that time I unplug it completely from the wall just to be safe in case there's a big surge or thunder. I've done this since I built my PC in June 2017, but has this drained my CMOS battery way quicker than the usual 10+ years they're supposed to last? I've read around online that unplugging your PC regularly for extended periods of time can cause it to drain way faster without AC power due to modern hardware. Or does this sound like something else?

 

Relevant specs:

Motherboard: ASUS Z270 ROG MAXIMUS IX CODE (running version 1501, latest)

CPU: i7-7700K

RAM: Corsair vengeance CL15 16GB DDR4 300Mhz

Rest of my specs are on my profile.

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When the computer is unplugged from the wall, it uses the battery to save your BIOS settings. I'd expect the battery to be dead if you unplug it for half the time. 

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

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Just now, IkeaGnome said:

When the computer is unplugged from the wall, it uses the battery to save your BIOS settings. I'd expect the battery to be dead if you unplug it for half the time. 

So that's probably it then? I've never heard about this before until today, but I suppose it does make sense.

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2 minutes ago, TGO said:

So that's probably it then? I've never heard about this before until today, but I suppose it does make sense.

They usually don’t die that fast, I have had PC’s not lose BIOS settings while being unplugged for a very long time. But, maybe your battery was a dud… 

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Yep it's normal, it usually lasts 10+ years simply because it's never used unless the PC is unplugged, which most people don't do.

I have a machine that's been spending more time unplugged than plugged and the battery was dead in 2 years.

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

Asus Zenbook UM325UA, Ryzen 7 5700u, 16GB, 1TB, OLED

 

GPD Win 2

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Yeah, the CMOS basically got drained within that time, I'm not very suprised. HP at least says that CMOS batteries last between 2 and 10 years so it's not exactly a guarantee that the CMOS battery will hold for 10 years, HP also says that the CMOS battery gets charged when the laptop is plugged in I'm assumming laptop can be replaced with PC in this scenarios regardless.

Quote
The CMOS battery gets charged whenever your laptop is plugged in. It's only when your laptop is unplugged that the battery loses charge. Most batteries will last 2 to 10 years from the date they're manufactured. The more you leave your laptop plugged in, the longer your battery will last.

https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/tech-takes/what-is-cmos-battery-how-to-remove-and-replace

 

Edit: It might be best in your case to just get a surge protector because it'll be more convenient since you don't have to unplug your PC at all or replace the CMOS battery more often.

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54 minutes ago, TGO said:

For the past 2 times I've booted my PC after unplugging it, my time in Windows has been incorrect.

I would recommend NOT doing this unless you very well know what you are doing.

Its a huge strain on your home power situation as well as the PSU for when you turn it on again. (capacitor inrush)

And as you can see now also the extra problem of needing to buy a new battery.

 

 

Ps i've worked with a many old computer and 2 years is about the max for when its never turned on.

But ive seen computers over 15 years with the same battery working perfectly.
So yes its highly dependent on use case.

 

When i ask for more specs, don't expect me to know the answer!
I'm just helping YOU to help YOURSELF!
(The more info you give the easier it is for others to help you out!)

Not willing to capitulate to the ignorance of the masses!

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1 hour ago, AndreiArgeanu said:

It might be best in your case to just get a surge protector because it'll be more convenient since you don't have to unplug your PC at all or replace the CMOS battery more often.

I do have a surge protecting power strip, but I don't think it helps against lightning? 

 

37 minutes ago, HanZie82 said:

I would recommend NOT doing this unless you very well know what you are doing.

Its a huge strain on your home power situation as well as the PSU for when you turn it on again. (capacitor inrush)

And as you can see now also the extra problem of needing to buy a new battery.

 

Really? Even with modern hardware? I've always been under the assumption that you should always unplug your stuff whenever you're not at home with it for a while.

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Stuff doesn't mind being unplugged at all. 

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

Asus Zenbook UM325UA, Ryzen 7 5700u, 16GB, 1TB, OLED

 

GPD Win 2

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1 hour ago, Kilrah said:

Stuff doesn't mind being unplugged at all. 

Except when they have a CMOS battery?

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14 hours ago, TGO said:

I can't find anything related to replacing this CMOS battery on the motherboard's support page.. Should I just replace it with a battery with the same size?

Yes, usually they are CR2025 (Or CR2030) it should be marked on the battery.


When installing the new one take care to not touch both sides to much, as even the resistance of your skin can drain the battery.

Since its such a tiny battery.

When i ask for more specs, don't expect me to know the answer!
I'm just helping YOU to help YOURSELF!
(The more info you give the easier it is for others to help you out!)

Not willing to capitulate to the ignorance of the masses!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got back to the PC today, this is the error I get after unplugging it from AC:

image.thumb.jpg.da820a2f673c356ea8566a061ccd4fa0.jpg
 

It rebooted 3-4 times before it got to this screen as well.

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Possibly off-topic, but any idea as to how to access the PCI release for the GPU so I can take it out and remove the “armor” hiding the CMOS?

image.thumb.jpg.6721226786c321a6e087a62cf8071e83.jpg
 

The release button is only visabale on the side where it sits RIGHT in the middle between the CPU cooler and GPU: 

image.thumb.jpg.2f8db81db0eaf2b8ce6e6529f8e7798c.jpg

 

Would rather not use a screwdriver and put the risk of slipping and damaging the board under, but removing the CPU cooler seems like a hassle in itself having to re-apply thermal paste etc.

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Not much choice but to use a long thin thing, maybe use a pen with retractable tip, other plastic thing or a stick of wood if you don't want something hard...

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

Asus Zenbook UM325UA, Ryzen 7 5700u, 16GB, 1TB, OLED

 

GPD Win 2

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33 minutes ago, Kilrah said:

Not much choice but to use a long thin thing, maybe use a pen with retractable tip, other plastic thing or a stick of wood if you don't want something hard...

Any idea how big the chances are of damaging the board under is case the screwdriver would slip off the plastic PCI lock?

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Basically impossible to tell...

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

Asus Zenbook UM325UA, Ryzen 7 5700u, 16GB, 1TB, OLED

 

GPD Win 2

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13 minutes ago, Kilrah said:

Basically impossible to tell...

I suppose. I just really don’t want to damage the board, especially now during the shortage.

 

I’m not even sure I have some liquid to wipe off the thermal paste in case I have to take the cooler out.

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