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OLED 48CX or nah or wait?

CTR640

Hey everyone,

 

I recently upgraded my desk and am looking or waiting for a new monitor or tv. The LG 48CX is a very populair one amonst gamers and to those who watches movies and I want to use it for both. Why OLED? I can't stand the %$@& backlight bleeds when buying a new lcd monitor and I value great blacks and so far, only OLED. Although I've been looking for Samsung G5 or G7 but the backlight bleeds immediately turned me off and looking further. So the 48CX is on top of the list. But I would like to hear from owners of this tv who are using it for PC: is there inputlag when using different display profiles like Expert and using your own settings? And what about racing games on the 48CX? Faster burn-ins? I mostly play The Crew 2 and the races can be very long. Other games I play is GTA, mostly GTAV/Online. I'll not use the tv when browsing the net or my sister uses my pc for Word, I already have a small monitor for that.

 

LG will be introducing new oled monitors this summer but they are pricey. 27" or 32" oled would have been perfect but oh well, only in dreams.

 

What about Sony OLED KE-48A9? Terrible for my use case? 😛

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CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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7 minutes ago, CTR640 said:

The LG 48CX is a very popular one amongst gamers

Do you realistically *need* that much 'real estate'...?

If you're mostly 2' from the panel, a 48" panel is going to be a nightmare; if you're sim-rigging, then I get it.

 

What are you currently using, and at what viewing distance?  "Filling a desk-space for the sake of it" levels of enthusiasm should be controlled as much as possible.  🙂

I frequently edit any posts you may quote; please check for anything I 'may' have added.

 

Did you test boot it, before you built in into the case?

WHY NOT...?!

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22 minutes ago, CTR640 said:

And what about racing games on the 48CX? Faster burn-ins?

OLED "burn-in" is cumulative, so anything with a static UI that gets used a lot is generally a bad idea with them. Things have improved regarding how long it takes to develop, but it'll happen eventually. Check e.g. RTING's long term burn-in test so see the progression (for older models, but gets the gist across).

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25 minutes ago, Eighjan said:

Do you realistically *need* that much 'real estate'...?

If you're mostly 2' from the panel, a 48" panel is going to be a nightmare; if you're sim-rigging, then I get it.

 

What are you currently using, and at what viewing distance?  "Filling a desk-space for the sake of it" levels of enthusiasm should be controlled as much as possible.  🙂

Well, I already have OLED A7 55" and have measured the lengt and width to have a bit of an idea how a 48" would be. 48" wasn't my first choice in the first place at all but as you know, there aren't any of them smaller than 48". I can wait tho if there will be. And what do you mean 2'? Metres or inch? My current monitor I use is a Benq GW2280.

 

11 minutes ago, tikker said:

OLED "burn-in" is cumulative, so anything with a static UI that gets used a lot is generally a bad idea with them. Things have improved regarding how long it takes to develop, but it'll happen eventually. Check e.g. RTING's long term burn-in test so see the progression (for older models, but gets the gist across).

Ok thanks. I have my A7 for almost 3 years and no issue or very unnoticeable but I avoid channels with bright logos.

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Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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6 minutes ago, CTR640 said:

And what do you mean 2'? Metres or inch?

2 feet - so, 24 inches/60cm... basically, on a desk.

 

The jump from a GW2280 to a CX48 would be like looking at a 2x2 grid of your existing monitors... for visual reference.

I frequently edit any posts you may quote; please check for anything I 'may' have added.

 

Did you test boot it, before you built in into the case?

WHY NOT...?!

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5 minutes ago, Eighjan said:

2 feet - so, 24 inches/60cm... basically, on a desk.

I see. A nightmare because of that distance or for use case? A good idea to drop it and keep my current monitor?

 

Levels of enthousiasm isn't my intention in the first place. I have reorganized my room and everything and wanted something new and nice but I don't have issue if others recommend me to forget about it. Kind of sim-rigging is what I want but if it's a bad idea, I move on.

DAC/AMPs:

Klipsch Heritage Headphone Amplifier

Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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2 minutes ago, CTR640 said:

I see. A nightmare because of that distance or for use case? A good idea to drop it and keep my current monitor?

Distance from the monitor to get a comfortable field-of-view.

 

4 minutes ago, CTR640 said:

Levels of enthousiasm isn't my intention in the first place. I have reorganized my room and everything and wanted something new and nice but I don't have issue if others recommend me to forget about it. Kind of sim-rigging is what I want but if it's a bad idea, I move on.

Your current 1080p VA isn't that bad a monitor, but a bigger VA would be sufficient.

A 4K monitor needs a beast of a graphics card to drive, so if you're looking for high refresh rates, a 1440p monitor may be enough; a 27" 1440p monitor with 144hz should give you the experience you're looking for, even 32" if space & budget allow for it.

 

OLED is still in its infancy for *proper* monitors, largely because too often they have static images that make burn-in too easy; the 48CX - being a TV - is better suited to the role OLED was designed for... minimal static images.

I frequently edit any posts you may quote; please check for anything I 'may' have added.

 

Did you test boot it, before you built in into the case?

WHY NOT...?!

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4 minutes ago, Eighjan said:

Distance from the monitor to get a comfortable field-of-view.

 

Your current 1080p VA isn't that bad a monitor, but a bigger VA would be sufficient.

A 4K monitor needs a beast of a graphics card to drive, so if you're looking for high refresh rates, a 1440p monitor may be enough; a 27" 1440p monitor with 144hz should give you the experience you're looking for, even 32" if space & budget allow for it.

 

OLED is still in its infancy for *proper* monitors, largely because too often they have static images that make burn-in too easy; the 48CX - being a TV - is better suited to the role OLED was designed for... minimal static images.

My current GPU is a 1080Ti and it it serves me very well. I use DSR to game either on 1440p or 4K depending on the game.

 

I had been looking for VA monitors. Does curved monitors have a greater chance for backlight bleedings?

DAC/AMPs:

Klipsch Heritage Headphone Amplifier

Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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1 minute ago, CTR640 said:

I had been looking for VA monitors. Does curved monitors have a greater chance for backlight bleedings?

That'll depend more on the panel in the monitor and isn't something I (personally) care too much about.

As for a 1080 ti, I'd be cautious about 4K on it, but you have the card & not me.

I frequently edit any posts you may quote; please check for anything I 'may' have added.

 

Did you test boot it, before you built in into the case?

WHY NOT...?!

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8 minutes ago, CTR640 said:

My current GPU is a 1080Ti

Thats gunna be an issue with  a CX or C1 48".

They use HDMI 2.1 to achieve 4k 120hz. You'll need a 6000 series AMD or 30 series Nvidia card to have HDMI 2.1 capability. Otherwise ull be limited to 4k 60hz.

 

Ideally u'd want to be around 4' from the screen measured from screen surface to eyes.

 

As for 'burn-in', its cumulative, so a long gaming session.. 6 hours, 8 hours, 10 hours.. wont cause immediate burn in, but heavy long term use of the same game with the same UI, has the potential to cause 'burn-in'. I'd avoid an OLED if u plan on playing the same game with a high contrast UI for more than 1000 hours total. You can increase that figure quite a lot if the UI is dull or has opacity options to increase its transparency.

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2 minutes ago, SolarNova said:

Thats gunna be an issue with  a CX or C1 48".

They use HDMI 2.1 to achieve 4k 120hz. You'll need a 6000 series AMD or 30 series Nvidia card to have HDMI 2.1 capability. Otherwise ull be limited to 4k 60hz.

 

Ideally u'd want to be around 4' from the screen measured from screen surface to eyes.

 

As for 'burn-in', its cumulative, so a long gaming session.. 6 hours, 8 hours, 10 hours.. wont cause immediate burn in, but heavy long term use of the same game with the same UI, has the potential to cause 'burn-in'. I'd avoid an OLED if u plan on playing the same game with a high contrast UI for more than 1000 hours total. You can increase that figure quite a lot if the UI is dull or has opacity options to increase its transparency.

That's not much of an issue and am aware with that so I can live with it.

 

Correct. I have sorted all of that. I had two oled monitors and both had to be returned but I did take steps before I had them. GTA and The Crew 2 are the only games I play so far and none of them more than 3 hours, maybe 2 hours at best.

DAC/AMPs:

Klipsch Heritage Headphone Amplifier

Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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OLEDs are good for gaming only. 

I have two 55" OLEDs connected to PCs.  One in a bedroom and one in the living room. The one in the living room I used as a monitor and Chrome burnt in at about 4900 hours. 

 

To me 48" would be perfect since with a 27 to 34" monitor I have to use computer glasses. At 4ft I would have to wear my driving glasses. For around 36" I don't need glasses at all since it is my natural focusing distance. So a 48" OLED on a 30" desk/table what I like.

 

I also use a 49" Nano 85 for the forums and YouTube. It is IPS and less than half the cost of the OLEDs.

 

1 hour ago, SolarNova said:

Thats gunna be an issue with  a CX or C1 48".

They use HDMI 2.1 to achieve 4k 120hz. You'll need a 6000 series AMD or 30 series Nvidia card to have HDMI 2.1 capability. Otherwise ull be limited to 4k 60hz.

My B9s do a perfect 1440p 120hz with 20 series cards so if I need the more frames I drop the resolution.  These are usually games that the textures are a bit small for 4k like Metro Exodus. I test games with both resolutions before I play.

 

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22 hours ago, CTR640 said:

That's not much of an issue and am aware with that so I can live with it.

 

Correct. I have sorted all of that. I had two oled monitors and both had to be returned but I did take steps before I had them. GTA and The Crew 2 are the only games I play so far and none of them more than 3 hours, maybe 2 hours at best.

Input lag is next to none existence in LG CX on paper, and I personally don't experience any of those when using it either. 

 

Howeve, other than the issue that other people mentioned you should be aware that the CX OLED has terrible brightness level in SDR. It can get a decent brightness here and there but for the most part, you can barely drive it above 300 nit (you can get a bit more but it can be a lot of pain, changing OLED TV brightness isn't just a matter of sliding the bar to max, you will have to know the exact mode and ABL setting in order to get the most out of its brightness level - sometime that come at the cost of input lag as well (as you can't use it under the low latency game mode) 

 

It also doesn't come with HDMI 2.1 cable, you have to source that out seperately and in some game ABL can bugged out causing the whole TV to dim rather brighten when displaying a huge flash (Monster Hunter World is one of the example) 

 

In general, I think it's rather annoying. There are time where you can clearly see that it's not meant to be used as a PC monitor but the overall image quality can be worth it if you know what you're getting into. 

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1 hour ago, e22big said:

Input lag is next to none existence in LG CX on paper, and I personally don't experience any of those when using it either. 

 

Howeve, other than the issue that other people mentioned you should be aware is that the CX OLED has terrible brightness level in SDR. It can get a decent brightness here and there but for the most part, you can barely drive it above 300 nit (you can get a bit more but it can be a lot of pain, changing OLED TV brightness isn't just a matter of sliding the bar to max, you will have to know the exact mode and ABL setting in order to get the most out of its brightness level - sometime that come at the cost of input lag as well as you can't use it under the low latency game mode) 

 

It also doesn't come with HDMI 2.1 cable, you have to source that out seperately and in some game ABL can bugged out causing the whole TV to dim rather brighten when displaying a huge flash (Monster Hunter World is one of the example) 

 

In general, I think it's rather annoying. There are time where you can clearly see that it has not meant to be used as a PC monitor but the overall image quality can be worth it if you know what you're getting into. 

Thanks for sharing your experiences. What means ABL?

 

The thing about SDR, what kind of content and at what resolutions? My room is not really bright so I think it's perfect. I mean, I don't want very bright levels.

 

And you probably mean the other setting changing the brightness level, namely OLED light slider?

 

Despite using the tv for my PC, I wouldn't be browsing the webz and writing emails and all of the other standard stuff on it. I already have a portable monitor so I can switch between the monitor and tv.

DAC/AMPs:

Klipsch Heritage Headphone Amplifier

Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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1 hour ago, CTR640 said:

Thanks for sharing your experiences. What means ABL?

 

The thing about SDR, what kind of content and at what resolutions? My room is not really bright so I think it's perfect. I mean, I don't want very bright levels.

 

And you probably mean the other setting changing the brightness level, namely OLED light slider?

 

Despite using the tv for my PC, I wouldn't be browsing the webz and writing emails and all of the other standard stuff on it. I already have a portable monitor so I can switch between the monitor and tv.

ABL - Auto-Brightness Limter, you can read more about it here. It's fine if you like its image right out of the box (and it's pretty good right out of the box) but if you want to adjust anything, it's a pain to get the right outcome. 

 

If you mainly use it as a gaming monitor then it should be fine, but just as other people pointed out - be mindful of your distance to the monitor, 48 inch is huge and sitting too close to it can make it uncomfortable to use. 

 

 

In general, it

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Also be careful not to confuse ABL with ASBL, one is adjustable, the other can only be disabled in the service menu which requires a service remote or a IR equipped phone with the service app.

However since u said u wont be browsing or writing emails or documents using the OLED , u shouldnt be in a position to ever see ASBL activate.

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38 minutes ago, e22big said:

ABL - Auto-Brightness Limter, you can read more about it here. It's fine if you like its image right out of the box (and it's pretty good right out of the box) but if you want to adjust anything, it's a pain to get the right outcome. 

 

If you mainly use it as a gaming monitor then it should be fine, but just as other people pointed out - be mindful of your distance to the monitor, 48 inch is huge and sitting too close to it can make it uncomfortable to use. 

 

 

In general, it

Yeah, there is a good chance I'll wait for 42". We had 42" plasma tv many years ago so I already got the idea. And as earlier mentioned, I have a 55" oled tv and the settings and colors right out of the box were terrible. Not in a bad way but the colors were way too saturated, like you would see in physical stores. It's not really a pain in the butt when adjusting settings. I mostly calibrate or change when having new monitor or tv. I guess it's my habit? Expert1 and adjust some settings and good to go.

 

35 minutes ago, SolarNova said:

Also be careful not to confuse ABL with ASBL, one is adjustable, the other can only be disabled in the service menu which requires a service remote or a IR equipped phone with the service app.

However since u said u wont be browsing or writing emails or documents using the OLED , u shouldnt be in a position to ever see ASBL activate.

Good to know, I'll look more about ASBL. ASBL is when a picture stays longer than 60 seconds unchanged like writing a document? I did found a review video about that exactly yesterday. Knowing myself, I would turn the off when going to the bathroom and turn it on when back 😛 I'm a responsible guy.

 

I've been thinking and I think I'll put it on hold and wait for the 42" oled. Am also curious what will AUO bring to the market later.

DAC/AMPs:

Klipsch Heritage Headphone Amplifier

Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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1 minute ago, CTR640 said:

ASBL is when a picture stays longer than 60 seconds unchanged like writing a document?

A bright image like a word document, Correct.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A little bump.

 

I've been searching enough of informations and I'll probably go for the 48C1. The 48CX has been dropped.

 

Do I need to know more or anyone can give advice? Is ABL and ASBL still a thing? I'll decrease the OLED Brightness down to 35 like I have it set on my A7.

And what about 1440p gaming at 60 or 120hz? Currently I have the 1080Ti and 1440p is the sweetspot but some games can be at 2160p with no issue. I'm used to 60 so no problem but if I can drop the cash on the 48C1, I'd like to order the required HDMI cable in case I'll ever upgrade my pc.

DAC/AMPs:

Klipsch Heritage Headphone Amplifier

Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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