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About Eighjan

  • Title
    Full-time self deprecator
  • Birthday February 24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Plymouth, UK


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 3600
  • Motherboard
    MSI X470 Gaming Pro
  • RAM
    16GB (two 8GB) 3200MHz Hyper-X Predator
  • GPU
    Sapphire Pulse Vega 56
  • Case
    Fractal Design Meshify C
  • Storage
    1TB WD Blue SN550 NVMe (system)
    500GB Samsung 850 Evo (games)
    2TB Seagate Barracuda Compute (storage)
    500GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 (umm; yeah...)
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750
  • Display(s)
    AOC CQ32G1
  • Cooling
    CPU: be quiet! Pure Rock
    Case intake: 2x NZXT AER 140F
    Case exhaust: Stock Meshify fans; 1 roof, 1 rear
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 LUX (Brown switches)
  • Mouse
    Corsair Nightsword RGB
  • Operating System
    Win10 Pro
  • Phone
    Sony Xperia L3

Recent Profile Visitors

1,747 profile views
  1. Nope... Ryzen 2xxx was only a Generation refresh. Also, Ryzen 4xxx was a mobile only release.
  2. You do realise that Ryzen 5xxx is NOT 5th Gen. in the same way that a 9900K (for example) is 9th Gen Intel Core...? Ryzen 5xxx DESKTOP CPU's are actually Zen 3 - 3rd Gen. Zen architecture: Zen - Ryzen 1xxx Zen+ - Ryzen 2xxx Zen 2 - Ryzen 3xxx Zen 3 - Ryzen 5xxx
  3. How can you be sure that's whatever is behind the door is part of the problem you're experiencing? Contacting the provider of the service you're having issues with is always the best first step to take. What are the chances of a criminal damages charge for breaking the door...?
  4. If the RAM is not in slots 2 & 4 - as numbered from the CPU socket - then you're NOT running in dual channel mode...
  5. I would suggest running DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) on the 570 driver install - ideally in Safe Mode - and reinstalling the current driver as a fresh install. It could, also, be another (chipset, maybe) driver that's causing the problem.
  6. Many EPS connectors are 4+4pin rather than 8-pin, so allow for only 'half' of it to be used in the design.
  7. ... that shows what waterblocks exist for graphics cards & what cards they'll fit, without looking into every possible maker of waterblocks? It's all well & good looking for a graphics card, but if you want to make a custom loop - at some point - I (personally) would rather know that a card CAN be watercooled before I buy it, than have to source another card when I find out that the one I have has limited/no options for water cooling... which include practicality/efficiency of shipping. MAJOR caveat - this falls, primarily, into the category of research > buy
  8. Fears based on past experiences are founded, to a degree... but if you want the experience with a newer card to be problematic - without taking a neutral approach - it may well end up that way through no fault of the hardware. If your gut tells you to not buy an AMD graphics card, then buying one anyway could be - to most people, unnecessarily - a less than enjoyable experience. Use the latest drivers, do a full 'Safe Mode' DDU of any existing drivers & see how it goes at stock settings, first. If an nVidia card is unlikely to be easy to get hold of, in the near futur
  9. Check the BIOS to make sure that it isn't asking the graphics card to run @ PCI-e Gen.4... it's better to change that setting to Auto so the card tells the motherboard what speed to run at, rather than the other way round.
  10. If a USB DAC has a ¼" plug socket and is affordable - yes. EDIT: Something like this looks like it'll do the job...
  11. If you mean, "What RAM does my router use?", you may find that it's not upgradeable/soldered onto the system board. Ugh... just figured out what you mean - what causes a router to use up so much of its' RAM; apologies.
  12. How does it behave with only one monitor connected...?
  13. If the spec's are what @TetraSky listed, then no, it's not a great deal... I was going by the newest spec's, but even then I'd be cautious about the PSU.
  14. I've seen worse pre-builts... 8GB RAM is a bit light, but workable, plenty of storage to get you up & running; the biggest question mark would be the power supply (make/model). Would you be getting it new or used?
  15. About 20 years ago, my PC had - and I think I still kept, in its entirety, except the box - a Soundblaster Live! Platinum (an ISA sound card for those old enough to remember them) and my Sony MDR-V7 "Studio Monitors" used to plug into the front break-out box... fast forward a cpl. decades & I'd like something similar without having to get a mortgage to be able to get it. I'm looking at getting some Beyerdynamic DT250's & don't want to have to ferret round the back of the PC to plug them in or risk bending the plug using the front headphone jack on my Meshify C... any sug