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Best budget durable (can last for years r/w) SSD?

Booterbotter
Go to solution Solved by merrybird12345,

Unless you're constantly writing huge files, any from a reputable brand will most likely outlast you.  People need to stop worrying about write endurance for OS and gaming drives.  Like one of the posters above I have a Samsung 840 128gb from 2012 that still has decades of life left.

Just wondering, I was checking on my bookmarked ssd tier list

Got confused a bit on back reading the comments lol.

So generally, is there a specific Tier (C or B maybe) SSD that can last 5yrs or so. Purpose will be just for windows and 1 or 2 major games or even just windows os TBH lol.

Thanks!

 

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My Crucial M4 128GB - from 2010 - is at 91% health and has been active for about 9.5 of those 10 years.
And according to the creator of the list, it would be Tier D.

Pick any, pretty much.

elephants

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1 minute ago, ragnarok0273 said:

My Crucial M4 128GB - from 2010 - is at 91% health and has been active for about 9.5 of those 10 years.
And according to the creator of the list, it would be Tier D.

Pick any, pretty much.

I guess you pretty much use it for Windows OS? Being in Tier D or C at least looks good budget wise per checking.

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1 minute ago, Booterbotter said:

I guess you pretty much use it for Windows OS? Being in Tier D or C at least looks good budget wise per checking.

Windows, core programs, and the Downloads folder is chaotic.

elephants

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Just now, ragnarok0273 said:

Windows, core programs, and the Downloads folder is chaotic.

I set my Google Chrome Downloads folder to my HDD to prevent excessive read/erase cycles on my 970 Evo in a separate folder I have on that drive. Still going over 5 years at this point.

 

Samsung is the only brand that I can trust for SSDs, although I'm willing to try WD's SSDs as they seem decent for the price. I have an Inland SATA SSD in my MacBook Pro 15 and I didn't notice a difference when I had a Samsung SATA SSD in my first PC for 4 years. 

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it doesn't exist, either its of good quality and properly priced or its cheap trash, that's cheap and trash. 

 

I rec Samsung Evo 860... it's actually rather cheap for a high quality ssd 

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1 minute ago, SpiderMan said:

I set my Google Chrome Downloads folder to my HDD to prevent excessive read/erase cycles on my 970 Evo in a separate folder I have on that drive. Still going over 5 years at this point.

If this drive has survived 10 years of me having no organization whatsoever and is at 91%, I'm keeping it.

I tried to organize once but I ended up just shoving anything that didn't need its own folder into the "Documents" folder.

elephants

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1 minute ago, SpiderMan said:

set my Google Chrome Downloads folder to my HDD to prevent excessive read/erase cycles on my 970 Evo in a separate folder I have on that drive. Still going over 5 years at this point.

I set my windows temp folder and my nvidia shadow play temp folder on my boot ssd to get full use out of my ssd which is why I bought it - I imagine having stuff like that on a mech drive will slow things down a lot... 

 

20210130_151046.thumb.jpg.a188561d1d6dbc23cf97ffaec49f940b.jpg

The direction tells you... the direction

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Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

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VLC

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GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

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CPUZ

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2 hours ago, Mark Kaine said:

I set my windows temp folder and my nvidia shadow play temp folder on my boot ssd to get full use out of my ssd which is why I bought it - I imagine having stuff like that on a mech drive will slow things down a lot... 

 

~Snipped photo~

I have replays from my one game go onto my SSD, though I will probably try and search to reconfigure the file path to where they safe. If not, its no big deal since you can't play the replays on a newer client for the game. The downloads are simple files and nothing huge that is very tasking, only big file games that I hardly play will be stored on a hard drive for right now until the price of solid states (good quality/reliable ones) make the $/GB less than the $/GB for HDDs. 

 

3 hours ago, ragnarok0273 said:

If this drive has survived 10 years of me having no organization whatsoever and is at 91%, I'm keeping it.

I tried to organize once but I ended up just shoving anything that didn't need its own folder into the "Documents" folder.

Before I put together my first build, I didn't care where my files were. Now, I try to keep them organized to make my life easier to know where things are. 

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Go with any SSDs from tier C/D. They are perfectly fine for handling OS and a couple of games.

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5 hours ago, VEXICUS said:

Go with any SSDs from tier C/D. They are perfectly fine for handling OS and a couple of games.

Main issue here is that a lot of manufacturers are silently changing flash from TLC to QLC on cheap SSD-s, stuff like BX500, for example, is nowadays almost guaranteed to be QLC.

And dramless QLC SSD-s based on SM2258XT/S11/MAS0902A and similar IMO belong to same "tier" with $5 thumb drives and are not really good for anything, apart from may be very light office work.

Taking an hour to write 50GB (a game) is perfectly normal for this SSD-s, with response times way above those of old hdd-s during whole process.

 

Looking through the "tiers" - this list contains a bunch of inaccuracies, apart from flash type which is as unreliable as any store description (with manufacturers silently changing it nothing can really be done here, apart from may be a warning that it's inaccurate). Like Wd green no longer uses SM2258XT, the version which is sold nowadays ("G2" in model name) uses sandisk/wd own controller.

 

As for  OP... my opinion here is - avoid dramless, avoid qlc. Get something like wd blue/barracuda 120/mx500/860evo/870evo/intel 545 or similar. You can choose the cheapest from those, but going lower will result in small savings and huge loss of performance. Not worth it.

Also do not bother with endurance/"reliability" too much, there is no way to know what will last for a decade and what will die in a year. If you are worried about longevity just pick something with longer warranty.

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Unless you're constantly writing huge files, any from a reputable brand will most likely outlast you.  People need to stop worrying about write endurance for OS and gaming drives.  Like one of the posters above I have a Samsung 840 128gb from 2012 that still has decades of life left.

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