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1080ti 60-65C in a custom loop

Go to solution Solved by MoonFrost,

So.... I took the block apart. And guess who's the dumbass who didnt read instructions clearly?


<- this guy.

On all 7 screws, I used the M2.5x6's

They were supposed to be the M2.5x4's 

3 years.. fml

I think I fixed the problem, after a gaming session temps were around mid 40's with all my fans on 1,000 rpm. Now I still gotta buy a temp sensor. If someone has an idea where they'd put one in my case that wouldn't look ugly lemme know. Im thinking either the reservoir port where the EK plug is currently, or the plug under the 90degree fitting on the graphics card, and somehow hide the cord. (my radiators dont have extra ports, just one inlet and one outlet)

I have a i7 8700k at 5ghz all cores 1.29v. Not delidded. 

Asus 1080ti, not overclocked. 

Asus Formula that also has the VRM water cooled. 

Corsair 570x case with 6 static pressure fans at 1200rpm on load. 

EK Slim radiators, one 240, one 360. I flushed, refilled loop with fresh fluid. I've taken apart the block and reapplied paste twice to the 1080ti. The only difference is I've adjusted the 8700k overclock from 4900 to 5ghz and adjusted a lot more settings after watching a video tutorial for the 8700k.

 

I was playing subnautica for a long session and noticed I was around 64C at the end on the 1080ti, 8700k hanging around 60-70c.

 

Is it possible that the 8700k is heating the fluid that much more? I think before I did the flush I was maxing around 55C.

 

Edit: maybe I need to clean radiators? I didn't have any buildup in the blocks really after two years with no maintenance. 

 

20180205_223445.jpg

 

 

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Are the front and top intake? If not make sure they are otherwise if the top is an outtake then it will barely do anything to help cooling.

 

Temps are pretty decent but indeed could and should be better considering the heatload and the amount of rad you have.

 

Also your case doesn't have great airflow due to the front glass so take that off and see how much of a difference it makes.

 

What fans are these?

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1 minute ago, jaslion said:

Are the front and top intake? If not make sure they are otherwise if the top is an outtake then it will barely do anything to help cooling.

 

Temps are pretty decent but indeed could and should be better considering the heatload and the amount of rad you have.

 

Also your case doesn't have great airflow due to the front glass so take that off and see how much of a difference it makes.

 

What fans are these?

they look top quality, but the least ik is that they are some wish products

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Just now, ComputerBuilder said:

they look top quality, but the least ik is that they are some wish products

Got a name? Wish fans tend to be not good for radiators as their static pressure is more like "static pressure".

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sorry if im wrong, but the cpu and gpu share top rad, that is prob why

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Just now, jaslion said:

Got a name? Wish fans tend to be not good for radiators as their static pressure is more like "static pressure".

ok yea its pro because water is coming from cpu to rad and then rad to gpu

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3 minutes ago, ComputerBuilder said:

sorry if im wrong, but the cpu and gpu share top rad, that is prob why

That is totally fine. What I mean is are the fans pulling air into the case on the top rad or are they expelling air out of the the case. If they are taking air out of the case turn them around and make them intakes that will already help a fair bit.

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3 minutes ago, jaslion said:

Got a name? Wish fans tend to be not good for radiators as their static pressure is more like "static pressure".

Top rad and rear is exhaust, front rad is intake. The fans are corsair hd120 rgb

 

 

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1 minute ago, jaslion said:

That is totally fine. What I mean is are the fans pulling air into the case on the top rad or are they expelling air out of the the case. If they are taking air out of the case turn them around and make them intakes that will already help a fair bit.

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

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9 minutes ago, MoonFrost said:

Top rad and rear is exhaust, front rad is intake. The fans are corsair hd120 rgb

Sorry I confused you for the other guys and thought he was the one building the thing sorry my bad. But yeah I would make the top intake as that will be a lot more effective the case has enough back ventilation that this isn't a problem. Also removing the front glass could seriously help.

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1 minute ago, jaslion said:

Sorry I confused you for the other guys and thought he was the one building the thing sorry my bad. But yeah I would make the top intake as that will be a lot more effective the case has enough back ventilation that this isn't a problem. Also removing the front glass could seriously help.

I would think 5 fans pushing warm air into the case from the radiators wouldn't be optimal with 1 exhaust, especially with the turbulence both intakes would cause, I'd imagine hot air would get trapped everything to the right of the center of the case. I might take off the front glass though and see if that helps

 

 

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I have the same case and GPU, seeing similar temperatures with a 240mm radiator as exhaust on top and a 360 as intake on the front. @jaslion is right that it's abysmal for airflow. At times I can notice a 5C drop in temperature on e.g. the CPU if I remove the front and top glass panels, so I've been running without them for a while now. Maybe I'll give top as intake a shot as well, see if that makes any difference.

Crystal: CPU: i7 7700K | Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z270F | RAM: GSkill 16 GB@3200MHz | GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti FE | Case: Corsair Crystal 570X (black) | PSU: EVGA Supernova G2 1000W | Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24"

Laptop: Dell XPS 13 9370 | CPU: i5 10510U | RAM: 16 GB

Server: CPU: i5 4690k | RAM: 16 GB | Case: Corsair Graphite 760T White | Storage: 19 TB

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1 hour ago, MoonFrost said:

I would think 5 fans pushing warm air into the case from the radiators wouldn't be optimal with 1 exhaust, especially with the turbulence both intakes would cause, I'd imagine hot air would get trapped everything to the right of the center of the case. I might take off the front glass though and see if that helps

Actually not a problem at all since the only airflow you really need is through the rads. There can be hot air in the case as nothing needs to be really cooled by it that and this creates a heavy pressure on the back. You can even remove the fan at the back and temps won't be different as you created a positive pressure case. Your whole back of the case is mesh so it has more than enough surface area to ventilate. With watercooling you don't think with airflow like an air cooler setup.

 

So really just change the top one to intake and notice a fairly good temp drop. Remove the glass and notice another big one as @tikker also said and even can confirm from personal use.

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Bad mount, poor water flow or poor air flow. 
 

Mine never gets that hot though I hate that it runs close to 50c. Depends on the fan/pump speeds though. 
 

Have you completely bled the system and ran everything at max with the side off to eliminate variables?

 

I can run triple 1080ti’s in my other rig and still not see those temps. Maybe high 40’s though. 

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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2 hours ago, Mick Naughty said:

Bad mount, poor water flow or poor air flow. 
 

Mine never gets that hot though I hate that it runs close to 50c. Depends on the fan/pump speeds though. 
 

Have you completely bled the system and ran everything at max with the side off to eliminate variables?

 

I can run triple 1080ti’s in my other rig and still not see those temps. Maybe high 40’s though. 

what are your fan/ pump speeds? Im keeping my d5 at 75%, any higher introduces an annoying hum. My fans peak at 1200, but I could raise them, just trying to reduce noise.

I plopped a meat thermometer in one of the inlets in my rad and played subnautica until my gpu hit 64, the fluid was around 38C after 2 hours or so, ambient is around 20C. 8700k averaged around 70C, spiking up to 85C, again not delidded though. Im kinda leaning towards thermal paste on the gpu again... I followed EKWB's directions but i still think the amount of paste they suggest is insane. They say to do it in a criss cross pattern X and + all over the die.

Untitled.png

 

edit: currently trying Heaven, fans will max out at 2000 rpm if it hits 65C. All glass panels are off. Currently at 50C /1300rpm.

 

 

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This discussion about intake/exhaust is not the source of the problem in my opinion, if anything, double exhaust would be better in my opinion for this kind of tight setup.if there is a problem, this is more to do with the block assembly than anything like airflow direction.

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1 hour ago, For Science! said:

This discussion about intake/exhaust is not the source of the problem in my opinion, if anything, double exhaust would be better in my opinion for this kind of tight setup.if there is a problem, this is more to do with the block assembly than anything like airflow direction.

Might also work probably about the same as all intake really. Either way having a rad heat the air up that another rad uses to cool is inefficient so either way would benefit.

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23 minutes ago, jaslion said:

Might also work probably about the same as all intake really. Either way having a rad heat the air up that another rad uses to cool is inefficient so either way would benefit.

In my system, all intake performed 10-13 degrees worse than all exhaust.

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2 minutes ago, For Science! said:

In my system, all intake performed 10-13 degrees worse than all exhaust.

It really depends on the case you have. Normally top and front intake is not an issue. If you have too much it will be an issue. Like if you do back intake too yeah that will be a problem.

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All of my rads are all exhaust as it should be. Best of both worlds. 

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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Side question sorta. Trying to think of everything that changed. I adjusted my cpu overclock to 5ghz at 1.29 instead of 4.9 at 1.28.  But in order to get 5ghz stable I followed a guide that adjusted like 20 settings in the bios, load line calibration level, Max wattage, a lot of stuff I don't even remember. 

 

Now I'm thinking to reverting back to a simple 4.9 just to test how high Gpu gets, incase the cpu adjustments have pushed my system to the point where it can't keep Gpu as cool as before. 

 

So my question : if I choose to Load Optimized Defaults on an Asus motherboard... Will that delete any saved overclock profile from my motherboard memory? I know it'll override my settings, but idk if it's like a factory reset where I can't go back to my saved profile later. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, MoonFrost said:

Side question sorta. Trying to think of everything that changed. I adjusted my cpu overclock to 5ghz at 1.29 instead of 4.9 at 1.28.  But in order to get 5ghz stable I followed a guide that adjusted like 20 settings in the bios, load line calibration level, Max wattage, a lot of stuff I don't even remember. 

 

Now I'm thinking to reverting back to a simple 4.9 just to test how high Gpu gets, incase the cpu adjustments have pushed my system to the point where it can't keep Gpu as cool as before. 

 

So my question : if I choose to Load Optimized Defaults on an Asus motherboard... Will that delete any saved overclock profile from my motherboard memory? I know it'll override my settings, but idk if it's like a factory reset where I can't go back to my saved profile later. 

I find the saved profile stuff really unreliable IMO, so I think you should drop your profiles onto a USB stick (i think there should be an option to do that).

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12 minutes ago, For Science! said:

I find the saved profile stuff really unreliable IMO, so I think you should drop your profiles onto a USB stick (i think there should be an option to do that).

I didn't even think about that. Thanks

 

 

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So.... I took the block apart. And guess who's the dumbass who didnt read instructions clearly?


<- this guy.

On all 7 screws, I used the M2.5x6's

They were supposed to be the M2.5x4's 

3 years.. fml

I think I fixed the problem, after a gaming session temps were around mid 40's with all my fans on 1,000 rpm. Now I still gotta buy a temp sensor. If someone has an idea where they'd put one in my case that wouldn't look ugly lemme know. Im thinking either the reservoir port where the EK plug is currently, or the plug under the 90degree fitting on the graphics card, and somehow hide the cord. (my radiators dont have extra ports, just one inlet and one outlet)

 

 

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