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[CluelessBuilds] Fragile Investment - Glas, Chrome and only the thiccest Rads

cluelessgenius
Just now, cluelessgenius said:

i mean thats alays gonna be the case but to me it just felt like it wasnt that long since ssds came out at all and now a tb is 100 bucks. time flys i guess

yeah i was thinking that also like jeez didnt ssd just come out? lol and seems like pciex3 just came out also and now theres 4.0? time surely does fly,also i game too much and have no sense of time anyways lol

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soo i got at least something done on the fan cutout are in and turned out alright. also i made a cutout behind the mobo for backplate access just like the case already had but a bit shortened to mitx length. also the 4 hole for water passthrough to the back are in. also my dad surprised me with a wooden spacer he made sooo... im not the biggest fan of it but it will do the job and probably not be visible anyway. 20190708_150252_HDR.thumb.jpg.9bb907359ef95588a67407141c2ac7bf.jpg20190714_180225.thumb.jpg.3941240e5733e7065d39f1363034d15c.jpg20190714_180232.thumb.jpg.6f12a42d1a5835d86db1fa8910cbb9a3.jpg20190714_180620_HDR.thumb.jpg.32a62053d77b1b57609c542b4e253380.jpg20190714_210343_HDR.thumb.jpg.a31ff61c0562e58343ccda02254236b2.jpg

 

next up will be widening the mobo cutout a bit to the back. sand all the cuts a bit to not cut myself then paint the wood black and put it between fans and rad. that reminds me i nee to get some longer screws for those now. 

ohh and im not sure how to do the atx power cable. might drill 24 holes the pass them through and re mount the connector. the sata cables will hopefully be flat enough to go behind 5he board and through that cutout. then the gpu power i have no clue yet. one step at a time

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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alright now i have a tiny problem. i havent thought about cables at all so far. pretty dumb i know...

anyway 

not only do i have to feed them somehow to the other side but also i dont want to block off the right side of the mobo since theres all all the leds under theres i really want as much of that glow visible as possible.

image.png.3dcd246be205d95ce34d35e1699ece66.png

 

not sure what to do here. im pretty sure i can somehow hide front io cables and possible sata as well

but that fat 24 pin is much tougher to get out of the way ..idk ....anyone any ideas.

 

ohh yeah the gpu power cables are also a bit tricky

i cold just hide them under the gpu and go through the back though

 

the cpu power bacle im not worried.

i can just go through the top panel

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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jesus christ 9 bucks for a single sata cable

are you kidding me. 

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00L6M0LQE/?coliid=I1EQ3K41LDGAUQ&colid=9GIU5IE924UJ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

silverstones cp11 cable look awesomely slim and hideable but 9 bucks per cable? god damn it

ill have to think about that one a bit.

also why noone alese make slim sata cables like that? i guess most people dont give a crap

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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god damn it. 

soooo....i just ordered them

and a pin remover so i can disconnect the 24 pin and feed it through piece by piece

might as well sleeve it while im at it

 

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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On 6/14/2019 at 11:41 AM, cluelessgenius said:

alright so since this is finally actually happening i thought i might as well start a topic on it.

 

im planning this thing for literally years now and lets say plans have changed somewhat so now im back to the "basics" - but still fancy as fuck :D

 

so heres the juice:

 

i7 7700k

1080 Ti 

16 GB G.skill RGB Ram

Asus z270i mitx 

then some ssds and hdds and a corsair sf600 left over from the old planned build (tecnically i wouldnt need sfx anymore but meh .. does the job)

Lian Li PC o11 dynamic (with a couple of mods)

 

ek supremecy evo full nickel (x99 block converted to 115x)

ek gpu block

ek xres 100 combo paired with an aqua computer d5 pump

360 x 80mm tick alphacool monsta in the bottom

360 x 60mm tick alphacool ut60 in the top

360 x 45mm tick alphacool xt45 in the back

all noctua ippc nf12

all alphacool fittings since they are the only once that fit because.....

borosilicatglas tubing in the front and soft in the back

 

i have almost all the parts now and theres only time and work left to do.

expect i thought since its gonna be impossible to access later i might as well populate all the m.2 slots now and get another ssd for the back of the board 

and ohh of course eks cryofuel ill order with that ...and a filler bottle :P

 

heres some rough renders of the layout

  Reveal hidden contents

image.png.73a5825ea60db90edf96207ed97abc60.pngimage.png.3cab07cef5ae2311a1878d56318a7778.pngimage.png.34d7beba1f5d57b7459496aca452650b.pngimage.png.2ab49a2d28d4d8ad046c00b2fdf6bd2b.png

as you can see ill box off the top and bottom rad with holes for fans and fittings of course

then the back also gets an aluminium cover plate to make it a bit shinier

the pump goes in the back

and on top ill cut out a bit to fit my 5 1/4" drive cage

also quick disconnects out back (looped back around for now) for possible future external cooling (i know its redicoulus but i might try for passive while idle at some point)

 

heres some hastely taken pics i had lying around. now that i have a topic ill get you better ones as i go along

  Reveal hidden contents

20190529_204728_HDR.thumb.jpg.649ca4b0b1b8d2cf82c0498e6c9c43f0.jpg

20190608_222318_HDR.thumb.jpg.0ed9ef99dd65d6d20813d6c5f63de3ca.jpg20190612_232703.thumb.jpg.7ed20c7efb5e66c6edb627bd41bf40fb.jpg

 

so i hope you like it. i am grateful for feedback and thoughts. and also lets give this bitch a name ...

i love the idea of this build cant wait to see the progress and the finished thing,i was thinking of something similar only with mirrors instead,this will give me some ideas thanks!

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9 minutes ago, xreaperx22 said:

i love the idea of this build cant wait to see the progress and the finished thing,i was thinking of something similar only with mirrors instead,this will give me some ideas thanks!

well thanks. im glad you like my idea so far.

i wanted maximum reflections for lighting purposes but still somewhat diffused because going full mirror would mean i would have to look at my own ugly ass all the time :D 

no but seriously i found it to be really hard to make something into a mirror finish or in my case chrome.

ive tried spray paint which didnt really do it more like grey

i tried film wrapping which was better than paint but also not ideal for complex parts

 

so i think ill be happy with aluminium and if i really feel like i need to i think you can polish aluminium to mirror finish aswell but the brushed look isnt half bad either.

 

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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 i have been such a bad boy again... :D 

image.png.778dd75a502b41d116cbdedf40fce574.pngimage.png.1cc328cad25edd0cd210bc4676f27d1c.png

image.png.9214503b08ab53754c407fb178f010c4.png

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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1 minute ago, RollinLower said:

so this build is pretty much 90% unnecessary

i love it!

well that should be clear from signature already :D

this isnt about function obviously. anyone can slap a system together.

also in retrospekt i might have gone simpler but by the point i realised what i had gotten myself into it was already to late. i was already way to deep into the budget. so there was really no turning back. if im honest i think a simple build in a dan case or smiliar would have been just as awesome.

but then again i am quite proud of it. i turned an atx case into an itx board only case used the fattest rads possible. made / am making custom cover plates, managed to get a 5 1/4" hot swap drive cage in there, yada yada. honestly try finding a case you can just plop an alphacool monsta in.

 

anyway enough tootin my own horn. my point is if youre an enthusiast it aint about "neccessary". thats exactly why i have that phrase there in my signature

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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alright so the pass throughs are in now. 

the thin sata cables are luckily just l9ng enough to reach under the board and to the drive cage. 

sadly the wooden spacer for the back fans my dad made for me is just a tiny bit too thick and warps the aluminium soo... yeah need to fix that

also since my ed render was so rough its gonna be really fucking tight in the back but i think manageable. 

i also cut the plexi for the bottom shroud but havent bent it yet yeah slow going

but also just figured a couple points out by testmounting it all. like where cables are going through. 

ao ill only cut holes for the 8 pin eps, the 24 pin and the 2x 6+2 pin cables for the gpu. 

i decided to go for 2x 6+2 instead of 1x 6 pin and 1x 8 pin just for future proofing. 

anyway here a quick pic 

20190720_163224.thumb.jpg.c4fb4dd50f257fffcfdd350053b26877.jpg

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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alright so i have now disassembled mobo and cpu.

the cpu will ship out today to get delid.

but playing around and testing fitting the waterblock i noticed some things. 

first thing is the mobo. how is every manufacturer not getting this?

i put the block on and had to squeez it in because of the whatever they are called in english (i cant remember right now)

image.png.8bf99b7297c9bb4842627480ec938ccd.png

basically the thing on the left are in the way of putting the block on in the center.

if i shift it slightly the the right it barely fits though.

BUT then the mounting plate is ever so slightly pushing against the ram and bending it.

sooo... since im not gonna grind down the left part of the bottom of the block im just gonna have to  grind the mounting plate every so slightly on the right so it doesnt touch the ram.

 

also i painted the usually black half of the ram heatsink silver a long lime ago and didnt do a good job sealing it so theres scratches and smudges and ill repaint those while i got it all pulled apart.

 

also i cant find my stupid bag witht the spare screws from the board. you know for mounting the corsair m.2 on the back. really need to find those screws.

 

 

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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On 7/22/2019 at 10:19 AM, cluelessgenius said:

 

Is this not just because you took an X99 block? My normal supremacy evo didn't have any problems on the z370i,

Spoiler

20171110_144810.thumb.jpg.0d3e766279c8626b15f4b6882f8350e3.jpg

 

 

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8 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Is this not just because you took an X99 block? My normal supremacy evo didn't have any problems on the z370i,

 

well your mounting plate at least does look somehow more smaller

but looking at the specs the 2 blocks should be the exact same as has been confirmed by ek when i asked about converting x99 to 1151.

image.png.ee71c19108eab61450c66025b7e2db5c.png

 

so maybe asus improved the board with z370? idk

actually let me find out here as soon as gimip finished installing on my work usb 

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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46 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Is this not just because you took an X99 block? My normal supremacy evo didn't have any problems on the z370i,

 

 

so i just put those 2 boards on top of each other pixel by pixel and switching between the layer it seems like they really didnt change much so idk why yours isnt as tight of a fit. i do still think maybe the mounting plate on mine is just bigger since i had to order the spare part for the conversion.

 

also im kinda sad that im stuck z270 when the asus z370i has the heatsinks way shinier than the 270i.

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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3 hours ago, For Science! said:

Is this not just because you took an X99 block? My normal supremacy evo didn't have any problems on the z370i,

 

 

or is it maybe because i want to mount my block rotated by 90° clockwise compared to your picture?

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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24 minutes ago, cluelessgenius said:

or is it maybe because i want to mount my block rotated by 90° clockwise compared to your picture?

nope, also did this, no problem (in fact, this was the final configuration in my case too).

 

20171121_195109.jpg.1bb4336278a199a8d9b33452b52cb574.jpg

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18 minutes ago, For Science! said:

nope, also did this, no problem (in fact, this was the final configuration in my case too).

 

 

weird. then i got no clue whats going on but in any case it should be quite easy to fix.

btw arent you sufficating that bottom rad. i get the appeal of sff and it does look awesome but arent you basically blocking off the rad with your gpu entirely? theres like a 5mm crack between them i looks like.

also im sure it doesnt matter but compared to that picture i would want to do a 180 turn to havve the outlets a bit higher up. but again should matter.

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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Just now, cluelessgenius said:

-

This build has been up and running for close to 2 years now and the temps are fine. Better to have a suffocated rad than a rad with no fans, or no rad. The tubing runs are also fine as the connections can be made and this case is not windowed anyway so how it looks is only secondary.

 

20171205_201310.jpg.e26fedd42e34a727a3ac5442702fe8da.jpg

 

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On 7/20/2019 at 3:47 PM, cluelessgenius said:

alright so the pass throughs are in now. 

the thin sata cables are luckily just l9ng enough to reach under the board and to the drive cage. 

sadly the wooden spacer for the back fans my dad made for me is just a tiny bit too thick and warps the aluminium soo... yeah need to fix that

also since my ed render was so rough its gonna be really fucking tight in the back but i think manageable. 

i also cut the plexi for the bottom shroud but havent bent it yet yeah slow going

but also just figured a couple points out by testmounting it all. like where cables are going through. 

ao ill only cut holes for the 8 pin eps, the 24 pin and the 2x 6+2 pin cables for the gpu. 

i decided to go for 2x 6+2 instead of 1x 6 pin and 1x 8 pin just for future proofing. 

anyway here a quick pic 

20190720_163224.thumb.jpg.c4fb4dd50f257fffcfdd350053b26877.jpg

wow, I didn't realize your rads where that thick XD I know those a really good fans but are they able to move enough air through those rads? and at what speed do you plan to run them? :)

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Just now, chen57 said:

wow, I didn't realize your rads where that thick XD I know those a really good fans but are they able to move enough air through those rads? and at what speed do you plan to run them? :)

...

well i told you from the start that i only use the thiccest rads possible :D 

thats a 80 mil alphacool monsta in the bottom.

dont worry about the fans. those rads maybe thicc but they (what the opposite of dense in english again?) ...eehhh....loose? no ...anyway what im trying to say is that you can almost let a pencil fall through so very non-restrictive.

honestly this whole thing was mainly about silence closely followed by looks and prestige but still with silence high up  there. so 0db isnt a thing since there a pump involved and me mechanical hard drives but i hope on having the fan barely spinning in idle. like literally the minimum amount to where the fans start having enough momentum to keep running without stopping. dont know what rpm that was right now but way low.

i guess ill see how low i can go in the end. but this is definitly not about OC. this is about silence and keeping it cool.

 

also as a side note i did get a bit concerned when i test fit it all. with  all rads in its getting quite heavy and when fully assembled and filled with water i fear its gonna be a 2 man job to move it :D 

 

so in order thats a 80 mil monsta 360 in the bottom with the lowest fin density then a 60 mil ut60 360 in the top with almost as low density and and a 45 mil xt45 360 in the back thats a bit denser but try finding low fpi rads that are somewhat "slimmer". just thinking about how a standard aio is 20-30 thicc makes me "excited". that means my "thinnest" rad is double that thiccness then triple and then quaddruple. i have high expectations for this thing. lets hope i dont mess up.

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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1 hour ago, For Science! said:

This build has been up and running for close to 2 years now and the temps are fine. Better to have a suffocated rad than a rad with no fans, or no rad. The tubing runs are also fine as the connections can be made and this case is not windowed anyway so how it looks is only secondary.

 

 

jesus christ i didnt even see the 2nd rad. just checked out your post about it. very nice. would love to do something like that myself some time honestly i dont know how my project got to be so big the original plan was a small watercooled system but somehow it grew and grew and grew. oh well...

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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1 hour ago, For Science! said:

 

hey weird idea but im just spitballin here.

since your mobo isnt even visible and yours and mine seem to be pretty much the same as far as layout goes. 

would you consider exchanging motherboard heatsinks? :D ill send you my dark grey ones and you send me your shiny silver ones?

just a random thought that popped into my head :D 

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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7 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

-

sorry no can do :S your heatsinks looks fine anyway ;)

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19 minutes ago, For Science! said:

sorry no can do :S your heatsinks looks fine anyway ;)

didnt really expect you too but god damn it would fit so much better. thinking about ordering the z370i on amazon swap heatsinks and send it back :D

"You know it'll clock down as soon as it hits 40°C, right?" - "Yeah ... but it doesnt hit 40°C ... ever  😄"

 

GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled) CPU: Ryzen 5600X (watercooled) RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX MB: Gigabyte B550i PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3

 

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