Which PSU is better?

[STlNG3R]

Hey,

 

Wanna change the psu in my system and i don't know which one is the best way to choose.

 

The selected psu's:

 

Corsair RMx Series RM750x 750W Gold (CP-9020092/155)

be quiet! Straight Power 11 750W Gold (BN283)

EVGA SuperNova 750 G2

Cooler Master V1000 1000W Gold (RSA00-AFBAG1-EU)

 

Mostly all of them is at the same price atm in my country.

 

My system:

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700x
GPU: EVGA GTX1080 FTW
SSD: Samsung 970 EVO
HDD: 2x WD Black 7200rpm
RAM: 2x G.Skill Aegis 8gb 3000Mhz

MBD: Asrock X470 Taichi

 

 

[hello_there_123]

which country

[STlNG3R]

1 minute ago, hello_there_123 said:

which country

Hungary

[hello_there_123]

straight power 11 then. See if there's cheaper options with 550W models also.

[Janick.Spielmann]

It doesn't matter. 

All have more power then you need. (Check https://outervision.com/b/mgf3cD) 

All are from known brands.
All have  a 90+ Gold rating.

 

Pick the brand you like or the cheapest one. 
There is no difference.  

PS. The Cooler Master V1000 1000W Gold (RSA00-AFBAG1-EU) is overkill anyway. exept you are planing to do 1080 4 way SLI 
 

 

[hello_there_123]

10 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

All have  a 90+ Gold rating.

ah yes, the legendary 90+ Gold rating

[SenKa]

Please check the pinned threads in this section for the updated PSU tier list. The higher the unit is on the list, the better. If all units are within the same "tier" they should be seen as relatively equal quality and you should buy whichever suits you best in terms of price and availability of custom issues.

 

What @Janick.Spielmann said is utter bollucks and I hope nobody listens to it. Yes, all brands listed are recognizable, but this is dangerous logic. The Seasonic 12II, for example, is made by one of if not the best PSU manufacturers in the world. But, it is a very old poorly regulated unit that is not suited for any modern system. This is true for all brands, and is why people need to do research on these things.

 

Want proof? See where the Seasonic S12II places on the aforementioned tier list compared to the Straight Power 11

[Janick.Spielmann]

7 minutes ago, hello_there_123 said:

ah yes, the legendary 90+ Gold rating

Well It's just a guideline. Why is there anything wrong with it? 

 

[flibberdipper]

7 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

Well It's just a guideline. Why is there anything wrong with it? 

 

90+ Gold isn't a thing.

[orbitalbuzzsaw]

You DO NOT need 750/1000w. 550 is more than fine.

[Janick.Spielmann]

11 hours ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

Please check the pinned threads in this section for the updated PSU tier list. The higher the unit is on the list, the better. If all units are within the same "tier" they should be seen as relatively equal quality and you should buy whichever suits you best in terms of price and availability of custom issues.

 

What @Janick.Spielmann said is utter bollucks and I hope nobody listens to it. Yes, all brands listed are recognizable, but this is dangerous logic. The Seasonic 12II, for example, is made by one of if not the best PSU manufacturers in the world. But, it is a very old poorly regulated unit that is not suited for any modern system. This is true for all brands, and is why people need to do research on these things.

 

Want proof? See where the Seasonic S12II places on the aforementioned tier list compared to the Straight Power 11

yeah sure but all PSU he has listed are not to old. If he dose not list a pump as a system part, I don't think he is water cooling anyway. You could take a PSU from the year 2000 and it would still work the same with the system (not that I would do that) the PSU dose nothing else then convert alternating to direct current, there is no magic in that. Newer units make this a little bit more efficient then old units and they are overall a bit better at it (less noice, less variation in the voltage and so on) but the end result is almost the same, your system is not faster if you get a 1000W PSU  

All his PSU are listet  at A  except the SuperNova that is not listed. But dose that make it a bad PSU??? Don't think so....
 

11 hours ago, flibberdipper said:

90+ Gold isn't a thing.

Yeah you are right. It is just an efficiency index. But if it can't pass gold I would not buy it anyway. 

[SenKa]

2 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

yeah sure but all PSU he has listed are not to old. If he dose not list a pump as a system part, I don't think he is water cooling anyway. You could take a PSU from the year 2000 and it would still work the same with the system (not that I would do that) the PSU dose nothing else then convert alternating to direct current, there is no magic in that. Newer units make this a little bit more efficient then old units and they are overall a bit better at it (less noice, less variation in the voltage and so on) but the end result is almost the same, your system is not faster if you get a 1000W PSU  

All his PSU are listet  at A  except the SuperNova that is not listed. But dose that make it a bad PSU??? Don't think so....
 

 

You don't know what you are talking about at all...

 

The biggest factors of PSU is their efficiency, that "80+ rating" next to all model names on listings. They are named as precious metals increasing in value ending with Platinum and starting with Bronze, and below that is the "White" 80+ which is below all others.

 

All models listed in this case, yes, are relatively new and IIRC all are 80+ gold, but even that opens itself up to quality differences in the caps used within the power supply, quietness of fan and bearing material.

 

In OP's case, he should pick between the Be Quiet, Rmx, and CM power supplies. The SuperNova was not listed more than likely because it is considered an old unit. Whichever is cheaper he should get, if price is the only object. If OP wants custom cables he should go with either the BeQuiet or RMx.

 

Please refrain from making uneducated or overly broad claims when answering tech questions. Your guidance has genuine consequences on peoples builds. 

[STlNG3R]

6 minutes ago, orbitalbuzzsaw said:

You DO NOT need 750/1000w. 550 is more than fine.

I know but actually there's no much difference in the prices between 550 vs 750. The reason i listed CM V1000 1000w Gold is because right now it's cheaper than a BQ Straight Power 11 650w.

 

10 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

If he dose not list a pump as a system part, I don't think he is water cooling anyway.

Got a little MasterLiquid ML240L RGB on the cpu and it's working verywell.

[Janick.Spielmann]

5 minutes ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

You don't know what you are talking about at all...

 

The biggest factors of PSU is their efficiency, that "80+ rating" next to all model names on listings. They are named as precious metals increasing in value ending with Platinum and starting with Bronze, and below that is the "White" 80+ which is below all others.

 

All models listed in this case, yes, are relatively new and IIRC all are 80+ gold, but even that opens itself up to quality differences in the caps used within the power supply, quietness of fan and bearing material.

 

In OP's case, he should pick between the Be Quiet, Rmx, and CM power supplies. The SuperNova was not listed more than likely because it is considered an old unit. Whichever is cheaper he should get, if price is the only object. If OP wants custom cables he should go with either the BeQuiet or RMx.

 

Please refrain from making uneducated or overly broad claims when answering tech questions. Your guidance has genuine consequences on peoples builds. 

 

20 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

yeah sure but all PSU he has listed are not to old. If he dose not list a pump as a system part, I don't think he is water cooling anyway. You could take a PSU from the year 2000 and it would still work the same with the system (not that I would do that) the PSU dose nothing else then convert alternating to direct current, there is no magic in that. Newer units make this a little bit more efficient then old units and they are overall a bit better at it (less noice, less variation in the voltage and so on) but the end result is almost the same, your system is not faster if you get a 1000W PSU  

All his PSU are listet  at A  except the SuperNova that is not listed. But dose that make it a bad PSU??? Don't think so....
 

 

If you would read my post you would notice that you are saying like 90% what I am saying.  just saying

 

 

 

[SenKa]

2 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

 

If you would read my post you would notice that you are saying like 90% what I am saying.  just saying

 

 

 

If that is the case then why would you:

A: Argue with me in the first place

 

B: Say something as blatantly, vague, wrong, and misleading such as

"It doesn't matter. 

All have more power then you need. (Check https://outervision.com/b/mgf3cD) 

All are from known brands.
All have  a 90+ Gold rating.

 

Pick the brand you like or the cheapest one. 
There is no difference."?

 

The last line was especially heinous.

[Janick.Spielmann]

38 minutes ago, flibberdipper said:

90+ Gold isn't a thing.

Woops I wanted to right 80+ btw. Yeah 90+ is not a thing. Sry

@SenpaiKaplan If you want to give me BS for that you are more then welcome. I work for a PC manufacturer and this should not happen oc. 
 

 

[STlNG3R]

Oh god what have i done. 

 

I will give a shot to Straight Power 11. Thanks for the help!

[Spotty]

4 minutes ago, STlNG3R said:

I know but actually there's no much difference in the prices between 550 vs 750. The reason i listed CM V1000 1000w Gold is because right now it's cheaper than a BQ Straight Power 11 650w.

What price range are we talking about? Do you have a link to a website you're looking at buying from?

Your system with a Ryzen 2700x and GTX 1080 will require less than 400w. The units you're looking at all start at 550w. If you can save money with the 550w variants, then I'd choose the 550w models. If they're the same price or cheaper than the 550w variants, getting a 750w unit won't hurt either. Honestly wouldn't surprise me if the 750w+ models were the same price or cheaper than some of the others in Hungary. It's not uncommon in some markets. As for the 1000w PSU being cheap, a possible explanation is a lot of stores stocked up on high wattage PSUs during the mining craze and now that the value of cryptocoins has plummeted no-one is buying them.

All the PSUs you listed would be fine for your build. My pick would be either the RMx or Straight Power 11. The EVGA G2 isn't horrible, but compared to the others listed it's not as good. The CoolerMaster V1000 is just unnecessary.

 

1 hour ago, STlNG3R said:

Wanna change the psu in my system and i don't know which one is the best way to choose

What is your current PSU?

 

3 minutes ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

You don't know what you are talking about at all...

 

The biggest factors of PSU is their efficiency, that "80+ rating" next to all model names on listings. They are named as precious metals increasing in value ending with Platinum and starting with Bronze, and below that is the "White" 80+ which is below all others.

 

All models listed in this case, yes, are relatively new and IIRC all are 80+ gold, but even that opens itself up to quality differences in the caps used within the power supply, quietness of fan and bearing material.

Please refrain from making uneducated or overly broad claims when answering tech questions. Your guidance has genuine consequences on peoples builds.  

Please don't tell people they don't know what they're talking about if you think the most important aspects of a PSU are its 80+ efficiency rating and the capacitors used.

As far as the 80+ efficiency rating scheme; White > Bronze > Silver > Gold > Platinum > Titanium. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus

It's important to note that this is purely a measure of efficiency, and says nothing about the quality of a unit.

 

1 hour ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

All have more power then you need. (Check https://outervision.com/b/mgf3cD) 

All are from known brands.

That's correct, however outervision tends to overestimate by a not insignificant amount. Best practice is to look up the power consumption figures for the parts used and base your figures from that.
You can't choose a PSU based on its brand. All of the brands listed there have some high end stuff as well as some low end stuff that isn't suitable for OPs system. Corsair VS, Be Quiet System Power 9, EVGA N1, EVGA W1, Cooler Master Lite, etc...

 

23 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

All his PSU are listet  at A  except the SuperNova that is not listed. But dose that make it a bad PSU??? Don't think so....

10 minutes ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

The SuperNova was not listed more than likely because it is considered an old unit.

The EVGA G2 is listed in the PSU tier list. It's currently listed in Tier A+
 

Quote

Tier A+ (High-end)

• EVGA - P2, T2, G2, PS

 

[Janick.Spielmann]

Just now, SenpaiKaplan said:

If that is the case then why would you:

A: Argue with me in the first place

 

B: Say something as blatantly, vague, wrong, and misleading such as

"It doesn't matter. 

All have more power then you need. (Check https://outervision.com/b/mgf3cD) 

All are from known brands.
All have  a 90+ Gold rating.

 

Pick the brand you like or the cheapest one. 
There is no difference."?

 

The last line was especially heinous.

So I am not calling it "A " but you stared with calling me a BSter in your first post! I work for a power company and I know a hell lot more about transformers and rectifier then the ones in a PC PSU so that got me a little bit triggered   That was dumb  

 

What I sad is what I believe to be true. 

1. You check what you need (In this case how much power) 
2. You look up if there are any recognisable brands you may have worked in the past or are known for there good quality.
3. You check the specs. In this case, like you pointed out previously especially 80+ rating (where I would never go for less then Gold)
4. You look at Lists like the LTT Tier list (did not know that one yet, but there are others out there that are more or less the same)

5. You are now free to choose whatever you like) 

That is how I select my PSU. How do you do it? 

PS. I already wrote that I meant to write 80+ Gold. I AM SORRY FOR THAT TYPO !!!.

[Janick.Spielmann]

9 minutes ago, Spotty said:

That's correct, however outervision tends to overestimate by a not insignificant amount. Best practice is to look up the power consumption figures for the parts used and base your figures from that.
You can't choose a PSU based on its brand. All of the brands listed there have some high end stuff as well as some low end stuff that isn't suitable for OPs system. Corsair VS, Be Quiet System Power 9, EVGA N1, EVGA W1, Cooler Master Lite, etc...

Totally agree with you on that one outervision is overestimating, but to be honest I don't know a single build in that price range that the PSU is not an overkill. Most people get a 650 or even a 750W PSU for a system that needs 550W max. So I always recommend outervision to people to be on the safe side. Is there something wrong with that or is there a better way to do this the fast way?  Oc you can count all the different components but at the end you might safe about 10$ on a PSU that lasts you a "lifetime".

[Janick.Spielmann]

18 minutes ago, Spotty said:

The EVGA G2 is listed in the PSU tier list. It's currently listed in Tier A+

Ups my bad

 

19 minutes ago, Spotty said:

As far as the 80+ efficiency rating scheme; White > Bronze > Silver > Gold > Platinum > Titanium. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus

It's important to note that this is purely a measure of efficiency, and says nothing about the quality of a unit.

Totally agree again. 

 

[STlNG3R]

35 minutes ago, Spotty said:

What price range are we talking about? Do you have a link to a website you're looking at buying from?

120-150€ (40.000-50.000 Ft) / https://www.arukereso.hu/tapegyseg-c3158/raktaron/

 

35 minutes ago, Spotty said:

What is your current PSU?

FSP Hydro GE 650W which is going back to FSP because it's shutdown the system when playing heavy games. /Used before a Hungarian forum and they said it's a good psu/ Tried it with a cheap 5 years old Cooler Master Elite Power Plus 600W and no problems with it.

[SenKa]

Would like to apologize to @Janick.Spielmann for being overly aggressive and being a partial hypocrite (as @Spotty pointed out) by making broad and partially incorrect claims.

 

Bad days man, we all have em 

[Janick.Spielmann]

Just now, SenpaiKaplan said:

Would like to apologize to @Janick.Spielmann for being overly aggressive and being a partial hypocrite (as @Spotty pointed out) by making broad and partially incorrect claims.

 

Bad days man, we all have em 

Sure  NP  I just wanted to help. No hard feelings. 

[Spotty]

14 minutes ago, Janick.Spielmann said:

Totally agree with you on that one outervision is overestimating, but to be honest I don't know a single build in that price range that the PSU is not an overkill. Most people get a 650 or even a 750W PSU for a system that needs 550W max. So I always recommend outervision to people to be on the safe side. Is there something wrong with that or is there a better way to do this the fast way?  Oc you can count all the different components but at the end you might safe about 10$ on a PSU that lasts you a "lifetime".

Yeah, 750w is pretty much overkill for any single card system. Most single card systems will run perfectly fine on a quality 550w unit, with the exception of maybe some heavily overclocked or HEDT systems paired with high end cards (Threadripper, Skylake-X, Overclocked 9900k, etc).

If you have a decent idea about the parts you can just ballpark guess what it will use under a max heavy load. For example, the Ryzen 2700x would be around 100w during Prime95 or similar CPU stress test. GTX 1080 would be around 225w or so during a gaming load (vsync disabled), maybe a little more if it's a factory OC'd card. The rest of the system doesn't really use much, but I usually just add on an extra 50w or so to cover the chipset, RAM, HDDs, SSDs, fans, etc. That's how I came up with my "Less than 400w" figure from earlier.

If you want a more exact figure then look up reviews which include power consumption tests for the parts used. Tom's Hardware is usually pretty good with its power consumption tests as they test the individual component using current clamps as well as equipment designed to measure the power delivered over the motherboard PCIe slot.
You just have to be careful to pay attention to what the reviewer is testing, as some will just measure the entire system power consumption rather than the individual component being reviewed.

You're right that you don't need to be exact down to the last watt, but just 'close enough' to give the person an idea of how much power it will use so they can choose something suitable. From my experience Outervision tends to overestimate by at least 100w, sometimes by several hundred watts if the user adjusts the overclock sliders...
Most of the time it doesn't really matter if someone is looking at a 450w or 550w unit, and that $10 isn't going to make a huge difference unless they're on an extremely tight budget. I mainly just like to give them an idea of how much their system will use since we often see a lot of threads with someone looking to buy a 750w or 850w PSU for their system that only requires 250w simply because they don't really understand how much wattage they actually need. Sometimes people read the recommended PSU wattage on the GPU website that says "Recommended 500w PSU" and think that the graphics card alone uses 500w. Sometimes just need to help people understand what's going on and what they actually need. It's better to spend $70 on a good quality 550w PSU than it is to spend $70 on a crappy 850w PSU.