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Common mistakes when installing AIO Liquid Cooler

So I’ve been reading that leakage in a AIO liquid coolers, Is users fault/user error when installing, is that true.   I was wondering what’s the proper way of installing an AIO Liquid Cooler to prevent leaks

My PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor (4.4Ghz), MOBO: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ Intel Wave 2 WiFi/M.2), RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15, GPU: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards, STORAGE: 120GB CRUCIAL SSD, 1TB WD BLUE, COOLER: Cooler Master 212 EVO RGB Black Edition, FANS: 4 x MasterFan MF120R RGB (2 Front, 1 Back, 1 Top), 1 x Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1700 RPM(Back off Cooler), PC CASE: Cooler Master MB500 case, PSU: EVGA 750 BQ.

 

My Kids PC:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 (95watt @3.5Ghz @1.40V), MOBO: ASUS M2A-VM, RAM: Kingston 8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz, GPU: nVidia GT 710 2GB DDR3 (OC’ed Clock to 1300Mhz and Memory to 950Mhz), STORAGE: 250GB HDD, 500GB HDD, COOLER:  Cooler Master 212 EVO, PC CASE: Cooler Master Q300L , FANS: 3 x upHere RED LED Fans (2 Front, 1 Back), PSU: Generic 300 Watt PSU.

 

Console:  PS4 - vjizzle2384

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Just treat it with care is my advice. Don't force anything. They are still reliable devices. If you are unsure the best thing I could suggest is watching jayztwocents on YouTube to get a better understanding of how to install water cooled parts.

 

And make sure you take any plastics off the thermal exchange plate. That is a common error. 

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Another question are the tubes where it connects to the pump and to the radiator are those glued or clamped paired

My PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor (4.4Ghz), MOBO: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ Intel Wave 2 WiFi/M.2), RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15, GPU: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards, STORAGE: 120GB CRUCIAL SSD, 1TB WD BLUE, COOLER: Cooler Master 212 EVO RGB Black Edition, FANS: 4 x MasterFan MF120R RGB (2 Front, 1 Back, 1 Top), 1 x Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1700 RPM(Back off Cooler), PC CASE: Cooler Master MB500 case, PSU: EVGA 750 BQ.

 

My Kids PC:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 (95watt @3.5Ghz @1.40V), MOBO: ASUS M2A-VM, RAM: Kingston 8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz, GPU: nVidia GT 710 2GB DDR3 (OC’ed Clock to 1300Mhz and Memory to 950Mhz), STORAGE: 250GB HDD, 500GB HDD, COOLER:  Cooler Master 212 EVO, PC CASE: Cooler Master Q300L , FANS: 3 x upHere RED LED Fans (2 Front, 1 Back), PSU: Generic 300 Watt PSU.

 

Console:  PS4 - vjizzle2384

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From what i have seen,Buy a higher end well known brand.Follow the install instructions and dont touch it after that.You can dust it with air but not man handle it around.The ones that have leaked i know of,Are lower end cheaper brands.Or the owner has removed it and reinstalled it a few times.Either upgrading stuff a lot or reusing it on the next build.If you install it and right and leave it alone i have seen the high end brands go 5 years before the pump dies on it.

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7 minutes ago, andrewmp6 said:

From what i have seen,Buy a higher end well known brand.Follow the install instructions and dont touch it after that.You can dust it with air but not man handle it around.The ones that have leaked i know of,Are lower end cheaper brands.Or the owner has removed it and reinstalled it a few times.Either upgrading stuff a lot or reusing it on the next build.If you install it and right and leave it alone i have seen the high end brands go 5 years before the pump dies on it.

 Yeah I really don’t care about the pump dying I can get that replaced easy the biggest problem is leakage I wish they would put a liquid in these coolers that would not hurt the computer so if it does leak we just wipe it up or let it dry 

My PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor (4.4Ghz), MOBO: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ Intel Wave 2 WiFi/M.2), RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15, GPU: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards, STORAGE: 120GB CRUCIAL SSD, 1TB WD BLUE, COOLER: Cooler Master 212 EVO RGB Black Edition, FANS: 4 x MasterFan MF120R RGB (2 Front, 1 Back, 1 Top), 1 x Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1700 RPM(Back off Cooler), PC CASE: Cooler Master MB500 case, PSU: EVGA 750 BQ.

 

My Kids PC:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 (95watt @3.5Ghz @1.40V), MOBO: ASUS M2A-VM, RAM: Kingston 8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz, GPU: nVidia GT 710 2GB DDR3 (OC’ed Clock to 1300Mhz and Memory to 950Mhz), STORAGE: 250GB HDD, 500GB HDD, COOLER:  Cooler Master 212 EVO, PC CASE: Cooler Master Q300L , FANS: 3 x upHere RED LED Fans (2 Front, 1 Back), PSU: Generic 300 Watt PSU.

 

Console:  PS4 - vjizzle2384

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If the pump dies in a aio the whole thing is trash you can't replace it.If your talking about non conductive coolant,Well it will turn conductive over time picking up metals from the loop its in.Look up the manufacturer warranty on a aio before you buy.Some will replace any part their leaking aio kills off.That will be the high end brands aio.I see you have a 2600x any reason you want a aio?It will be a little quieter but temps a aio might run 10 degrees cooler then that stock heatsink does.

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Just checked the resistance of Pure Distilled water vs. Distilled water treated with standard EK CryoFuel vs. Well Water in a small plastic Sumo cup. For Science.

 

Distilled Water: 4.5 MOhms

DW w/CryoFuel: 9.75 MOhms

Well Water: 650KOhms

 

Lower = more conductive

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

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5 minutes ago, knightslugger said:

Just checked the resistance of Pure Distilled water vs. Distilled water treated with standard EK CryoFuel vs. Well Water in a small plastic Sumo cup. For Science.

 

Distilled Water: 4.5 MOhms

DW w/CryoFuel: 9.75 MOhms

Well Water: 650KOhms

 

Lower = more conductive

This for AIO 

My PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor (4.4Ghz), MOBO: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ Intel Wave 2 WiFi/M.2), RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15, GPU: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards, STORAGE: 120GB CRUCIAL SSD, 1TB WD BLUE, COOLER: Cooler Master 212 EVO RGB Black Edition, FANS: 4 x MasterFan MF120R RGB (2 Front, 1 Back, 1 Top), 1 x Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1700 RPM(Back off Cooler), PC CASE: Cooler Master MB500 case, PSU: EVGA 750 BQ.

 

My Kids PC:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 (95watt @3.5Ghz @1.40V), MOBO: ASUS M2A-VM, RAM: Kingston 8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz, GPU: nVidia GT 710 2GB DDR3 (OC’ed Clock to 1300Mhz and Memory to 950Mhz), STORAGE: 250GB HDD, 500GB HDD, COOLER:  Cooler Master 212 EVO, PC CASE: Cooler Master Q300L , FANS: 3 x upHere RED LED Fans (2 Front, 1 Back), PSU: Generic 300 Watt PSU.

 

Console:  PS4 - vjizzle2384

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Just now, vjizzle2384 said:

This for AIO 

You think they just throw some DW in there and call it a day? From what i've seen of teardowns, i don't believe that's the case.

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

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