New to water cooling. Building a new full custom loop and I need advice.

[Jax_-]

Ok so I decided not to hack a loop and Frankenstein something together and just go with a childhood dream. I want to build a copper based loop but with that being said I do not want to purchase everything all at once. It will be a project of mine because of financial to get done over a 2 to 4 month period. I am looking for advice mostly on different companies or brands to go with and which parts would benefit me better.

 

My system specs are as follows.

 

Corsair Graphite Series 780T Full Tower

 

64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 3200Mhz DDR4 Ram

 

Asus X99 Pro USB 3.1 LGA 2011-v3

 

Intel I7 6950X 

 

Toughpower 1,200W PSU fully modular

 

Intel 750 series PCIe NVME 1.2TB and 800GB.

 

SLI GTX 970s ' Never upgraded cause market sky rocketed ' I will be upgrading to a 1070 or something in 2000 series. 

 

Using a deepcool storm captain 120mm AIO to hold me over after my Corsair H115I 240mm just died. 

 

I want to use a dual or triple rad loop but Im fine with getting the res, pump and blocks first and tubing, fittings and rads at a later time. I have to buy portions of this every month untik I have a full loop to build which I will install into my system at a later date but I would appreciate ideas now.

 

Also my PC is white, the case, mobo and current aio and all of my fans are. I use RGB LED lighting  with 32 colors and a controller to change it if I need or want to rather. 

 

I appreciate all of the help anyone gives me. Thank you in advance for taking your time!

 

I believe I will be going with a 360MM, 240MM and 120MM rad setup but might go with 360MM and 2 240MMs. 

 

XSPC is really the only company I know of as someone suggested it in another thread I made about fixing the pump that died. So I am good with every single persons suggestions, ideas or concerns! Throw it at me barney style!

 

 

[Enderman]

If you're not at the point where you can choose what components and what brands to get your watercooling parts from then that means you haven't done enough research into watercooling.

I would recommend you learn a bit more before attempting to build a custom loop.

[Jax_-]

3 minutes ago, Enderman said:

If you're not at the point where you can choose what components and what brands to get your watercooling parts from then that means you haven't done enough research into watercooling.

I would recommend you learn a bit more before attempting to build a custom loop.

Im learning now, I know the parts I need. I just dont know what companies or designers that are worth going with. Id rather ask questions now, find what I want and then ask questions again and make sure I check my boxes off and be safer than sorry if that makes sense. 

[Master Disaster]

The one and only rule, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING YOU BUY IS COPPER!!! That means copper rads, copper blocks, copper fittings. Don't mix metals.

 

Go and watch Linuses recent video on building a copper loop as it's full of useful information on building the loop, cutting the copper pipe, polishing the pipes and bending thd pipes.

 

For your system a single 240mm rad and a single 360mm rad should be plenty. Alphacool, and EK are the 2 biggest names in the business, stick with either of these and you'll be fine. For the GPU blocks go with EK. Fitting size is usually G1/4 however i don't know if it's the same for copper piping or not?

[Enderman]

6 minutes ago, Jax_- said:

Im learning now, I know the parts I need. I just dont know what companies or designers that are worth going with. Id rather ask questions now, find what I want and then ask questions again and make sure I check my boxes off and be safer than sorry if that makes sense. 

Well the first tip is to not buy everything from the same place. There is no brand that makes the best of every component.

I would suggest looking at singularitycomputers on youtube, and custom PC builders like SNEF to see what the best and most reliable brands are for which components.

That should give you a good idea of what you should get.

[Jax_-]

16 hours ago, Master Disaster said:

The one and only rule, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING YOU BUY IS COPPER!!! That means copper rads, copper blocks, copper fittings. Don't mix metals.

 

Go and watch Linuses recent video on building a copper loop as it's full of useful information on building the loop, cutting the copper pipe, polishing the pipes and bending thd pipes.

 

For your system a single 240mm rad and a single 360mm rad should be plenty. Alphacool, and EK are the 2 biggest names in the business, stick with either of these and you'll be fine. For the GPU blocks go with EK. Fitting size is usually G1/4 however i don't know if it's the same for copper piping or not?

Awesome so you just made me second guess myself. I want plastic tubing or whatever material its made from but that type of tubing. I wouldnt really want to use metal or acrylic. Maybe in the future Id go with hard tubing but for now the basic flexable tubing will work for me. Is that oossible in a copper loop or am I lost in the sauce. I have a severe tBI so my memory is bad and Im a little slower so dont mind me. 

 

Also your name reminds me of Professor Messer haha on youtube

also I did watch that video and jayztwocents and a plethora of other videos aswell. 

 

Oh also I saw that you can cool to nb and sb as well as the cpu. I also saw you can cool the ram in a loop too which is what id use 120MM for .. 360MM for cpu and 240mm for gpu or visa versa. Im not sure what would put off more heat.. I guess the gpus but the case layout would be a bit weird cooling those with a 360 cause that would be on the roof.

 

16 hours ago, Enderman said:

Well the first tip is to not buy everything from the same place. There is no brand that makes the best of every component.

I would suggest looking at singularitycomputers on youtube, and custom PC builders like SNEF to see what the best and most reliable brands are for which components.

That should give you a good idea of what you should get.

Thanks ill dig around ans see what I can find with those and I agree which is why Im trying to find names of places like you just gave me to locate different things. I expect to fail or find a better way even when I finish the loop. Id just prefer not to make to many mistakes along the way haha

[Enderman]

Just now, Jax_- said:

Thanks ill dig around ans see what I can find with those and I agree which is why Im trying to find names of places like you just gave me to locate different things. I expect to fail or find a better way even when I finish the loop. Id just prefer not to make to many mistakes along the way haha

Well the ones I recommend are EK for pumps/res/waterblocks, bitspower for fittings, mayhems/ek for tubing and fluids, hardwarelabs for radiators, and don't buy a DDC pump, only D5.

Hopefully you come to a similar conclusion from your research.

[Master Disaster]

12 minutes ago, Jax_- said:

Awesome so you just made me second guess myself. I want plastic tubing or whatever material its made from but that type of tubing. I wouldnt really want to use metal or acrylic. Maybe in the future Id go with hard tubing but for now the basic flexable tubing will work for me. Is that oossible in a copper loop or am I lost in the sauce. I have a severe tBI so my memory is bad and Im a little slower so dont mind me. 

 

Also your name reminds me of Professor Messer haha on youtube

also I did watch that video and jayztwocents and a plethora of other videos aswell. 

Well if you're using plastic tubing then the same rule applies, don't mix metals but yes, plastic tubing will work fine with a copper loop.

 

10 minutes ago, Jax_- said:

Oh also I saw that you can cool to nb and sb as well as the cpu. I also saw you can cool the ram in a loop too which is what id use 120MM for .. 360MM for cpu and 240mm for gpu or visa versa. Im not sure what would put off more heat.. I guess the gpus but the case layout would be a bit weird cooling those with a 360 cause that would be on the roof.

Don't bother cooling RAM, it's pointless. If you want to cool the PCH and VRMs then get a mono block (assuming you can find one for your board) otherwise a standard cpu block would be fine. VRM cooling is only required if you plan on extreme overclocking.

 

As for the rad question, why do 2 loops? That means 2 pumps & 2 reservoirs. Just run everything in one big loop. If you're intent on 2 loops then use the 240 for the CPU and the 360 for the GPUs but that's just overcomplicating things.

[Jax_-]

1 minute ago, Master Disaster said:

Well if you're using plastic tubing then the same rule applies, don't mix metals but yes, plastic tubing will work fine with a copper loop.

 

Don't bother cooling RAM, it's pointless. If you want to cool the PCH and VRMs then get a mono block (assuming you can find one for your board) otherwise a standard cpu block would be fine. VRM cooling is only required if you plan on extreme overclocking.

 

As for the rad question, why do 2 loops? That means 2 pumps & 2 reservoirs. Just run everything in one big loop. If you're intent on 2 loops then use the 240 for the CPU and the 360 for the GPUs but that's just overcomplicating things.

Well Ima noob, throw it at me like I said Barney Style cause I know Nada about the rights and wrongs of a loop. Ill do the single 360 and single 240 and Ill put the GPUs on the 360MM and 240MM on CPU. Good thing you told me about ram.. And extreme overclocking is a possibility.. But I dont know how important that would be so ill likely go with just the cpu block itself. I appreciate the advice on that seeing that it will save me a headache haha

[Master Disaster]

1 minute ago, Jax_- said:

Well Ima noob, throw it at me like I said Barney Style cause I know Nada about the rights and wrongs of a loop. Ill do the single 360 and single 240 and Ill put the GPUs on the 360MM and 240MM on CPU. Good thing you told me about ram.. And extreme overclocking is a possibility.. But I dont know how important that would be so ill likely go with just the cpu block itself. I appreciate the advice on that seeing that it will save me a headache haha

Remember that 2 loops means 2 reservoirs and 2 pumps plus extra fittings.

[Jax_-]

15 hours ago, Enderman said:

Well the ones I recommend are EK for pumps/res/waterblocks, bitspower for fittings, mayhems/ek for tubing and fluids, hardwarelabs for radiators, and don't buy a DDC pump, only D5.

Hopefully you come to a similar conclusion from your research.

Awesome I aopreciate the help with those names! I will be uodating on this thread as I choose parts and stuff so ill make sure to reply to everyone thats helped so you guus can all see

 

15 hours ago, Master Disaster said:

Remember that 2 loops means 2 reservoirs and 2 pumps plus extra fittings.

I dont plan to do 2 loops, which is why that helped me cause I want to prevent that haha, id run the res directly to the 240MM radiator then run that to the gpus which willrun directly to the 360MM whivh will run to the cpu then to the res and back into the start of it. I thought you could run 3 rads in a single loop lol.. So I thought maybe Id cool the ram with a 120MM rad but even if I did that id need 2 lol cause I have ddr4 quad channel ram and wouldnt it need seperate blocks for the 2 halfs of the board if I did end up doing it.. I likely wont but will be good to know. 

 

I found a monoblock for my mobo https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-x99-monoblock-nickel only its nickel bleh

[Master Disaster]

4 minutes ago, Jax_- said:

I dont plan to do 2 loops, which is why that helped me cause I want to prevent that haha, id run the res directly to the 240MM radiator then run that to the gpus which willrun directly to the 360MM whivh will run to the cpu then to the res and back into the start of it. I thought you could run 3 rads in a single loop lol.. So I thought maybe Id cool the ram with a 120MM rad but even if I did that id need 2 lol cause I have ddr4 quad channel ram and wouldnt it need seperate blocks for the 2 halfs of the board if I did end up doing it.. I likely wont but will be good to know. 

That's not how it works, water always tries to equalise its temperature across the entire loop so assuming everything is connected together then everything is cooling everything. It's because of this concept that loop order does not matter.

 

Essential both rads will be cooling everything they're connected too equally.

[Jax_-]

14 hours ago, Master Disaster said:

That's not how it works, water always tries to equalise its temperature across the entire loop so assuming everything is connected together then everything is cooling everything. It's because of this concept that loop order does not matter.

 

Essential both rads will be cooling everything they're connected too equally.

Ok good info I appreciate it!

 

14 hours ago, Master Disaster said:

That's not how it works, water always tries to equalise its temperature across the entire loop so assuming everything is connected together then everything is cooling everything. It's because of this concept that loop order does not matter.

 

Essential both rads will be cooling everything they're connected too equally.

Hey any advice if I were to want to use this. It says, "The waterblock top and new high performance base are CNC machined from pure copper, while the bracket is made from cnc'd aluminium with an acrylic insert for LED lighting." is all that matters the base and that its copper? Im a little confused.. 

[Neo-revo]

8 hours ago, Jax_- said:

Im a little confused.. 

the warnings about mixed metals relates to the position of said metals on the Periodic Chart of elements. Galvanic corrosion occurs when a fluid is which is oxidized/mineralized/potentiated  with time movement and the energy of input will cause a corrosive reaction.  (corrosion is physical oxidization and in some cases forms a protective barrier until removed or can also cause major structural effects)   It all depends on the 'noble'  positioning on the Periodic chart, and the contact method, (inert fluids will slow/stop reactions): which is why people recommend Manufactured fluids/ anti corrosive additives if you don't fully understand and confident in the exposed metals in the Loop.  But be aware that even some of these lose effectiveness over time, so its best to just not mix very dissimilar metals.

 

An aluminum hold down/fastener  is acceptable provided the metal never comes in contact with the loop fluid(out side use only)  Radiator fin shroud/ block retention mount/ outer compression ring for hardline fitting.

[W-L]

8 hours ago, Jax_- said:

Hey any advice if I were to want to use this. It says, "The waterblock top and new high performance base are CNC machined from pure copper, while the bracket is made from cnc'd aluminium with an acrylic insert for LED lighting." is all that matters the base and that its copper? Im a little confused.. 

Drop a link to the block you're looking at, as suggested earlier if you want to just get your hand started in this at a lower cost the fluid gaming kits would be a good stepping stone. 

[ewitte]

16 hours ago, Master Disaster said:

The one and only rule, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING YOU BUY IS COPPER!!! That means copper rads, copper blocks, copper fittings. Don't mix metals.

 

Go and watch Linuses recent video on building a copper loop as it's full of useful information on building the loop, cutting the copper pipe, polishing the pipes and bending thd pipes.

 

For your system a single 240mm rad and a single 360mm rad should be plenty. Alphacool, and EK are the 2 biggest names in the business, stick with either of these and you'll be fine. For the GPU blocks go with EK. Fitting size is usually G1/4 however i don't know if it's the same for copper piping or not?

I had ghetto custom a LONG time ago 10+ years funny how everything now days has to be perfect Used a Bonneville heatercore ( I believe a 1970's model)...

[Jax_-]

14 hours ago, Neo-revo said:

the warnings about mixed metals relates to the position of said metals on the Periodic Chart of elements. Galvanic corrosion occurs when a fluid is which is oxidized/mineralized/potentiated  with time movement and the energy of input will cause a corrosive reaction.  (corrosion is physical oxidization and in some cases forms a protective barrier until removed or can also cause major structural effects)   It all depends on the 'noble'  positioning on the Periodic chart, and the contact method, (inert fluids will slow/stop reactions): which is why people recommend Manufactured fluids/ anti corrosive additives if you don't fully understand and confident in the exposed metals in the Loop.  But be aware that even some of these lose effectiveness over time, so its best to just not mix very dissimilar metals.

 

An aluminum hold down/fastener  is acceptable provided the metal never comes in contact with the loop fluid(out side use only)  Radiator fin shroud/ block retention mount/ outer compression ring for hardline fitting.

Thanks for that, makes sense. 

[Jax_-]

13 hours ago, W-L said:

Drop a link to the block you're looking at, as suggested earlier if you want to just get your hand started in this at a lower cost the fluid gaming kits would be a good stepping stone. 

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-RayStorm-WaterBlock-Intel-White/dp/B07613MZVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541934985&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ekwb+white+copper+waterblock

[Jax_-]

 

14 hours ago, W-L said:

Drop a link to the block you're looking at, as suggested earlier if you want to just get your hand started in this at a lower cost the fluid gaming kits would be a good stepping stone. 

 

23 hours ago, Master Disaster said:

That's not how it works, water always tries to equalise its temperature across the entire loop so assuming everything is connected together then everything is cooling everything. It's because of this concept that loop order does not matter.

 

Essential both rads will be cooling everything they're connected too equally.

Btw all if I dont get back to yall until late tomorrow night I am Retired US Army vet and I have several veteran events to be at tomorrow for schools and such so I will get back to you all asap.

[W-L]

1 hour ago, Jax_- said:

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-RayStorm-WaterBlock-Intel-White/dp/B07613MZVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541934985&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ekwb+white+copper+waterblock

That’s ones not a problem the parts that make contact with the fluid are all copper based.

[Jax_-]

On 11/12/2018 at 5:09 AM, W-L said:

That’s ones not a problem the parts that make contact with the fluid are all copper based.

So Im not sure if my question is making sense or if I am not understanding but the water block itself says it has a copper block so it doesnt matter that it also has aluminium also built onto the block? I just want to make sure that mixed metals in that sense is ok?

[Jax_-]

On 11/12/2018 at 5:09 AM, W-L said:

That’s ones not a problem the parts that make contact with the fluid are all copper based.

Nvm der de der I am being slow and ditsy. I re read what you wrote ans you answered my question haha

[Jax_-]

On 11/12/2018 at 5:09 AM, W-L said:

That’s ones not a problem the parts that make contact with the fluid are all copper based.

Hey so Ive decided to go with hard tubing. I couldnt ask you to give me some guidance on how to figure out pump and res fitting sizes and how to match those to the tubing size. Im not trying to be an idiot.. Im just having a hard time wrapping my brain around it and for some reason its not computing properly. 

[W-L]

1 hour ago, Jax_- said:

Hey so Ive decided to go with hard tubing. I couldnt ask you to give me some guidance on how to figure out pump and res fitting sizes and how to match those to the tubing size. Im not trying to be an idiot.. Im just having a hard time wrapping my brain around it and for some reason its not computing properly. 

The waterblocks, pumps and everything will all use the standard G1/4" thread as for the tube and fitting size as long as the OD of the tubing and ID of the hardline compression fitting match they will be compatible.

 

For example this:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-16mm-g1-4-black-6344

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-petg-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2pcs

[PhantomHawk11]

Couple things - when I first built my loop, I used EK's configurator to find roughly what I needed then bought from elsewhere. I recommend PPCS if you are in the US. HWlabs make great radiators, specifically their GTS and GTX series, I would go with two 360s. For fittings, Barrow makes affordable, good looking and well made fittings. Heatkiller and EK make great cpu/gpu waterblocks, and get a d5 pump. The rest of the components to really matter to which from company to company to company. I would avoid thermaltake as well