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Custom-built compact speakers

Welcome to another small electronics project! :)

 

I decided to build a set of compact stereo speakers for use as a family member's tv speakers.

The goal was to make a small set of good-sounding speakers with good bass.

 

Parts list:

2x Dayton Audio ND105-4 4" Aluminum Cone 4 Ohm midbass drivers

Image result for dayton nd105

 

2x Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8" soft dome neodymium tweeters

Image result for dayton 16-fa

 

Dayton Audio DTA-2 Class T digital amplifier

Image result for dayton dta2

 

2x cheap Uxcell crossovers from Amazon

Image result for uxcell crossovers

 

Sure Electronics PS-SP11111 12 VDC 3A power brick

Image result for shure 3a 12v power brick

 

½” thick MDF, 2ft x 4ft panel

Image result for mdf 1/2" 2ft x 4ft

 

2x semi-gloss spray paint cans

Image result for tremclad professional paint

 

Pricing:

Currency:

USD

CAD

Woofers

$53.80

$69.45

Tweeters

$19.28

$24.89

Amplifier

$19.90

$25.69

Crossovers

$11.81

$15.25

Power brick

$16.50

$21.30

MDF panel

$7.55

$9.75

Spray paint cans (x2)

$17.09

$22.58

Total cost:

$145.93

$188.91

 

The cost of screws and wood glue were not included in the price of the project.

Overall, the speakers are fairly affordable at less than $150 USD for all the components, but it could have been cheaper if I had used some less expensive midrange drivers.

I didn't though, because I love how the Dayton Audio ones look.

 

Renders:

Render 4.png

 

Render 5.png

 

Render 6.png

 

Render 3.png

 

Render 2.png

 

Render 1.png

 

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Build process:

Done gluing and sanding:

IMG_0001.JPG

Indent for volume knob:

IMG_0005.JPG

Done painting:

IMG_0003.JPG

Volume knob inserted:

IMG_0006.JPG

Electronics mounted inside:

IMG_0010.JPG

Finished:

file.png

 

Conclusion:

Overall I am really pleased with how the speakers turned out.

They worked on the first try, and can reach really loud volume levels even though the amplifier is only 15W/ch and the speakers I am using are 40W/ch,

The paint could have looked better if I had sanded with finer sandpaper and possibly used primer, but from a few meters away they look perfect, and that's how they will usually be seen.

:)

Thanks for reading!

 

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Id screw the speakers in from the back. It normally looks better that way.

 

You can also get a open frame psu and mount it to the inside so you don't need a power brick

 

Something like this http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/PJT-12V65WBAA/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhv%2f8uILPUUhLAb3yFTTiq53ogyq%2fdXOMxfGW03h51%2bLdn416K2vfLP

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4 minutes ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

Id screw the speakers in from the back. It normally looks better that way.

 

You can also get a open frame psu and mount it to the inside so you don't need a power brick

 

Something like this http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/PJT-12V65WBAA/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhv%2f8uILPUUhLAb3yFTTiq53ogyq%2fdXOMxfGW03h51%2bLdn416K2vfLP

That would not have fit inside :P But good idea for the future.

Also it would not really look better, it would be 1/2" inset with a not-so-great looking cut out circle...

 

Just now, CptLameJokes said:

 

What is a potato?

The in progress and finished pictures which I will post after eating dinner :)

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3 minutes ago, CptLameJokes said:

 

What is a potato?

Potatoes: mash 'em, boil 'em, stick 'em in a stew.

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5 minutes ago, CptLameJokes said:

 

What is a potato?

Potato is love

Potato is life

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2 minutes ago, ARikozuM said:

Potatoes: mash 'em, boil 'em, stick 'em in a stew.

god i love lotr.  

@Enderman i am interested to see where this goes as i liked the flashlight project.

 

 

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Looks like a decent build. Love those little Dayton nd105's. They pack a punch for their size. Just a fair warning though, You will need much more than just two cans of paint. Mdf absorbs the stuff like a sponge. You're going to want a few coats of high build primer to make sure the mdf wont absorb the base coat of paint. Also make sure to sand and prep the surface well. I recommend starting with 150 grit and ending around 220 grit on the mdf. For sanding the primer smooth i would use 400 grit and move to a higher grit such as 1000 from there for a smooth finish.

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3 minutes ago, bob345 said:

Looks like a decent build. Love those little Dayton nd105's. They pack a punch for their size. Just a fair warning though, You will need much more than just two cans of paint. Mdf absorbs the stuff like a sponge. You're going to want a few coats of high build primer to make sure the mdf wont absorb the base coat of paint. Also make sure to sand and prep the surface well. I recommend starting with 150 grit and ending around 220 grit on the mdf. For sanding the primer smooth i would use 400 grit and move to a higher grit such as 1000 from there for a smooth finish.

Yeah, they are already done, but i've learnt I need to use finer sandpaper and a primer.

It doesn't look bad, but it could definitely be better and the difference between the side and surface of the MDF could have been hidden.

It's all a learning process :) Will post the pics in a few minutes.

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Just now, Enderman said:

Yeah, they are already done, but i've learnt I need to use finer sandpaper and a primer.

It doesn't look bad, but it could definitely be better and the difference between the side and surface of the MDF could have been hidden.

It's all a learning process :) Will post the pics in a few minutes.

Nice! And yeah, the edges are always the hardest thing to deal with when it comes to mdf. Though i still love mdf for the way it sands and cuts. You can do some crazy stuff with mdf with just an average table saw and router.

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3 minutes ago, bob345 said:

Nice! And yeah, the edges are always the hardest thing to deal with when it comes to mdf. Though i still love mdf for the way it sands and cuts. You can do some crazy stuff with mdf with just an average table saw and router.

Next speaker project I do will be a sub, and I plan to use baltic birth for that instead, since tons of people recommend it for being more rigid and durable :)

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More pics:

 

HEATSINK FOR THE AMP!

IMG_0011.JPG

 

Crossover mounted inside:

IMG_0008.JPG

 

Inputs:

IMG_0013.JPG

 

Size comparison to laptop:

IMG_0021.JPG

 

A cute pair :)

IMG_0022.JPG

 

Close up:

IMG_0032.JPG

 

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I'm not a sound engineer but I used to work at a PA company back in high school. They like to stuff thick woolly cotton sheets into their speakers. Line the surfaces inside and claims it sounds better...

 

I don't know.. give it a try maybe?

The Internet is invented by cats. Why? Why else would it have so much cat videos?

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1 hour ago, Huntsman said:

I'm not a sound engineer but I used to work at a PA company back in high school. They like to stuff thick woolly cotton sheets into their speakers. Line the surfaces inside and claims it sounds better...

 

I don't know.. give it a try maybe?

Polyester fill.

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4 hours ago, Huntsman said:

I'm not a sound engineer but I used to work at a PA company back in high school. They like to stuff thick woolly cotton sheets into their speakers. Line the surfaces inside and claims it sounds better...

 

I don't know.. give it a try maybe?

Yeah, polyfill helps fake a bigger enclosure. :)

I didn't put any in here because the speakers are already so small it wouldn't make a significant difference.

It would also heat up the amp more than it already does in a closed box.

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Video, in case you want to see the speakers playing music:

:)

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1 hour ago, jonathan_g said:

Looks great! 

Thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...

you need a dampening material so you have a dampening factor inside of the enclosure. Stick some polyfill in there.

 I can't tell if you have a gasket on the woofer to the enclosure, you should probably make one out of closed cell foam.

 

User some silicone internally around where the wire exits and enters the 2nd speaker.

PEWDIEPIE DONT CROSS THAT BRIDGE

 

 

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Hmmm , I really like this. How ever , I really did think that it was a sratch build , Meaning that assembling the speaker unit with its parts.

BTW , Can you replace the make a steel or carbon fiber enclosur case ? And Ofc , the wood does effect sound quality and the acoustics.

(⌐■_■) 

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2 hours ago, Ridska said:

Hmmm , I really like this. How ever , I really did think that it was a sratch build , Meaning that assembling the speaker unit with its parts.

BTW , Can you replace the make a steel or carbon fiber enclosur case ? And Ofc , the wood does effect sound quality and the acoustics.

If you want to assemble the speaker driver you need to have very specific parts and testing equipment to make something that actually sounds good, it's not as easy as picking the parts off a shelf and gluing them together.

If I had the measurement equipment to test drivers and money to make several drivers until I found one that was flat, then I would have built them.

 

Building the amplifier and crossover would have been more expensive because I would need to buy all the individual components and then etch out a custom PCB, which would also be far bigger than the DTA-2.

 

Not sure how steel or carbon fibre would make the speakers sound, but I have never seen a professional studio monitor or speaker made out of those materials so I assume it is really bad :P 

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  • 1 year later...
On 9/17/2016 at 11:35 PM, Enderman said:

Build process:

Done gluing and sanding:

IMG_0001.JPG

Indent for volume knob:

IMG_0005.JPG

Done painting:

IMG_0003.JPG

Volume knob inserted:

IMG_0006.JPG

Electronics mounted inside:

IMG_0010.JPG

Finished:

file.png

 

Conclusion:

Overall I am really pleased with how the speakers turned out.

They worked on the first try, and can reach really loud volume levels even though the amplifier is only 15W/ch and the speakers I am using are 40W/ch,

The paint could have looked better if I had sanded with finer sandpaper and possibly used primer, but from a few meters away they look perfect, and that's how they will usually be seen.

:)

Thanks for reading!

 

Are these ported or sealed...just wondering haha

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