frankenstien build happened - a year later gpu temps are extreme

[mzlink]

Hello.

 

This is an abomination, but it used to work fine, now I don't know what's up with it...

 

I was sent the wrong cpu cooler when waiting for parts, but couldn't be bothered to send it back, so i just threw it all together...

Anyway here is the current parts and OC profile:

 

Corsair Carbide 600C (inverted ATX)

Gigabyte X370 Gaming K7

XFX XTR 850W PSU

 

AMD Ryzen 1700

Multiplier: x38 - slight voltage increase to compensate

(don't have the numbers on hand)

Load line calibration: default (low is stock)

 

Corsair Vengeance 2x16GB 

3333MHz - 1.37V - 16-18-18-38-64

 

Inno3D GTX 980Ti iChill Black

(Hybrid card, not overclocked)

 

Samsung 960 Pro 512GB m.2 SSD

4x HDD's for a scratch disk in raid 0

(nothing important stored here)

 

Fans setup:

NZXT Kraken x62 front intake rad (cpu)

1x 140mm bottom intake fan (came with the case)

GPU 120mm rad as rear exhaust

 

I have tried swapping rear fan and bottom intake but that didn't help

Also the thermal paste has been replaced on the GPU, dropping the average temp by 7 degrees.

 

But still for some reason the GPU is hitting 80 degrees in 3 games and likes to default at 75 degrees in others

For almost a year I could never hear the gpu fan spin up, but now it gets noticeable or even loud in pretty much every game I play

 

I don't know what's up with the GPU cooler, but I'd like tips to try and fix this issue

[ZeusXI]

7 minutes ago, mzlink said:

-snip-

 

maybe the pump died. its a hybrid. check to see if the pump is running

[mzlink]

10 minutes ago, ZeusXI said:

maybe the pump died. its a hybrid. check to see if the pump is running

not sure how I am to do that on a CLC with black tubes.

[ZeusXI]

1 minute ago, mzlink said:

not sure how I am to do that on a CLC with black tubes.

put you fingers around the tubes. if its vibrating, it should be working. turn off all other fans in case, and put your ear next to the gpu. the pump is inside, so listen to the hum of a pump

[mzlink]

On 7/14/2018 at 9:46 PM, ZeusXI said:

put you fingers around the tubes. if its vibrating, it should be working. turn off all other fans in case, and put your ear next to the gpu. the pump is inside, so listen to the hum of a pump

I'll do some tests tomorrow then and report back.

 

Update: local chap bought it. No longer a problem for me.

[Mick Naughty]

Should be pretty clear if it’s the pump or not. Idle temps alone would give that away. 

 

Hear people say they can tap the pump an may be able to get it to move again. Although I’m sure it’s only temporary. 

[mzlink]

So I removed the card from the pc and took off the cooler, then fed the pump (12V) by a molex psu I got and nothing happens.

 

I think i'll buy Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite 120 because it looks like the mounting holes might line up perfectly and it is significantly cheaper than a new cooler from arctic. I'm dissapointed in the longevity of the arctic cooler to be honest.
 

 

[Mick Naughty]

Could have been the mouting that killed it. 

[mzlink]

4 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

Could have been the mouting that killed it. 

I think I just got a pump motor from a bad batch. It doesn't behave as it should mechanically now, but the bearing seems okay. As it was dead, there wasn't much reason to not investigate further. 

[Lord Nicoll]

8 hours ago, mzlink said:

So I removed the card from the pc and took off the cooler, then fed the pump (12V) by a molex psu I got and nothing happens.

 

I think i'll buy Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite 120 because it looks like the mounting holes might line up perfectly and it is significantly cheaper than a new cooler from arctic. I'm dissapointed in the longevity of the arctic cooler to be honest.
 

 

If you have the room, maybe get a bigger AIO for the card, as it would keep it cooler. I found my R9 380X, a lower power card, easily heat soaked a corsair H55 in push/pull. definitely try to get a thick 120mm or 240mm one if you have the room and budget. Most older AIOs have that asetek mounting system that will work. A lot of the Gen 4 stuff should be perfectly fine. 

[MaratM]

if you deside to change the GPU AIO you better to change it to something with a bigger rad like 240 or 280. GTX 980ti is a hot card. (TDP - 250watts) 

[mzlink]

On 7/16/2018 at 1:10 PM, Lord Nicoll said:

If you have the room, maybe get a bigger AIO for the card, as it would keep it cooler. I found my R9 380X, a lower power card, easily heat soaked a corsair H55 in push/pull. definitely try to get a thick 120mm or 240mm one if you have the room and budget. Most older AIOs have that asetek mounting system that will work. A lot of the Gen 4 stuff should be perfectly fine. 

 

On 7/17/2018 at 9:25 AM, MaratM said:

if you deside to change the GPU AIO you better to change it to something with a bigger rad like 240 or 280. GTX 980ti is a hot card. (TDP - 250watts) 

Well. technically i could mount a 240/280 rad on the bottom of my case as intake, but as the 120mm rad it came with did a good enough job, I can't justify the cost. I just want to fix the card. I do not intend to OC it (yet)

[Mick Naughty]

Gonna cost you anyway. Should be overclockking from day one.