BOOM BOX

I would read this, but this would cost me 100, 200, 3 00, maybe even $500 of my time. Sorry but I don't have time to read this half-assed clap back. Like why bother responding if you're not going to actually produce something useful to stand on?

I would read this, but this would cost me 100, 200, 3 00, maybe even $500 of my time. Sorry but I don't have time to read this half-assed clap back. Like why bother responding if you're not going to actually produce something useful to stand on?

I would read this, but this would cost me 100, 200, 3 00, maybe even $500 of my time. Sorry but I don't have time to read this half-assed clap back. Like why bother responding if you're not going to actually produce something useful to stand on?

Keep me posted

If you're looking for connectors to terminate the wire with Neutrik are the industry standard, not Ningbo Neutrik (that's the Chinese manufactured subsidiary) but just plain Neutrik. Will be about 7 bucks a connector from memory but don't quote me on that.

All shielded cable is worth a damn over unshielded but the most worth a damn cable out there is from Mogami, will cost you a pretty penny but it's technically the best. 

Remember kids, 52 V power line right next to the 1.7 V data line. Flawless Apple engineering.

Have you tried contacting apple about it? You can always send it to Louis Rossman, I'd trust him with my macbook any day of the week.

Not trying to flex everyone, just want to make that clear. These were genuinely my most recent purchases.

Yes, 3200 MHz is the maximum memory speed that is guaranteed to work with 3rd gen Ryzen. At that speed you're still running at stock specs.
 
What is concerning is that your 2600X can't run the stick at 2933 MHz, since you said it can't run at anything higher than 2133 MHz. Assuming your voltage was correctly set to XMP specs, it's possible your stick is bad because 2933 MHz is the 2600X's stock spec and it should work. While I've understand that 1st and 2nd gen Ryzen's memory controllers weren't great, but they should at least work at their stock speed of 2933.

Sorry I easily confuse myself with rank vs channel. I don't have first-hand experience but over a few months of reading other people's OC experiences, dual vs. single rank only became relevant when OCing to the RAM IC's absolute limits (single rank was easier to reach max OCs). But if I'm reading correctly (I did re-read a few times) you are concerned about being able to reach XMP speeds not absolute limits. In that case, single vs dual rank should not matter as far as I know because running 3200 MHz RAM doesn't involve OCing the memory controller in the case of 3rd gen Ryzen.

Ryzen 3rd gen's default memory spec is 3200 MHz so you should have absolutely no problems running your RAM at that speed, unless your CPU happens to be defective. 3600 is possible with what seems to be 90% of users.
 
I'm one of the unlucky 10% and my 3900X absolutely refuses to be 100% stable with an FCLK of 1800 MHz and my RAM refuses to stay stable at 3600 MHz. I knocked it down to 1766MHz FCLK/3533 MHz RAM and it was extremely cooperative when tightening timings, strangely. Point is, even my failed lottery landed me just one "step" below running 3600 MHz RAM so you're very likely good to go.
 

2000 series ryzen doesn't have the best memory controller. I can't get the ram on my 2600x to run higher than 2933. Ryzen 3000 series solved that and 3600 ram should work.

Already posted what i think about those in the news thread here about it. The first image is just wrong, the die code names don't match where Nvidia actually uses them nor do they really do Gx103 dies. The difference between the 3080 Ti and 3080 is so so far out of wack, not that the 3080 Ti is going to use GA100 that's a Tesla die with HBM memory controller.
 
As for the Geekbench here is one for a Tesla V100 (GV100 with 80 SMs and 64 CUDA cores per SM)

 
So this rumor one is most certainly a Tesla part using HBM2E and has, if reported correctly, 124 SMs but we don't know if the CUDA core count per SM has changed.  Things don't always scale nicely so going from the current 5120 CUDA cores to near 8000 may not work and it also many not leave room for improvements in Tensor cores and, if Nvidia wants these in a Tesla, RT cores.
 
I don't know how easy it is to fake GeekBench data but the score is too close to a Tesla V100 so it could just be that with faked CUDA information. It doesn't look trustworthy enough for me to believe any of it.
 
If there is one thing you can take away from this is that anything you see about a Tesla is not going to be close to a 3080 Ti.

Firstly: a fine gentleman in the guru3d comments made a valid point saying and I quote, "The 3080Ti having almost twice the cores than the 3080 seems a little fishy..." I have a hard time trying to justify any comments denying such a statement. The only comment that could be made in opposition would be perhaps the name SKU is misleading and Nvidia is considering reverting back to the original release format that they did with the 10xx series and prior. But that would be dumb as it's been proven that releasing the Titan before the Ti only cannibalizes Titan sales, not that they really sell a lot of them in the first place.
 
Secondly: The geekbench results throw a massive red flag when you look at the CUDA information. Now, someone correct me if I'm wrong but 1.11 GHz max frequency on a 30xx compared to a 1.545 GHz boost clock on a 2080 Ti with base being 1.35 GHz seem to be a little bit of a step backwards. I would be willing to argue that just because you theoretically have near double the CUDAs, doesn't mean you should back off on clocks, if anything keep the clocks the same or give a marginal bump in clock speeds. If I were to spit ball here, which I am, I would spit ball that the info in this spread sheet could possibly be pointing to a workstation card or a server card.
 
Like I said before, I'm spit balling here based on what my gut is telling me, I'm sure someone with more knowledge or experience around this stuff would be willing to fill in the gaps or correct me on any of this. Not trying to be rude, I'm just laying things out that I find that could be red flags.

Click that BUY AGAIN button next to the RTX 2080ti. You know you want to 😛

Not trying to flex everyone, just want to make that clear. These were genuinely my most recent purchases.

Not trying to flex everyone, just want to make that clear. These were genuinely my most recent purchases.

Well got the new psu in mail today connected everything and the system posted, looks like the asus rog strix x570 E gaming needs both the 8 and 4 pin connection with a ryzen 7 3700x. old psu is a xfx 1050w from about 6 years ago new one is the one in the link above.

Hey just coming back to this forum after a 6 year hiatus ha. 
 
Benchmark: Fire Strike
CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 stock
GPU: EVGA GTX 1660 Ti XC Ultra
GPU Core: 2,135
GPU Memory: 1,900
Score: 15, 794
3DMark Link: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/22444927

Yeah I'd say those results are pretty standard for a stock system. I ended up pulling something similar on TS when I had my 2600X and 2070 Super.

Alright, I've got two options for you, both involving replacing your headunit, all 4 speakers, and adding an amplifier.
Both options are going to sound immensely better than the stock audio system, and there's not a ton of difference between them.
Personally, I'd go with the budget option, since 15 watts is just going to allow you to turn it up louder.
Hindsight says I shouldn't have labelled it as "quality"... The quality between Rockford and MTX Speakers is very close.
You can save some money by swapping out the wiring kit for something around $40-50 USD, but I learned that a good wiring kit is worth the money.
It's a bit like buying a cheap power supply for a computer, only to upgrade it later if you add more parts. (like say, if you add a subwoofer later.)
 
Please note that in both cases, I didn't include any extra speaker wire since the wiring kit comes with 60ft already.
If you're mounting your amp in the trunk (recommended if adding sub later) you'll use about 40ft total for the front doors. (20ft for each speaker.)
Depending on how your rear door speakers are wired, you may need additional speaker wire, as the remaining 20ft might not be enough.
The following link brings up additional NVX Speaker Wire of various lengths should you need more wire.
 
2006 Mazda 3 BUDGET OPTION - $434.95 before tax/shipping
Attached is a PDF with clickable links to each product, in case you'd like to save it for easy viewing. I've also linked to these items below normally.
Pioneer-DEH-X6800BT - AM/FM/CD Stereo with USB/Aux-In/Bluetooth (other options work too, just get the features you need) Scosche-MA1536B-MA1536 (makes the stereo fit like it was factory installed) Scosche-MA03B (technically not required, but makes you life a lot easier) Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R168X2 - 55 Watt Peak Speakers (sold in pairs, you need x2 pairs because front and rear door speakers) Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R300X4 - 4x 50 Watt / Channel Amp (Rockford amps are extremely difficult to fry or wreck - they're well engineered) NVX-XKIT44 - 4 Gauge Amp Wiring Kit (you could use an 8 gauge kit, but if you ever add a sub amp, stick with 4 gauge) 2006 Mazda 3 QUALITY/LOUDNESS OPTION - $594.83 before tax/shipping
Attached is a PDF with clickable links to each product, in case you'd like to save it for easy viewing. I've also linked to these items below normally.
Pioneer-DEH-X6800BT - AM/FM/CD Stereo with USB/Aux-In/Bluetooth (other options work too, just get the features you need) Scosche-MA1536B-MA1536 (makes the stereo fit like it was factory installed) Scosche-MA03B (technically not required, but makes you life a lot easier) MTX-Audio-THUNDER68 - 60 Watt Speakers (sold in pairs, you need x2 pairs because front and rear door speakers) MTX-Audio-THUNDER75.4 - 4x 75 Watt / Channel Amp (newer version of the same amplifier I have - very underrated) NVX-XKIT44 - 4 Gauge Amp Wiring Kit (you could use an 8 gauge kit, but if you ever add a sub amp, stick with 4 gauge)  
BUDGET OPTION ON LEFT ----------------------- QUALITY OPTION ON RIGHT
*pricing is based on New York postal code 11354, and may not reflect pricing for your location.

I wish I could follow my natural habit but college doesn't want to flow that way.