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Just Monika

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About Just Monika

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Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-4690S 3.2GHz
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97-G45 Gaming
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 GAMING ACX 3.0
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl)
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" SSD, Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive, Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 750W 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    S2716DG, Asus MX259H
  • Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 5 RGB Brown Cherry MX
  • Mouse
    Logitech G400S
  • Sound
    HyperX Cloud II Gunmetal Grey
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Find a retailer with a waiting list (either online or in-store) and get in line, as long as you don't need to pre-pay. This is your "safety plan" in case you're not able to purchase directly, so try to get yourself waitlisted only if the price is low to reasonable. Some stores may increase the price by the time the list gets to you, however. To buy online, you'll need a little bit of preparation. If you're not able to sit at a computer for hours during normal working times, this step may be very difficult. Save your credit card/payment information on all retailer sites you
  2. Technology: RTX 3080 Ti. Been waiting for a 20GB variant of the 3080 since launch date and I've been resisting the temptation to buy a 3090 with each passing day that the 3080 Ti doesn't exist. I'm very eager to upgrade from my trusty GTX 1080 and am willing to pay any amount for a 3080 Ti as long as it's reasonably less than a 3090. <removed by staff>
  3. Thanks for your reply, that's reassuring. I'm sure I didn't do anything that caused the damage. I never set the voltage to anything beyond 1.35V (XMP spec) and stuck to the XMP profile with some timing tightening.
  4. I'm looking to see if anyone has had similar experiences with RMA'ing RAM or other components due to blown capacitors. Recently one of my 2 16GB modules (G.Skill 2x16 GB modules) had a blown capacitor which resulted in random and constant blue screen crashes. I'm preparing to send the modules but I noticed on their (G.Skill's) RMA confirmation form that warranty is voided by "physical damage". This both worries and frustrates me because while one of the modules is technically "damaged", it is only due to a faulty capacitor that there was damage. Picture of the capacitor in the spoi
  5. How much of an issue, if any, is having 24GB of VRAM if I only have 16GB of RAM? Really eyeing the 3090 but that's one of the concerns I have, other than the enormous price tag on it.
  6. I think a more efficient method would be a self-inking stamp type of tool that dispensed thermal paste instead of ink. Cut out the wasted paste and the messing-around with a stencil and paste tube, and just stamp on the paste.
  7. Using a 3900X for gaming instead of rendering, video editing, or anything that has actual need of 12C/24T. I wanted it "just because", and I don't regret getting it over a 3700X. My case has no windows or RGB because it sits underneath my desk and I never see it. I turn off the RGB lights on my mouse because it's wireless and I don't need the battery drain on an LED that I'll never see because it sits underneath my hand. Only RGB I use are the ones on my keyboard and I only bought it several years ago because it was an open box deal that was far too good to pass up (bonus: the box
  8. If I were a cautious buyer, then these would be my definitions: New = Unopened Open Box = Opened but never installed and powered on Used = Installed and powered on If there is an exceptional case, like it was only powered on for a few hours, make it abundantly clear so the customer knows just how "used" it was. If it was used for only a couple of minutes or hours, it would be more desirable than something that has been used for several months. Trying to pass it off as new would only make yourself look untrustworthy and trying to pull a trick on the buyer. Bett
  9. I prefer using a fingerprint reader but Face ID does have a strong convenience factor in that using the feature is no different from using the device (you just look at it). As for whether or not the notch is "worth it" - it's unobtrusive and is not noticeable unless the notch is something you're actively looking for or thinking about. I don't mind the notch at all because there's nothing important that could have been there in its place. The screen space on each side of the notch holds the time and battery/wifi/carrier signal icons - informative but not something you keep constant
  10. If you're asking about 3rd gen Ryzen, then the method I've read is to run the CPU at maximum all-core load using Prime95 (small FFT) and use HWInfo64 to check the voltage reading. I believe this only applies to CPUs below the 3900X due to how the cores are organized. If there is anyone else here that is more knowledgeable about this, please add on. This is only knowledge that I've read from others. The Wraith Stealth is a stock cooler and based on images I found on Google, it's not likely to be enough for overclocking. You'll definitely need an aftermarket tower cooler or some kind
  11. The performance itself doesn't necessarily degrade, but over time, the CPU will need more voltage to run at its maximum clock speed. Normally this never happens with a completely stock CPU because the manufacturer always leaves some headroom to account for variation in the quality of the CPUs off the production line (also why some CPUs OC better than others, they may have more headroom to use). But once you OC your CPU to its limits (voltage is just enough for the clockspeed), as soon as it degrades a bit you will lose stability and will require more voltage to support the OC. Again, the highe
  12. Software vs BIOS overclocking: Software OC just changes settings in the BIOS. Personally I would rather cut the middleman and do it through the BIOS directly. If settings don't work out, you can always do a CMOS reset to restore to default settings if your OC is so bad it doesn't let you boot. Some motherboards automatically reset BIOS settings if it fails to boot X number of times. With software, you risk running into an infinite loop of crashes. Chipset effect on OC: No idea. CPUs can definitely be killed by overvoltage. Someone (here or reddit) accidentally typed in 2.xx volts i
  13. As a trilogy, Mass Effect needs to be played from beginning to end. If you skip to the end, all you see are a lot of storylines concluding that you didn't really built up a connection to so there's little to no emotional impact when there should have been one. Mass Effect 2 and 3 also carried over certain key decisions that you made from the previous game (if you still had the game save file) and that made the game feel "alive" where your decisions throughout the series actually mattered. Granted the story doesn't change from these decisions, but they're enough to make you feel lik
  14. I've never looked at QVL lists when choosing memory and it's always been fine. That list is only what the manufacturer has tested themselves to work. If it's not on the list, it doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't work, it's just they haven't tested it. I've followed 3rd gen Ryzen closely for several months after its release and I don't recall seeing cases where a specific set of RAM doesn't work unless it was actually defective (needing RMA) or where it was being overclocked beyond its limits.
  15. Yes, 3200 MHz is the maximum memory speed that is guaranteed to work with 3rd gen Ryzen. At that speed you're still running at stock specs. What is concerning is that your 2600X can't run the stick at 2933 MHz, since you said it can't run at anything higher than 2133 MHz. Assuming your voltage was correctly set to XMP specs, it's possible your stick is bad because 2933 MHz is the 2600X's stock spec and it should work. While I've understand that 1st and 2nd gen Ryzen's memory controllers weren't great, but they should at least work at their stock speed of 2933.