Meczox_

I just got it out, for some readon there was small tiny edge on the screws which prevented it from sliding out. I had to kinda wiggle and force it ALOT to come out but everything is fine now, i installed a new cooler and all seems well for now at least

that one with a delid tool it's hard to break. and old compound goes off with the alcohol pads that comes with thermal grizzly liquid metal. only thing to be careful about, is using a plastic tool to rub off the old silicone..  and only use a little drop of liquid metal and rub it in(it's slow as hell)  to both top of cpu and on the IHS so the tension is broken and they connect properly when you glue it together again.. i got engine sealant heat resistant silicone for that, from any car part shop 😄
.  you get other is this stuff. 
liquid metal: 
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-GPU-Value-Pack/dp/B0BKH2DC3K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3S12BSWZCSE8O&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut&qid=1685265766&sprefix=thermal+grizzly+con%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A28VADU4WUGJ11&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUVWNTVCRkZEOElCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzEwMzQ4TU9BRDU0Q1NGTEw5JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODg5MjUxWjhCWkFUUE8wQ1cwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 
delid kit: 
https://www.amazon.com/der8auer-Delid-Die-Mate-Heatsink/dp/B01N6T4LD9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ihs+removal+tool&qid=1685266008&sprefix=ihs+remo%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3
 

In the future, for anyone with this same problem, the way to get the pins out is with a small hammer and tapping very lightly until they start moving just a bit. You can hold the board from under and just very light taps - impact makes things move much more easily than static force. Obviously don’t miss…Then they will pull out fairly easy once you have a couple mm of movement.
 
Sometimes the backplate itself gets stuck on the board. Pliers grabbing one of the corners where the mounting screws go and pulling directly away from the board will get it moving. Don’t try to pry it - might damage the board.

it was honestly kinda scary cus I legit had to pull it with everything i had adn wiggle it. thought I would break the boiard xD and lucky the peerless assasin se 120 is doing better at cooling it than this 5y aio xD

Damn thats a good deal
 
Cambodia is quite abit closer to china iirc so if you wanna do any future builds or upgrades buy from china or your local online marketplaces (here in indo the largest one is tokopedia) since they tend to be flooded with cheap china parts, obviously theyre of varying quality but some are really good, a particular benifit is being able to get dirt cheap cases that arent trash, i mean i got a mesh front with 3 incl rgb fans for iirc 23$ which is nuts, think i went abit too cheap on this one (doesnt fit 120mm coolers properly) but for 23$ cant complain

Se version is the same thing just diff looks
 
Should be more than enough for 5ghz+

Try with both front and sidepanel off
Also take a pic of your internals just to see what it looks like and how the aio is mounted
 
If its really the aio thats trash look at a peerless assassin/phantom spirit 120 or ag/ak620 as a replacement, ak500 i usually find it to be at a meh price compared to these two or a different beefy cooler

yeah, the main concern here is thickness. Either stick to stock height or check out with other owner of the same card model on what thickness works either in parity or even better than factory.

Two things. Power down, unplug, reseat your GPU, RAM, and cables.
 
If that doesn't work, there seems to be a rash of issues lately running Corsair RAM with Ryzen processors. If you don't believe me, search "Corsair RAM Ryzen crash" here and see what you find.
 
Also, I discovered I made a noob mistake in my build by overlooking the protective sheet covering my 3060ti's expansion slot cover. Turns out it was bunching up on the expansion slot cage and putting the card in a bind, which seems to have been causing it to push its nose up out of the slot. Seems to be fixed now, but I fear it may have put some stress on my HDMI port. Time will tell.

Try resetting CMOS. That's also a great start. 

I'm planning to buy this laptop for video editing, coding and some minor gaming but prefer more subtle look not gamery look also taking to college because i would like to take notes my typing is slow but it does not come with a pen even thought it is touch screen are their pens that will work with this or is it only touch with my hand because i would like to note down stuff 

Mines probably the 1 definitely not the 0 size though thx for your help alot sorry its abit hard cus english is my second language and size of stuff like this isn’t my strong point

Yeah if you can just place it and it stays there I don't see a problem with it being a bit torn. Worst case as I mentioned you glue them together or something.

Just clean the gpu die off of thermal paste. A tiny bit of dust on the pcb isn't bad. 70% alcohol is NOT recommended for this. Neither is a qtip because that leaves bits of itself everywhere.
 
So basically just clean the dust of the heatsink and fans without using alcohol as normally you can just get it off with a paper towel and harsher paint brush. The heatsink you can even put under the tap and scrub it if there are not electronics attached to it.
 
The card you just dust off with some air and paint brush and call it a day.
 
Then apply a generous amount of thermal paste over the gpu die and pretty much mount everything back. be careful with the thermal pads they might rip. You can still use them when they do just puzzle them back together or get new ones of the correct thickness.

Even without a cooler, the PC should boot up for at least a few seconds. (Not recommned just saying it should boot)
So I'm thinking either bad ram, or a failed CPU.
 
As mentioned above pull everything, check everything and gently place them back in. (RAM, CPU, GPU)
Also check the power cables as they could have come loose.
And while your in the case check if any CAPS or anything else is missing from the board. I know you may not be able to tell, but random metal pins sticking up where a cap should be possible to spot.
 
Good luck.
 
P.S - If you have a second PC, or a friend to test your parts in I would try it. (RAM, GPU)

I'm assuming you got a desktop here...

Step 1 - Check if your CPU cooler is loose. If so tighten it and retry booting.
Step 2 - Remove everything but the ram/CPU/GPU and check if the computer posts. If it does reinstall the disk and other conponents one by one (booting between each install)
Step 3 - remove the cooler, unseat the cpu, inspect it for bent pins, smell it for trace of ozone. If everything is fine, carefully reseat the CPU, repasted it if you got spare thermal paste, reinstall the cooler and try it.
Step 4 - test the CPU in another computer (ask a friend)

Comme back to us after all these
 

re applying paste won't get display to show up.  

You could try re-seating the GPU?  It's possible something worked loose.

Or if there was enough thermal wigglery happening, you may need to reseat the CPU (but that's a stretch)

ok, ty a lot ima try this

That paste is listed as having high thermal conductivity, but zero electrical conductivity.
 
It's safe to use on both CPU/GPU applications.

Many motherboards have a pc speaker header, 2 pins on a 4-pin wide header. If your motherboard has such a header and you plug in  a pc speaker you may get beep error codes. The part is generally very inexpensive.

Well $75 for a single tower IS expensive. It got 2 extra heatpipes, but still a single tower.
The difference compared to 4 heatpipes are not that huge. 2-3c.
The favorite brand in this category is Hyper 212 or Deepcool Gammax 400, most of them are less than $50.
This guy review cheap coolers.

from my experience 90mm heatsink perform not far from 120mm, a little bit noisier, but it's fine. it will work.
I'm just posting some example he wanna go cheap, there are alternatives out there.

yes and they say at the end while the life of the aio might be affected by the pumps being on top and it is not entirely recommended that it is possible to do so, in this case with no room on top and the tubes pulling then there is no option thus I dont see a need currently to have him/her potentially damage something further, though i do suggest getting a new case that will better fit an aio since this doesnt 
 
and you are correct I miss quoted I meant to say the pump above the pipe, so I do apologize.

Software wise youll need:
1. MSI Afterburner
2. Purpose built GPU stress tester excluding furmark (Unigine Superposition is my usual pick on this one)
3. Your daily used apps that relies on GPUs (video editor, games, etc)
Hardware wise youll need:
1. Good tiered PSU with a lot of wattage headroom for your CPU and other crap
2. A case that isnt basically a closed up heating coffin (if you wanna keep that side panel on)
 
Steps youll need to do:
0. Run benchmarks and activities that you usually do. Write it down (framerates, render/compile times, etc) as a before results.
1. Start up your stress testing app of choice
2. Boot up MSI Afterburner
3. Increase your power limit and temperature limit to the max that it allows (most modern cards only allow 110% or something like that, but 1070s usually allow 120% or so iirc)
4. Start dialing a base of +50 mhz on the core clock, and +100 on memory clock(or dont and just skip to step 5 if you wanna be cautious, i usually do this to cut down on my overclocking session)
5. Bump the core clock up to +10 mhz until your system crashes. Dial back to the last settings its stable. And then change to bump it to +5 till it crashes. After that stop. Repeat with the memory clock, but multiply by 10 for the bump (so +100, and +50 respectively)
6. Run the same benchmark and things that youve done for the before comparison, and then compare the before and after.

Above worked to get it to boot. It recovered the BIOS and booted as it used too, only faster with the SSD. Thanks everyone for trying to help with this issue.