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Backplate of cpu cooler wont come off

Meczox_
By Meczox_
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Go to solution Solved by Whatisthis,

In the future, for anyone with this same problem, the way to get the pins out is with a small hammer and tapping very lightly until they start moving just a bit. You can hold the board from under and just very light taps - impact makes things move much more easily than static force. Obviously don’t miss…Then they will pull out fairly easy once you have a couple mm of movement.

 

Sometimes the backplate itself gets stuck on the board. Pliers grabbing one of the corners where the mounting screws go and pulling directly away from the board will get it moving. Don’t try to pry it - might damage the board.

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I can’t seem to remove this backplate for this AIO. Coolermaster ML240L RGB. It seems to get stuck on small parts on the nail with the back plant from the front.

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Are you going to reinstall the same cooler? If not, you can use a heavy duty pliers to cut the screws from behind the motherboard and the front parts should just fall off. 

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@Meczox_ Do you have a picture of the complete socket? The cooler's backplate should just slide right out. I would highly advise against using pliers to cut the screws from behind. Seems like a good way to Verge things up.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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36 minutes ago, johnt said:

Are you going to reinstall the same cooler? If not, you can use a heavy duty pliers to cut the screws from behind the motherboard and the front parts should just fall off. 

Why would they do that if that would make that Cooler useless.

Have you tried turning it off and on again? Maybe Restart it? 

Please make sure to Mark the Solution as a Solution.

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41 minutes ago, FI Fheonix said:

Why would they do that if that would make that Cooler useless.

I asked if he was planning to reuse it lol If he wants it off to replace the cooler then who cares? AIOs don't last forever. It is installed on a 8700k... which was released in like 2017... 5/6+ years ago... about the expected life time for an AIO.................... just sayinggggggggggggg

 

42 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

I would highly advise against using pliers to cut the screws from behind. Seems like a good way to Verge things up.

Your experience is showing...

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1 hour ago, aisle9 said:

@Meczox_ Do you have a picture of the complete socket? The cooler's backplate should just slide right out. I would highly advise against using pliers to cut the screws from behind. Seems like a good way to Verge things up.

I just got it out, for some readon there was small tiny edge on the screws which prevented it from sliding out. I had to kinda wiggle and force it ALOT to come out but everything is fine now, i installed a new cooler and all seems well for now at least

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48 minutes ago, johnt said:

Your experience is showing...

Two things. One, using pliers to cut through solid metal that is stuck on your motherboard is, in fact, a terrible idea. An ungodly terrible one, at that. There are so many ways that you could permanently damage or just break a motherboard doing that...

 

And two, you're right. I have absolutely no experience using pliers to cut through solid metal that's stuck on my motherboard. I also have absolutely no experience wrecking a motherboard by doing something that stupid.

 

10 minutes ago, Meczox_ said:

I just got it out, for some readon there was small tans on the screws which precents it from sliding out. I had to kinda wiggle and force it ALOT to come out but everything is fine now, i installed a new cooler and all seems well for now at least

Yeah, they can get annoyingly stuck. It's usually a matter of geometry for me, just wiggling them around until everything lines up and any gunk stuck to the posts slides off.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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4 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

Two things. One, using pliers to cut through solid metal that is stuck on your motherboard is, in fact, a terrible idea. An ungodly terrible one, at that. There are so many ways that you could permanently damage or just break a motherboard doing that...

 

And two, you're right. I have absolutely no experience using pliers to cut through solid metal that's stuck on my motherboard. I also have absolutely no experience wrecking a motherboard by doing something that stupid.

There's plenty of room behind the motherboard to make a cut if he needed. Whether you use side cutters, a cut off tool with a thin disc, a hack saw, heck even an oscillating tool...

 

You shouldn't call other people's ideas stupid bc you don't understand them. Doing stupid things is how you learn not to be stupid!

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15 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

Two things. One, using pliers to cut through solid metal that is stuck on your motherboard is, in fact, a terrible idea. An ungodly terrible one, at that. There are so many ways that you could permanently damage or just break a motherboard doing that...

 

And two, you're right. I have absolutely no experience using pliers to cut through solid metal that's stuck on my motherboard. I also have absolutely no experience wrecking a motherboard by doing something that stupid.

 

Yeah, they can get annoyingly stuck. It's usually a matter of geometry for me, just wiggling them around until everything lines up and any gunk stuck to the posts slides off.

it was honestly kinda scary cus I legit had to pull it with everything i had adn wiggle it. thought I would break the boiard xD and lucky the peerless assasin se 120 is doing better at cooling it than this 5y aio xD

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4 hours ago, Meczox_ said:

I can’t seem to remove this backplate for this AIO. Coolermaster ML240L RGB. It seems to get stuck on small parts on the nail with the back plant from the front.

image.jpg

 

just saying.. that cpu is notorious for overheating because of bad compound under the IHS.. and can drop up to 20C by delidding and applying liquid metal correctly.

And it's the last one it's easy to do it with as it's not soldered. 

 

 

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57 minutes ago, Robchil said:

just saying.. that cpu is notorious for overheating because of bad compound under the IHS.. and can drop up to 20C by delidding and applying liquid metal correctly.

And it's the last one it's easy to do it with as it's not soldered. 

 

 

Yea I’m planning on deliding it later when i dint mind breaking it. As of now kinda need it.

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  • Solution

In the future, for anyone with this same problem, the way to get the pins out is with a small hammer and tapping very lightly until they start moving just a bit. You can hold the board from under and just very light taps - impact makes things move much more easily than static force. Obviously don’t miss…Then they will pull out fairly easy once you have a couple mm of movement.

 

Sometimes the backplate itself gets stuck on the board. Pliers grabbing one of the corners where the mounting screws go and pulling directly away from the board will get it moving. Don’t try to pry it - might damage the board.

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1 hour ago, Meczox_ said:

Yea I’m planning on deliding it later when i dint mind breaking it. As of now kinda need it.

that one with a delid tool it's hard to break. and old compound goes off with the alcohol pads that comes with thermal grizzly liquid metal. only thing to be careful about, is using a plastic tool to rub off the old silicone..  and only use a little drop of liquid metal and rub it in(it's slow as hell)  to both top of cpu and on the IHS so the tension is broken and they connect properly when you glue it together again.. i got engine sealant heat resistant silicone for that, from any car part shop 😄

.  you get other is this stuff. 

liquid metal: 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-GPU-Value-Pack/dp/B0BKH2DC3K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3S12BSWZCSE8O&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut&qid=1685265766&sprefix=thermal+grizzly+con%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A28VADU4WUGJ11&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUVWNTVCRkZEOElCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzEwMzQ4TU9BRDU0Q1NGTEw5JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODg5MjUxWjhCWkFUUE8wQ1cwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

delid kit: 

https://www.amazon.com/der8auer-Delid-Die-Mate-Heatsink/dp/B01N6T4LD9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ihs+removal+tool&qid=1685266008&sprefix=ihs+remo%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3

 

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44 minutes ago, Robchil said:

that one with a delid tool it's hard to break. and old compound goes off with the alcohol pads that comes with thermal grizzly liquid metal. only thing to be careful about, is using a plastic tool to rub off the old silicone..  and only use a little drop of liquid metal and rub it in(it's slow as hell)  to both top of cpu and on the IHS so the tension is broken and they connect properly when you glue it together again.. i got engine sealant heat resistant silicone for that, from any car part shop 😄

.  you get other is this stuff. 

liquid metal: 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-GPU-Value-Pack/dp/B0BKH2DC3K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3S12BSWZCSE8O&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut&qid=1685265766&sprefix=thermal+grizzly+con%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A28VADU4WUGJ11&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUVWNTVCRkZEOElCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzEwMzQ4TU9BRDU0Q1NGTEw5JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODg5MjUxWjhCWkFUUE8wQ1cwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

delid kit: 

https://www.amazon.com/der8auer-Delid-Die-Mate-Heatsink/dp/B01N6T4LD9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ihs+removal+tool&qid=1685266008&sprefix=ihs+remo%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3

 

RTV is the cousin of duct tape. Fixes almost anything where you need a seal.

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29 minutes ago, Whatisthis said:

RTV is the cousin of duct tape. Fixes almost anything where you need a seal.

it's not realy to seal.. just glue them together 😄

 

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2 hours ago, Robchil said:

that one with a delid tool it's hard to break. and old compound goes off with the alcohol pads that comes with thermal grizzly liquid metal. only thing to be careful about, is using a plastic tool to rub off the old silicone..  and only use a little drop of liquid metal and rub it in(it's slow as hell)  to both top of cpu and on the IHS so the tension is broken and they connect properly when you glue it together again.. i got engine sealant heat resistant silicone for that, from any car part shop 😄

.  you get other is this stuff. 

liquid metal: 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-GPU-Value-Pack/dp/B0BKH2DC3K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3S12BSWZCSE8O&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut&qid=1685265766&sprefix=thermal+grizzly+con%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A28VADU4WUGJ11&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUVWNTVCRkZEOElCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzEwMzQ4TU9BRDU0Q1NGTEw5JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODg5MjUxWjhCWkFUUE8wQ1cwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

delid kit: 

https://www.amazon.com/der8auer-Delid-Die-Mate-Heatsink/dp/B01N6T4LD9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ihs+removal+tool&qid=1685266008&sprefix=ihs+remo%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3

 

One question though, i know not putter the ihs back is the thing, but im planning to sell it after so do u think i need the alignment tool thingy? Or can i just align it by hand and it will work fine? Or is there a trick to it without using a tool?

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11 minutes ago, Meczox_ said:

One question though, i know not putter the ihs back is the thing, but im planning to sell it after so do u think i need the alignment tool thingy? Or can i just align it by hand and it will work fine? Or is there a trick to it without using a tool?

the tool comes with an alignment template and clamp to press ihs and chip together until the silicon dries, the clamp has to be centered for the silicon to dry and keep the ihs straight. 

you will need to press it together without damaging the chip.. for the chip to connect with the ihs at all.. and it has to be straight. if it's edged.. it's not gonna have the contact to ihs you want.. and probably be worse. 

it's not a must. but simplify the job alot.. 

 

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17 minutes ago, Robchil said:

the tool comes with an alignment template and clamp to press ihs and chip together until the silicon dries, the clamp has to be centered for the silicon to dry and keep the ihs straight. 

you will need to press it together without damaging the chip.. for the chip to connect with the ihs at all.. and it has to be straight. if it's edged.. it's not gonna have the contact to ihs you want.. and probably be worse. 

it's not a must. but simplify the job alot.. 

 

 

20 minutes ago, Robchil said:

the tool comes with an alignment template and clamp to press ihs and chip together until the silicon dries, the clamp has to be centered for the silicon to dry and keep the ihs straight. 

you will need to press it together without damaging the chip.. for the chip to connect with the ihs at all.. and it has to be straight. if it's edged.. it's not gonna have the contact to ihs you want.. and probably be worse. 

it's not a must. but simplify the job alot.. 

 

I found a cheaper tool but it doesnt on with the relid tool. For me the 40$ is auite alot, i live in cambodia. So if possible can i not use a relid tool n put dots on the ihs and use the motherboard socket to align the ihs and hold it ?

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2 minutes ago, Meczox_ said:

 

I found a cheaper tool but it doesnt on with the relid tool. For me the 40$ is auite alot, i live in cambodia. So if possible can i not use a relid tool n put dots on the ihs and use the motherboard socket to align the ihs and hold it ?

if you have a tray to put the cpu in use that and align the ihs and put a clamp in the middle to press it together. just make sure it's not pushing down more on one side. but exactly in the middle. 

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29 minutes ago, Robchil said:

if you have a tray to put the cpu in use that and align the ihs and put a clamp in the middle to press it together. just make sure it's not pushing down more on one side. but exactly in the middle. 

This is the tool i can get its a link to a video but its the same tool

relid

 

relid tool and delid tool

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Meczox_ said:

This is the tool i can get its a link to a video but its the same tool

relid

 

relid tool and delid tool

 

 

 

that's perfect 🙂 enjoy. 

good video too. took up all the important points. 

 

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7 hours ago, Robchil said:

that's perfect 🙂 enjoy. 

good video too. took up all the important points. 

 

Btw how long should i leave it clamped for? 

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11 minutes ago, Meczox_ said:

Btw how long should i leave it clamped for? 

depends on the silicone realy..  mine is surface dry in 20 minutes but i leave it for 1 hour. 

 

EDIT: left it... only done this twice with great effect.. but second was on my 9900k.. needed to use liquid metal to disolve the solder 😄

 

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18 minutes ago, Robchil said:

depends on the silicone realy..  mine is surface dry in 20 minutes but i leave it for 1 hour. 

 

EDIT: left it... only done this twice with great effect.. but second was on my 9900k.. needed to use liquid metal to disolve the solder 😄

 

I have a 9600k that I’ve been thinking of delidding and going direct die. What kind of improvement did you get from your 9900 delid?

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