All the flash memory is used to hold data on a ssd, no matter if there's a partition created or not. You shrinking the partition won't make any difference.
23GB is 10% which is why it's saying that. Really all over provisioning does is forces you to not fill the drive up as it reserves some in an unpartitioned area in order to leave be able to do its background garbage collection and TRIM functions optimally even if the user fills the drive up 100%. Basically, its making it so you can "use 100% of the available space My Computer is showing you on the C drive" without it having an issue. The saying of "don't fill up your SSD to 100% comes from this, but if you over provision, you can go ahead and fill it up to 100% since its not really 100%... with that said, all SSD's have a bit of extra flash that is not shown to the user just for this reason.
If you put games on the SSD, then it won't matter. Games don't write to storage, except maybe updating a configuration file or some saved game (if it's not stored in the cloud).
Reading game files when loading game levels is not affected by the SSD being full. Mostly writing files, speed of writing to a SSD is affected by a SSD getting full.
No, benchmarks won't tell you anything useful, you're just gonna pointlessly write data to the SSD.
A SMR drive will have slow write speeds, and slow write speeds when overwriting big files. This is because with SMR, the drive has to read the data in the tracks before the track where you want to write data, and write them back along with the modified data - so every rewrite is actually a read + write, so slower.
if you check the build on PCpartpicker it will give you an estimated wattage, multiply that by 1.5 (add 100 to the total if you are using Nvidia cards) and that will be the wattage you want.
ALSO IMPORTANT be sure to choose a PSU from the PSU cultists list c tier or better
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
a 550w or 600w psu would be what i recommend for your current setup
also you may get better perf if you go with a cheaper 1tb SSD, a 5600 or 5600x, and a 6600XT
if you want a full list hit me up. just saying if you are just buying this you may wanna check the list.
SSD or Solid State Drive is a storage device containing non-volatile flash memory, used in place of hard drive because of its much greater speed. Unlike a hard drive, a solid state drive doesnt have any moving parts. It has two main components - A flash controller and NAND flash memory chips.
More information on solid state drives can be had from here..
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid-state_drive
This guide differentiates SSDs in different tiers based on their DWPD, sustained writes, controllers and NAND types.
Make Ctrl + F your Best Friend...
NOTE - MANY MANUFACTURERS ARE REPLACING THE KEY COMPONENTS OF SSDS (CONTROLLERS & NAND FLASH) WITH INFERIOR COMPONENTS WITHOUT INFORMING THE GENERAL PUBLIC. THIS LIST IS BASED ON THE COMPONENTS (CONTROLLERS & NAND FLASH) THAT THE SSD CAME WITH AT THE TIME OF LAUNCH.
All you really need to clean those fans is a paint brush.
Those screws used are just standard fan screws nothing special. Not sure why they decided to use push pins for the bottom fan. Usually just pushing the pin gets it out no problem.
You can use rufus to create bootable usb with persistent storage. With persistent storage any changes you make whist booted to the live usb will be remembered between boots.
If the fan connector is wired to the 12v side of the plug then the fans will be running at 100%. This will do more of this 'damage' you've been told about than running through the motherboard header. If they're wired to the 5v side they'll be fine. Are the fans themselves PWM (4 Pin) or Voltage controlled (3 pin)? If they're 3 pin i wouldn't bother with a new splitter. 4 pin ones I would but i'd only get a 4 pin splitter. That's only if the motherboard header was 4 pin also.
I use a simple 5v/7v/12v Molex powered controller to run my 4x Panaflo 120x38 intakes in my Meshify C. Its just a 3 position switch. I normally run them at 7v, I only turn them up to 12v to feed my TY143 when I know its going to ramp up. I run my exhausts separately because my main rear is a 24v fan that runs nice and quiet at 12v, and I have a 92x35 that needs a very tight leash with an LNA due to it being a 4000RPM fan.. that just happens to be stronger than my TY143 lol.
A router that seems to get "fixed" temporarily after power-cycling likely has a small amount of RAM that is being consumed very quickly, which causes all functions to slow down over time. You can try disabling as many unnecessary logging functions as possible, but I'm inclined to believe this won't yield much improvement.
If it were just the wireless portion having the issue, I'd suspect wireless interference from neighbourhood signals. While you've yet to show us the wireless survey results that were asked for previously, I suspect that those results would be inconsequential.
In essence, you'll benefit from a new router, preferably something from the WiFi 5 generation or better.
That's a bit of a tough one without some more information.
The first thing I suggest doing is turn on verbose mode for shutdown and startup
https://www.techrepublic.com/article/how-to-turn-on-verbose-booting-mode-in-windows-10-with-a-registry-edit/
This might give you a idea of where its hanging up.
The other thing to look at is your Event Viewer: Right click on your start menu and select Event Viewer, expand Custom Views, and Click on Administrative Events. and look at the time where you were shutting down, Be aware there is normally a ton of warnings and errors in the event viewer, most can be ignored. You might find the information here. Some People often find the event viewer a bit intimidating.
Non-x, in my signature.
That's the stock idle multiplier... If you're not getting it, your system is never truly idle.
Nope, completely stock, with 1usmus's "Ryzen Universal" power plan.
Rather than start a new topic on this, I thought I'd share some info I have on the topic as people will hit the thread.
I've had two KingDian M.2 SSD's. Not for $20 off but at around half price.
The first one my Chuwi lapbook Air refused because it claimed the controller was not supported. The eBay seller refused to refund but did give me about 85% of my money back. The SSD works in a USB 3.0 M.2 caddy so that's fine. It does not get a lot of use and only carries transient data.
The second one worked. I got it from Amazon and I checked out the supplier. Amazon returns are a lot better than eBay, however, so I paid the extra £5. The drive, identical to the first one, was accepted by the Chuwi and it worked perfectly. However it ran hot. Very hot. I was not too bothered because my Chuwi is simply a portable device which I don't create content on, it accesses other content which is cloud or NAS/sever based.
Yesterday the SSD failed. About a year after I bought it. Today I put it under a very strong magnifying glass and had a good look at it with the label off. It has a genuine SanDisk chip on it, clearly new and not re-used. A much more detailed inspection shows that this is a part which failed QC and has been "touched up" by hand. Soldering quality is generally poor for the entire board, clearly it was a failed batch through the solder bath.
Further inspection shows what failed. There is a chip on the back (don't ask me it has no markings and I'm not an electroics engineer), but the chip has crumbled and shows signs of overheating from the inside.
As has been said above. You get what you pay for. I will replace it with a mainstream drive now that they have reached reasonable price levels and I have some experience with the Chuwi itself and whether I actually want to keep it.
The drive did the job I asked of it. Namely to give me time to experience the machine and see if it would do what I required or whether I'd need to get something more powerful than the Atom chip, without driving my expense to the levels where I felt I would have to keep it to get my money's worth.
However, as expected, the lifetime of the SSD was short.
I wouldn't sell anyone a machine with these SSD's in them. I value my reputation and this won't enhance it.
When you buy something online, do you wait 6 months to do a review? Most people don't. They buy the SSD, see the huge performance difference between their ancient 5400RPM spinner, and go "wow! Amazing!" and post an awesome review.
6 months later the drive dies and it's too late to post a bad review, as they're not thinking about that, they're thinking all the data they lost....
You have to remove the motherboard to mount an SSD on that back panel.
Alternatively, you can check if you can also mount a 2.5" drive in one of the HDD mounting trays.
Sadly as stated above, if you want your SSD mounted on the back of the MB tray, then yes you need to remove the MB and mount them there.
Your other options are on the PSU shroud or in the HDD/SSD drive cage.
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