The Blackhat

It’s a nice street shot regardless.
 
The pinnacles of class.

So pick “essential” and then “save settings.” Jesus christ.

Right, WRX chipset.

Well, you can still build that instead. It would be just as good, if not better.

Why not just... drop in a Threadripper Pro to your current board? One of the new models.

Challenging for sure, it’s quite a bit trippy. Hard to inspect with my eyes for too long.
 
 
Went to a car show, I love old classics.
Canon EOS R + Nikon 105mm F/2 DC

platnium psu not worth the upgrade stick with the gold and use the money else where the only difference is the 1-3% power loss due to efficiency its not a more solid psu its just in terms most on here wil get its a better binned part.
Would you buy a new mustang the same spec as the one you own same everything color spec year mileage and so on the only differnce is yours gets 12 to the gallon and the new one gets 13 to the gallon

Ddr5 is useless garbage atm so would highly not reccomend it, youll have to buy a new kit later on anyways when 7000+ becomes standard, you can oc hynix 16gbit adie but by that time theres prob some other ddr5 ic that has completely outclassed it
 
Just go for a value optimized normal build if you arent gonna oc, the only way i see 6000$ being wasted on a gaming pc (when ~1.8k gets you top gaming spec) would be a ton of exotic cooling, well theres also useless rgb aesthetic crap and overpriced boards which is another way to waste that much money but spending half your budget on aesthetics is retarded compared to exotic cooling, plus ppl will be alot more impressed with a chiller loop than aesthetics cause aesthetics is overdone and its become generic now

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/jbV3W4
This is all you need
 
Anything more is diminishing returns and you only get extra benifit from overclocking only, you dont overclock you cant get more performance
 
 
if you are serious about performance then overclocking only and questionable subzero cooling since budget fits that aswell, though im pretty sure you cant use a chiller loop to chill an i9 or a 4000 card to decent temps (<30c) so those are phase only and there are builders for phase change systems around though itll cost a decent amount to get a good one power enough to cool down an i9/4000 card to near/sub ambient (~1k), subzero seems pretty much impossible unless you wanna look at even more ridicolous cooling like cascade phase change but thats just straight up impractical for daily due to power draw and cost
 
basically peak performance is reserved for the oc nuts and subzero maniacs so ifyou arent atleast an enthusiast you may wanna stay away from this mostly because subzero can make sht malfunction due to condensation so if you dont seal your system right water droplets form and short things, i havent killed any systems by dropping water on em (ehich has happend a couple times, even turned it on once and still worked when it dried) so not sure if the claims of killing your mobo are real or not

Why is there no DSLRs on the list? They have cooties or something?
 
Also what's with nonsense like this?
 
 
People still shoot professionally with 5D MKIIs, let alone an A7III. Unless you're shooting with an ancient mirrorless where you have issues like lag in the EVF and god awful focusing, anything past 2012 has barely improved in image quality and anything in the last 5 years is almost indistinguishable with featuresets.
 
Cameras are not commodity devices, they don't become out of date in 2-3 years from planned obsolesce or some huge jump in tech.

I'm not a big fan of the M50, M50mk2 or M6mk2 because of their EF-M mount. you really need to adapt it to EF to get decent lenses and ones that you can upgrade the body and carry forward. the m50mk2 is really everything that should have been added to the mk1 with a firmware update
 
for the 700$ USD you are in X-T200 or A6100 area which are a lot better, let alone something used like an X-T30 or a6400

Thank you for the suggestions, we are going to improve the Tier.
 
Maybe we can decrease the 5VSB efficiency requirements? 
 
About the "speculative tier" we were thinking on it because there are a lot of units not listed here, in the next update we are going to introduce that, thanks for the recommendation.
 
And, it's not just Ctrl + f, is the Revision 8.6.0, if this tier is kinda "bad" in some points, imagine the first version, anyway, we are going to improve the Tier, thanks for the suggestions.

Yeah it seems that the cultist  has a lot of knowledge and background adding psu’s with active clamp to tier B and also adding psu’s that have issues with high transite power to tier A

Did I just create a profile in LTT's forum because something ticked me the wrong way?
Yes.
Was it about how you measured/tested a certain PSU?
Yes.
 
The EVGA 600B are the most quite powerful, endurable and reliable PSUs I had for a while and always suggest to clients to buy them. I suggest them from my own experience.
This PSU ran through outtage through outtage and fires and hells. And it's still as faithful as day one and only a few days ago the cooler whined reminding me that I was due for a cleaning and lubrication and that I couldn't push it any longer than I was already doing (the maintenance in general). I've seen a 600B dealing with a 10xxx Intel and a 3060RTX running -as- smooth and cool (no overheating), though I wouldn't dare adding mechanical drives into it. Gladly it was just an ALL-SSDs computer. I'm aware it might not be enough for a 3090, barely for a 3070 and obviously, not suited for a SLI-enabled system (unless you are deaing with lesser cards).

So, after some TL;DR; text and reviving an old thread, my question is...

How did you come up that this PSU is only suited only for low, cheap, iGPU-only systems, when from my own experience is a good cheap PSU suited for a very respectable system...?

Going through the GTX 9xx fiasco and GTX 1xxx on a GTX 760 while using this PSU untill I moved onto a GTX 1660. So... quite a vet PSU it is nowdays.
 

Challenging for sure, it’s quite a bit trippy. Hard to inspect with my eyes for too long.
 
 
Went to a car show, I love old classics.
Canon EOS R + Nikon 105mm F/2 DC

Challenging for sure, it’s quite a bit trippy. Hard to inspect with my eyes for too long.
 
 
Went to a car show, I love old classics.
Canon EOS R + Nikon 105mm F/2 DC

Challenging for sure, it’s quite a bit trippy. Hard to inspect with my eyes for too long.
 
 
Went to a car show, I love old classics.
Canon EOS R + Nikon 105mm F/2 DC

OCing isn't really worth it on these chips, and newer ones have PBO, so as long as the VRMs can handle that then it's no sweat. Zen/Zen+ were not worth the work to get more than +200Mhz out of them (and that's the slimmest margin where you might notice a performance uplift in actual use).
Excuse me, what in the god damn fuck? AMD chips are not Intel, even for Intel 14nm over 1.45v isn't reccomended for daily. For Zen/Zen+ 1.42v was the spicy edge, you really wanted to stick at 1.4v or lower.

For RAM, you won't get above 2933Mhz on Zen+ without some good luck and more work than it's worth (and IIRC it can perform worse due to the link between Ryzen's infinity fabric and RAM speed, I believe that was still a thing with overly fast RAM on Zen). There's no reason to get anything past 3000-3200Mhz (you'll have to manually set either to 2933 in the BIOS, but once the friend is able to get a newer chip they can run the full speed).
RAM speed is more dependent on the CPUs, Zen rarely handled above 2933Mhz, Zen+ rarely handled above 3200Mhz, so no sense getting faster than that.

Thanks for noticing that mr obvious xD
 
Thing is youll prob get better compatibility with a used b450 or b350 so i suggest getting a midrange b450 like the asrock pro4/steel legend, theyll prob be sub 60$ considering thats what i can find em for here in developing indonesia so since you are in the us i suspect youll find better deals for cheaper, heck you may even be able to find cheap x370/470, though for midrange boards just focus on i/o only since the vrm is most likely fine, ram topology doesnt matter unless you are dealing with 4dimms
 
Oc wise i would just stick with intel 14nn spec for vcore (1.52v) but unlikely youll need to or can go over 1.4v, micron rev e is light on the imc but unsure of rev b, expect ~3600-3800 for micron ics
 
Also you sure the guy will even give a crap about lights? Hes making do with an optiplex after all so i doubt he would care about lights, fan wise you can get phanteks fsk for rgbs, psu rgb is just f fing stupid so i dont suggest spending on rgb on that, btw 600w segotep gp is at 50$ and 850w gf1 pe is at 90$ for psu reccomendations, there is used psus but i doubt youll care about those

Because tube amps provide characteristics that solid state amps do not.
It’s stuff you’d need to actually use to notice or care about, not stuff on a sheet of paper.

So you want to disable something that's designed to help protect you why? It doesn't consume any amount of resources unless it's running a full scan which is usually over in a minute and not run by default anyway.

Hello everyone,

My Issue is now solved by the help of the user @Vishera

With the help from the user and the video below I was able to fully disable Windows Defender in Microsoft Windows 11 64 bit Professional. The thing I think that made it work correctly is starting in safe mode, as I haven't tried that before watching this video.



The way to disable Windows Defender for me was in this YouTube video, just some reg edits.
 

i want it to heat gun it but dont want tto set it on fire i must of got the wrong wd40 but if i use soap and water will it go away 
 

i tryedd wd40 didnt work i heard you can use taht but what happends if i let it dray wikll it be ok?
 

12900K+6800 XT was dropped?????