breixobaloca

Brand =/= quality either. Had this discussion multiple times in this thread. Brand's have both good, bad, and mediocre PSUs, like the Cooler Master V Platinum, the Cooler Master Elite and Cooler Master MWE V2 Bronze respectively. That PSU you are looking at (from what I can tell) is group-regulated, which isn't something that is good for anything other than budget builds/office PCs

Cheaply made =/= cheap.

Okay cool, thank you.

The reason for Multi Rail, especially with 1000W+ units is that the resistance for the PSU to detect a short is ridiculously low. This is a problem because the voltage is relatively low. So a faulty connector + the resistance on the board can give you enough resistance for the PSU to not detect the fault - which can then cause a Fire. You can see that in the Overclockers "Why Single Rail is NOT better" link. Because that is essentially what happened. A short that was not low impedance enough, combined with a 1600W Single Rail PSU...
 
Another example of the Problems that can happen is this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h3HqqPOS_M

It literally released on September 1st. No reviews right now so we don't know anything about it. Personally, I would get a PSU that is verified to be of good quality.

Nox Urano TX Bronze is being tiered as a PUQ-B PSU based on a nov-2017 review. The problem is that a dec-2017 video (the Shrek one) shows that it's NOT a PUQ-B, but a ¿GPM? instead. The point is that the video was published by a Portuguese store, most likely opening their own retail units, instead of a review sample which could have been manipulated before sending it to the website.
 
As for the additional evidence, it's just some internal pics from another source, but I was asked to keep them private when I received them. To sum up, there's enough evidence to think that Urano TX 850W "Bronze" is just like the "Green Power" internally, or at least it was the case back when the review was published, and that's why I complain about having it in Tier C.

I'll contact them about that.
It has OCP on minor rails, that's enough. A requirement for OCP on all rails in the methodology was a mistake, fixed.
Reivews for TPU and THW are written by the same man, Aris Mpitzopoulos.
It's the same thing, High Power is retail brand of Sirtec and Sirfa is IIRC the name of their factory.
So in one review he confirmed OTP while in another he didn't, which indicates that either it's set higher than 200°C at which point it isn't very useful anyway even if present or there are some problems with it at least on some batches, but since we don't have any more information about it sadly, we would rather treat it as it doesn't have OTP.
 

Case?
Just use your motherboard's box, or just buy the cheapest case you can find, they're not that expensive.

It has issues with its protections, and it's loud, but it performs well. It's fine.

What in the world does this mean? You aren't talking about customer reviews, right...?

Let's see some differences:
The Ion+ 660P has more cables, you get 2 EPS connectors, 4 PCIe, 10 SATA and 4 4-pin Molex, while the G3 offers 1, 3, 6 and 4 respectively. Also, you get nicer cabling with Ion+ as they use no in-cable caps (G3 does) and as many reviews say it uses especially flexible wires. Electrical performance is similar and decent in both cases, there are some differences because the G3 has a much tighter voltage regulation, but Ion+ is not bad at all. G3's transient response is much better, though. They are similar in other aspects like ripple, inrush current or hold-up time. As for protections, G3 goes out of spec on overload before OCP & OPP (as the spreadsheet in the tier list says, that's why it's grayed out). This doesn't happen with Ion+. Internal quality is also really high in both PSUs but I'd probably mention that the Ion+ should have a better fan, as they advertise a real FDB bearing, in contrast to the HDB bearing of the EVGA. But yeah, both of them have an excellent internal quality. Average efficiency is similar in both cases, that's because although the Ion+ has better efficiency at moderate to high loads, its efficiency levels drop significantly at very low loads. Warranty period is longer in the Ion+ (10 vs 7 years) Finally, there is a huge noise difference, average noise is 27.31dBA (Lambda A-) for the G3, and 13.74 for the Ion+ (Lambda A++). G3 works constantly at 25-30dBA when the fan turns on, while Ion+'s fan starts running at 6-10dBA. Check out the noise graphs in the Cybenetics reports I'll link below.  
Take a look at Aris's review of the Ion+ and the G3 for comparison. I leave a link to the Cybenetics reports too (Ion+ and G3)
 
I think the Ion+ is a much more appealing option from the user's perpective, and if those two are the only possible options I'd get the Ion+. However, if there is a huge price difference between them (i.e. the G3 is much cheaper) or there are other options to choose from, I would rethink my position.

Let's see some differences:
The Ion+ 660P has more cables, you get 2 EPS connectors, 4 PCIe, 10 SATA and 4 4-pin Molex, while the G3 offers 1, 3, 6 and 4 respectively. Also, you get nicer cabling with Ion+ as they use no in-cable caps (G3 does) and as many reviews say it uses especially flexible wires. Electrical performance is similar and decent in both cases, there are some differences because the G3 has a much tighter voltage regulation, but Ion+ is not bad at all. G3's transient response is much better, though. They are similar in other aspects like ripple, inrush current or hold-up time. As for protections, G3 goes out of spec on overload before OCP & OPP (as the spreadsheet in the tier list says, that's why it's grayed out). This doesn't happen with Ion+. Internal quality is also really high in both PSUs but I'd probably mention that the Ion+ should have a better fan, as they advertise a real FDB bearing, in contrast to the HDB bearing of the EVGA. But yeah, both of them have an excellent internal quality. Average efficiency is similar in both cases, that's because although the Ion+ has better efficiency at moderate to high loads, its efficiency levels drop significantly at very low loads. Warranty period is longer in the Ion+ (10 vs 7 years) Finally, there is a huge noise difference, average noise is 27.31dBA (Lambda A-) for the G3, and 13.74 for the Ion+ (Lambda A++). G3 works constantly at 25-30dBA when the fan turns on, while Ion+'s fan starts running at 6-10dBA. Check out the noise graphs in the Cybenetics reports I'll link below.  
Take a look at Aris's review of the Ion+ and the G3 for comparison. I leave a link to the Cybenetics reports too (Ion+ and G3)
 
I think the Ion+ is a much more appealing option from the user's perpective, and if those two are the only possible options I'd get the Ion+. However, if there is a huge price difference between them (i.e. the G3 is much cheaper) or there are other options to choose from, I would rethink my position.

I had to ask a Spanish friend of mine what you actually meant with this... full credit to Baloca on this one (to what I think what you meant)
 
to get back to Segotep here for a second instead of goop. Segotep is owned by Seethru, which is best known under the name of major GPU/motherboard producer Colorful. The platform in question is essentially the one used in part of Enermax's Platimax DF (<=600w), but downgraded. If you can get one for a relatively cheap price, go for it. But it's not comparable to let's say an RMx in any regard.

You can perfectly get a dead silent PSU without semi-passive mode.
 
Regarding EVGA B3, it's highly possible that when the fan turns on it does so with high RPM (Cybenetics: https://www.cybenetics.com/code/pdf.php?id=yfR), and you don't want to be hearing the fan start and stop every X minutes/hours. The B3 is not a safe bet, and Pure Power 10 & Formula (like Stefan recommended) are absolutely great units in terms of noise.

The G3 seems to have issues with the OPP, though.

Do you have something from recent times and not the middle ages?!
Arguing with 15 Year old stuff (or more)?! SRYSLY?!
 
And in 15 Years there was so much that happen...
We switched from the old Flyback to Double Forward to LLC-Resonant mode topologys, the Caps got better, Polymer capacitors were introduced, the efficiency rose 20-30%, from 72% tops and usually something in the higher 60s to 96% tops, the Power Transistors of the primary side and the Diodes on the secondary side were replaced by MOSFETs, the discrete +5VSB Circuit replaced by an IC, switching frequency increased....
Sorry, but modern PSU have _NOTHING_ to do with the ones from 15 Years ago...
 
And the Problem with those was the Temperature. Those caps just didn't like higher temperature due to lower fan speed, thus were cooked and failed....
The max. Heat produced on an old Antec True Power or so should be around 200W at 500W Load (and 70% efficiency).
 
Todays PSU have way better efficiency and a 500W PSU today only produces only a fraction of that heat due to higher efficiency...
 
Yes and Corsair RM 550-650W don't.
So if they were as bad as you claim, why don't you see them fail in Forums??
They are old enough that the "quality of the Capacitors" should show.
 
And what about Rigol scopes? They also use Capxon here and there. Also don't seem to fail that often....
 
And LCDs are a totally different thing because they don't have any forced airflow and thus tend to get rather hot...
 
Yes and that is what you are talking about: Bad or shitty designs that cook the Capacitors because they don't want to put a fan inside...
 
And you would probably like to pay 50 bucks more for your components, don't you?? Because good build quality is expensive - just look at Miele Washing Machines.
 
There are also many 80plus Gold units that cut corners and are rather bad.
The Seasonic S12G is rather loud and dies in overload scenarios.
 
Or look at the Seasonic made EVGA 550GS or 650W. They also die when the DC-DC Modules are overloaded.
 
 
You should read the Links people post and not claim some things that were mentioned in the Original Link.
 
If you don't understand the Language, use Google Translate. That works rather well for one Germanic Language to another, even if one uses many romanic words. 
 
 
Because the "Second Revision" is a totally different unit from a totally different manufacturer - in this Case Seasonic for the second version...
The second version, wich failed misarably in the protection tests and had a really high fan RPM is a Seasonic S12II-Bronze variant, manufactured by Seasonic (or at least ordered by Seasonic and manufactured to Seasonic's specification)
 
 
And why is it relevant who does the units, when you and I can get the Components to build a PSU from Digikey and Mouser?! 
PSU are just made out of Standardized Jelly Bean Components. You don't see proprietary Chips often in PSU! Only FSP, Delta and maybe Super Flower do that, the Rest uses off the shelve components. Nothing fancy there...
 

That's BS. My 380X + i5-4690K has never drawn more than 400W@Primary (so ~360W@Secodndary) so your PC won't consume a lot more. The most important factor is QUALITY, more than wattage. You want the best PSU for your budget, not the one which has more wattage because it gives no benefit, instead it will probably last less or cause you trouble if it's a bad unit.
 
So... Which PSU is that? If it's a decent one, you have nothing to worry about.

No, 500 watt means it can give out 500 watts(if the label doesn't lie, anyway)
 
Efficiency has nothing to do with the power it outputs, but more, the power it takes to give the output.
 
Lets say a 500 watt PSU is rated for 80% efficiency when at 80% load, for example.
80% load = 400 watts, but due to the efficiency being 80%, it means the PSU has to pull 500 watt from the wall, in order to put out that 400 watt.
For that 500 watt to give out the full 500 watt, it would be pulling about 620 watts from the wall(assuming it's still 80% efficiency when at 100% load)

It can only be the "2017" model, because there weren't any other versions of CX450/CX550/CX650.

Yes and you don't need to lecture me about PSU stuff.
I know that. But that wasn't the point.
 
Yes and the good stuf is at somewhere around 93%
http://www.tweakpc.de/hardware/tests/netzteile/be_quiet_straight_power_11/s03.php
 
And before you come with the Price argument, even cheaper ones are around 92%:
http://www.tweakpc.de/hardware/tests/netzteile/bitfenix_formula_gold_450/s03.php
 
That's pretty meh efficiency and legally required for PSU to be sold in a prebuilt system here in Europe.
 
It depends on the PSU, the curve and so on, but that's not the point.
 
The point is that the unit he has is not the right one, if you worry about the electrical bill. And the Bitfenix Formula isn't much more expensive.
Or take a Pure Power 10, 500 CM wich reaches 90% efficiency and is 'only' 80plus Silver...
 
And the 16-22W are a big difference if you worry about Electrical bills!
Far more than soft off vs. Suspend to RAM!
 
That was the Point I was trying to make.

And shorter too compared to previous RMx

Don’t worry about that “peak efficiency”. Because the “peak” is different for every PSU - for some it’s at 30%, some 50%, some 70%. And the efficiency difference between those loads (~30% - 70%) will be very small.
 
And every PSU will be more or less efficient, because they’re built differently.
For example, a 400w be Quiet! Pure Power 10 at any load may be more efficient than that FSP 650 at its ‘peak’, simply because it’s an overall more efficient PSU.
 
So don’t waste time doubling your required wattage. Just choose a quality PSU that can support your build.
 
And S12ii power supplies are still group regulated, along with missing protections. You want to look for a DC-DC PSU.

If you don't trust the other side too much, you should do that.
Especially on more expensive parts its highly recommended to film it...

I kinda find it hard to believe you tbh
 
But that's because I worket in an RMA department for a couple of days. And what the People send in wasn't nice. Like really shitty custom sleeved PSU where even the Transformer of the PSU was painted. And they wanted Warranty Service for that.
 
So that the Screws fell off, I really find it hard to believe.
 
Either you did it yourself or someone else removed the screwes. Especially since one should have some kind of Warranty Void Sticker on it so that the manufacturer sees it when you tried to tamper with it.
 
And I haven't heard any of the stuff you are posting here...
 
 
As for the money, its probably gone, but its only 40€ anyways, so not that much is lost...
As for the PSU: They have to destroy it because its unsafe to use right now...
 
He doesn't need to.
He can ask the DHL/Hermes guy to wait for him to open it. 
But he should be ready and do it quickly, they have other things to do as well. 

Just to note (and a lesson) whenever ordering parts online always, Always, take photos or video of the unboxing to show  there was no tampering on your part, just incase there is damage by the seller or delivery company.
 
FYI.