Zando_

im using a asus 1080p 144hz monitor so i usually shoot for 144fps but i dont think my 960 manages that in Tetris lmao. ive found a really good priced 2080 ti and im shooting my shot to see if i can grab it or atleast a 1080 ti. i know the 900 series drivers are being shut down soon so the 2000 series will give me alot of headroom as i dont like upgrading until i have to (the 960 proves it ) ill see if i can find the uk or eu version of evga B stock and ill definitely look on there. thank you for your help and not recommending rebuilding a perfectly fine system lol !

Re-did my setup to make room for a 4090, running a temp AMD 1 gig GPU -- waiting on a good deal.
 
 
 

2080 Ti. Is the fastest of the options presented, again unless you're shooting for high refresh and/or refuse to use v-sync, should be a non-issue, and it'll last longer before needing to be replaced. Also the most powerful out of those options if you want to do any non-gaming, it's a rather beefy CUDA card with a fat chunk of VRAM.
 
If you're worried about power then just get the 3060 12GB. Not the 8GB model, it's shit as explained by the other guys a bit above.
 
Check EVGA's B-Stock (refurbished, certified to function like new with at most cosmetic damage, my stuff has always looked crisp tho, and 1 year warranty vs the standard 3-5) section tomorrow:https://www.evga.com/products/ProductList.aspx?type=8&family=Power+Supplies, they usually put B-Stock stuff on sale on Wednesdays. The G/P/T[number] series are at worst solid, at best very good. I think the GA series is decent as well, but I'm not up to snuff on them so you'd want to look for a review from TomsHardware or Aris that breaks down how the PSU functions and any glaring issues with them.

Shouldn't be any performance difference, Windows 11 is Windows 10 with a reskin, and better hardware scheduler for new CPUs that you are not using anyways. I haven't had W11 explode on me with my 7980XE, though that also supports it properly, no jank required (AFAIK normal Skylake doesn't, you need a workaround or external TPM module). 

Fair enough, sounds like for simplicity and familiarity I'll just stick to W10

Zen is a bit shittier Haswell-E as far as performance goes. It will bottleneck the 2080 Ti at 1080p, but if you're content with 60fps then meh that won't be a problem, I've run worse combos (X5675 Xeon from 2011 with a 1080 Ti/Radeon VII) before. For 1440p and up you should be fine. 

https://www.epicgames.com/help/en-US/fortnite-c5719335176219/battle-royale-c5719350646299/why-is-my-fortnite-account-banned-and-what-can-i-do-a5720312273051
You cheated. You got caught. This is part of the punishment.
Also this forum has nothing to do with Epic and can't help you get unbanned.

Most people who care about what goes into PCs are playing games on them, and most people look for the best perf/$, so thus the focus on gaming performance. If that isn't your passion in PCs, finding other niches is pretty easy. Puget Systems consistently publishes benchmarks with full focus on creative and workstation render tasks, Level1Techs is a great source for enterprise/server hardware, ServeTheHome for even more focus on home server stuff, etfc. Lots of great spaces without a focus on games. 

i watch the buildzoid video on the Z690 which has the same configuration of VRM, he just calls it "clever" cost optimized design, where focus is put on quality of components rather than "amount" of stages.
 
i get that LN2 is the only place where more is needed.. and i have not for a long time seen boards that is like hot.. vrm wise, 60 degrees is the max, and even non fan supported
 
But thank you.. nice to have a discussion. 
 
have a great day

If you actually mean "new" then forget it. These boards have been out of production for years and any actual new old stock ones will be way more expensive than they're worth. Just get any compatible board you can find secondhand for cheap. 

cool. because i like the board connections, it runs the chip well.. i am 10 minutes in a vrm torture test at "full PBO" and it is drawing 220watt and it is 56 degrees.. (still rising)
 
But i just see like 22 phase 105A boards, and this is "only" 14 70A phases.. so got a bit. DID i do a wrong..
 
Actually was looking at X670 non E boards, but they are the same price.. so nudged for the TUF.. simply because it seemed in reviews to be "taken well"

Just get a cheap single M.2 one then, I have multiple EZ-DIY or whatever ones I got off Amazon, ran single x4 drives without issue. 

Just get a cheap single M.2 one then, I have multiple EZ-DIY or whatever ones I got off Amazon, ran single x4 drives without issue. 

You could try something like Lubuntu or Puppy Linux, but that thing is still going to struggle (especially since you can't add RAM to it). Chrome/Firefox/etc isn't magically "lighter" just because it's on Linux. Bay Trail netbooks were slow when they were new, and that was almost a decade ago.
 
https://lubuntu.me/
https://puppylinux-woof-ce.github.io/
 
There's a lot of folklore that Linux can "breathe new life into" old computers, and that's only kind of true. They're still old computers, and if you expect to run modern software on them you'll have to temper your expectations no matter what.

Distro shouldn't matter much, just make sure to pick a lightweight desktop environment like Xfce or LXDE.

Hm, weird, I'd guess a foreign substances would've been better to be discharged right away, but surely they would know better. Thanks for the correction.

That's the maximum officially supported speed, assuming standard timings too without that XMP stuff.
 
Assuming the chipset/BIOS doesn't limit you, you can run it slower, you can run it faster. The things is, if you run faster and it doesn't work, you're on your own. You can blame the mobo, bios, or the ram, but not the CPU.
 
BTW this is no different than CPUs have run for a very very long time. Zen 3 Ryzen CPUs also only supported 3200. AMD suggests 3600 as a sweet spot for performance, they don't promise it'll run at that speed.

Yes. 6c/6t is a lot easier to work with in modern titles than 4c/4t. If you can find a cheap i7 8700, then that's even better as it's hyper-threaded. If either chip is much over $100-200 though, it's often better to just save a bit more and upgrade to a current platform. At least in the US, it's about $250-300 for a solid budget gaming CPU, motherboard, and RAM all together (in your case you could use the RAM you already have, so that cost would be lower). 

This could have gone in your other thread. The i5 7400 is functionally the same chip as the i5 6500, everything said in the other thread about that applies here as well. 

This could have gone in your other thread. The i5 7400 is functionally the same chip as the i5 6500, everything said in the other thread about that applies here as well. 

I used to pull 400w on a Killawatt running 180x26/1.425v with my GA-X58A-UD5 rev.1 with the 12 phases on my X5675. The 1080 should have been on a 40w~ idle roughly since it was in windows so that cpu was certainly pulling 300w+ just to itself. With the GPU in OCCT it would pull 550w so the math checks out for a 180w GTX 1080. Using turbo boost/eist it would hit 4680mhz on the single core multi while also at the same time also idling down to a nice 105w idle when the 1080 decided it actually wanted to hit the 11w lowest idle states(aka never). 32nm was a tank, my X5675 easily doubled my i7-930 scores.

I haven't dug into the latest gen stuff as I don't own any of it, buuut I can tell you that ASUS AI Overclock loves dumping ungodly voltage into your chip in an attempt to make it stable, I would recommend disabling it and manually tuning. What voltages is it pushing vs stock, and if you revert to stock what do your temps look like?
 
Also, can you expand the "Core Temperatures" dropdown in HWiNFO64, that will let you see per-core temps. IIRC the mounting solution for 12th/13th gen flexes them enough to cause uneven contact (thus the aftermarket contact frames to apply even pressure). If you're seeing large differences between individual core temps when they're all under the same load and at the same boost clock/voltage, that could be a sign of it.

Most likely the CPU yeah. A modern i3 has the same 4c/8t but far faster cores, so the 7700K sits a bit below that.

Prime95 Small FFT will kill a lot of poorly designed motherboard VRMs, especially with high core count CPUs, so if you want to see some destruction, that's probably the way to go. 

haven't had issues with my cpu, 3700x.