LienusLateTips

Depends entirely on where you live; if you don't give us that info, we have no way of knowing.
Technically every sale is taxable, but very few to no one ever charges it.

Are you trying to speak directly to Linus? I'm afraid he doesn't spend all that much time here, if really any. But I'm sure they're going to do something spectacular for 10mil and probably something quite good for 9mil.

I think Builds.gg is a good idea. UserBenchmark less so because of all the Ryzen-busting shit, and Timespy can stay in About Me.

Of those I would only count Builds.gg. UserBenchmark is frankly s**t and 3DMark scores can stay in profiles About Me portition. Personally I dislike folding, boinc and HWbot scores in sigs already. Too much about boasting/bragging imo.

I leave mine on all day. Currently, I have a CX550M, so Tier B on the list. You'll be fine.

We were discussing this issue for someone else, good links to video benchmarks included:
 
 
 

A small part of your power supply is constantly running and powering your computer, mainly the chipset.
The reasoning for this is you may want to remotely turn on the computer (using a signal coming to your network card), or you may want to wake up the pc to receive a fax (yeah, from the times dial up modems were a thing).
The main part of your computer's power supply is completely shut down, what's left going into your pc is 5v at 2-3A ... basically pretty much similar to a phone charger.
If you leave the phone charger plugged in all the time, you can do the same for your computer.
 
As for bad things that can happen... pretty much nothing bad.
There is a downside to having the computer with the computer power supply turned off : the battery on your motherboard will discharge much faster and will eventually have to be replaced.
The battery is there to keep the system clock working, and keep the bios settings (if the battery is removed, the settings are erased within a few seconds). The battery is not rechargeable.
When the computer's power supply is turned on from the power switch, the power supply sends that 5v stand by power to the computer and the bios uses that to keep those bios settings and the system clock working, instead of taking "juice" from battery.
So, the battery is pretty much never used and can therefore last for 5-10 years. However, if you constantly flip that switch, the battery may last 6 months to a year.

Ok because some members couldn't bother to read the whole thing before posting their answers, causing confusion, i will explain it again.
 
YES, switching the psu switch WHILE the computer is OFF is fine, it is like unplugging the pc.
 
DON'T flip the psu switch while the computer is ON, that is like pulling out the power cable, this is bad for your harddrives and data! Tell your gf to stop if you can.
 
PSU switch = pulling out the power cable.

The switch on your PSU breaks the incoming AC, so actually it's just like unplugging from the wall. DON'T do it when the PC is still on, shut it down, then flip the switch, that won't hurt anything.

No. Why would it be?
 
EDIT: To clarify, this is to answer turning the switch off if the computer is already off.

The 2060 doesn't support SLI

Quality comes first. While efficiency is fine and dandy. More things come before that label on the box. 
 
And there are allways a gold rated PSU that is worse than a bronze rated PSU.
 
Hence just dont worry about that label.

"You can't tell lies on the internet!"
"who told you that?"
"The internet!"
 
You have to be so foolishly naive to think your simple google searches and approximations have actually helped you identify power supply information correctly. You can clearly see that people who understand power supplies a lot better have told you that you're wrong, like @GoldenLag. You still can't admit you're wrong though.

Feel free to come with statements based on the reality we live in. Here are testing results for PSUs at ~40°C at up to 110% load. 
https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=database
Feel free to come with the sauce. Prebuilt OEM systems typically come with sensible PSUs. Check out the wattage on those. 
Outervision is what a lot of other PSU calculators are based on. It's absolute male cattle excrement. If you want a more reasonable estimate, just do GPU TDP + 70W. That works for a gaming load and is more accurate than any PSU calculator -not that it takes much. 
Of they need 400W, they are running a 2080 Ti or equivalent. Way less than 80% of people use >250W GPUs. 
I trust random.org or my cat more than what pretty much any YouTuber says about PSUs. That way I would get less misinformation, and more accurate power draw estimates. 
 

Please explain why you believe that. Don't just say someone is wrong without explaining why.
The parts listed is a system with a Ryzen 2600X (<100W) + RTX 2060 Super (<200W). They're correct in that the system would consume less than 400w.
 
I don't have a system like yours, but my system which is much more power hungry with an overclocked i7 6700K + GTX 1080Ti is currently playing Kingdom Come Deliverance  (1440p Ultra). From the wall measured with a watt-meter the power supply is pulling around 385W, fluctuating by 10-20W depending on what's happening on screen. That's before efficiency loss of the PSU, so around 350W system power usage.
 
Your system will be more than fine with a 550W PSU. The RMx you have selected is a decent unit and also available as 550W models. If the 550W is cheaper I would recommend that to save some cash. There might also be some other cheaper 550W models available as well. No need for 750W model, though if you do go with the 750W model it won't hurt anything (other than your wallet).

Don't buy it. It's a old group regulated design. Get a CX550.

Everything else is more expensive in Asia. With the exception of a few ripoff companies who sell stuff for cheaper, but they're fake ofc.
 
If you want software controlled then the Cooler Master ones are probably the cheapest, maybe Phanteks.
As for fans, I find that the Thermaltake and Corsair ones look the best. Thermaltake is cheaper and less of a hassle if I'm not wrong.

No, PSUs for any kind of systems should at least have some degree of safety, working protections and barely durable parts.

A bit hard to tell, without knowing how long you've had your PSU, what you're powering, and what the prices are, don't you think?

Note: The PSU Tier List has been migrated to a new thread: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list-40-rev-10/
 
 
***
 
Welcome to the brand new PSU Tier List! Worked on, by @Stefan Payne, @LukeSavenije, and myself. This is a complete overhaul.
 
We'd recommend that if you have a gaming system, to not have a unit below Tier B.
 
All information below is opinion based on fact. Units may be bumped down due to the following: missing protections, group regulation, bad electrical performance and catching fire.
List is subject to change at any time, due to change in sources available.
Single rail units exceeding 650W will not be placed above Tier A.
Sleeve bearing fans will not be placed above Tier B. Group regulated units will not be placed above Tier C.
 
Last updated 22 August, 108, revision r1.43.
 
 
Tier A+ (Ultra High-end)
Aerocool - Project 7 650W Antec - High Current Pro, High Current Platinum Be Quiet! - Straight Power 11, Dark Power Pro P10, Dark Power Pro 11 Bitfenix - Whisper, Formula Gold Cooler Master - old V series 550/650, MasterWatt Maker, MasterWatt Maker MiJ, new V Platinum 550/650 Corsair - AXi, RMi, RMx 550/650W, SF, HX 2017, HXi, RM (2019) 550/650 Enermax - Platimax, Platimax Digifanless  FSP - Hydro PTM 550/650W Mistel - MX650  NZXT - E-series 550/650W Seasonic - PRIME/PRIME Ultra 550W/600W/650W Super Flower - Leadex Gold II 550/650, Leadex Gold III 550/650 XFX - XTS 460/520W  
Tier A (High-end)  
Aerocool - Project 7 750W+ Antec - Earthwatts Pro Gold, HCG Gold Asus - ROG Thor Be Quiet! - Straight Power E10, Pure Power 10/11 =>400W, SFX-L Cooler Master - VSM-series =>550W,  MWE Gold, V Series 750W+ Cougar - GX-F Corsair - Vengeance Silver, AX760/860, HX gold, RM, TXM 2017, AX850/AX1000, RMx 750W+, RM (2019) 750W+ Enermax - RG, GX EVGA - 1000G, G1+, GQ, GD, P2, T2, G2, PS FSP - Hydro G, Dagger SFX, Hydro X, Aurum PT, Hydro PTM 750W Gigabyte - AP850GM, XP1200M  Kolink - Continuum NZXT - E-series 750W+ Riotoro - Onyx, Enigma, Enigma G2   Rosewill - Quark, Fortress, Capstone, Lightning, Silent Night, Tachyon, Photon SAMA - Armor Gold, Forza Titanium SeaSonic - Focus Plus Platinum, Platinum (XP/XP2/XP3), Focus Gold, Focus Plus Gold, X, Snow Silent, non-PRIME Fanless, PRIME/PRIME Ultra 750W+ Silverstone - Gold Evolution, Strider Gold, Nightjar, Strider Titanium Super Flower - Golden Green, Platinum King, Leadex I, Leadex Gold II 750W+, Leadex Gold III 750W+ Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand Platinum, Toughpower Grand/RGB 1200W, Toughpower iRGB Plus, DPS G RGB XFX - Pro Black Edition Limited, XTS 1000W  
Tier B (Budget)
Antec - EDGE, TruePower Classic be Quiet! - Power Zone, System Power 9 =>400 watts Corsair - Vengeance Bronze, CX* (2017), CXM* (2015),  CXM (2012)*=>750w Cooler Master - MWE Bronze =>600w Cougar - GX-S, LX Deepcool - DQ-ST EVGA - B2, BQ =>750, B3, G3 Fractal Design - Integra M FSP - Aurum Pro Lian Li - SFX-L LEPA - G600 Riotoro - Onyx Rosewill - Capstone G SeaSonic - M12II >=750W Silverstone - Bronze SFX V3.0, Strider GS Super Flower - Leadex Silver Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand/RGB, Toughpower DPS DPS Gold/RGB, London, BlueEvo 2.0, Smart Pro RGB, Smart series =>750W, Vivo - 24K 650W XFX -  Pro XXX, Pro XTR, Pro Black, Pro Black FM, TS Gold Xilence - Performance A+, Performance X Zalman - EBT   
Tier C (Prebuilt Replacement)
Antec - EarthWatts/EA Green, High Current Gamer, NEO ECO, Earthwatts Platinum be Quiet! -  Pure Power 10 <=350 watts, Pure Power 11 <=350 watts, Pure Power L9, System Power 9 <=350, Straight Power E9, Pure Power L8 Bitfenix - Fury Cooler Master - GM, GX Storm, MasterWatt Lite, mwe bronze <=500 watt Corsair - CX* 2012*, CXM 2012*, GS-series, VS grey Cougar - STX, VTX Enermax - Revolution X't EVGA - BQ <=650W, NEX Gold Fractal Design - Tesla R2 500W FSP - Aurum, Hydro GE, Aurum CM Inwin - Classic Series Seasonic - SS, SSP, S12II/M12II <=620W, ECO 430W Silverstone - Strider Plus, Bronze SFX (except 450W V3) Thermaltake - Toughpower Gold, Paris XFX - TS <650W, ProSeries Bronze <650W, Core >650W  
Tier D (just don’t buy…)
Antec - Basiq VP-F, Basiq BP, Basiq VP Bitfenix - BPA Cooler Master - B2, Elite Corsair - VS orange Diablotek - all units EVGA - 80 PLUS, Non Certified Enermax - NaXn 82+, Revolution SFX FSP - Raider Silver, Hexa Fractal Design - Integra R2 Gamdias - All units LEPA - MX-F1 MS-Tech - all units Raidmax - all units Rosewill - Hive-S, ARC (M) Silverstone - Strider Essential Tacens - all units Thermaltake - LitePower, ToughPower, Smart series <750W, TR2 XFX - XT Xilence - Performance C Zalman - GS/GT  
I don't see my unit here. Where does it rank?
You may find it in the legacy list, here
 
Why is FOCUS so low?
You can find more on this here.
 

 
Notes:
 

Similar. I'd take the RMx if you have the budget.

The cheapest one you can find with a decent cooler slapped on.

Probably just errors, worst case.
 

well... the only problem i have with inno3d is that i can't find anything about their warranty terms. but if you get it from a retailer, go ahead

Yes, and no.
The tier list was last updated before that unit had reviews. There are now reviews. As such, up it goes.