PineyCreek

4 core, 4GB RAM.  Somewhat modern if it has BT 4.2 I guess.  I could see if it was only being used for typing and emails, but I still wouldn't go out of my way to purchase a no-name brand despite the price.  Vaguely looks like a Dell convertible.
 
Buy it if you want something super basic and you're willing to take the chance that it's actually worthless since it's a brand with little history.  Seems to be a US-based company with most of its business in Africa.  Its business is customer support though, so I don't know if this a reseller or where they're getting the machines from, if indeed this is the same Hugo Tech:
https://hugotech.co/about/

Internally this is a living document, and may change as we move forward, but as part of our push for further transparency, we are publishing it in its current form to help our community better-understand how we classify errors and what action we will be taking to rectify them.
 
Types of errors
Flubs: the host simply misspoke
Incongruencies: information within the video is not in agreement (e.g. host says “$45” while the product page shows “$47”
Bad spec: a table or MOGRT contains incorrect information (e.g. “48MB” instead of “96MB”
Bad data: a graph or visualization contains data (generated by us) that is erroneous, misplaced, or spurious. 
Bad info: a statement or representation in the video that is misleading or factually inaccurate
Types of error correction
Proactive (before the video is posted)
Video pickup: the segment is re-shot with both audio and video
Human audio pickup: new audio is recorded for the segment (visuals have coverage)
AI audio pickup: new voiceover is generated. In the best case this uses a voice model that sounds like the host. However, using a robot voice  can still work.
Text on screen: the editor overlays clarifying or correcting text
This will not be received by viewers who are not (or cannot) watching the screen
Reactive (after the video is posted)
Video Replace: replacing the video with a new version without re-uploading
This relies on YouTube and takes some time. There are fairly strict guidelines around the use of this tool and strong justification must be provided for all changes. This is preferred to a re-upload, but there is likely a soft-limit on how often we can use this resource.
Re-upload the video: Set the original, erroneous video to Private and upload a new version. This will have algorithmic effects, but must be done if replacement is not an option
Pinned comment: add a comment describing the correction. 
This will not be received by viewers who do not check the comments (common, especially for those watching on a Smart TV) and should only be used for low-severity errors.
 
Assessing & Responding to Errors
If any of the following types of errors are discovered prior to filming (e.g. during script review) , fix them before the shoot.
 
1. Very Low Severity
- The statement could possibly be misunderstood, but it’s generally true and most people would be fine with how it’s currently presented.
- eg. The host says, “One of DisplayPort’s main advantages over HDMI is its higher bandwidth,” but this is only true when comparing certain generations of the standards. HDMI 2.1, for example, has much higher bandwidth than DP 1.1.
 
Action: no action
 
2. Low Severity
- The statement is incorrect, and we should try to clarify it better in the future, but we can leave it for now because it doesn’t meaningfully impact a viewer’s purchase decision or general knowledge.
- eg. The host says, “This monitor features moderate pixel response times and contrast because it uses an IPS panel”, but the panel manufacturer is actually AUO, rather than LG, so it’s not an IPS panel - a term which is trademarked by LG - but rather an IPS-type or IPS-like panel.
 
Action: Pinned comment
Note: Pinned comment text must be approved by the Community Coordinator before being posted.
 
3. Medium Severity
- The statement is incorrect, and a minority of the audience could be upset or misled, even if it doesn’t really affect the outcome of the product evaluation for the majority.
- eg. The host says, “This GPU has AMD’s AMF video encoder, which is basically the same as NVIDIA’s NVENC,” but while the stated functionality is the same, NVENC offers better image quality, which could be important to a small minority of buyers.
 
Action: Video replaced if possible according to YouTube policy, otherwise pinned comment and above fold mention of the issue in the video description
If doing a video replace, a pinned comment should communicate this is coming and note the expected changes. This comment should be un-pinned when the video replace is complete. 
Note: Pinned comment text must be approved by the Community Coordinator before being posted.
 
4. High Severity
- The statement is incorrect, and a significant portion of the audience could be misled or make a poorly-informed purchase decision.
- eg. The host says, “This is a great gaming monitor,” when in fact, the monitor is a 60Hz VA display that, while ‘fine’ for playing games, lacks important gaming-centric features that could be easily had for the same price, making it a poor choice. 
 
Action: Video replaced if possible according to YouTube policy. Otherwise, set unlisted and disable monetization until corrective action can be taken. 
If doing a video replace, a pinned comment should communicate this is coming and note the expected changes. This comment should be un-pinned when the video replace is complete. 
Note: Pinned comment text must be approved by the Community Coordinator before being posted.
 
5. Very High Severity
- The statement is VERY incorrect—basically the opposite of correct. There is no charitable interpretation that could make this anything but completely irresponsible.
- ex. The host says, “Most games require only one high-performance core to perform their best,” when that hasn’t been true for over a decade.
 
Action: Video removed or remade

So each speaker L/R has one RCA, right?  You want to use this speaker pair for both?
 
I'd get a cheap composite switcher myself.  Alternatively if you want both active all the time, just get appropriate 2/1 adapters for each speaker, run the 2 L channels from TV and PC to the L adapter, same for right side.
 
It could work, sure.  Not elegant, but works.  Don't think I much like the idea of taking audio from both sources at the same time though.  I'd use the switcher for isolation.
 
A pic might help if my assumption is wrong.

The 3050 SFF only has a 180W PSU.  I think it might come with a 240W if it had a GPU from factory.  The GPU options that came with it were up to an R7 450.  So for GPU I would suggest any low-profile, single-slot GPU that doesn't require extra power connections that will fit in the chassis...which will limit you quite a bit.  I see here that it looks like low-profile GT 1030 cards or Radeon 5450 would work.

https://www.dell.com/community/Optiplex-Desktops/Optiplex-SFF-mini-tower-graphics-card/td-p/6023730/page/3
 
I guess the questions I have are more along the specifics of your build:
1) Do you have the 180W or 240W?
2) How much space do you have to install a GPU, both free slot space (ex. does the chassis have enough room for a 2 slot card) and card length?
3) Do you have a problem shutting Secure Boot Off, considering the Dell BIOS won't let you put a non-OEM card in the chassis otherwise, from what I've been reading?

All a matter of personal preference then.  There's nothing stopping you from keeping old drives as backups (in storage, outside the computer) in case something fails as well, aside from extra clutter.

If you have to pick between the drives and only choose one, then I'd take the 2TB for capacity, unless you plan to regularly load music/videos off that drive and can't stand to wait a few seconds for the usual power-savings to spin the drive back up once again.  If you can keep two, I'd keep the 2TB for capacity and the 500GB SSD for items you want to load a tiny bit faster but not important enough to put on your main fastest drive that you're using for OS, etc.

YES. While pinning on the motherboard side of the PSU are standardized, the one connecting the cable with the PSU modular ports are not. Every vendor have different pinouts unless specified or you can verify it yourself with a multimeter, so DONT RISK IT AND USE THE SAME MODULAR CABLE THAT CAME WITH THE PSU OR THOSE SPECIFIC FOR YOUR MAKE AND MODEL.

Normal when card is less under load.  If you run GPU-Z while the card is under load it will likely say PCI-E 4.0 @ 4.0.  My 1080Ti also shows as 1.1 in GPU-Z until I start playing something.

Cheating in a video game is completely fine so long as it's not affecting anyone's play experience except your own (i.e. single player only).  Other people that think you're robbing yourself of the proper experience and want to open their mouths should sit down and mind their own business.
 
People that complain about video games being too hard should stick to games that are the right difficulty for them and not complain about the existence of said games.
 
People that get a thrill out of particularly unforgiving games should enjoy them, while not being jerks to people that don't enjoy the same challenges they do.  People that tell others to 'git gud' should be slapped, figuratively.  Possibly physically.

Cheating in a video game is completely fine so long as it's not affecting anyone's play experience except your own (i.e. single player only).  Other people that think you're robbing yourself of the proper experience and want to open their mouths should sit down and mind their own business.
 
People that complain about video games being too hard should stick to games that are the right difficulty for them and not complain about the existence of said games.
 
People that get a thrill out of particularly unforgiving games should enjoy them, while not being jerks to people that don't enjoy the same challenges they do.  People that tell others to 'git gud' should be slapped, figuratively.  Possibly physically.

Worst case scenario is messing with timings manually, which is precisely what I had to with my 2x32G 3600mhz kit in my server (r5 3600, B450M S2H v2) it wouldn’t even run past 2400mhz otherwise meanwhile now runs happily at 3800mhz with even tighter timings (iirc)

Ubiquiti's forums (various angry customer rants aside) are usually helpful with the community moderator/support directing you to directly work on a support ticket with them if necessary, or you could skip that and use help.ui.com and file an official ticket directly (help.ui.com -> Support Resources at the top right -> contact support).

I would sincerely suggest posting on the Ubiquiti forums directly for this a la community.ui.com and then reference the community post in the event you need to do an RMA on it.

for anyone in the future...found it!
 
https://winraid.level1techs.com/t/anyone-know-if-its-possible-to-get-nvidia-usb-typle-c-port-policy-controller-for-windows-7/35433
 

You can overclock a toaster if you pump more power into it than it's designed for.

The only real way to kill it is to cut the dry wall out around the mold, run a massive dehumidifier in your apartment and bleach everything it's touched. 
 
Insurance and landlords should be doing this. Not you.
GTFO that apartment.

Yeah, no USB-C connections on the mobo, nor on the GPU (just checked) so kinda silly, but I see why it exists. I'll poke around online and see if drivers exist, now that I know what to look for.
 
Thanks!

This seems relevant:
If I'm reading this right, somehow it's providing a way for the GPU to use the USB-C on the computer for VR applications? I guess unless you want that you could just disable it.  Or perhaps see if your motherboard or any peripheral cards with USB have the latest drivers, chipset drivers, but that's a shot in the dark.
 
Edit: something to do with VirtualLink? Supposedly not on 16XX cards though. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VirtualLink

If you have any doubts, then buy it.  I'd take the RM850x just for a the maglev fan myself, but it's not necessary.  For a point of comparison though, I have an Evga 1080Ti FTW3 with my RM850x, I don't think my entire computer hits more than 500W during gaming.  Might be a tiny bit more since I just went from a 1700 to a 5800x.

There will always be something better, there will always be something worse, something cheaper, something more expensive...and none of those have to correlate.
 
That being said, I've had an RM850x since late 2017 and it has been rock solid.  There's been quite a few revisions on both RM850 and RM850X and even Corsair barely does anything to help anyone see the difference.  The ATX spec might be different depending on what year or part you get, but unlikely anything that would matter.  I think I'd leave the PSU alone though unless your're having issues during high GPU-load issues.  Does it crash if you run something like 3dmark or furmark?  Alternatively if you have a UPS or something like a Kill-a-watt you could check wattage in realtime.

Oof. Ok, try checking resmon (Resource monitor) or task manager and watch disk writes?

This will probably be the PSU doing it, if you have a spare in the house hook it up for the sake of a test but my money is going to be the PSU is causing that pop and flick at the end.
 

Oh, the warranty's already gone.  I checked and verified it was bought May 2017. The Celsius S36 came with a 5 year warranty.  To its credit, it seems to be performing as well as it did when it was first installed.  There's signs of permeation, sure, but for example, not enough to where you hear large amounts of sloshing, etc. when you move the case.  I've found out that my view of Tmax on synthetic benchmarks is flawed.  In the past few generations it's more common to ramp up high or hit max, and your performance is more based on how much cooling you have moreso.  For example, during those synthetic benchmarks when the internal CPU temp was always hitting its max limit, it still wasn't thermally throttling (per HWINFO64 flags and also frequency observations).

Think that's an X-Fi PCI from 2005. They're selling for like 50-70 USD on Ebay.
 
Lol @Eigenvektor @ the retro build comment as I look at the SB16 ISA card I have on my shelf.
 

If a particular problem can be due to multiple factors, you can take your time trying to fix each factor and retesting to see if the problem is fixed. That takes time.
 
Or you could do what the technician did and address all of the factors at once and hope something gets fixed. You might never know the exact factor but, at the end of the day, the problem was solved quickly.
 
I'm not trying to justify the technician's method, but his "fix" was likely faster than trying to find the root cause and more cost-effective.