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If it is possible to bring it over towards the heatpipe over to the fan heatsink that would be best. But even adding a larger copper shim and coupling it to the chassis or bottom cover even if it is plastic will still help some in terms of heat dissipation. It won't be good as say a proper heatsink or if the casing is aluminum but do some good.

As a test try putting a heatsink on to see if it alleviates the issue. Even a thinner heatsinkor copper shim or low profile heatsink should work but if you are able to get a heatpipe over onto the fans or cooling array that would work best. If nothing is being used in the M.2 area that might be a good spot for just a low profile heatsink and a heat pipe over onto the PCH.

As said that's perfectly acceptable given your extension cord is not as thin as a shoe string, any normal general purpose (18AWG) extension would work.

Try to see if the seller is willing to do a refund but bent pins are somewhat fixable long as they are not broken off. I've had success fixing a friends board before but it takes a fair bit of time and patience to get them back into place. Good thing to do is to carefully bend them back place the CPU into the socket and then take it out to check the positioning and if any need further adjustment.

Depends on your application if you want it fixed like for a POS system or integrating with other machines since there are lots of options for that kind of setup. You might want to look into setups for the food and beverage industry or healthcare. Here is an example: https://www.iportproducts.com/for-business https://www.iportproducts.com/charge-case-and-stand

If they are slightly raised you can take some fine grit sandpaper > 400grit and give it a light polish/sand to take off the high spots. It will help but not make a huge difference as the paste will take up slight irregularities like this.

Those look pretty superficial unless there are raised bits that catch your finger nail. Make sure your AIO unit is plugged into a header that provides it the full 12V depending on your unit some are not designed to run on analog voltage control but a PWM signal to change the pump speed.

- Related Thread Merged -

Demciflex makes custom sized filter if you want to replace them with something else, they also have stadnard ones for cases but not sure for the 5000D.

What controller are you using, make sure if it is on different pins and not a splitter that the configuration on the second pinout is not setup differently. Just as a quick test try swapping the connection around to see if it still occurs on the questionable fan.

If you want to match the retro style the Antec Lanboy if you can find one is probably as much mesh as it gets with still being an enclosure.

There are both good and bad ones, so it depends where you get them from, the ones linked seems alright as said there have been situations where ones have shorted. I personally recommended ones from liheat they are very well regarded due to the length of testing they go through but it comes at a cost, i believe they are the suppliers for Lian Li. https://www.liheat.com.tw/en/product_cg127116.html

Daisy chaining USB hubs isn't usually the best thing, as said it could also be a power delivery issue. If needed you can get a USB extension lead or try to directly connect to the side or rear of the monitor to see if that resolves the disconnection issue. https://www.tripplite.com/2-port-usb-3.0-superspeed-desktop-extension-cable-male-2x-female-6ft~U324006DSK2

Try seeing if you can update the drivers for the USB 3.0 ports I have seen this before on some systems that use a third party chip and for the front USB where it will sometimes just auto disconnect and then reconnect the USB 3.0 ports. Eliminate the hub from the equation also when testing as less variables will help pint down the issue better.

-Moved to Troubleshooting-

Units like those are line active units so it will detect when the power quality degrades and kick in the AVR/filter if needed or completely disconnect from the grid if it's really bad until it improves. Those units have a live graph or digital display which you can turn on and see the incoming line voltage and frequency which should give you a quick idea if the wall power coming in was bad. As for wattage you only need what your system draws so it you have a 600W PSU but the maximum the system consumes is 400W a UPS just larger than that will be enough, more overhead is always better however especially for longer run time if power cuts out.

Believe Bosch was the first to implement this but it was more for tool tracking in industrial or commercial use and if they took it off the jobsite that it would deactivate.

It's not too difficult long as one has the tools as Falken said but I would try cleaning the pads with some isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab to see if it clears up first. But if it still has display issues then I'd try going down the avenue of retinning the pads.

Looks almost like the edges of the pads are degrading, you can try cleaning them off with some isopropyl to see if it resolves the issue. However the next best step if the base copper plane is still intact and hasn't delaminated is to apply a thin coating of solder or re-tin the pads to see if it's an electrical contact issue. I'd also closely inspect the pins for the PCI-E slot to make sure it's not damaged.

If it's only in that single spot I'd keep a close eye on it it could be tiny pinhole leak if it still continues after cleaning it off, I'd see about opening a ticket with NZXT to see what their thought is.

My guess is that it is residual release powder or chalking up of the rubber tubing from manufacturing that is making it's way through the sleeving. It's nothing to really worry about long as it's not something that's leaking itself.

In the Modding Guide there is a section called templates which holds a small repository of drawings including one from protocase regarding case building and layout.

If you are just cutting an opening for example and don't want to repaint the whole case you can use a paint marker and touch up the cut edge or any scratches that occur without having to to through the process of refinishing the whole case or panel to match.

Hmm while not cheap it looks like Corsair has a complete front panel sleeved extension kit that has really tight weave. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Cases/Premium-Sleeved-Front-Panel-Extension-Kit-30cm/p/CC-8900244 https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Braided-Sleeved-Extension/dp/B07L692H65

Cable Mod makes them in extensions, Bitfenix back in the day used to also have a variety but I don't think they make smaller cable extensions anymore only the main power cables. https://cablemod.com/product-category/cable-extensions/internal-usb/