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W-L

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Everything posted by W-L

  1. A drain usually drains the majority of the water most times but may leave you with some sections with a front rad with top ports with fluid inside. Some rads a bleed port on the other end which I've used also as a drain in some situations but preplanning the loop for draining is the best. If needed you can place it flat down and move it around to try and move the fluid towards the drain.
  2. Mounting a drive on the back isn't a problem given that there is some space for heat dissipation and it's done securely. I would personally recommend using 3M dual Lock over Velcro as it doesn't let go overtime and try to find a metal tray with a lot of surface area of the dual lock to adhere to.
  3. For aluminum extrusions they are very modular and easy to work with due to the vast number of brackets and adjustability. In terms of tools the basics would be a miter box with a metal hand saw, some files for deburring and the needed mounting hardware to attach extrusions together. If you want to get a bit more complex having a drill and tap for cutting threads in the ends or portions of the extrusions can sometimes be helpful.
  4. Do not mix and match fluids together everything in the propylene glycol will be enough for mixed metal given the proper concentration.
  5. Looks like that is a piece of the threaded block or a section of oring that got sliced, I would personally replace it especially if it's very flat from extended use. I personally replace all the orings in the fittings every 3 years or so. Those bitspower ones are good I've used those before.
  6. I'd go with the tried and true method of using ethylene or propylene glycol as it is what is they use in the AIO's originally.
  7. I would give it a slight turn to see if it's loose to tighten it down on the block but don't overdo it. If it's still leaking you might have a bad o ring between the compression fitting and block which can be replaced. It would need to have the loop drained to do so.
  8. It may be possible but probably more hassle than it is worth, you could always get a similar for factor case with the added cost and time to modify the current one. https://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=536&area=en
  9. Oh they're way past any kind of warranty at this point that one was an old block, the issue I found was the screws were heavily over torqued from factory compressing the actual acrylic. The only reason they cracked was due to the removal of that stress and opening the block during cleaning. I had a similar issue happen to a CPU block like with OP but spider like lines which they were able to help me source a new top section.
  10. Simplest would be to take dryer sheets that have the static reducer and to just gently wipe down the panel. in commercial applications we have static sprays or ionizer bars we pass materials under to reduce static clinging.
  11. As others have mentioned you are best to check during maintenance of the loop to take it apart and verify it's integrity. From the looks of things that looks like a scalloped failure and will require a complete top replacement. Minor hairline cracks can also form from stress overtime or even happen after you remove the top and let it sit due to the sudden change of the stress in the material. I've had plexi tops form tiny spider like cracks under screw holes right in front of my eyes when releasing that long term stress. Minor hairline cracks can be touched up but ideally should be replaced.
  12. Even with corrosion there isn't too much to worry about as long as the sealing surfaces are intact, being a pure copper base there is less likely hood of that occurring given the proper additives. I've got some now 6 year old blocks that are plated with heavy nickel corrosion due to age and just wear from waterflow from running a lot of pastel fluid over the years and while they aren't as nice looking they perform exactly the same as when they were brand new.
  13. I've always gone with a mix of <50% isopropyl and distilled water for cleaning monitors for sensitive surfaces. Most times a damp towel is enough to get most stuff off.
  14. Never heard of the plugs being an issue but if it is a concern you can always get replacements.
  15. -Moved to Case and Power Supplies-
  16. Places like Cold Zero make custom acrylic parts and has some options for extended PSU shrouds. https://www.coldzero.eu/search?controller=search&s=h500
  17. As others have brought up having this pigment in a water cooling fluid is a bit of an issue due to it being in a suspension and having to not settle out or clog, as for paint however you can purchase thermochromic paint it exists as an exotic coating mainly for aesthetic purposes like on a car. The simplest method I've seen would be to have a thermochromatic pigment mixed in something like a clear or plasti-dip rubber coating which is commonly applied to vehicles to change their look with the addition of reverting back to stock.
  18. I've used generic ones like these before without issue, main thing is getting ones with good jaws with sharp edges. I tend to stay away from ones that use painted jaws and stick to the powdered bare metal ones. https://www.amazon.co.uk/KKmoon-Crimpers-Professional-Engineering-0-14-1-5mm²/dp/B01J2SB8EW
  19. Yes that is normal because you will be topping that off with a set of stiff springs and thumb screws which will apply the needed downwards pressure. The small gap is good for allowing very minor differences in height between different setups.
  20. Make sure that PSU is sitting flat down on the pads of the bottom of the case to ensure you don't have a bunch of potential weight just hanging from the rear bolts. If forst comes to worst you can try setting up a small block of foam under it to see if that alleviates the vibration.
  21. Is there a hard drive or something mechanical near it that couples to it like a fan or such? If it vibrates slightly and just at the correct speed to match the resonance it will cause pretty loud vibration.
  22. Most manufacture's are able to provide replacement hardware, try contacting them directly to see what they can arrange. -Moved to liquid and exotic cooling-
  23. Since that is a pretty compact build and having a downdraft GPU it will cause it to heat up the surroundings quite a bit. I would look into getting something like an AIO which will be able to carry the heat out more easily if you have a 120mm rear mounted unit or if you can fit in a 240 to front mount. Bumps shouldn't be an issue with an AIO as the mass is really all placed in the rad and mounted firmly to the chassis, heavy and large tower coolers are usually not the best for that applicaiton. Also since you will be running this in truck be sure your inverter for your vehicle is
  24. For line conditioners it's not really necessary if you have a UPS since any decent unit will have a built in AVR to adapt to changes in line voltage and if the main supply coming in gets too noisy or poor quality it will directly just switch to battery until power quality improves. Only time it's really beneficial is if line quality is extremely poor which should warrant further investigation as to why.
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