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About FRD

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  1. What a troll. I think this price is better ($2000 discount!): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001947862189.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.2.62c921a7U8A9qq&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=33653b35-0010-4834-8e1e-49ed23728a72&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:33653b35-0010-4834-8e1e-49ed23728a72,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2323_668%230%23131923%2323_668%23888%233325%2316_668%23888%233325%2316_668%232846%238108%231977_668%232717%237564%23
  2. Then I think you should choose the Crucial Ballistix. It's cheaper and faster. It has RGB too or not? Only choose the Corsair if you like the look more and want RGB lights.
  3. Sorry to burst your bubble, but that's definitely a scam. Hacked account, free shipping, many in stock, 0 feedback as a seller and obviously too cheap price. Don't fall for it, it will take you days, week or even months to get your Paypal money back. 1080 Tis go for over $500 these days, so it's impossible. You will have to find a 1660 Ti or some other card for more expensive instead and not be scammed.
  4. From my experience Ebay's cards are too expensive. See if you have something like a local marketplace where you can maybe find one and pick it up. Those usually have better deals. The GT 9800 you have is 99% sure not going to start MSFS2020 at all. If you have an iGPU, use that since it's probably a lot better. Another card you could look for is the RX470, RX480, RX570 or RX580. But only the 4GB version, the 8GB is too expensive right now. They can be found for €100-€200.
  5. Well I know for a fact that just cleaning your pc and especially fans from dust can help quite a bit just for the noise. Except for that like said you can adjust your fan curves and buy Noctua fans since those are really quiet. The most expensive way is going full watercooling, but not recommended.
  6. For the Corsair one I think you mean the Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro, not just Pro. The better one here is the Crucial Ballistix, because it's 3600mhz and that's faster than 3200mhz. The faster Crucial Ballistix must be more expensive though. What are the prices? Both of these are really good, but personally I prefer the Corsair just for the looks and it has RGB.
  7. Yep, it is coilwhine. Usually you can't really fix it, some people RMA it and get it replaced. Also, I'm sorry but the PSU you chose is not a good one. The rest of your parts are good, but the PSU is in Tier E according to the list here. If possible try to send it back and get a better one. Now I would not recommend upgrading or using a good GPU in combination with this PSU.
  8. Yes, the Ryzen 7 5800X is even better, but also more expensive and you don't need that for just gaming. Unless you maybe want to play at 2K high refresh rate or 4K maybe and get a high end gpu with that. For your monitor at least a Ryzen 5 3600 or Ryzen 5 5600X is just fine. Also, do you really want to spend a lot on that fancy G.Skill Trident Z Royal ram? It's at least a $50 price premium just because of the special look. Better get G.Skill Trident Z, G.Skill Trident Z Neo or Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro at 3200 or 3600mhz speed.
  9. I think it's an okay keyboard, but I don't have it. From the reviews I see most people like it, some dislike it. It's an older keyboard already, so maybe it doesn't have good software or something, but I think keyboards don't get old easily. You could also try to look for other secondhand Razer keyboards like the Cynosa Lite or Cynosa V2 or Cynosa Chrome. I've seen them below 30 Euros before. Another good option I suggest is a (secondhand again) Logitech G213.
  10. Cheapest monitors with G-Sync, either 144hz or 165hz and 1080p are: - Acer Nitro VG242YP - AOC G2590PX - AOC G2590FX - ASUS VG248QG - Gigabyte G27F - LG 27GL650F-B These are all just above £200 though. Below £200 you can only find monitors without G-Sync. From this list my personal preference would be the Asus or Gigabyte. Or the LG if you spend a bit more.
  11. I guess from now you should try to install the chipset drivers and see if that helps. It might also help reduce that huge list of system devices there. See if it works. If it doesn't, then it also could be something like faulty or bad USBs on your case. It does happen, but it's quite rare. I also ever saw a thing of "fake" USB 3 ports. I often see them sold on Chinese websites, basically they are just USB 2.0 with a blue color instead of black. It's irrelevant though.
  12. It's not sure then what it is, but it still could be the limiting factor of the HDD only having 5400rpm. Either on the WD Blue the headers could be parked and start spinning again or the cache could be full at the moment of the stutter. You would have to test with a new 7200rpm HDD if you really want to know if it's the HDD. But since you're getting a SATA SSD, I think you should be fine.
  13. I had no idea boards like those actually exist. New and old technology mixed. Checked the Ryzen one, it's not the most pretty looking one, but it certainly has nice connector options. Gladly I don't need it that much and I still have an old unused with PCI somewhere, but it's a great modern solution.
  14. Thanks for the link. I looked around and I made a different configuration for you:. CPU: Intel® Skylake Core™ i5-6600K, 4 x (3900Mhz Real Cores Turbo Mode / FSB 8000MTs / 6Mb cache / 81W / socket 1151) RAM: 8Gb DDR4, 2400Mhz Apacer HDD: 1000Gb, SATA 3Gbs 16Mb cache NCQ class WD 5400 119Mbs SSD: SSD 120Gb, SATA3 Apacer 410Mbs, TLC GPU: Geforce GTX1660 Ti 6Gb, 192bit, GDDR6 10.000MHz, 1536Cuda Cores, Memory Bandwidth 254Gb/s, Physix, HDMI, DX12 MB: Intel H110, DDR4 2X (2133MHz), FSB 4800MTs, socket 1151, Core™ Processor ready, Intel® Turbo Boost T