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Everything posted by W-L

  1. It is based on a D5 base but it's not the same as the standard D5. There are some unique caveats such as the speed control option vs PWM and impeller design. https://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/31/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-pump-review/
  2. Hmm interesting normally they do not coat fittings with a deposition coating, just regular paint.
  3. They aren't PFTE coated but painted, you can use a stiff bristle brush and cleaning cloths, I usually use test tube brushes to clean off the fittings, if they are extremely stubborn a soft metal brush like a brass fitting brush can be helpful sometimes.
  4. That's definitely not normal, must be something wrong with the PWM controller on the pump, EKWB should be able to get you a replacement pump no problem.
  5. Yes that will work as long as the total length of them are of the height of the GPU.
  6. Not an exact technical name for them but standoff is what it would fall under. Open bench uses something similar and calls them PCI-E standoffs: https://openbenchtable.com/features/#pcie
  7. Welcome to the Forums! What motherboard do you have most will have the option to configure the fan/pump header for PWM or DC voltage control.
  8. Fusion 360 is a good program it just takes time to get used to, I personally am fond of Solidworks so everything felt backwards to me when I first worked with it Post up some photos with what you come up with loved to see the design!
  9. If you have a CNC router or mill the sky is the limit but in terms of prototyping I'd recommend to just start with a general hand drawn layout with cardboard from your models to get a feel of the layout and placement of ports before going directly into getting it made. A template of the layout with ports being laser cut from card stock or even sheet acrylic is good to start off from to then look at getting something machined. Assuming that it's going to be made from acrylic at the end you will want to look for cast material not the extruded stuff and ideally not a glass hard acryli
  10. If this is something completely custom making a specific plate to your rads would be best but if you want to have it on the market or just options to work with different rads you could have it so there is a modular port section. That could allow you to make modular plates to apply over the port area with a variety of hole spacing to accommodate, also if the layout for those rad ports on the distro plate is far enough away using offset fittings or bending an offset could be a viable option.
  11. It depends on the distro plate, as most are being side mounted theses days such as this the ports on the plate don't really matter much as long as they are inline since the rads can be mounted in the same plane and the differences in distance between the two ports themselves are taken care of by the single 90 degree tubing bend. If it was something that was basement mounted for example the spacing between the ports would be more crucial.
  12. Since it's outside of the case just take apart the loop for a proper cleaning. Yo can use tap water to clean the loop and then do some final rinises with distilled.
  13. You will want to take apart the loop to clean out completely if there is any build up or gunk in blocks they will need to be opened for cleaning. The rad you can used a diluted solution of vingear and water to clean it out before flushing with a baking soda mix to neutralize and clean out with regular water afterwards. Before you reassemble you will want to do a full distilled water flush.
  14. That 120V fan set in the top is speed adjustable so you can tun down the noise level as for the 1U that is probably your noisiest part being 42-48 dB. As said you would need to get a power adapter and some relatively powerful but quieter fans. I would suggest to look at getting a server cabinet that has free airflow front and back to let the servers and components inside to properly breath since that unit is almost completely sealed.
  15. I usually recommend to fill it part ways 1/3 to 1/2 and to shake it around to loosen anything that may be inside. Being they are hardware labs rads and come from the factory very clean I don't think you will have an issue with the flushing you've done so far.
  16. I haven't heard of issues occurring with soldered on RAM but there is always the potential like with any RAM once you start mixing and matching. -Duplicate Thread Merged-
  17. No, only nickel, brass and copper should be put together in a loop to guarantee no galvanic corrosion issues the metals. Check XSPC they make an ultrathin series of rads: http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-tx-series
  18. Just a word of warning if you have any nickel material in your loop, ie blocks fittings etc, you cannot use silver as they are borderline dissimilar metals in a loop environment. I personally am in the recommendation for premixed fluids as they come with the proper biocides and anti-corrosive agents. Also what specific components do you have in your loop? Being that's it's new components unless it was not flushed cleaned completely or had a reaction with some residual cleaner/vingear it's not normal for it to go cloudy.
  19. You can use a male to male rotary fitting if you have the two ports directly facing each other, but if you want it angled like they are in the photo a set of angled adapters would be necessary in conjunction with the male to male fitting.
  20. Depending on what you are trying to achieve you are best to design a passively cooled system where the heatsinking directly interfaces out to the exterior surfaces for cooling.
  21. The order of the loop doesn't matter since the fluid moves around the loop at such a fast rate. Only thing that needs to be consider is the reservoir being placed above and before the pump so it doesn't run dry. Also for a single GPU and CPU loop a single good quality pump like a D5 of DDC is more than enough, other than to have a secondary unit for redundancy purposes.
  22. Most modern GPU's have zero RPM mode for noise and you can adjust the fan curve for when you will want it to turn on. At 50C there is nothing to worry about, completely safe.
  23. Yes to follow up with everyone they're good quality, I've used their parts in builds and have had friends use their blocks with no issues at all. One point to remember is that since they are mainly located overseas warranty is more difficult if you do need to sort anything out.
  24. XSPC has a 35mm version of the multiport, if having that option is of high importance. However from the top of my head I don't recall the performance of this rad being very high comparing to similar units from Alphacool or hardware labs. http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ex-series/ex240-multiport-radiator
  25. Yes mentioned it can be done and any regular spray paint will work as the heat from the heatspreaders are not anywhere near high enough to cause an issue. I have a guide that goes over the details of this including painting and plasti-dip