Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

W-L

Moderator
  • Content Count

    27,374
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by W-L

  1. As said by thrasher keeping the pump connected to the motherboard CPU header is a good idea to ensure that there is no problem with cooling or the potential of the pump dying which would give an RPM warning. Same for the PSU and motherboard as they are essentially synced together already.
  2. For the motherboard power switch yes you will want a momentary switch, as for the other if you want to have a toggle like switch similar to a race car arming all the system before starting that can be done. Just note that those will have to be latching push switches or a regular on/off toggle, for things like the pump and the lights. Only thing is the PSU the only way to toggle that would be to do so using the switch on the back of the unit.
  3. I personally have one of the Heatkiller D5 combo units, they're pretty nice there is also a channel in the rear of one of the supports for you to install some thin LED's if you want to backlight the res. Also this unit unlike the others has a glass tube section. https://thermalbench.com/2016/12/13/watercool-heatkiller-tube-200-d5-reservoir/2/
  4. It very much depends on what you want done, something simple like a PSU shroud or custom radiator mounts etc are easy but if you want a complete custom case as others have suggested places like Proto case would be your best bet or a local metal shop. Just note that stuff like that for a one off will be expensive.
  5. If you are comfortable working with acrylic you can heat bend a sheet to create one. There are also custom cover made palaces like cold zero specialize in that kind of work. https://www.coldzero.eu/
  6. I usually recommend the cable mod LED's they're quite good and have a remote control function for independent control if your motherboard does not have built in RGB headers. There are others out there also with similar kits available such as Deep cool and Coolermaster depending on your local availability. https://cablemod.com/product/cablemod-widebeam-magnetic-rgb-led-strip-60cm/
  7. For vinyl that depends on what you are doing to it, if you are referring to vinyl wrap like film then that can get cut on a laser but may be best to have done on a vinyl plotter since it may distort from the heat of the laser. If you want to for example powder coat or paint a surface with and then burn through that coating to get nice crisp text or logos that can be done relatively easily. Not certain about etching vinyl wrap I think it most likely will melt or burn through since the film is relatively thin.
  8. As mentioned you may be able to do this all on the motherboard since some have a Temp in option for a fluid sensor, you will need to check for that. You can then set the pump to the lowest possible setting. Most boards don't allow for the CPU fan to run at zero RPM so it will have to have some kind of RPM line feedback.
  9. Laser marking fabric is doable this is commonly down now in industry to add patterns or distress jeans. For fabric what you're thinking of is heat embossing that applies a layer of plastic onto of the fabric. Those are good but tend to crack or degrade from age. Some higher quality products will have inkjet dye printing. are
  10. That i'm not completely certain on but that "color" laser engraver should be able to also etch regular surfaces like aluminium/anodizing and paint without issue also.
  11. Yes what's essentially happening is you are engraving a recess in a material for paint to adhere well to and then afterwards just removing that paint from certain areas to obtain a logo or lettering for example. This is useful for materials that cannot be colored at all like on plastic which would just melt or give a burned or grayed text look normally.
  12. It essentially had to do with how the laser marks or interacts with the material to create that thin film oxide, different power, speed, and a host of other settings determine these parameters. Depending on the manufacture some may have general guidelines provided if you tell them the marking application while others will not have any information and it will be up to the operator to determine it's settings. These sample cards are a good example of what can be potentially achieved on the appropriate materials. https://www.permanentmarking.com/how-to-utilize-color-laser
  13. What you mostly will have occur with standard household products is just 2 tone engraving, not color engraving as the material the product is made of needs to be made of stainless steel which is the most commonly used for thin film oxide engraving to achieve those colors. It's not the laser that makes the color but the interaction with light and the base material to achieve it. What can be done however is to laser etch into the surface of material to then have coloring added to fill in the lasered void to achieve a colored log. Things like aluminum like on a phone will
  14. Unfortunately due to the way shielding has to be maintained and the connectors at the end it's not as feasible to have it in a round cable format. There are manufacture's that are narrower which may help in your application if space is of concern. https://www.highflow.nl/hardware/videokaarten/li-heat-pci-e-gen-3.0-ribbon-flexible-riser-cable-v2-black.html
  15. It is reliable but you need very good process control and tuning, as the laser itself will also degrade with age and require periodic tuning and calibration on top of everything that is been discussed this far. Laser engraving on products is very relevant since it's superior to a physical application of something on top of a material's surface or even chemical etching due to the speed and reliability not to mention variability being able to change a design file and continue lasering where other processes will have much more work involved. What are you considering doing with this m
  16. This is a legitimate product, how those colors are achieved is essentially though thin film interference using the base material itself. Essentially you are forming a colored oxide layer, this is mainly used on stainless and titanium parts as those yield the best color spectrum. As with all lasering based operations all of this is done via trial and error there is no set method or option to just select a color as you have about a few dozen parameters you can configure in the laser and this is not including the material itself which can greatly affect the coloring. Even buying the
  17. For white paint you are best to look for automotive paints as they usually have the best brightness and vibrancy compared to regular hardware store stuff. Brining a small piece of the case that's white to compare can also help, as some places can even color match to something that will be close to what they have on shelf or custom mix something.
  18. Try looking for local sheet metal/fabrication companies some may be willing on take on one off jobs but in terms of fabrication if you wanted to even have something done yourself you can look at using a scroll saw to cut out the opening and mark the locations for drilling using a drill press. For $500 that sounds about right for a one off part that require both tool path times and machine time to laser cut and post process. If you have a university or college nearby see if they have a shop that they may be able to have students fabricate sheet metal components.
  19. It looks very similar to the Barrow style of the D5 they aren't considered to be a rebrand of the D5. A real D5 will have a stainless impeller and surround as the pump itself is also cooled by the fluid that flows through it, these are just the same form factor. For the cost if you ware looking for a slightly more cost effective solution a low power DDC isn't a bad option.
  20. Flow isn't very relevant what you mainly want is to look for is pressure as you are trying to force the fluid through the blocks for cooling. If you want a budget pump that's still decent quality I'd recommend to go with something like the DC-LT from Alphacool they aren't the most powerful thing out there but for the price not bad and deemed relatively reliable. It's used in their eisbaer expandable AIO units. https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/alphacool-dc-lt/dc-lt-pumps/13012/alphacool-dc-lt-3600-ceramic-12v-dc-pump-bulk-version?c=6542
  21. I don't really recommend going really cut throat and getting aliexpress or cheap watercooling components, they don't need to be the absolute best of the best but still get good quality stuff to last. Main thing you want to avoid is mixing metals and get all copper based loop components. In terms of waterblock, and fittings I'd recommend to look at barrow or Bykski as they are more of a budget option while still being good quality and comparable to nicer blocks. For the pump if you want to save a little the DDC or lower power versions like the variants like SPC60 from EKWB are alri
  22. I'm guessing it's probably some flux or debris from the rads mainly that came out, it's always best to flush and rinse the rads before assembly. I usually recommend to fill them around 50% with just tap water to vigorously shake and rinse, to do that about a half dozen times before giving it a final wash with distilled water. It's probably alright for the time being and you can let it be until the next maintenance cycle just keep and eye on temps to ensure it's not building up.
  23. Was the components mainly the rads properly flushed before assembly? It may have been something also during manufacturing when they assembled the block leaving a film on some surfaces. What are your watercooling loop components?
  24. How long has it been since you did maintenance, usually you want to change fluid every 6-12 months and open for cleaning if there is any build up. Some minor build up or coating of surfaces can occur so you will need to take apart the GPU block and open it for cleaning, before properly reassembling it.
  25. As said that's not really a viable print project nor is it suited to be printed, you would be better off getting it made by a metal or plastics shop which can cut and bend it to shape.
×