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Everything posted by W-L

  1. Oh my previous message didn't post, but as angry beaver has said your temps are reasonable and not anything out of the ordinary, if you are trying to keep boost clocks high lower temps help due to how it manages the higher boost clocks. Given that you are below 50C under load I would say that all those are very reasonable.
  2. You have a second RGB header on that board that you can use as long as this burning/heating issue has been resolved. Just make sure your device is compatible for that header.
  3. Because it's a lower voltage in theory it shouldn't harm it but being that it's lower you may not be running within it's specs and encounter power reliability issues if the unit even turns on. Being a 3V different that is most likely going to be out of that range and some laptops these days will actually verify the correct batter is install and won't boot if you use non-compatible ones.
  4. No that's not good you have a dead short somewhere hopefully just a component which can be removed. However see if they are willing to cover the board under warranty or help in the repair process. If you have a local electronics repair they should know how to at least remove the shorted components to have it still function just without RGB. Also what RGB fan and motherboard is this?
  5. Welcome to the forums! That won't work since the device is expecting 14.8V being lower it most likely won't even turn on thinking that the battery is damaged or extremely low.
  6. What RGB fan did you plug in most require a dedicated controller for them to work. Unfortunately if it was not the correct RGB protocol then they mos likely will not be accepted for warranty, however if the board still works then you are just out the RGB control.
  7. It depends how many are needed but as long as it's the regular segmented LCD with a relatively thick plastic front it can be edge lit. Some side firing LED strips may be easiest or you can dot around a half dozen or so single color LED's and powering them using the 3V supply. Also make sure your 3V supply is a regulated supply meaning it outputs exactly a nominal 3.0 to 3.3V. https://ledlightsworld.com/products/12v-dc-smd335-300-side-view-flexible-led-strips-60-leds-per-meter
  8. It may be easier to find a 5V power supply and to then use a buck converter to drop it down to 3.0-3.3V for continuous operation. For back lighting that would depend on the display for the unit, most likely it just a segmented LCD like on a calculator so it may not be possible to backlight the best would be in those situations is to edge light the display.
  9. I would recommend to use something like 467MP or 468MP which is just an adhesive glue on a roll or sheet, unlike double sided tape there is no film. You will want to remove all the old adhesive before applying to ensure it sits flat and even. https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8/ https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B06ZYW9PGF/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=468mp&qid=1596634307&sr=8-16
  10. It would be best to replace the adhesive afterwards but definitely use a heat gun on low or hairdryer to warm the glue when removing.
  11. As long as your fluid temps are kept always above your ambient air temperatures there will be no risk of condensation. What you would gain though for adding in a chiller in terms of performance is very marginal however.
  12. Depends on what you are looking to get made but assuming it's compute related as your on this forum check out Protocase they specialize in one offs and custom orders. Just note that a one off part will be quite expensive. -Moved to Modding Section-
  13. So a gauge in the loop? It's doable but you will see little to no pressure build up since the loop is pretty much at equilibrium, one thing you will want to make sure is the gauge is all copper or brass based internally and doesn't have other metals if it comes into contact with the fluid.
  14. A cable tray underneath or mounting the power bars and such under the desk work well. https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/signum-cable-management-horizontal-silver-color-30200253/
  15. Acrylic would be best for it as it's easy to work with and customize, places like Coldzero specialize in this kind of stuff. https://www.coldzero.eu/
  16. You don't want to use abrasive hole saws as it will just melt the plastic, it would be best to have the material backed onto a sheet of sacrificial material like MDF or Plywood and use a regular hole saw to cut through it, for straight cuts you can use a table saw with a finer toothed blade. If you have access to a laser cutter that would of course yield the best result and also give you polished edges straight out of the machine.
  17. If you want ARGB(digital) type lights (5V series) then theses would be ones you would want to source https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Decorative-Lighting-Controller/dp/B07WHT2VKK/ref=pd_di_sccai_6/135-1388621-3408828?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07WHT2VKK&pd_rd_r=eab566e7-c118-4318-9728-eeacaa2ddbb4&pd_rd_w=34ZMa&pd_rd_wg=GPuxe&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=HNJM65RR41F61XKQVCSS&psc=1&refRID=HNJM65RR41F61XKQVCSS There are also standard analog RGB type versions, just make sure they are the 12V series.
  18. +1 for the Ender 3/Pro If you don't mind tinkering and doing modification/upgrades it's a great platform to get started to learn and gain understanding. For kids getting involved and such I would probably recommend the Prusa since it's more plug and play if that is more desirable.
  19. Take a look at the Silverstone SG13, a bit taller but similar mini cube type form factor. https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=536&area=en
  20. Welcome to the forums! You would still have incidental heat from some components radiating outwards from the VRM, and such so you would need to have a way to couple them to a heatpipe or heatsink externally to the case for passive cooling. If you have a dusty environment adding in fan filters and configuring you setup for positive air pressure is the best option.
  21. That looks alright there is an extra line I see going to one of the square openings you will want to remove, one thing to remember is to leave extra tolerance for the cut to ensure your parts will fit in those openings. As for the assembly I would personally use some simple dovetails or joints on the acrylic so they physically lock together and then adding some extra CA glue will help hold it in place.
  22. Looks to be a limited product. https://www.ikea.com/ms/en_JP/ikea-collections/spanst/index.html https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/spaenst-led-light-stick-50403184/ For ambient lighting if you want it to be soft and cast around the room, it is more involved but installing crown molding a little below the height of the ceiling and adding in LED's behind it to cast light along the ceiling works well.
  23. Is it a pastel/opaque fluid that is pretty normal as the nano particles will find small spaces or gaps to settle in, if it's clear fluid those look to be just minor dust particles which as long as it's not building up in the fin to cause a clog isn't a problem.
  24. +1 to the EKWB plugs those are pretty low profile. Just note that if you plan to have silver in your loop you cannot have any nickel plating on fittings or blocks as they are bordlerline dis-similar metals in a loop environment. I personally recommend to use a premixed fluid ideally clear if you want longevity as they have all the needed additives.
  25. If the fans are serving their purpose and not noisy I'd say they will work but having pressure optimized fans to pull air through the front grill will help a little bit. If you have a radiator or heatsink cooler those would see the most benefit.