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Everything posted by W-L

  1. If the fans are serving their purpose and not noisy I'd say they will work but having pressure optimized fans to pull air through the front grill will help a little bit. If you have a radiator or heatsink cooler those would see the most benefit.
  2. The easiest would be to get a drop in 3.5" or 5.25" expansion to get USB 3.0, if a direct replacement from Lian Li is not available. It is difficult but if you want you could take apart that housing to gain access to the USB 2.0 port and buy a separate USB 3.0 panel mount to replace the USB 2.0 section, assuming it is not all on a single PCB.
  3. Try looking locally to see if you have signage of print shops most will be able to do custom print vinyl work long as you provide them the images and the scale you want it printed off at.
  4. What did you have in mind in terms of looks, there are places that can do custom print vinyls but I'm not sure if Vvivid can provide that service. All the different sections have different looks and styles I'd probably recommend the automotive stuff since you get some pretty unique colors and styles of wrap, if you want they even have marble textured wrap in the architectural section.
  5. See if you have a makerspace nearby, most will be willing to provide you some input and help when creating CAD models tailored for 3D printing.
  6. For something like that it's not very viable to 3D print since the part is spanning such a large open space at the top leaving you the need to use a lot of support. This kind of part would be best suited for laser cutting using acrylic panels that you either bolt or design to interlock/snap together, If you want to get it printed I would recommend to split the box down the center so you have two halves that can be printed flat on the bed without the need for support and then join the two halves to make the box. Adding a rabbit or lip so they key together is a good design option.
  7. S340 isn't too hard to wrap since it's mainly all flast surfaces, for wrap itself it depends on what look you are looking to get, 3M is considered to be the best of the best, another good option I've tried before was Vvivid which has lots of unique options. https://vvividshop.ca/
  8. *Edit Button* Reveals all!
  9. They are not comparable in terms of noise to the regular NF-F12 series of fans. Even when dialed down all the way they are what I would consider audible, not dead silent.
  10. The quad tandem will give you an extra 240V breaker so essentially two breakers in the same footprint, however if it's too much in general for the total incoming capacity of that panel then the second option with the garage getting 240V may be best. Also not bad if you have 240V tools like a welder.
  11. That 30 Amp near the bottom left you have since it double wide should be 240V, red and black live lines. I'm definitely no expert at this but you may be able to get away with using a compatible quad tandem 240V breaker giving you two 240V circuits from a single double (2 slot) breaker. You'll need to check with an electrician thought since not all places allow this but tandem style breakers are commonly used for adding extra circuits to an already full panel instead of changing it or adding a sub panel. Edit: That's a beefy UPS, long as you can get 240V into the home or garage that
  12. Hmm and I'm assuming the panel is packed full to the point of no extra expansion slots? Even at a 100amp service you should have split phase 120V entering the home so it should be possible to achieve 240V. Only problem with a full panel would be trying to remove some 120V circuits to gain space for a single 240V.
  13. Depending on the panel you could always use the 240V from a less commonly use appliance like a dryer and transfer between the two when one needs to be used or the other to ensure you do not overload it.
  14. You'd be better ordering the bulk rolls and cutting and wiring them up as your would desire especially if you need a lot to do a custom job.
  15. They have "neon" like led strips that have a built in diffuser, other than that you would need a diffusser track as suggested to install the LEDs into. https://www.amazon.ca/Pearlight-Silicone-Waterproof-Decoration-Signboard/dp/B07R3SK73N/?th=1
  16. Tape is good but if the adhesion of the tape isn't sealed around the edge isn't complete or it fails overtime liquid metal can wick it's way under. I personally recommend to apply a coating, either getting a proper conformal coating for even just using clear acrylic nail polish is acceptable.
  17. Here are some UK retailers for sleeving supplies: https://pexonpcs.co.uk/collections https://www.cable-sleeving.com/custom-cable-sleeving-services
  18. 1.4 to 1.6 seems like the common choices. If I were to choose personally I'd probably recommend the coarser thread myself, since you have less material to displace and with the higher helical angle less turns to put in the screw. If there is the option to have the type with the notched end that also is beneficial in cutting a thread instead of just forcing material out of the way. I've used startech ones before and they are probably the coarsest thread form with T12. https://sgcdn.startech.com/005329/media/sets/12FANSCREW_Manual/12FANSCREW.pdf
  19. Usually threads are done via pitch in relation to inch or threads per mm, however that would make sense if it's based on threads per CM. With 16 threads per CM it would be the same as 1.6 threads per mm and be nice and coarse. Never heard of it being referenced as threads per CM however but seems logically correct in this case. 16 Threads per CM / 10MM in a CM = 1.6 Threads per MM.
  20. Hmm I'm not very familiar with self tapping thread but I'm not sure is there is a strict standard for fan screws since I have seen the pitch of fan screw vary between manufacture's Looking at this manufacture's spec I can see they used a metric value for their fasteners with a 1.4 threads per mm which gives us an approx of 18 threads per inch. https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Mechatronics PDFs/CS-1_Dwg.pdf However on this metric self tapping chart the fastener would fall in as a ST4.8 with a pitch of 1.6 threads per mm. https://amesweb.info/Screws/Sel
  21. It would depend on the thread type if it's a metric machine screw M5 would have a thread pitch of 0.8 thread per mm. Not heard of a T based thread unless it's trapezoidal or is this the self tapping variety?
  22. You can get small heat sinks and use thermal tape to apply over the VRM's similar to a GPU. If they are all on the same level plane a single larger unit can also do the job.Generally most lower end boards omit them and as long as your current setup has some incidental airflow and it isn't getting overly hot >100C it will be acceptable. Here's some examples, some comes with thermal tape:
  23. If it's standing still and needs to push to get going then that header isn't giving enough power to start the fan, you can search for fans with a very low starting voltage and current but if there is noise also when running then that can be due to the control circuity and how it's interacting.
  24. There isn't really an elegant way to strength the frame of the screen unless you want to take it apart, and manufacture a custom part/frame that is stiffer while trying to keep the form factor. Only other way really to stiffen would be to adhere a some thick aluminum plate to the whole top case to stiffen it but that is less than appealing.
  25. Peeping? Beeping? Can you take a short video, is it the fan making noise when running or an alarm noise of some sort?