I Hendrycks I

Ok, thank you so much, that's what I figured

Some graphics cards have 2 8 pin connectors, or 1 6 pin or whatever else. The 8 pin is the top-left connector or if you combine the bottom-left connector's little thingie with the 6 pin at the bottom-left, it makes an 8 pin. So the top-right connector that says Type 3 goes into your power supply and depending on your graphics cards power needs, you connect either the 1 six pin at the bottom left or the 8 pin or use the 8pin, and combine the 6 pin with the little 3 pin guy to make 2 8 pins.
 
Hopefully that makes sense, lmk if you need any more help!

sharing your experience is one thing... openly slandering the name of Asus is another. telling people to never go Asus because you had a poor experience is shameful. and I would agree with @TetraSky, if you had to pay you probably broke something which voided your warranty which is why your RMA experience was so terrible... you didn't quality for some reason (and that reason is almost always something on your side)

thanks I will be searching for 2x 1080p 120hz or 144hz hopefully IPS panel.

Over many years I've gone from a 1680x1050 60Hz TV to a 1080p 120hz monitor to a 1080p 144hz monitor to now having a 1440p 165hz G-Sync monitor, I also sometimes play on a 4K TV that's next to my PC desk. The jump from 60hz to 120hz (or 144hz as it seems to be more common now) is definitely the most significant change over going for a 1440p monitor. You can pump out a ton of frames and it's oh so buttery smooth on the gear you already have. 1440p is great but with the premium price of a 'good' 1440p screen (a fast and good picture) you also then need a better GPU on top of that or else you're stuck at lower framerates with lower graphical settings just to keep up to the framerate you're used to on your current setup.
 
I'd honestly recommend going for the best monitor in your budget that's 1080p at 120hz or 144hz with the nicest picture. I'd strongly recommend a BenQ as imo they make the best looking and best performing monitors and are a very reputable brand.
 
Good luck on your search!

Hey, in my old PC I had an i7 (it died) and I use to be able to play any game on one screen while watching a movie or Youtube on the other. After getting a whole new rig I got an i5-6600K and now if I try watching a movie, Youtube, etc, the video will sometimes completely freeze in certain instances like processing the next turn in Civilization V. Is this because an i5 is worse at multitasking or do you think something else is going on? It's really annoying because I let the person at the store influence me into 'saving' $200 by going for the 6600K vs the 6700K but now one of the main things I like to do on my computer is hindered quite a bit.
 
Thanks in advance!

I ended up grabbing the Acer Predator XB271HU. It's pretty damn amazing and I have a pre-order down at my local NCIX for an ASUS Strix GTX 1080. Honestly so stoked aha

Congrats, one of my friends just got the same monitor and it is a beast.

I myself wouldn't be bothered spending a little bit more money on a seat that I would be spending most of my free time, if I'm going to spend 8-10 hours at that seat, I'd rather something comfortable and expensive than a cheap chair that ends up not being worth it in the end. Not saying that I would go straight for a DX-Racer (a tad much). But a chair that helps me with my posture for when I sit there every day is something I would spend a little extra $ on.

Isn't actuation distance completely unrelated to how hard it is to press down on the key? Unless you rest your hands on the keyboard while slightly pushing down on the keys.

you can tell by just looking at the blades

I'd recommend grabbing a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. It's like $45 Canadian and is one of the best budget air coolers.

We have Chromecasts in the house because I saw it as a way easier/cost effective way of streaming a few years ago. The problem is when you want to stream something that isn't Cast-able. My dad for instance watches professional cycling and has to have a VPN to say he's in the UK, then subscribe to the professional cycling company's streaming and then play through their media player that's still using flash player. There's no easy way to do that on a Chromecast as best case scenario you'd need to keep a laptop close by and do the Beta casting of the entire screen (too complicated for my Dad to have to do). $200-300 tops for an elegant computer under the TV, easily accessible with a wireless mouse and keyboard just gives way more options.
Thanks for the help!

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/BHqNJx
 
EDIT- get rid of that case and use a cooler master elite 110

SATA/NVME are not the same thing.  SATA vs PCIE and AHCI vs NVME is the correct comparison. SATA and PCIE are transfer standards while AHCI and NVME are storage protocols.

dont you have a free DVI connector? you can get passive adapters DVI<->HDMI since they carry the same signal.
 
as for mixing GPU brands, i think this says it all: (sorry, no matrox, they're not worth the money)

I'm sorry but as far as I know on desktop you have to chose to use either the discrete GPU or the iGPU on the CPU, you cannot use both.

look above you, friend.

Hmm, I did not know that was possible, I don't see any reason why splitting the signal should pose any problems, as long as the splitter is decent.

as far as i've experienced, theres no difference in performance, as long as you have your main panel hooked up to the GPU you want to do the math on, as well as the monitors you game on. (havent done much testing on this last one, it seems to be a bit game dependant)

Hey, I've got an ASUS Z170-A motherboard, an i5-6600K and the Cooler Master 212 Evo cooler and was looking to overclock. I've overclocked way back with my 2600K but haven't since and was looking for some advice. I looked at a lot of guides online and saw that a 4.6GHz overclock is pretty reasonable and that most chips could just set the multiplier to 46 and be good to go but my computer became insanely unstable. I kept getting various BSOD no matter what I did and as soon as I removed the overclock everything was fine again (I've never personally seen that happen).
 
I saw that ASUS recommends to turn off SVID when overclocking so I was wondering if their are any specific settings that my motherboard has that I should definitely disable when overclocking? Guides are great but they never go too in-depth on what settings to turn off or definitely keep on. I don't really want to get a super high overclock, just high enough to get some more out of the chip. Thanks!

Personally an SSD is the first thing I tell anyone to get if they don't already have one. Even just getting a 250GB SSD to put the OS and main programs on it drastically improves everything about your computer and makes everything snappy. OS Boot time, installing programs, moving files, etc. Just a really great upgrade for cheap as a Samsung EVO 250GB is only like $110 Canadian $ atm.

Man I've seen you post on a few threads and you're always super ignorant. Why post a lot if you're not helpful and just judge people and make them feel shitty? People like you are why I don't like posting on forums in the first place. I bought the 250 Ohms version years ago because I figured why not go for higher Ohms if they cost the same? I don't know what the gain means for the soundcard specifically because it tells me in the brackets (made for 60-300ohms) so with logic I assumed that meant that if my headphones are 250 ohms that I should be in that range. 

I just double click the video anywhere to fullscreen and to get out of it. 

I just double click the video anywhere to fullscreen and to get out of it.