Special Agent 星雨

I could but then it would need to be run through two living rooms and a kitchen, which I already know will not be supported by the rest of the family.
 
I have resorted to using Wi-Fi to stream, and use my powerline adapter for the rest. It has been working well so far.

I only have one pair of sockets in my room.

Things I have tried:
another room in the house where the adapter was plugged straight into the wall (same effect, stops working once high upload bandwidth is being used)
using the adapters in a newly built (<2 years) apartment, no issues.
 
I think its safe to conclude that the electrical wiring in my house is the culprit, which is quite a shame. Guess I'll have to use Wi-Fi when I need to stream.

Edit - Cooler Master? I'm high as a kite, I meant Be Quiet.

Thought I'd just post an update - Cooler Master Be Quiet did confirm via e-mail that you do indeed need a decoupler (this rubber thing that sits between the fan and the heatsink, the front 120mm has one by default, but there are no extras included in the box) to allow a silent wings fan to be able to work in the rear orientation, odd, considering they include metal brackets but not this decoupler?
 
With that said, a free one is being sent out so I cannot really complain, but if others encounter the same issue just have a chat with Be Quiet customer support!

I mean. First thing first, I'd remove the overclock you've got on everything, you say 'Stable' but it don't look very stable to me

Use crystaldiskinfo and check drives SMART status.

Well one thing I've found from Computers + Coding is that it never follows through with logic despite being completely logic-dependent. If you don't want to try troubleshooting this option, don't. I ain't here to force you, I was giving you a suggestion for what you could try to get a stable system right now. Unfortunately that was my ideas exploited so I'm going to leave this to other valuable members of this community  

It could run hotter and get unstable that way though.

Something tells me that no matter what speed you are running your system at whether it is 3.0, 4.0, or 5.0Ghz that if it doesn't run right or if the system fails to boot, or crashes, or whatever, then it isn't stable.  Remove the overclock and see what happens.  If the system does not fail after removing the overclock, then obviously the OC has something to do with the instability.

I will re-test the stability of my CPU OC and RAM XMP profile, my RAM is rated at 3000Mhz C15 so I'd be pretty stumped if it can't actually run at 3000Mhz. I have made sure I have installed all available drivers from Asus' website.
 
I have downclocked my CPU to 4.9Ghz @ 1.344v and it hasn't BSODed/crashed in 2 hours now, fingers crossed.

Ha, in Australia the cheapest gaming monitor (1080p 144hz TN no FreeSync/G-Sync) costs $379, cheapest 1440p gaming monitor goes for $500+ RIP.

Thanks everyone, just ordered a Dark Rock Pro 3!
 

Thanks everyone, just ordered a Dark Rock Pro 3!
 

Sounds like you hit the bottom end on the lottery, bad luck
 
I'm trying to find a video i saw on youtube from some reviewers that where invited to AMD in collaboration with ROG or MSI i think (had something to do with dragon force team). Some AMD techs gave some info on different voltage settings to help get stable overclocks. When i find it i'll link it to you.

If I remember correctly they trident series one of the few kits that worked quite well with Ryzen. I know gskills in general was the best at launch when it came to getting rated speeds but I think had to die with them using alot of Samsung memory.

Forgot to add in the post that the price is in Australian Dollars.

PCpartpicker.com is what I usually use to price check. 

that's a really good value, make sure its functional, make sure its not a scam. 

Thanks everyone for your responses! I've decided that I will wait until Intel's Cannonlake CPUs and buy an overclockable (presumed name) i7 8700k.

Ryzen will be better once games are more consistently released with better multi-threading support / DX12. It is a completely new architecture and a better future proofing option then a 7700, but if you demand the best performance RIGHT NAO, then go with a 7700.
 
What games are you having an issue with? I have an i7 3770 and all I can say is good RAM does help. If you have poor timings @ 1600mhz that could be a problem. I have 2400mhz RAM with decent timings and it seems to improve minimum frame issues if you have them.
 
Overall I'd say keep what you have until Intel puts out a repsonse to RyZen, or AMD releases the 6c / 12t RyZen as that should be cheaper and a more realistic gaming CPU.

True, perhaps after investing in a K CPU I'll be checking out my BIOS instead of linustechtips.com if I need more performance.

It certainly has, I bought my i7 3770 on release and it hasn't skipped a beat, but after my GPU upgrade recently it's been hitting the 100% usage mark a lot more than I would like.
The effort required for this upgrade concerns me more since money isn't an issue, if after all these upgrades and I'm only seeing an extra 10 FPS .... it'll be disappointing to say the least. I watched some Ryzen videos already and it seems like the 8C/16T Ryzen 7s are not ideal or a "value" buy for gaming which makes me want to go with an i7 7700
 
Not frame drops, just frame rates in general, before my GPU upgrade my CPU usage never even went close to 100%, but now its hitting that mark quite often, most noticeably in Rainbow Six: Siege which is the game I play most often. I sometimes get 100fps with CPU usage @ 100%. I also think your point is valid, buying Kabylake right now wouldn't be logical because Intel's next generation (response) to AMD Ryzen would most likely be more value for the money.
 
Makes sense, I've always seen people get triggered when someone buys a K CPU from intel and doesn't overclock, I will consider a K chip even though I won't overclock.

Please for the love of god get a better psu 

Oh my god .. I didn't see the "Product dimensions" part in the specifications table >< Sorry everyone, problem solved.