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About rhyseyness

  • Title
    My logic is undeniable
  • Birthday Feb 15, 1994

Profile Information

  • Location
    Maidstone, UK
  • Gender
  • Occupation
    Electronic engineer


  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 5800X
  • Motherboard
    Aorus X570 Elite
  • RAM
    32GB 3600MHz Corsair Vengeance RGB
  • GPU
    MSI RTX2070 Super Gaming X Trio
  • Case
    BeQuiet! Pure Base 500 Windowed
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 970 Evo
  • PSU
    Corsair TX850
  • Display(s)
    Dell S2417DG and U2515H
  • Cooling
    Dark Rock Pro 3
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 Mk.2 RGB
  • Mouse
    Logitech G Pro Wired
  • Sound
    Yamaha A-S501, Custom Seas Idunn, Sennhieser HD6XX
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,926 profile views
  1. They're aluminium caps which have a lifetime- Usually they last about 10 years before needing to be replaced. If you're not electronics-y, I'd recommend you buy a new PSU rather than replacing them.
  2. So I recently got an MSI Gaming trio X 2070 super. Starting doing some overclocking the last couple of days, and I've found that no matter what I do in afterburner, the card won't go over 65°C. It happily sits at 2100MHz until the temps hit 65 (which happens quick), and it then downclocks. The thermal limit in afterburner is set to 88°C, and the fans never even get to 30%. Furmark benchmarks run fine, but obviously with lower scores than expected because the card downclocks. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! EDIT: Nvm forgot to
  3. This thread is what makes this forum so great. Nice work @JayBee805! Enjoy your shiney new PC
  4. If this is a measurement out of circuit, looks like the resistor isn't dead. Dead resistors will read open circuit (>2Mohm). Massively unusual for them to fail and read anything other than short or open. As @Unimportant quite rightly says, you could be measuring something in parallel. This is not true. You'd definitely need to replace a 0 ohm resistor because it forms a connection in your circuit, just like a wire link. If a wire link snapped in half, you wouldn't say "you shouldn't need to replace it," haha.
  5. So after a few setbacks, it's finally done and mounted on the wall! I'm really pleased with how it's turned out. Had to change all my data wires over to something less stiff, but now they don't pull the pads off the strip. Video of the finished product mounted on the wall here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1PmAuumD8c7UsFJf9 Some photos too:
  6. Put a good few hours into the project last night. Didn't have time to post an update here, but planning on having it finished this evening. Last night, I kind of restarted the LED part of the build, as when I tried to untangle the mess of LED strips, the data lines pulled their pads off the strip. I bought some new LEDs and the diffusers. Since the diffusers were a metre long, I made the LED strips for each band a metre long too. This means I've now got 420 LEDs (60 per band) rather than 300. The code will need a bit of adjustment to work with this.
  7. All fair comments. Cheap was the name of the game here. All your suggestions make a lot of sense. The purchasing decisions were based on what I already had laying around and how inexpensive stuff was. The 0.1uF caps were what I had around from an old project (they were used for decoupling power supplies on that). I don't have a spare wall wart adapter or barrel jack laying around, but I do have a spare mains plug and twin and earth cable, hence the straight 240V->5V PSU (which was also only £12). 15W should be plenty for the application. All my stuff was
  8. So after a little fault finding and A LOT more soldering, the electronics are up and running. All that's left now is the getting it in a box and making everything neat and tidy. The LEDs are all soldered to the power supply, each other, and broken out into 7 strips. I've ordered diffusers because the strips are super delicate now they're not in the plastic. I've tested them and they're look great. It's super messy right now. Needs untangling real bad, then can start getting bits into the box
  9. Update from yesterday afternoon's work. Started putting the system together. I've soldered the MSGEQ7 board together, and wired this into the power supply and arduino. The power supply board has had the mains power soldered on. I'll let the photos do the talking Work still remaining: Machining of the box to allow connectors and switch to be mounted. Hole to get the LED wiring out too. Power supply connections to the arduino Fitting switch to the power supply input (I'l have to de-solder what I've done already to do this. I forgot it!)
  10. Haha, thanks! The only delay should be the time for the main loop to run. I did experiment adding a delay on every main loop (see commented out delay of 50ms in "void loop"), but it just made the LEDs look weird with the audio. The only delays in there currently are the 40 microsecond ones requried for correct operation of the MSGEQ7. Everything else should be as fast as the arduino can do it! The delay of the MSGEQ7 is close to 0, but the loop certainly takes a little while to run. Initially I had the "for" loop in main go 1000 times between brightness settin
  11. I updated the code and hardware a bit today to include an ambient brightness adjustment. This uses a potential divider network with an LDR and a fixed resistor. It was a little bit jarring at first so I put some averaging in, which seems to have helped Now the LEDs brightness changes depending on the ambient brightness. Updated code below: My last few hardware bits (including a shiny new soldering iron) arrive tomorrow, so I can get on with the proper build. That's all for now. Next update is most likely to be Friday when I've go
  12. Yea, I've disputed it, so hopefully be back up in a couple of days. I'm going to see how it looks once it's mounted and decide if it needs any diffusion or not. Right now it is pretty eye watering, so most likely will add a diffuser!
  13. Welcome all to my graphic equaliser build log. A graphic equaliser is simply a graphic display of various frequency bands of audio. My plan is to build one from LEDs (specifically an LED strip), and mount it on my wall. I've actually done a fair bit of work on this so far, but I wanted to make sure i was going to actually finish the project before I posted about it. My plan is eventually to have this mounted on my wall. The basic operation is around the MSGEQ7 graphic equaliser chip and an Arduino Uno (Atmega 328p) microcontroller. The MSGEQ7
  14. Haha! Higher SR =/= better. I know plenty of boosted master players who would be silver/gold if they solo queued!
  15. That's not too bad. It was over $1000 at launch! I reckon that's what I'd do. I play on both, but EU way more than US. I'm only high gold/low plat and a main tank/hitscan main.