Pachuca

Yea it basic setup all you need to do is slot the card in in your 16 x PCI-E slot run the usb cable for the risers run the power from your PSU to your risers cards to provide power to the cards and to your  graphics cards  make sure that all correct.  

The fluid usually can last between 6-12 months and depending on the situation if you see build up the loop may require a tear down for cleaning and flushing. For tubing if you notice it becoming stiff or discoloring it's best to change it during when you do a fluid change at the same time, usually I don't run soft tube for more than a single maintenance cycle. 
 
Fittings don't need replacing but orings and seals are the most important if there are any that are stiff or not as plyable they should be replaced. 

Not sure how long anything lasts. I know my rigs took over a liter each. So you if you're around 800/900ml of water then dump the whole ek thing in, make room for it if you need to. This is why I used premixed as I don't know how much I need and I don't wonna mix two bottles unless I wanted pastel. 

@Pachuca, Wow you really shredded those stop plugs....Honestly I would just use those plastic ones since they are fit for purpose. However if you can something else just make sure that the outer rim is slim enough to actually go into the recess and seal via the O-ring. Otherwise the same leak would happen.
 
I think EKs screw filtting stop plugs work. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4

I just wanted to mention the extensions as they weren't something that I really saw "the purpose of" until I had my rig built and running... then tried to put a 3.5" in my hot swap bay.  My case requires a 25mm spacer off the rad and a 90 degree mounted to that in order to clear the fans on the backside of the rad, and then immediately turn up away from the hotswap bay. I may end up moving my reservoir/pump combo to the back, in which case I can forgo the extension and just run the tubing under the fan... There are always options!
 
The other handy scenario I found for extensions was for making a drain from the rad. I just bored a hole in the bottom of my case and put in a little ~30mm extension with a plug. It's nice to have the extension extend past the bottom of the case so you have something to hold while you unscrew the plug, but how far it can extend will depend on the topography of the bottom of your case. 
 
You can get away with a lot of "guess and check" with soft tubing, but if there are critical aspects of case functionality that you don't want to sacrifice for the sake of water cooling, very carefully consider your component placement, and as well how you intend for water to get from one component to the next. I mean, it's pretty flexible, but if you ask it to do back flips things get... pretty kinky.

Since you'e working in a fairly spacious case I honestly think you'l be fine without any, but doesn' hurt to have some I guess.
 
For reference, my Ncase m1 build required about 3 small extenders to match the height of fittings.

 
But neither the 900D build nor the Define C build used any extenders. although the Define C build did use a tonne of dual45s to snake out of the basement for example. mind you this is all with hardline so is somewhat more plan worthy than soft tubing.
 

 

 

You only need extenders for certain reasons. As in you need to push the fitting further out incase youre using a 90 degree fitting over a fan on a radiator. There are ways around that and they aren't exactly needed in any way.
 

"Extenders", I guess is the correct word.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/static-extender
 
 
As for the swivels, yeah, totally more risk of leaking. The swivel joint is a rubber o-ring sandwiched between two metal flanges... That's it... :\

Don't buy cheap ones, and do your leak testing. Maybe order an extra one or two, just in case? I avoid rotating the swivel joint as much as possible to minimize the wear I put on the o-ring before install. It might be more paranoia than anything but I can't really afford to replace my rig on a whim.  
 
My current build I managed to do entirely with Monsoon straight compression fittings, so I'm pretty comfortable moving it around. I would be less so with swivel fittings, but with that being said, I have plans to re-route my tubing, which will definitely involve swivel-angled fittings. Right now my pump/res/head is right in front of all but my uppermost PCI slots, so... Yeah... I'm dumb.  Hasn't been a problem until recently. Also, too swoopy and that colour.. Gross. Time for new tubing... Not to mention both of the hot swap bays at the bottom are MIA. It needs work, I'm aware.
 
Moral of the story - here are some things I screwed up - don't replicate.  
 
 

Heyo, 
 
I can't tell from from your parts list, but I would advocate for the swivel type angled fittings. They're easier to secure and line up. 
 
Spacers. 25-30mm are handy for coming off a rad, clearing a fan, and turning 90degrees. Having to put in a second order for a 3 dollar part and being charged 20 for shipping sucks. Been there. Done that. Learn from my stupid.

You can get a "kill coil" at Michaels crafts. Just buy some 99.99% silver "bezel wire". It's made for setting cabs (flat backed stones) but does the job just the same. Kill coil + distilled water works nice, but your machine is toast it it leaks; the silver will oxidize into the water over time, adding charged particles to the water (but I dare say that's true regardless of what's running in your loop).  Avoid mixing metals, like Naughty said. If you have done so, use a corrosion inhibitor; it'll reduce re-dox in your loop.
 
Have you drawn this all out yet? Where to fill, where to drain, where to mount, etc? I'd suggest this just because this stuff isn't easy to find at your corner convenience store; if you don't have everything you need at the time of the build, your PC is out of commission until your subsequent order arrives. Ain't no one got time for that; there're games to play and videos to render!
 
GL;HF!
 
PS- Don't pay for a PSU-on jumper. Just keep a paper clip in your wallet so you can show your friends your "most important tool for water cooling." Also handy for removing Apple SIM cards.
 
Check a schematic for your PSU, but on the 24 pin, there should be a line for "PSU-on" (It's green on mine) which you need to jump to a black wire (ground). If you do that and hit the switch on the PSU, you can run your pump without putting charge into any of your hardware, ie- less chance of a short if something leaks during your MINIMUM 24 HOUR LEAK TESTING with jiggling and tube tapping. If it's gonna leak, you might as well find out when everything is laden with paper towel. 

It's traceable to exchanges, however, there is no way to do a charge back like a CC could do.

I am not negating that it can be profitable. There are just much more sensible ways of spending money

EVGA does also offer 10 years(at least on mine they did) but they are most of the time more expensive  
 
if you are concerned about powerdraw i have 2x 1070 + 2x 470 8gb and they draw 600w from the wall with 4790k, 10 fans, 2 hdd, 1 ssd, 2m.2 ssd, 2 pumps mouse and keyboard (without monitors) when mining. Soooooooo, 1200w for 4 1070 is an overkill 800 would be sufficient as long as you OC them + reduce powerdraw + optimize for mining.

well any software that is used for making money, generally costs money. nothing is free in the money-making world lol
 
and usually what isn't  free you'll spend a lot of time on. time is money...

so you want to like split a 8x slot into 8 1x slots?
 
so something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Mining-PCI-Express-Extender-Adapter-Machine/dp/B075K7GQDF

Yeah the Industrial fans aren't exactly quiet you might want to consider changing them to the NF-F12 or quieter fans of that sort, but for sure even with overclocking a single 420mm rad would suffice so two would give lots and lots of overhead for silent cooling under load. 

The radiator is going to make the water closer to ambient temp, taking heat away from the water. Many people disagree about this but the ot]Ryder you put water cooling components in DOES NOT matter. Make sure you know this. When the CPU and GPU make more heat the water temp is going to be increasing until the heat output is the same as the cooling efficiency. So even though it goes CPU-GPU they will be almost the same temp.

100% right

tested on 17.10 only.   I would assume you would have less GCC issues with the older OS but overall should not be a problem. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vG9YQ6C4OSI1lCll2MS9FsSDpOYqaDFi/view?usp=sharing

I agree. Most pc's don't have built-in wifi. Make sure you don't get a cheap card too or it will limit the speed of your connection. It's a bit tricky with wifi, but here's a decent card I found a while ago and it was cheap too. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704129 

I suggest doing some research, watch some videos. you can start out with BitsBeTrippin i'm sure in a couple of his videos he talks about coding restarts in.

Just a heads up, an all aluminum set (EK Fluid Gaming) will limit your options for upgrades in the future. Mixing aluminum and nickel/copper parts will cause galvanic corrosion.
 
Also, since you are in the US, you can buy from Performance PCS so you can save on shipping.

tried it, no difference. 

To me it makes no sense to have a method read a file for data in this case. A separate function should be just fine and is more general.
Here's something I might write:
#include <iostream> #include <stdexcept> #include <fstream> #include <vector> using namespace std; struct Row { double x; double y; double z; }; vector<Row> read_data(const string &path) { vector<Row> rows; ifstream in(path, ios_base::in); if(!in.is_open()) { throw runtime_error("Could not open"); } while(!in.eof()) { Row row; in >> row.x; in >> row.y; in >> row.z; rows.push_back(row); } return rows; } int main() { try { auto data = read_data("data.txt"); for(auto& row : data) { cout << row.x << ", " << row.y << ", " << row.z << "\n"; } } catch(runtime_error &e) { cout << e.what() << "\n"; } return 0; }  

The problem is that you're trying to assign the array
{{arrayA[i]},{arrayB[i]},{arrayC[i]}} to a single element of the array (specifically [12][3], which is also out of the bounds of the array). If you get rid of the [12][3] and just assign it to retArray, it still won't work though, because you're now just trying to assign an array with dimensions [3][1] to an array of dimensions [12][3] (and I also don't think you can use array literals like that in C++ though I might be wrong on that).
I don't quite understand why you have arrayA, arrayB and arrayC - they are just used for temporary storage. If they aren't used for anything else, you can make the code much simpler by replacing the body of your loop with
inFile >> retArray[i][0]; inFile >> retArray[i][1]; inFile >> retArray[i][2]; i++; I'm not 100% sure that this will read the columns correctly though - I haven't used ifstream for a long time.
Make sure that your file isn't more than 12 lines long, otherwise your code won't work (because it will go out of the bounds of the array).