EdInk

Sorry, on my iPhone, not an ideal device for extensive browsing lol

I swapped my 200mm fan with 2x 140 fans and that moved more air than a single 200mm in my Enthoo Luxe. 
 

Crimson doesn't change the BIOS on the card...crimson's just a driver so reverting to a previous driver won't mess up anything

Try reverting to 15.7 https://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2522/amd-catalyst-15-7-1-win-10-64-bit/mirrors

Run DDU first to remove the current driver.http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
 
The latest being 15.7.4.1

True or not this has nothing to do with that, he said it used to be in the 70s and it is not in the 90s on the core. Maybe read the post through next time.
 
@xmitakos the tim must have dried up or maybe it wasn't well applied in the first place and after a bit of usage the cooler started to make poor contact with the gpu. This is an issue that is best solved with an rma, if it's still within warranty just have asus send you a new card. If you're outside warranty or can't send it back for some reason, you can disassemble the cooler and reapply thermal paste yourself, there are guides on youtube to do that.

Display Driver Unintaller - I included a link for that in a prev message. But here is it again  http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
 
if it resolves your issue great if not follow what @Sauron said

Yes, and no. A better way to put it is performance=cost so you then have 0=cost-performance. So zero performance - zero cost = zero

I have a 21:9 panel, coming from a 16:9 panel.
It's a quick adjustment, because it's almost like having two monitors next to each other with no bezel.
Games look great with a few tweaks (I use the flawless widescreen app), and productivity is great, as windows lets you run two windows next to each other seamlessly.

There are several temps sensors located on the motherboard so that might be one which isn't been used and reports a very high/very low reading..if its a reasonable value in UEFI then I'd stick with that.
 
See attachment, I've got one that shows 125 deg C...it's most likely a sensor not used.
 

Much better rig for your money - can run GTA V pretty well:
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor  (£144.99 @ Ebuyer) 
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  (£34.49 @ Ebuyer) 
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  (£27.68 @ Amazon UK) 
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£40.82 @ Amazon UK) 
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 380 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card  (£154.99 @ Novatech) 
Case: Fractal Design Core 1100 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  (£28.49 @ Novatech) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  (£59.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)  (£15.00 @ MicrosoftSoftwareSwap) 
Total: £506.45
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 21:44 GMT+0000

I would safe Money and upgrade to Gsync with a new NVidia GPU later. Both are the superiour Solution.
 

It's preferable to use a GPU with a blower style fan in small cases that way hot air is blown out the back of the case.  In your case the axial fans are throwing the hot air inside the case with inadeaquate exhaust.
 
Get a better case or change your GPU for blower-style cooler or install more exhaust fans. 

with 2x 360 rads already more rad area won't give you anymore significant performance (althought it will take longer for water temp to reach a steady state) but it will mean you can run your fans at a lower speed and still achieve desired temps making it operate quietly even on load. 
 
The 60mm will be the preferable size as long as it leaves room for future upgrade. I'm thinking of getting the mayhem havoc 240 63m rad just need to plan re-configuring. 

Pick your poison style There are ton of software for that. Most common ones being HWmonitor, OpenHardwareMonitor and MSI Afterburner.
 
And you can't run fans faster than 12V/max rated rpm. PC hardware just doesn't do that without modding. And even then it isn't recommended and will damage fans.

You are at the point where you start needing to think about pump flow. Those GTS 360 radiators are amazing for their thickness, but they are also some of the most water-flow restrictive radiators out there. Here are some basic numbers for your loop...
 
Pressure drop at 1GPM flow...
HWLabs GTS 360: 0.91psi each
Raystorm Pro: 0.67 psi
GPU block (ESTIMATE FROM HERE): 0.75psi
Fan controller block (no idea...just guessing): 0.5psi
 
Total estimated pressure drop at 1GPM*(blocks + rads only):  3.74 psi
* There will also be addition pressure drop from each fitting and length of tubing, so the total drop is probably closer to 4psi.
 
Here is a chart showing the MCP655's flow and head pressure at various PWM percentages. Your system now already requires you to run nearly 100% PWM to achieve 1 GPM flow. Personally I would not install another radiator (esp. another HWLabs GTS) into your loop. If you are using your fans at 1300rpm or above, then changing out one of your GTS 360's to a thicker radiator like the Nemesis GTX 360 or the EK XE360 would be a better move for your machine than adding another radiator.
 
 

I was in the exact same scenario as you, with the exact same monitors too. I took the plunge for 21:9 on the LG29UM and never regretted it. It's a few less pixels than the 1440p 16:9 monitors, but I love the realestate, games that support ultrawide look amazing and it makes photoshop a dream for me.

I mustav been thinking about corsair at the time....hahaha...EKWB should be the people to call.

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vc239h
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/lg-monitor-25um57p
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vx239h

A Z-series mobo is optimised for OC'ing..have the latest bios update.

A Z-series mobo is optimised for OC'ing..have the latest bios update.

The choice really is depending on your future upgrade choices. 
 
If you go with the splitter, It is best to get the 4 pin splitter over the 3 pin as it would be able to accommodate 3 & 4 pin fans and the 3 pin splitter will only work with 3 pin fans. 
 
The fan hub might be best as it can accommodate more fans than the splitter and is 4 pin.

After a little research, it appears copper ( used for the transformer windings) has a lower resistance at lower temperatures so less power is required to overcome the resistance.

Give InputMapper a try. Personally I find it much better than DS4 and been able to get some games working nicer than what you can with the config options DS4 has, plus I also found it more reliable. Also it is basically the same software, made by the same group of people.
 
https://inputmapper.com/
 
Edit: From memory the problematic software was PS1 & PS2 emulators so kind of a fringe case for most people.

I have one of these and cant say ive had any blutooth related crashes 

https://www.asus.com/Networking/USBBT211_Mini_Bluetooth_Dongle/

that being said it might be something about your particular mobo that does not like bluetooth/that particular dongle so its hard to say what might fix it.