Ribozyme

Pok3r as mentioned already, ducky mini, KBP V60. 60% will be more comfy to carry around everyday.

Its almost sad that people aren't willing to accept that the Titan X is one hell of a gaming card that will probably make 4K its slave, all off a twin slot, single GPU solution that will play very nicely with mini-ITX builds. 

One of the reasons I went mechanical was because they are of much higher quality and more durable than your average non-mechanical keyboard. The keys and switch mechanic will last a lot longer plus you can change the keys if they wear out. Also you can remove the keys for easy cleaning crums and stuff that fell beneath the keys. Last plus for me is the aesthetics. There are many types to choose from like 60%, TKL or full size each with different looks from understated class to something more remarkable. Last for me was the switch feel as I never had a problem with laptop keyboards. When you do switch from a non mechanical to mechanical I felt the height of the keys causing a lot of errors because my fingers got stuck on a key dragging them from key to key. This changed when I bought keycaps type cherry which are lower than standard keycaps type OEM.
 
When I spent 1500 euro on my first rig I wanted input devices that match the qualities of the components inside my computer. These are the things that you touch everyday so they better are of top quality. Same with monitor. Do not skimp on keyboard, mouse or monitor IMHO. They will last you a lot longer too than your average computer normally.

What hand size? What grip? What preferred sensor?
If you liked the G400 maybe look into the Zowie EC1?

Yes I have looked into the m45 seems quite ok, kind of smallish and no nonsense look. Do you own it?
 
Fingertip grip as said in my first post. 
 
First sentence is I don't like the deathadder. Thanks for reading.
 
Not really interested in razer as I was not pleased with the deathadder.
 
Wow really helpful thanks Do you own the mouse? Do you have small hands, how does it sit in your hand?

Hello guys and girls,
 
a few months ago I got myself the steelseries rival after not being satisfied with the deathadder 3.5G(too light and flimsy,LOD too high, unsatisfying clicks). Now the moment I got it I felt it was a bit too big so I tried to return it but the scums wouldn't let me unless it was broken(I was tempted for a moment...).
I endured it for 3 months now, did great actually: good clicks, no nonsense design, good grip and texture. However: lately I have been getting a horrible pain in the wrist of my mouse hand. Using the extensor muscles of my hand and wrist is very uncomfortable and borderline painful while using the mouse and now typing. So I am guessing this is due to the height of the mouse which brings my wrist in extenstion too much. 
 
So I definitely need a new mouse and I want it to be lower profile than the steelseries rival. I was thinking about logitech G402 or G502. I am leaning towards the latter because of the better sensor as I like FPS(borderlands, battlefield, bioshock, portal, metro far, cry,...) and towards the former for the simpler look. I am also considering the corsair sabre optical because it looks really low so it won't irritate my wrist and also pretty stylish looking aside from the corsair logo.
 
Other info about me: I think I use a fingertip grip and I have fairly small hands, around 17 cm from base of hand to top of middlefinger.
 
I am mainly looking for responses that are based on experience with the mice in question or people that did their homework properly or just helpful comments are welcome too

Thanks for reading and trying helping me out in advance.

Depends on the relationship. Not everyone is monogamous ;-)I'm a whore

@LinusTech is viewing this ATM. Wonder what he thinks, even though he has a wife already.

No they are the element which is used to build beautiful displays. They mine the pixels far away on alien planets and then ship it to earth. This always has been tricky because of the routes to these planets are very dangerous, much cargo gets lost in black holes or stolen by alien civilizations. 
But recently we have had a breakthrough in space science which allows ships to get more pixels to earth. That's why we are seeing more and more high resolution displays.There are also training programs being secretely developed by the government to recruit more pilots for these missions. These programs are Elite Dangerous and Star Citizen. This will bring a lot of new pilots to embark on these dangerous missions. So we can expect to see even higher resolutions in the near future.

Anything cooler master lol

I assume you are a younger member, simply because you don't seem to be up to date on your Computing History. I apologize ahead of time if that assumption is incorrect.
 
However, the "OS greatness cycle", as you so eloquently put it... was never in effect.
 
Windows XP sucked on release. It fucking sucked hard. It was one of the worst OS's ever put out by Microsoft on release. It was incredibly slow, bogged down, had horrible driver support, and most importantly, it was a buggy piece of shit.
 
People have this weird "rose tinted glasses" thing with Windows XP - especially here on LTT. XP wasn't awesome until SP2 really, and it wasn't until SP3 that really solidified it as one of Microsoft's best OS's.
 
So can we please stop this false stereotype of "Good OS, Bad OS, Good OS, Bad OS"? It's simply not true.
 
Take Vista for example. (Almost) Everyone hates Vista. However, Vista SP2 is actually a great OS. All the major bugs were squashed, and it was made very stable by then. But people still trash-talk it to this day, despite the fact that it essentially mirrored Windows XP in terms of usability and bugs.
 
Weird, isn't it?

$300 gtx 560 from futureshop about a year ago

isnt there a topic like this already? anyways non modular psu <_>

As long as you're satisfied with it that's all that matters, mate.

Maaattee, SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much nicer than the membrane. soo smooth and not mushy and you can push them half way and it registers the keystroke, awesome 10/10

Most of the reviews I have seen on the KUL ES-87 have been positive.  There are some people saying that some of the stabilizers "squeak",  but it looks like it's a hit or miss thing.
 
Eventually I will get one to try out myself.
 
As for mx-clears.  That will be up to your personal preference. I personally think stock clears are a little too heavy, and mod mine with 62g Korean springs.  However if I had to choose between stock mx-browns and stock mx-clears, I would choose clears any day of the week.
 
Here is a review.  http://www.hardcoreware.net/kul-es-87-review/             If you haven't already you can google it to find more.

I probably feel like I overpaid because I am not fully satisfied. Thank you kindly for your input. I have recently been eyeballing the ducky premier series with their PBT caps with blue/grey colors. Is the feel of PBT caps that much better? The caps on the Ducky shine 3 feel kind of flimsy so maybe it is worth a try? I like the corsair series except for the metal bar at the top which is higher than the rest of the keyboard. I will try reds next I think. 

Like the bigger battery and Ram, but 5.2 inches is a bit large for me. Personally 4.7 inches is just right for me. 5.0 on M8 is pushing it. I like one handed reaching. 

I like it all except for the Snapdragon 805; I would prefer the 810 or a Tegra k1. 

This model is only available in certain regions though, just a heads up.

Update #2: Ready, steady, bake!

So with enough parts in my possession and the PCBs turning up I was able to get started on putting together the I/O and control boards.

A blank slate:


Patiently applying the solder paste and even more patiently placing the components:




This is the point where I found my first problem… the HDMI header I had didn’t fit the shields PTH positions, no problem I thought, I’ll just trim the rear legs and bend the front ones into place, sadly on closer inspection even the data wires were misaligned with my landing pad layout apparently I had somehow ordered a different header to the one whose datasheet I had been looking at, and what’s more, they were twice the price of the one I wanted they don’t cost a whole lot but I ordered several for stock which was a little frustrating. So off I went to reorder the correct parts and pushed forward with what I had.


Next we journey over to the kitchen:


What’s that hanging out the side? you say… the controller that keeps the temperature following my preprogramed solder reflow curve:


I started my oven build about a year ago with the intent of tidying everything up, reassembling it and adding a control interface with an LCD for setting curves and checking states but shortly after starting it I needed to use it to do some prototyping for work and it has since fallen into the bracket of “it works and is in use” so it never quite gets to the top of my to do list even if it is a bit messy

Getting ready to cook!:


In the “soak” zone, she’s getting warm in there (~160-180c):


Starting to reflow (200-230c):


DING! and out it comes (don’t touch unless you like blisters ):


I am leaving the PTH stuff until I get all the SMT stuff done (HDMI header), the SPDIF daughterboard was hand soldered and lined up on the main board which is where I found problem number two, each of the I/O headers had been laid out to have a 1mm overhang off the edge of the main PCB but foolishly I had put a 1mm overhang for the SPDIF module on the daughterboard and a 1mm overhang for the daughterboard on the main board leaving it with a 2mm total overhang not a biggie but a bit of a face palm moment.


I seem to have misplaced my flux cleaner so please forgive the gunk on the board

The other potential problem I ran into (or potentially avoided running into) was the fact I didn’t have pull down resistors on the MOSFETS driving the LEDs, while generally this shouldn’t be an issue because they are soldered to the PCB and only powered on when the MCU is also powered on thus holding the gate at a know state, I read about someone having issues in the long term when not using pull down resistors on a brushless camera gimbal, he theorised that there could potentially be a small lag between power on and the point where the MCUs outputs were no longer floating and a floating gate on a powered MOSFET is generally a bad thing so I grabbed some small 0402 size resistors (1x0.5mm something I had the pleasure of being able to avoid on this project up to now which was nice for a change) and nestled them between the gate and source pins on my MOSFETs “just in case”. This is something I would always do on a prototyping breadboard due to the potential for wires to come loose etc. but I kind of 50/50 it on PCBs depending on if it’s for personal or commercial use, after reading that article I will always allow for them in future though as they cost nothing more than a bit of board real-estate.

I never made it down to the laser cutter last week unfortunately, a couple of prototypes at work inexplicably died which ate up even more of my non-existent spare time at the moment, however, as mentioned earlier I have updated the software to automatically find which port the controller is plugged into rather than having a fixed setting to make things all the more convenient whilst being tidier than having a drop box selector. Man C++ registry access is a nightmare, its times like these that make me want to switch to using C# but with most of what I do being embedded I’m stubborn and like the uniformity between my hardware and software code Now that I’ve done it once it should be easy in the future but there are a lot of little gotchas in the learning process.
I have also modified the drive activity setting on the controller to allow for integral type behaviour on the LEDs which can be set with the speed slider to whatever your preference of behaviour is, from hard cuts to slowly building blends over long access times.
The temperature sensor option has been implemented too allowing it to learn the computers temperature range and automatically adjust over time to account for changes in average temperature over different seasons etc. however I will probably need to add a second ambient temperature probe as well so it can keep up with rapid temperature changes like day/night cycles, putting a heater on in winter or even just mixed rainy and sunny days. Fortunately I had the foresight to break out a few spare I/O pins on my MCU The I2C port is available too because I thought I might like to add a temperature readout down the track but it also allows a huge amount of potential expansion if I manage to fill the I/O I currently have available.

This video shows a couple of different speed settings for the drive activity mode and the temperature controlled mode using my fingers to warm up the probe. I picked up a cheap RGB LED strip to try out, it has a higher LED per meter count then the one in the other video and the colours are slightly different but its great value:

I was really hoping I would get to test the I/O board last weekend but alas that will have to wait another week. I’m going to try to get down to the laser cutter on Friday but my schedules pretty tight at the moment so it might get pushed back to next week, well see how things go as the week progresses.
 

TRANQUIL STREAM

Gidday LTT forums I’m going to be putting together a submerged streaming PC for my lounge and here shall be my build log. I’m hoping things will progress at a reasonable pace but it will be very dependent on how work goes as at the moment I can only spare a few hours here and there (a good chunk of which goes to gaming or drinks with friends)… anyway on with the show...

Background: I was originally planning a small water cooled custom gaming PC but as I got further and further into the planning stage work got busier and busier so that had to be shelved, the other project I had rattling around in my head was a file server upgrade but alas for that I needed the case my gaming PC currently resides in About this time Steam in-home streaming added support for Nvidia hardware encoding which got me thinking “why don’t I make a low power streaming PC for the lounge?”, pairing that thought with my long time curiosity about mineral oil submerged systems this project was born!

Aim: To create a low power PC that can handle movie and Steam in-home streaming while not being too time consuming.

Hardware: I started by looking around for suitable hardware, after reading that basically any Intel CPU with Quick Sync could handle Steam in-home streaming and with all the noise about the new Pentiums at the time I was thinking this would be a good choice but came to the forums fist looking for input/experiences. After a suggestion from Electronics Wizardy to look at the Baytrail platform I came across the Gigabyte GA-J1900N-D3V, a quad core Celeron with a 10W TDP adding to that 8GB of DDR3, a 80W picoPSU, a Samsung 840 120GB SSD and a Hauppauge DVB-T tuner I had lying around I had my base hardware to work off.

Peripherals: There were two main types of controls I would need for this build, the first being a wireless keyboard and mouse for ease of use on the desktop and the second being a couple of gamepads, this being a lounge PC the games will be casual multiplayer games for the most part (Nidhogg, Mortal combat, console emulators, etc.).
After looking around a bit I found a nice clean looking keyboard with a built in trackpad so I wouldn’t have to fumble around with a mouse on the couch, it’s the Rapoo E9180P. The controllers will be Xbox ones because I find my current 360 one very comfortable, I was hoping to get Xbox One controllers but at this point there is no wireless option for the PC so unless they come out before I finish I’ll be settling with a pair of Xbox 360 controllers.










Design and housing: After the core components were decided upon I could get into finding a suitable aquarium to build around and nut out a design. I ended up settling on a Dymax IQ5 aquarium (including pump) because it was a nice size for a mITX build, admittedly it was a little taller and deeper then I would have liked but those are things I could work around and it happened to be on special at the time.


A while later I had come up with this:




This is still a bit of a WIP and I’m crap at doing natural forms (rock and drift wood)… well that and I don’t have the time to spend gussying everything up, even the motherboard was pulled from my gaming PC design (ASRock Z77) but it’s enough to get me going. The dimensions are 280D x 230W x 315H.
In the meantime I ran around trying to find the elusive white mineral oil without having to get it shipped from overseas (the cost of shipping on several Kg of oil was never going to be pleasant), buying 60 x 200ml bottles of baby oil or something impractical like that. I also looked at air pumps, bubblers, gravel and liveries. As luck would have it I managed to find some mineral oil locally (a company called Canadian Oil of all things ), after going in to collect a 20L bottle and having a bit of a chat to the lady at the warehouse about what I intended to do with it I managed to get a decent cash discount which helped keep the budget in check




Some of the considerations while designing the case were:
Wicking/siphoning – Due to the aquarium being slightly taller than I would have liked I wanted to have the I/O under the water line to keep the board more central, this is something you generally try to avoid due to the cables wicking and ultimately siphoning the oil out of the case so to get around this I will be building a custom I/O PCB at the back of the box with some short run cables creating a break point between the inside and outside of the box. This panel will also have some convenience items like power/reset/clear CMOS switches and light/pump control. Mineral oil resistance – Some materials don’t respond well to mineral oil so I am trying to soak samples of everything I intend to put in it from tubing to bubblers for at least a week to see how they hold up. So far everything has gone well with the exception of plasti dip… because the memory and picoPSU I have are on green PCBs I had intended to plasti dip them black but after putting a small length of plasti dipped tube into my soaking jug and waiting a couple of days the plasti dip coating had turned to jelly so the next step will be trying regular spray paint. Heat – Because of the low power system heat isn’t a concern so no additional radiator etc. would be required however I am considering adding a fan to the CPU heat sink purely for aesthetics. Stickers – All stickers on the parts will have to be removed as the oil will dissolve the glue and leave me with barcode fish swimming around in my tank :wacko: Check valve – A check valve on the air line is necessary to prevent any siphoning when the air pump is turned off which would likely be a common occurrence to both mute the sound and visual distraction when watching movies etc. Bubblers – I wasn’t sure how much air pressure I would need and if I wanted to go with a bubble wall or air stone so I picked up both a wall and stone and grabbed the weakest air pump for a starter (Blue Planet Bubbilo SP100) as in theory it would also be the quietest with the thought I could keep one upping it until I had a satisfactory flow. As luck would have it the pump was more than enough, I now just have to decide on whether I prefer a column of bubbles off to one side or a wall across the front of the motherboard… at the moment I’m leaning towards the wall but am concerned it might be a bit much?  

What do you all think? A column of bubbles coming up from behind the driftwood or a wall across the front of the motherboard (back of the chamber)?

UPDATES:
UPDATE #1: I/O and control board
UPDATE #2: Ready, steady, bake!
UPDATE #3: Pew, pew lasers…

You are one awesome brother!