Jump to content

"Cleandustrial" - now wall-mounted

Guest

No. What I need is a quiality shielded cable/extender. I've only found one, what I've linked. And Probably will buy one once I know where's the "cheapest".

And thanks for the myus.com link. I'll check them for sure!

In the meantime I've got the missing USB 3.0 cable but I've messed something up (probably the superspeed wires) so it only runs 2.0 mode now on the second front I/O slot. Have to check it again tomorrow.

What I really need, is money or some sponsors to make some progress :( But it's usually the case with most builds.

 

The 3m one is pretty solid, we use them on aircraft for certain applications. I am using one in my slim performance build.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a new company called Li-Heat that's offering quality PCIe 3.0 extenders at reasonable prices, not sure if you can get one shipped to Hungary though: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-Express-PCI-E-16X-Riser-Card-3-0-X16-to-X16-250mm-high-speed-Flexible-Cable-/121169471481

 

Someone on OCN got one and they're legit: http://www.overclock.net/t/1526575/build-log-little-mac-4-2l-gaming-htpc/60_20#post_23409506

Thank you! I've checked it. They do not ship here. And probably not long enough (but could be because the right angle socket). But will search them around the web.

 

 

The 3m one is pretty solid, we use them on aircraft for certain applications. I am using one in my slim performance build.

Thanks for the reply! I'm quite sure they are the best around now. 3M stuff is usually good stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing so far! I love that aluminium parts also. My 3D printer uses them. Do you plan to have lighting? (LED strips) Also are you using any acrylic? Since you are good at 3D design have you thought of having 3D printed parts? Supports, connectors, covers etc.

2GTech Maker Hub
Youtube||Facebook||Twitter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing so far! I love that aluminium parts also. My 3D printer uses them. Do you plan to have lighting? (LED strips) Also are you using any acrylic? Since you are good at 3D design have you thought of having 3D printed parts? Supports, connectors, covers etc.

Thank you! This profiles are made to build machine frames. I love them as well.

I did not plan to put in lights so far. I don't think I could hide them well. Also I did not use my lights in my previous case. The first ones I'd install is the back I/O light because it's hard to plug in things under a desk.

And I did not think about using 3D printed parts, since I don't need anything special. The few brackets I use could be made from sheet aluminium, and most of them are not visible in the end. Also I don't plan to use any real covers. One of the goal with the build is to make everything nice enough that I don't need to cover them. But the PCI-e riser cable could be change this since it will be longer than needed. And yeah. I don't have a 3D printer to use, or the money to have anything printed. Or even a part that I need to be printed. Although I love designing custome stuff. I'd definitely would make more projects if I had the founds. (I'm more into cnc machined parts than 3D printed. I have some stuff made for building guitars which is one of my other hobbies)

One thing I've been thinking about is a motherboard water block to replace the factory heatsinks since there won't be any more fans than the ones on the rads. But I hope they will provide enough airflow. I'm quite sure I could plan one and make it machined out but there are more necessary parts I don't have money for right now.

I want the sidepanels to be glass instead of acrylic, but again it's far away right now. So the only acrylic would be the pipes. I know the industrial design could use copper instead but they won't look as good as the black&white double waterloop which was also one of the core design features. Maybe I'll do some test renders with copper pipes. Connectors are standard, with crimped pins. The only "real custome" parts are the fan hub and my USB 3.0 sockets in the front I/O.

Which leads me to my post from yesterday. I plugged in the 19 pin connector in the other socket on the mobo and now both front usb3 plugs are good. Checked the manual but did not see if one of the 4 ports (provided by the two 19 pin connectors) would be only 2.0. Needs further investigation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you! This profiles are made to build machine frames. I love them as well.

I did not plan to put in lights so far. I don't think I could hide them well. Also I did not use my lights in my previous case. The first ones I'd install is the back I/O light because it's hard to plug in things under a desk.

And I did not think about using 3D printed parts, since I don't need anything special. The few brackets I use could be made from sheet aluminium, and most of them are not visible in the end. Also I don't plan to use any real covers. One of the goal with the build is to make everything nice enough that I don't need to cover them. But the PCI-e riser cable could be change this since it will be longer than needed. And yeah. I don't have a 3D printer to use, or the money to have anything printed. Or even a part that I need to be printed. Although I love designing custome stuff. I'd definitely would make more projects if I had the founds. (I'm more into cnc machined parts than 3D printed. I have some stuff made for building guitars which is one of my other hobbies)

One thing I've been thinking about is a motherboard water block to replace the factory heatsinks since there won't be any more fans than the ones on the rads. But I hope they will provide enough airflow. I'm quite sure I could plan one and make it machined out but there are more necessary parts I don't have money for right now.

I want the sidepanels to be glass instead of acrylic, but again it's far away right now. So the only acrylic would be the pipes. I know the industrial design could use copper instead but they won't look as good as the black&white double waterloop which was also one of the core design features. Maybe I'll do some test renders with copper pipes. Connectors are standard, with crimped pins. The only "real custome" parts are the fan hub and my USB 3.0 sockets in the front I/O.

Which leads me to my post from yesterday. I plugged in the 19 pin connector in the other socket on the mobo and now both front usb3 plugs are good. Checked the manual but did not see if one of the 4 ports (provided by the two 19 pin connectors) would be only 2.0. Needs further investigation.

 

I agree on your thoughts about the lights, glass and pipes! I am 90% sure that the chipset will be cooled enough just as it is from the air going through the front radiator unless you completely obstruct it with the res and cables. Although, if you think it could help and make a cleaner tubing run then go for the chipset waterblock. Alphacool and Koolance have universal chipset waterblocks that you could look into.

 

Now about 3D printing there are cheap ways to get something 3D printed. Just google 3D hubs. I have a hub in Greece. And if you want to get ideas about 3D printers and PC cases you can see this shapeways blog.

 

Also off topic do you make classical guitars? I will make a Friederich replica cedar top this summer.

2GTech Maker Hub
Youtube||Facebook||Twitter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree on your thoughts about the lights, glass and pipes! I am 90% sure that the chipset will be cooled enough just as it is from the air going through the front radiator unless you completely obstruct it with the res and cables. Although, if you think it could help and make a cleaner tubing run then go for the chipset waterblock. Alphacool and Koolance have universal chipset waterblocks that you could look into.

 

Now about 3D printing there are cheap ways to get something 3D printed. Just google 3D hubs. I have a hub in Greece. And if you want to get ideas about 3D printers and PC cases you can see this shapeways blog.

 

Also off topic do you make classical guitars? I will make a Friederich replica cedar top this summer.

Thanks. I'll check the site if I plan to 3D print something.

About the guitars: no only solidbody electrics. I made a telly with P90s , and a JazzBass copy for my friend. And some half projects with factory squier necks. (That's how I've started)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think the VRMs would get too hot, it looks like air will circulate enough to cool them down. Especially the top heatsink looks like it will get enough cooling.

Benchinh they can push 60-70C but they're are rated to 130-135C.

Our Grace. The Feathered One. He shows us the way. His bob is majestic and shows us the path. Follow unto his guidance and His example. He knows the one true path. Our Saviour. Our Grace. Our Father Birb has taught us with His humble heart and gentle wing the way of the bob. Let us show Him our reverence and follow in His example. The True Path of the Feathered One. ~ Dimboble-dubabob III

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

If anyones's interested, the project is not dead.
I didn't have much income in the past few months so... I only managed to get the money for the PSU. I've ordered a Seasonic Platinum 1000W (should arrive early next week). I'm hoping the fan will stay off even while gaming. My APC backup showed around 260-270W output while playing with my recent PSU. I don't think I'll start making the custom cables until I've got the GPU in the right place and having the new SSDs.

 

Also I've got the perforated sheet aluminium to cover the in/outtakes. It will take a few weeks to arrive though, it's at my brother's place at the moment.
After I got the said material and a few days to work on I'll put up some pictures. Still not sure how I'll do the "filter". I've got 5mm thick black foam/sponge/dust filter material, but I may have to buy 3mm, thinner one which could also add a few weeks of waiting time.

The next step would be to buy the frickin expensive PCI-e cable. I hope I'll get there in the spring or early summer.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

-Snip-

Had the same with my build :/ Some things are expensive. You got a nice design and some nice idea's in your head, no worries mate! 

The X Desk«BuildLog»

.:Custom Watercooled Desk - Gaming Cave:.

Feel free to take a look, I would highly appreciate it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

That case is just plain sexy. Would have gone for a black and chrome theme to maintain the industrial look. White to me seems more of a "scientific equipment" theme

Ketchup is better than mustard.

GUI is better than Command Line Interface.

Dubs are better than subs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Had the same with my build :/ Some things are expensive. You got a nice design and some nice idea's in your head, no worries mate! 

 

I feel you. Unfortunately most the the things are expensive. At least what I need to finish the project. (PCI-e cable, SSDs, another pump, pumptop, res., rigid tubing, and a bunch of fittings) I could have bought a cheaper, midrange used car with this amount of money :) And thank you!

 

 

That case is just plain sexy. Would have gone for a black and chrome theme to maintain the industrial look. White to me seems more of a "scientific equipment" theme

 

Thanks! Most of the machines and stuff I saw in workshops, factories and similar places are usually bare alimunium or stainless steel.

So I probably keep the brushed/clean aluminium for the frame and sheets. I'm not sure what you see white. The only white parts are the LEDs and the coolant in one of the loops.

The renders could be misleading since I did not fiddle with proper materials/textures.

I maybe change my mind by the time I finish it. Anodizing the AL parts to a gunmetal grey or something could be cool.

I've also made a quick test in 3ds max with copper tubing but it did not look cool in this build for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I got some stuff, and built some stuff:

Half of the back side, which I did not show before, but done long ago:
IMAG0079_zps8dc20dae.jpg
 
The new PSU in the jungle:

IMAG0080_zps2729d7c8.jpg

And the almost done air filters (I'm waiting for the foam inside, since the one I got is a bit too thick)

IMAG0083_zps5733e62a.jpg
 
IMAG0072_zps1b23fec5.jpg
 
 
IMAG0071_zps162e4ca1.jpg
 
IMAG0075_zps8658e243.jpg

I know most of the pics are blurry and bad, sorry. I've got no time, talent and equipment to take good shots. But I'll have some good ones made if the project will ever be done.

2 more pictures if you'd like:

IMAG0082_zps27bb8b9c.jpg

 

IMAG0066_zps2da424a0.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, looks great.

Rig CPU Intel i5 3570K at 4.2 GHz - MB MSI Z77A-GD55 - RAM Kingston 8GB 1600 mhz - GPU XFX 7870 Double D - Keyboard Logitech G710+

Case Corsair 600T - Storage Intel 330 120GB, WD Blue 1TB - CPU Cooler Noctua NH-D14 - Displays Dell U2312HM, Asus VS228, Acer AL1715

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, looks great.

 

Thank you

 

an industrial theme build and a minimalistic design, you've got my attention

 

and Thank you!

Also the PCI-e cable is on it's way. Should arrive today or tomorrow. I really hope it'll work.

Now I just need some time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neat!

 

I would highly recommend dipping all of the raw aluminum pieces in clear chem conversion coating to inhibit corroding.

Thank you. Sorry, it looks like I've run over this comment before.

The profiles are painted in silver if I'm correct, but the sheets are bare/raw. I'm still not sure about the finish. I could put a clear coat on them for sure, but I also don't mind having some used/aged look. I don't think I'll have any real bad corrosion or rotting like when the Al turns into that white dusty cr@p.

I'll figure it out when everything's done.

And little update as well: I got the 3M PCI-e cable. It looks like awesome quality, for sure (especially comparing to the cheap chinise cables). Not sure when I could put it in use, but want to do ASAP.

Next on the shopping list is the 500GB SSD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I feel you. Unfortunately most the the things are expensive. At least what I need to finish the project. (PCI-e cable, SSDs, another pump, pumptop, res., rigid tubing, and a bunch of fittings) I could have bought a cheaper, midrange used car with this amount of money :) And thank you!

 

 

 

Thanks! Most of the machines and stuff I saw in workshops, factories and similar places are usually bare alimunium or stainless steel.

So I probably keep the brushed/clean aluminium for the frame and sheets. I'm not sure what you see white. The only white parts are the LEDs and the coolant in one of the loops.

The renders could be misleading since I did not fiddle with proper materials/textures.

I maybe change my mind by the time I finish it. Anodizing the AL parts to a gunmetal grey or something could be cool.

I've also made a quick test in 3ds max with copper tubing but it did not look cool in this build for me.

Ahh, I was looking at the 3d rendering which appears more white to me. I still think that the white in the coolant loop is a bit odd. I tried asking @LukaP if there was some kind of way to dye water to make it appear as liquid metal, but sadly mercury and gallium are the only options there, and while mercury would work, it would be so ridiculously difficult to do that it isn't even worth considering, mainly because of weight and electrical conductivity.

Ketchup is better than mustard.

GUI is better than Command Line Interface.

Dubs are better than subs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I got the cable and videocard installed. I'm not gonna write a bunch about it, it's pretty straight forward.
Heres a few pictures (potato quality as always):

IMAG0120_zpsfisxtpwr.jpg

 

 

A few foam pads under the PSU plate, temporary. The lip on the left helps keeping it straight, only 2 screws can be used on the back so secure the PSU.

The excess cable fits nicely under there.

IMAG0124_zpsqlwrg2gp.jpg

 

IMAG0125_zpsznfsfaoh.jpg

 

Two small L "brackets" help holding the card and cable end. They are srewed onto the bottom plate (not yet on the picture):

IMAG0144_zpszxenrz8t.jpg

 

The card is secured with 3 screws as well. (One is down in the corner, inside, no good picture of that):

IMAG0140_zpsukjf2w7s.jpg

 

IMAG0152_zpslf6cahmq.jpg

 

IMAG0159_zpsbcta9azy.jpg

 

Tubing is temporary of course. The fittings I have are not optimal but I hope they will work until I make the hard tubing.

Also the green PCBs on the riser is not nice, I know. Probably will PlastiDip them black.
But the quality of the cable is awesome in any ways and much superior compared to the chinese ones.

 

And it works well. A quick Heaven benchmark gave me the same results as without the cable.
I've run the test 3 times before and after I've installed it. (I did not go for overclocking, just standard boost.)

test_eng_zpss61cnvty.jpg

 

Now I can finish the backside behind the mobo and GPU, and then onto some cabling... while I wait and get some money for the SSDs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn son! That is a very unique looking build. I really like it. 

 

Btw, the front mesh seems a little restrictive.

60FPS Microwave

Intel Core i5-4670K | Galax GTX 970 EXOC | ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac | Team Elite 8GB 1600MHz | Gelid Black Edition | Samsung slowdown + WD Blue 1TB x2 | Cooler Master V550 | Corsair K65 + Logitech G100s | MasterCase Pro 3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I got the cable and videocard installed. I'm not gonna write a bunch about it, it's pretty straight forward.

Heres a few pictures (potato quality as always):

 

 

A few foam pads under the PSU plate, temporary. The lip on the left helps keeping it straight, only 2 screws can be used on the back so secure the PSU.

The excess cable fits nicely under there.

 

Two small L "brackets" help holding the card and cable end. They are srewed onto the bottom plate (not yet on the picture):

 

The card is secured with 3 screws as well. (One is down in the corner, inside, no good picture of that):

 

Tubing is temporary of course. The fittings I have are not optimal but I hope they will work until I make the hard tubing.

Also the green PCBs on the riser is not nice, I know. Probably will PlastiDip them black.

But the quality of the cable is awesome in any ways and much superior compared to the chinese ones.

 

And it works well. A quick Heaven benchmark gave me the same results as without the cable.

I've run the test 3 times before and after I've installed it. (I did not go for overclocking, just standard boost.)

 

Now I can finish the backside behind the mobo and GPU, and then onto some cabling... while I wait and get some money for the SSDs.

 

Nice system...what are you doing for cable management?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn son! That is a very unique looking build. I really like it. 

 

Btw, the front mesh seems a little restrictive.

 

 

Thank you!

I'll see how restrictive the mesh is in the future. So far it seems OK.

 

 

Nice system...what are you doing for cable management?

 

Thanks!

​Custom length cables, paracord sleeving, and some stuff to hold them in place. I'll try to rout them "nicely" and "clean".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you!

I'll see how restrictive the mesh is in the future. So far it seems OK.

 

 

 

Thanks!

​Custom length cables, paracord sleeving, and some stuff to hold them in place. I'll try to rout them "nicely" and "clean".

 

I would suggest using tie wrap mounts or clamps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would suggest using tie wrap mounts or clamps

 

I'll use something like clamps. Little hex. brass standoffs with a tiny plate and screws. I've already made 2 for testing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I finally got the money to buy the 500GB SSD. So I've installed the SSD brackets and could get out the noisy HDD.
No my PC is completely silent with 6 fans and 1 waterpump. I hope the 2nd waterpump won't add much noise.

My APC Back-UPS is more noisy than the machine on idle.
Also I've finished the backside of the case behind the motherboard and the graphics card but I forgot to take pictures of it. It's nothing fancy though.

Here's the SSD installation (I only had to drill and tap ten M3 holes):

 

IMAG0293_zpsokhdpkof.jpg

IMAG0295_zps6t4nfaxc.jpg

 

IMAG0298_zps4zb1qj0r.jpg

 

IMAG0303_zpstxzwydns.jpg

 

Now only the SATA cables are the original, the PCI-e and motherboard power cables are "done" but not fixed and probably have to redo half of the 24pin. I still have to figure out how and where will I fix them exactly. It's still a jungle in there and right now I don't have the desire to work on it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

nothing much, but I've got time to do the SATA power cables:

IMAG0312_zpsian89c0y.jpg

 

and here's one from the butt end of the case:

IMAG0315_zpsygte5swm.jpg

 

I could do 99% of the cable management since I only miss one water pump that needs cables in the future but I don't have time to work on it unfortunately.
(sorry for the bad pictures, as always...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×