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Upgrading 6700k to 8086k

I am upgrading from a 6700k to an 8086k i always buy decent priced hardware and water cool my parts only to get the worst silicon lottery ever.

The upgrade is mostly because my 6700k even with a monoblock, delided requires 1.4V to get 4.7GHz.

 

I am really hoping i get something decently binned and paying a premium for it.

The question i have that maybe someone knows the 8700k processor has 4 pins on the PCB, its mentioned online that they are testing pins.

A lot of places say its not needed to use nail polish on these, i did my 6700k very carefully without coating the SMD's on the processor, i might have used a little less liquid metal to prevent spill over.

 

I've been looking online what nail polish to use and it appears that i need to avoid some ingredients but it doesn't actually say what is good.

I see a lot of places state its not necessary to cover them on an 8700k.

 

I am not scared of delidding i am more scared on using too much and shorting something out.

 

Which leads to my section decision this time around since i am buying a EKWB Velocity which is nicel plated i was considering throwing Liquid Metal between the CPU waterblock and IHS.

Given nothing is copper or aluminium i can't see there being much of a reaction problem, i tear down my water loop every 12 months so Liquid Metal should be fine for a year, i see no posts about doing this.

 

If Liquid Metal helps transfer heat why are we putting thermal paste between the CPU cooler and IHS when we just delidded to get better thermal performance.

My 6700k there was no point i hit a wall on that chip and it wasn't thermal it simply would crash at anything over 4.8Ghz.

 

Any suggestions i would appreciate has anyone ever thrown LM between their CPU IHS and Water Block ?

 

And why didn't i go for a 9k series, 9700k with no HT is just asking for trouble and 9900k is going to be overpriced Australia we get ripped off.

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 7700X | GPU | ASUS TUF RTX3080 | PSU | Corsair RM850i | RAM 2x16GB X5 6000Mhz CL32 MOTHERBOARD | Asus TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS WIFI | 
STORAGE 
| 2x Samsung Evo 970 256GB NVME  | COOLING 
| Hard Line Custom Loop O11XL Dynamic + EK Distro + EK Velocity  | MONITOR | Samsung G9 Neo

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14 minutes ago, Maticks said:

The upgrade is mostly because my 6700k even with a monoblock, delided requires 1.4V to get 4.7GHz.

Ouch. Yeah, the 6700k wasn't the best overclocker. I've seen a small handful of people with good results, but most seem to struggle beyond 4.5GHz across all cores and start to hit a voltage wall.

 

I'd go with the 8700k instead of the 8086k. The 8086k is $60 AUD more than the 8700k in Australia, and it's really just a binned 8700k. You'd be better off putting that $60 towards the CPU cooling set up you have planned.

Also, wait to see what the prices for the 9700k and 9900k are like, and how they perform in benchmarks in independent reviews. We'll get an idea of Australian pricing and plenty of benchmarks for the processors within the next few weeks, so there's really no reason not to wait, even if you still end up deciding to go with the 8700k/8086k anyway.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Doesn't go with the better i7 9700K because 'rip off prices'

 

Buys the i7 8086K gimmick, overpriced identical to the 8700K aside the name...

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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51 minutes ago, Maticks said:

I am upgrading from a 6700k to an 8086k i always buy decent priced hardware and water cool my parts only to get the worst silicon lottery ever.

The upgrade is mostly because my 6700k even with a monoblock, delided requires 1.4V to get 4.7GHz.

 

I am really hoping i get something decently binned and paying a premium for it.

The question i have that maybe someone knows the 8700k processor has 4 pins on the PCB, its mentioned online that they are testing pins.

A lot of places say its not needed to use nail polish on these, i did my 6700k very carefully without coating the SMD's on the processor, i might have used a little less liquid metal to prevent spill over.

 

I've been looking online what nail polish to use and it appears that i need to avoid some ingredients but it doesn't actually say what is good.

I see a lot of places state its not necessary to cover them on an 8700k.

 

I am not scared of delidding i am more scared on using too much and shorting something out.

 

Which leads to my section decision this time around since i am buying a EKWB Velocity which is nicel plated i was considering throwing Liquid Metal between the CPU waterblock and IHS.

Given nothing is copper or aluminium i can't see there being much of a reaction problem, i tear down my water loop every 12 months so Liquid Metal should be fine for a year, i see no posts about doing this.

 

If Liquid Metal helps transfer heat why are we putting thermal paste between the CPU cooler and IHS when we just delidded to get better thermal performance.

My 6700k there was no point i hit a wall on that chip and it wasn't thermal it simply would crash at anything over 4.8Ghz.

 

Any suggestions i would appreciate has anyone ever thrown LM between their CPU IHS and Water Block ?

 

And why didn't i go for a 9k series, 9700k with no HT is just asking for trouble and 9900k is going to be overpriced Australia we get ripped off.

4.7 on the 6700k isn't bad. You certainly didn't get a bad silicon lottery because that is about average. 

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to minimise the LM thikness and avoid any spillage, put some LM on the Q-tip and "paint" IHS and the die. there is no need for nail polish. also socket lid holds it firmly in place, so there is no need for any glue.

here is a video

I did it this way on my 8700K and got -20C on a realy bad cooler at stock speed. Got a monblock and all the watercooling gear but fittings take a bit too long to arive from china. hope i'll get 4.8-5gHz on my chip then I get it all under water.

As for applying LM between IHS and the coldplate it is a bit pointless cause it gets you about 1 or 2 C cooler.

 

CPU: i7 8700K OC 5.0 gHz, Motherboard: Asus Maximus VIII Hero (Z170), RAM: 32gb Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200 mHz, GPU: Asus Strix OC gtx 1080ti, Storage: Samsung 950pro 500gb, samsung 860evo 500gb, 2x2Tb + 6Tb HDD,Case: Lian Li PC O11 dynamic, Cooling: Very custom loop.

CPU: i7 8700K, Motherboard Asus z390i, RAM:32gb g.skill RGB 3200, GPU: EVGA Gtx 1080ti SC Black, Storage: samsung 960evo 500gb, samsung 860evo 1tb (M.2) Case: lian li q37. Cooling: on the way to get watercooled (EKWB, HWlabs, Noctua, Barrow)

CPU: i7 9400F, Motherboard: Z170i pro gaming, RAM: 16gb Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200 mHz, GPU: Sapphire Vega56 pulse with Bykski waterblock, Storage: wd blue 500gb (windows) Samsung 860evo 500Gb (MacOS), PSU Corsair sf600 Case: Motif Monument aluminium replica, Cooling: Custom water cooling loop

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3 hours ago, Maticks said:

-

20171109_170554.jpg.416b36dcf173db740a5451b78cef9077.jpg

 

These are my pictures of the delidding of an 8700K that went underwater in an Ncase M1 build. No nail polish was used.

 

The point about changing the liquid metal but still using thermal paste can be described in terms of rate limiting steps. In a normal setup, the rate limiting step for the cooling of the processor should be the radiator-air interface, whether it be an aircooled cpu cooler or watercooling radiator - they are still aircooled. To make it not as ratelimiting, we increase the surface of this interface i.e. get a bigger cpu cooler/radiator, or increase the airfow across the radiator.

 

CPU Die (Si) --> Paste/LM --> IHS (Ni +Cu) --> Paste --> CPU Cooler (Ni + Cu)  -->  Air

CPU Die (Si) --> Paste/LM --> IHS (Ni +Cu) --> Paste --> Waterblock (Ni + Cu) --> Fluid (Water/EG+PG) --> Radiator (Ni + Cu)  --> Air

 

While the above is usually the definitive rate limiting step, in the Intel- Sky/Kaby/Coffee Lake series, there was an additional rate limiting transfer, which is the die-IHS transfer. This is because a relatively high heat generating component on a small surface area was making contact with the IHS via the so-so-at-best thermal paste (or Z-height argument, but i personally disagree with it). Delimiting this bottleneck then returns the system to a more conventional state, and is why some people don't observe any temperature differences going from a mid-tier air cooler to a large liquid cooler if they didn't delid the CPU.

 

To simplify it, the IHS-Waterblock contact is simply not rate limiting and so you don't benefit from putting liquid metal there and just causes additional risks of shorts. This also can be expanded that the Waterblock - fluid is not a rate limiting step either and is why having something like a liquid metal loop makes no sense.

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ok that makes sense, since the thermal mass is increased from the Die to an IHS.

There is no advantage using LM between the IHS and Waterblock as the mass is being cooled enough and is big enough to transfer the heat.

I just assumed if the heat transfer was more and the waterblock could disipate the heat faster than the IHS would be much cooler and thus the Die.

But 1-2 degree doesn’t sound like its making that much difference.

i guess ill stick to thermal paste, i assumed it was something like that if it was a massive difference we’d see that step in all these videos.

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 7700X | GPU | ASUS TUF RTX3080 | PSU | Corsair RM850i | RAM 2x16GB X5 6000Mhz CL32 MOTHERBOARD | Asus TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS WIFI | 
STORAGE 
| 2x Samsung Evo 970 256GB NVME  | COOLING 
| Hard Line Custom Loop O11XL Dynamic + EK Distro + EK Velocity  | MONITOR | Samsung G9 Neo

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So i bit the bullet and bought an 8086k, i still think the previous laws of HT adds 30% more performance still applies and the 9700k probably won't be that great.

I certainly wasn't going to buy an i9 for 2 extra cores with HT.

At least i can't see games and the VM's i use on average ever needing that many cores.

 

Well i tried it out in my new motherboard tested my memory slots and a mild overclock of 5.1Ghz at 1.32Volts completely stable.

Moved onto delidding the processor, booted back up clocked up to 5.3Ghz at 1.4Volts completely stable and average core temps are 85c.

 

Im running an AIO H60, not my closed loop system with the Velocity Water block so i don't expect that great a temperatures.

haven't tried for 5.4Ghz yet, but will wait till i have some decent cooling on it first. 85c is a bit warm for my liking.

Admittedly thats at full cinebench. 1698 is a good score though. better than my 998 of my 6700k.

 

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 7700X | GPU | ASUS TUF RTX3080 | PSU | Corsair RM850i | RAM 2x16GB X5 6000Mhz CL32 MOTHERBOARD | Asus TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS WIFI | 
STORAGE 
| 2x Samsung Evo 970 256GB NVME  | COOLING 
| Hard Line Custom Loop O11XL Dynamic + EK Distro + EK Velocity  | MONITOR | Samsung G9 Neo

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