rebuilding my surround speakers

[circeseye]

since upgrading receiver (and fighting windows decoding issues) i have determined im am not satisfied with how my surround speakers sound and placement. so am going to rebuild the boxes to be more pointed at center. now each front has a 6 1/2 in woofer (proficient audio 670 watt) and 1in tweet...the rear has the same woofer but the tweet sucks...pretty much what tweet ive determined. so new tweets going in.
now the boxes i had built are closed enclosures....my new enclosures im wondering should i add a air port? or keep them a closed enclosure? the woofers are pretty damn good kind of a cross between a woofer and a sub considering magnet size and the amount of flex they can do compared to what ive seen. im trying to have them produce the harder high bass then what the more soft deep vibrating bass the sub does
oh the room is the size of a 2 car garage and speakers are placed in the top corners

[Blasteque]

Ported gives more volume for a given watt of amp, but is more sensitive to enclosure design than sealed and has less damping.  In a very generals sense, you should only use ported if you have a quality amp with good control and the drivers were built with that in mind. Generally.

 

If you have a reference design that uses those drivers that you can follow, then you should be safe.  If you can't find those drivers in use in a ported enclosure, then there may be a reason for that.  Sealed cabinets are a common way for manufacturers to make use of less expensive drivers.  They might sound great to you because they're sealed.

 

Obviously, you can just try it.  Build a box with a proper port, install the drivers, and give it a shot.  I would not recommend cutting the retail cabinets; you might not like the results.

[circeseye]

1 hour ago, Blasteque said:

Ported gives more volume for a given watt of amp, but is more sensitive to enclosure design than sealed and has less damping.  In a very generals sense, you should only use ported if you have a quality amp with good control and the drivers were built with that in mind. Generally.

 

If you have a reference design that uses those drivers that you can follow, then you should be safe.  If you can't find those drivers in use in a ported enclosure, then there may be a reason for that.  Sealed cabinets are a common way for manufacturers to make use of less expensive drivers.  They might sound great to you because they're sealed.

 

Obviously, you can just try it.  Build a box with a proper port, install the drivers, and give it a shot.  I would not recommend cutting the retail cabinets; you might not like the results.

opps sorry when i said rebuild i meant i built my speaker cabinets and am going to build new ones with more angel toward the center. (and a more aesthetic look) my receiver does 120 watt per channel so the woofers can handle it easily...just trying to figure out which would give me the bass hit im looking for outside of my sub

[Blasteque]

1 minute ago, circeseye said:

opps sorry when i said rebuild i meant i built my speaker cabinets and am going to build new ones with more angel toward the center. (and a more aesthetic look) my receiver does 120 watt per channel so the woofers can handle it easily...just trying to figure out which would give me the bass hit im looking for outside of my sub

A port properly tuned to a desired frequency will give more of that frequency, including bass.  If you're building ported cabinets, use a design similar to what the driver manufacturer recommends; there's a lot of science in speaker cabinet design.  Personally, I love building speakers, so I'd say go for it, but don't assume it will solve all your problems...  Although it might!

 

Remember however, the whole point of a sub is to reduce the load on your main amp (in modern times this has expanding to include lower frequency reproduction as well).  The power necessary to reproduce a wave form is proportional to wave length; it takes 10x more power to create a 20Hz wave than a 200Hz wave.  Trying to push a low frequency range onto drivers that are not ideal for that frequency range will reduce acoustic fidelity and shorten the life of your amp.  A better solution might be found with different cross-over settings or a different sub.  A room that size will need a large sub.

[circeseye]

14 minutes ago, Blasteque said:

A port properly tuned to a desired frequency will give more of that frequency, including bass.  If you're building ported cabinets, use a design similar to what the driver manufacturer recommends; there's a lot of science in speaker cabinet design.  Personally, I love building speakers, so I'd say go for it, but don't assume it will solve all your problems...  Although it might!

 

Remember however, the whole point of a sub is to reduce the load on your main amp (in modern times this has expanding to include lower frequency reproduction as well).  The power necessary to reproduce a wave form is proportional to wave length; it takes 10x more power to create a 20Hz wave than a 200Hz wave.  Trying to push a low frequency range onto drivers that are not ideal for that frequency range will reduce acoustic fidelity and shorten the life of your amp.  A better solution might be found with different cross-over settings or a different sub.  A room that size will need a large sub.

oh i have a sub (250 watt 12") i want the surrounds to produce the 100 to 120 range bass (the hard hit)...my sub is doing the 90 to lower.....if that makes sense (i may have the numbers wrong)

[circeseye]

oh and this is all i have to go on (stock material) the company that makes the speaker has nothing
Woofer Size --- Enclosure Volume
4" ======== .25 - .39 cubic feet
6" ======== .35 - .54 cubic feet....... because of the amount of flex i built my first cabs at the .54 cf
8" ======== .54 - .96 cubic feet
10" ======= .96 - 1.8 cubic feet
12" ======= 1.8 - 3.5 cubic feet
15" ======= 3.5 - 8 cubic feet

[Blasteque]

16 hours ago, circeseye said:

oh i have a sub (250 watt 12") i want the surrounds to produce the 100 to 120 range bass (the hard hit)...my sub is doing the 90 to lower.....if that makes sense (i may have the numbers wrong)

That makes sense.  Generally crossover settings will have a small gap of 10 to 20 Hz between low-pass and high-pass.  So your high-pass might be 100 Hz and low-pass at 80 Hz; this will usually give a flatter response.  However, you can "boost" a frequency range by setting an overlap; for instance: if you wanted more 90 to 100 you can have your low-pass set at 100 and your high-pass set at 90.

 

"i want the surrounds to produce the 100 to 120 range bass (the hard hit)"

This is the part that I'm hesitant on.  The drivers you have may not be capable of producing punch in that range.  The only way to know is if you can find published response graphs or personal experience.  Again, a tuned port can help, but it might not ever get there.  Hope for best, but be ready for less.