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1080 Ti PCBs and prices

ManEatingFridge
By ManEatingFridge
in Graphics Cards
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I'm looking at used 1080 ti's and I think the best route would be to get a cheap pcb and slap on the Arctic Accelero IV since it should outperform the more expensive ones and turns out cheaper overall.

 

The cheapest cards tend to be gainward or inno3d ones. From what I've gathered they use reference PCBs. Is there anything I'm really sacrifing by going for those? Will I run into issues when overclocking (not hardcore)? 

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2 minutes ago, ManEatingFridge said:

I'm looking at used 1080 ti's and I think the best route would be to get a cheap pcb and slap on the Arctic Accelero IV since it should outperform the more expensive ones and turns out cheaper overall.

That cooler is an extra USD $90. Not really worth it IMO. Just get the cheapest used open air 1080ti and stick with whatever cooler is on there. As long as your case has decent air flow the temperatures will be fine.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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If you're only doing a light overclock, you should just let GPU boost do its thing and boost the card for you. You aren't missing out on much with reference, only matters for high end overclocking.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I need? ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explained, group reg is bad

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1 minute ago, Spotty said:

That cooler is an extra USD $90

you can get them for about $50 on newegg, and the triple fan upgrade is probably a nice bump alon the lines of an actual triple fan design along that price point.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I need? ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explained, group reg is bad

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Just now, ManEatingFridge said:

I can get one for 60$. What.

Ah I just went off the MSRP listed on the website which says USD $89.99 excluding tax.

 

image.png.2988949e4e18cb85e34e8b0f86098356.png

 

Still think it isn't worth it at $60 though, unless you're talking about a blower style FE card. If it's something that you're interested in, then why not buy the used card first and see how it performs before deciding whether or not to buy the cooler? If it's fine then you can leave it as is and you haven't spent any money you didn't need to. If it sucks and runs at 80+C then buy the other cooler.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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