Jump to content

This Desk will make you FIT!!

New here but you could of just used a dc buck boost and power the network switch off the motor. No battery needed but the moment you stop you pedaling lose power to the device.

 

If you wanted to power a pc I would use a dc atx power supply like this one with a extra voltage filtering methiod like the charge controller you used. https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html

Image result for dc buck boost

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

i know lot of comments going to say this can be done simpler,

and i will agree but case of efficiency, 

converting 24 fluctuating volts to 110 AC and then back to steady Dc 12 v  is very inefficient, 

the 24 volt could have just been regulated to 12 volts with a simple circuit, 

however still great video 

PC: Alienware 15 R3  Cpu: 7700hq  GPu : 1070 OC   Display: 1080p IPS Gsync panel 60hz  Storage: 970 evo 250 gb / 970 evo plus 500gb

Audio: Sennheiser HD 6xx  DAC: Schiit Modi 3E Amp: Schiit Magni Heresy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the best DIY video. You need to start selling these. And order LTT cycling shorts. Your butt will be in flames after a work day on this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah no, try moving one of those big metal tanker desks from one room to another

 

do u even lift bro?

ASUS X470-PRO • R7 1700 4GHz • Corsair H110i GT P/P • 2x MSI RX 480 8G • Corsair DP 2x8 @3466 • EVGA 750 G2 • Corsair 730T • Crucial MX500 250GB • WD 4TB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I get a better description... like the product names... of the parts used in the video?  I mean the specific inverter and solar thingy... and battery.  I want them so I can easily search for them on amazon.

 

My brother wants to make a kid size hamster wheel and wire it up to generate power and this seems like a method with minimal soldering and wiring...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

IDEA:::

why not make it do only the moniter, or have an adapter for your USB peripherals, so that the data goes to the computer, but the power from the bike.

And maybe have it on so it gives you 5 minutes after charging so that it wont just die on you and you have some warning...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Goodness me, get Alex a welder lol. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Or you could just hook up an IR sensor to the wheel with an arduino to make a RPM sensor and then hook up the arduino to your computer with a software that cuts internet whenever you pedal below x rpm. would require a bit more programming skills but would get the job done in 15$ max (bike not included obviously)
 
don't ban me lol
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Linus,

 

Nice try with the exercise bike workstation, but a  bit of a fail re. electronics on this one. You should have gone with a full bridge rectifier to convert the ~24VAC provided by the moter/generator and smoothing capacitors to provide clean DC at about 36VDV, then using a buck converter to provide the 12VDC needed by the switch and eliminating the wall wart. Finally you would add a beefy 12VDC cap to the buck converter output to smooth the output of the buck converter while also giving you the much needed headroom needed to provide steady but short term power when you’re having trouble keeping up with any moter drag (which, would never happen using this design anyway). Adding a cheap multimeter to the first capacitor bank would provide the feedback needed for the user (by dipping below the ~36VDC) to put down the cannoli and get peddling. Would love to see you try this approach, I think you and your users would be impressed...also get a real gear setup...please. 

 

Thanks

 

Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What thermaltake mouse/kb was Linus referring too with fans?

 

On 8/27/2018 at 1:01 PM, VenomZ_ said:

or you guys could've just connected it to the monitor instead of the PC lol 

That's no fun to torture Linus xD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/25/2018 at 4:06 PM, Light-Yagami said:

I'm glad if you didn't. I'll just say this. I liked you people when you were small. Back in 2015. But now.. it's a comedy show. AdoredTV, Hardware Unboxed, Gamers Nexus and Digital Foundry to name a few have become the standard in tech media. 

They weren't small in 2015.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/25/2018 at 4:07 PM, Enderman said:

Just a relay so that you don't need any voltage regulation or other crap.

A motor, two wires, and a relay.

That's literally all that is needed.

How would this be wired up? Where would the wires from the motor go? + in the signal of the relay, but what about -? Would the - from the wall wart go directly into the switch?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, JoeyDM said:

How would this be wired up? Where would the wires from the motor go? + in the signal of the relay, but what about -? Would the - from the wall wart go directly into the switch?

Motor wires go into the coil input on the relay.

Image result for relay

 

Then one of the wires going to the thing you want to turn on/off gets split and connected to common and normally open.

The second wire of the thing doesn't need to be cut.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Enderman said:

Motor wires go into the coil input on the relay.

Image result for relay

 

Then one of the wires going to the thing you want to turn on/off gets split and connected to common and normally open.

The second wire of the thing doesn't need to be cut.

Ah okay, so in this case it would be as follows:

Coil input: motor wires

Common: 12v+ from the wall

NO: 12v+ of the switch

NC: Unused

Ethernet switch 12v-: just from the wall wart

 

Is that right? Sorry, still trying to grasp the basics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, JoeyDM said:

Ah okay, so in this case it would be as follows:

Coil input: motor wires

Common: 12v+ from the wall

NO: 12v+ of the switch

NC: Unused

Ethernet switch 12v-: just from the wall wart

 

Is that right? Sorry, still trying to grasp the basics.

Yeah.

Only one of the power wires going to the device needs to go through a relay, cutting one wire is enough to turn the device off.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Enderman said:

Yeah.

Only one of the power wires going to the device needs to go through a relay, cutting one wire is enough to turn the device off.

Perfect, got it. Thanks! I managed to trip myself up by looking at 5v relays for arduinos that only have 3 pins and was trying to think of where the fuck to put the other motor wire.

 

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-KY-019-Channel-Module-arduino/dp/B06XHJ2PBJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535490407&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay

 

But this would use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KNACRO-SLA-12VDC-SL-C-single-channel-optocoupler-isolation/dp/B01G4OA3CA/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535490196&sr=1-19&keywords=12v+relay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, JoeyDM said:

Perfect, got it. Thanks! I managed to trip myself up by looking at 5v relays for arduinos that only have 3 pins and was trying to think of where the fuck to put the other motor wire.

 

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-KY-019-Channel-Module-arduino/dp/B06XHJ2PBJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535490407&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay

 

But this would use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KNACRO-SLA-12VDC-SL-C-single-channel-optocoupler-isolation/dp/B01G4OA3CA/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535490196&sr=1-19&keywords=12v+relay

Yeah those 3 pin ones just share a ground wire, not ideal for this application, separate coil terminals is better.

Also, depending on how fast you pedal the motor can output very little or a lot of voltage, so maybe read this, it could be useful:

https://forum.digikey.com/t/understanding-relay-coil-voltage-specifications/946

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/25/2018 at 3:02 PM, nicklmg said:

Lol what?... I don't think we've literally ever banned someone for saying negative stuff about us.

Lowkey hoping this is ban material

On 8/25/2018 at 3:03 PM, Enderman said:

These geniuses used an AC inverter in order to turn DC into AC so that they can convert the AC back into DC.

 

Then they use a relay to turn the power on and off which completely negates the need of the generator powering the switch.

 

Wow. I admit I am quite impressed with how bad this was.

 

hSE6Vwl.gif

 

Make sure to quote or tag me (@JoostinOnline) or I won't see your response!

PSU Tier List  |  The Real Reason Delidding Improves Temperatures"2K" does not mean 2560×1440 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, JoostinOnline said:

Lowkey hoping this is ban material

 

Should I keep going?

 

 

The average continuous power output of a fit human is 100-200W for an hour.

Considering the inefficiency of that mechanical setup combined with the inefficiency of the brushed motor and the inefficiency of the inverter, they are getting at most 25% efficiency, so probably ~25-50W output or less.

When plugging the computer in it is not the 200W max power output of the inverter being the limiting factor, it is that a person cannot charge the battery fast enough biking at full speed.

The battery drains and the computer shuts off.

LTT failed to do a simple power calculation to determine if the project was even feasible or not before building it.

Powering a network switch or efficient monitor is the best you could do.

But there is no point to powering those things if you're going to use a relay to turn them on and off.

 

The only way you could power a computer with a human doing physical activity is if it was something very efficient like a raspberry pi.

In that case you can also just use a DC voltage regulator to directly connect the motor/generator to the power input on the computer.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Enderman said:

Powering a network switch or efficient monitor is the best you could do.

 

It was no one else's idea but Linus to power the whole computer. Tho they should of done a voltage check at the end of the setup to see the actual power it produces...

 

My biggest bone to pick at LMG is not about the DC to AC back to DC nor connecting the computer to the weird setup, my bone is wtf are they doing using a incandescent light bulb, or what looks like one... If it is one they can consume 60 watts of power... The NUK can consume up to the same so even producing max output plus a monitor they were very close to the 200 watts anyways. Plus there was no point in having the lamp plugged in if the computer is connected directly and could have prevented (would have it it was incandescent) power loss.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×